Dry Hopping causing clarity problems

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Chief462

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First time dry hopping making NB tongue splitter. Used pelleted hops and added directly to secondary. I thought that most of hops had settled in bottom but as I look at the bootles after two weeks of conditioning in the bottle there is a lot of suspended material in the bottles and it seems to be clinging to the side of bottle. Is there any way to get the hops to settle out or is the beer destined to have chewy bits in it.:confused:
 
I just have a hard time passing up any opportunity to state that I hate pellets.
 
My most recent dry hopped beer was way cloudy from hop residue on bottling day after 3 oz pellets for one week. Three weeks warm and four days cold produced a clear beer. A few more weeks and it's like any comparable beer from the bottle shop.
 
Thanks I'll try, next time should I dry hop in a bag

Try dry hoping with whole hops. I just dump them in, no bag, and don't have a problem with floating particles. Mine usually float just below the surface so I just siphon off from below them. Dry hoping in general can tend to make the beer slightly cloudy though, this is normal.
 
We use hop sacks/grain bags for everything. Makes clean up way easier. And no floaters.:drunk: Making it easier now means harder later,in my experience.
 
I have become a huge fan of late hop additions myself. I have not dry hopped a beer in quite a while but still get big hop flavor and don't have to deal with the clean up associated with dry hopping.

I know that dry hopping gives aroma but with the flavor from late hopping you really would not need as much dry hopping hence less chance for haze, as it would only be for aroma and not so much for flavor!

Just an idea!
 
I have become a huge fan of late hop additions myself. I have not dry hopped a beer in quite a while but still get big hop flavor and don't have to deal with the clean up associated with dry hopping.

I know that dry hopping gives aroma but with the flavor from late hopping you really would not need as much dry hopping hence less chance for haze, as it would only be for aroma and not so much for flavor!

Just an idea!

+1 on this. I don't miss the extra step one bit.
 
Is the late hop addition in the end of the boil. And for any recipe calling for dry hopping this will work with the same results.
 
I used 3lbs of DME in a 25min boil. Did 1oz,20min hop addition,.5oz 10 min addition,& .5oz 10min steep at flame out. Should get longer lasting hop usage this way. But the last ones are for aroma,even though I did notice some flavor complexity from the 1 week dry hop I did last time. Imo,the way I did this latest one should be better (1st one mentioned).
 
Aroma is completely reliant upon volatile compounds. Any hops added while the wort is either hot (prior to pitching) or off gassing (during active fermentation) will lose many of the more floral and earthy aromas. Nothing beats dry hopping to get that wonderful essence in an IPA.
 
I like whole hops and use them pretty much all the time. I cus them when I am dry hopping more than an ounce and am cleaning the carboy but still feel I get a better flavor from the whole flower. As for the stuff stuck to the side of the bottle...wait a week after the start of conditioning and give each bottle a sharp half twist. It will loosten the stuff on the side without stiring the bottom too much. I have been using the technique on everything that I bottle. Note that this does not effect the slight haze you get from dry hopping, just the chunks of hops andyeast etc that will collect on the side of the bottle sometimes.
 
whole leaf will absorb more beer IME

i use a mesh bag at the end of the siphon and it keeps the hop debris out with no clogging issues - just like everything else in this hobby there are plenty of different ways to go about it
 

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