HBrew71
Well-Known Member
Thank you! Was gonna use 1056 for Yooper's Dead Guy Clone. But now I will use Pacman instead.
American IPA Dogfish Head 60 Minute Clone (AG) & Extract
- Thread starter Yooper
- Start date
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Thank you! Was gonna use 1056 for Yooper's Dead Guy Clone. But now I will use Pacman instead.
Roadliner
Well-Known Member
HBrew71 said:
Glad i could help ya find it
BigPicture
Well-Known Member
1st I wanted to congratulate Yooper on an excellent recipe. 5 stars. This is also in the top 5 of all views & replies on HBT! Considering the number of different submissions, time frame HBT has been up, and # of folks here, this is quite the achievement! :fro: My Clone Brews book has almost the exact Dogfish Head recipe, but with slight variations. Yooper, you are still The Man!
I Choose You!
Proof is in the pudding for me, I brewed this & it came out fantastic! :rockin:
Now, my question is about the color. Pictures tell the tale:
Yuri Rage has posted his. 1 post he describes an extract, the next he describes all grain. The picture itself in a different post does not contain an exact description of what method he used. I can only assume extract since I previously used extract & got the same color.
Next Cranny04 posts his beer. I can only guess this color is due to his using all grain.
Now Beersmith has this on their webpage:
Extract brewers need to be aware that liquid extracts in particular tend to get darker as they age, and also that extracts will darken in a process called carmelization as they boil. I wrote an article on how to use late extract additions to reduce this effect. The net result of the aging and boiling effect is that many extract beers come out substantially darker than an estimate would indicate
Adjusting the Color of a Recipe
o Select the recipe you want to use either by opening it or selecting it from your My Recipes view
o Select the Adj Color button on the ribbon
o The scales will show the old and new color levels as well as the style range (graphically and numerically) for the style guide chosen for this recipe
o Enter your new color and press OK to adjust the color
At the risk of making a huge blunder.................................
Since I'm just a newbie, help!? If I simply adjust the amounts of grain in the 2 types you include, to get my desired color, will that change the taste of the beer significantly? I want to go all-grain & dark color.
Am I working too hard? Should I just stay with a proven method? If it ain't broke, don't fix it?!
I Choose You!
Proof is in the pudding for me, I brewed this & it came out fantastic! :rockin:
Now, my question is about the color. Pictures tell the tale:
Yuri Rage has posted his. 1 post he describes an extract, the next he describes all grain. The picture itself in a different post does not contain an exact description of what method he used. I can only assume extract since I previously used extract & got the same color.
Next Cranny04 posts his beer. I can only guess this color is due to his using all grain.
Now Beersmith has this on their webpage:
Extract brewers need to be aware that liquid extracts in particular tend to get darker as they age, and also that extracts will darken in a process called carmelization as they boil. I wrote an article on how to use late extract additions to reduce this effect. The net result of the aging and boiling effect is that many extract beers come out substantially darker than an estimate would indicate
Adjusting the Color of a Recipe
o Select the recipe you want to use either by opening it or selecting it from your My Recipes view
o Select the Adj Color button on the ribbon
o The scales will show the old and new color levels as well as the style range (graphically and numerically) for the style guide chosen for this recipe
o Enter your new color and press OK to adjust the color
At the risk of making a huge blunder.................................
Since I'm just a newbie, help!? If I simply adjust the amounts of grain in the 2 types you include, to get my desired color, will that change the taste of the beer significantly? I want to go all-grain & dark color.
Am I working too hard? Should I just stay with a proven method? If it ain't broke, don't fix it?!
OP
OP
Yes, if you adjust the amber malt to enough to impact the color, then yes, you'd change the flavor. Amber malt has a "biscuity" flavor that is dry in the finish, and it's noticeable in even a 6 ounces amount so I wouldn't increase that.
If you really really want a darker color, you could add two ounces of carafa special III to the mash, or sinimar. Those would make a color difference without a flavor impact.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
OP
OP
BigPicture
Well-Known Member
Geez................ you guys! And gals! I even put it in italics...........................
The typed word doesn't convey each meaning I guess. Even when I think I'm being overly clear, I'm not. My bad. Learning experience.
Thank you.
The typed word doesn't convey each meaning I guess. Even when I think I'm being overly clear, I'm not. My bad. Learning experience.
Thank you.
I brewed a second batch very close to this recipe for a second time. I split the batch and pitched Nottingham(pic on left) and Thames Valley(used this on my first batch). I pitched these last night and you can see the difference already. Used a two stage started for my washed Thames and a normal activation with the Nottingham. I plan on using frozen water bottles to keep fermentation temp in the low 60's at least the first week or so during active fermentation.
Excited to try these side by side and compare the yeasts!!
Excited to try these side by side and compare the yeasts!!
steber said:
And as usual, size matters...
Brewing this tomorrow. Sorry if this has been covered. I tried reading through and search but couldn't find what I wanted.
My brews have been coming out with a weird almost apple taste to it. I want to eliminate my water so I am going to use RO water. What kind of salts should I use? Using EZ spreadsheet, if I do 5.5 grams of CaCl2 I will get 50 ppm of Ca in my boil kettle. I also added 2 ounces of acid malt to bring the pH to 5.54. Does this sound ok?
I also want to try using sugar to carb instead of CO2. Beersmith says almost 2 ounces when I enter it all manually but the recipe I downloaded using Yooper's link it says to use 4 ounces. Which one should I use?
Edit: Went to my LHBS to get the ingredients. He tasted my Irish Red and agreed that it is most likely my water. He recommend I try spring water with some gypsum in it. I will be doing that with this batch to see how it comes out.
My brews have been coming out with a weird almost apple taste to it. I want to eliminate my water so I am going to use RO water. What kind of salts should I use? Using EZ spreadsheet, if I do 5.5 grams of CaCl2 I will get 50 ppm of Ca in my boil kettle. I also added 2 ounces of acid malt to bring the pH to 5.54. Does this sound ok?
I also want to try using sugar to carb instead of CO2. Beersmith says almost 2 ounces when I enter it all manually but the recipe I downloaded using Yooper's link it says to use 4 ounces. Which one should I use?
Edit: Went to my LHBS to get the ingredients. He tasted my Irish Red and agreed that it is most likely my water. He recommend I try spring water with some gypsum in it. I will be doing that with this batch to see how it comes out.
homebrewhaha
Well-Known Member
Acetaldehyde is the classic "green apple" off-flavor. Does it taste like that? If so I'd consider the health of your yeast.
Are you using liquid yeast? Are you making a starter?
What's your source and is there any opportunity for degradation during shipping or at the LHBS?
Are you brewing any big beers (high OG)?
maltoftheearth
Well-Known Member
Brewed this today but didn't have the amber malt on hand and only wanted a little additional color so I added .4oz of debittered black patent malt. I love the color, kind of mahogany, but that was way too much of the black malt. Probably about .1oz or .2oz would have done the trick.
Still, it smelled fantastic. I mashed low (151F) and had slightly more than 5 gallons so my efficiency was hurt (1.054) but it won't matter if it tastes great. I have a feeling the Pacman yeast I got is going to take this thing down close to 1.0.
Thanks for a great recipe!
Still, it smelled fantastic. I mashed low (151F) and had slightly more than 5 gallons so my efficiency was hurt (1.054) but it won't matter if it tastes great. I have a feeling the Pacman yeast I got is going to take this thing down close to 1.0.
Thanks for a great recipe!
homebrewhaha said:
I don't want to hijack this thread but I don't think it is acetaldehyde. I believe it is my tap water. My process is pretty good. I have good cleaning and sanitation. Yeast starter with liquid. Yeast is always stored cold and fresh.
I'm going to try spring water with a little gypsum with this recipe to see how it turns out.
Make sure your fermenters are clean. It could be an infection. Give 'em a good dose of bleach.
It could be but I don't think it is. I'm getting it from all of my buckets and I clean them well. Soak in Oxiclean and sanitize well before use.
I brewed this yesterday and so far I think this was the best AG batch yet.
I hit pre boil gravity to within a few points. I collected the exact amount of wort from my mash tun as I wanted. I did boil off a little more than I thought so I had to top off with 3/4 gallon of boiled water but when I did that my OG was 1.074. I did use 14 pounds of 2 row because my efficiency has been low. We did 3 batches yesterday so I let it sit outside to cool down to pitching temp. I pitched US-05 when I got home. Right now my basement is kind of cold so it is at 57. I'm hoping it goes up during the day. If not I might need to go buy a heater of some kind for my fridge.
Brewed the extract version of this recipe last night. I think everything went ok, though I am a novice (third batch ever) so I don't really know quite what to look for. OG was 1.062, and fermentation started after about 18 hours.
Two weird things that didn't happen with my 2 other brews. First - the wort was clear, but when I mixed it, it threw up all kind of sediment that settled back down in a matter of seconds. Not sure if this was because of the amount of hops I used, or maybe the break was different, but it certainly seemed different than the other ipa I brewed, which was a kit from my LHBS. The other weird thing that I didn't experience with my other brews was I tried to use a paint strainer bag to filter out the hops. I clipped the bag to the primary, and poured the cooled wort into the bag. I poured about half the wort into the bag, and the bag got so heavy that it ripped the clips off the side of the bucket. I held the bag up and it had about 5 pounds of sediment in it that just wasn't draining. I had to dump the bag into the primary, sediment and all, which I know won't really be a big issue since I plan on using a secondary anyway. But I thought it was odd that the bag didn't filter out the hops and instead clogged. Should I have poured the top-off water into the primary BEFORE I poured the wort in? Would that have diluted it, and thus allowed the paint strainer to do its job and not clog?
Did I ruin the thing?? Sorry if this is off-topic, but I figured since I brewed this beer it would be a good place to go for either 1) peace of mind, or 2) condolences.
Two weird things that didn't happen with my 2 other brews. First - the wort was clear, but when I mixed it, it threw up all kind of sediment that settled back down in a matter of seconds. Not sure if this was because of the amount of hops I used, or maybe the break was different, but it certainly seemed different than the other ipa I brewed, which was a kit from my LHBS. The other weird thing that I didn't experience with my other brews was I tried to use a paint strainer bag to filter out the hops. I clipped the bag to the primary, and poured the cooled wort into the bag. I poured about half the wort into the bag, and the bag got so heavy that it ripped the clips off the side of the bucket. I held the bag up and it had about 5 pounds of sediment in it that just wasn't draining. I had to dump the bag into the primary, sediment and all, which I know won't really be a big issue since I plan on using a secondary anyway. But I thought it was odd that the bag didn't filter out the hops and instead clogged. Should I have poured the top-off water into the primary BEFORE I poured the wort in? Would that have diluted it, and thus allowed the paint strainer to do its job and not clog?
Did I ruin the thing?? Sorry if this is off-topic, but I figured since I brewed this beer it would be a good place to go for either 1) peace of mind, or 2) condolences.
OP
OP
Two weird things that didn't happen with my 2 other brews. First - the wort was clear, but when I mixed it, it threw up all kind of sediment that settled back down in a matter of seconds. Not sure if this was because of the amount of hops I used, or maybe the break was different, but it certainly seemed different than the other ipa I brewed, which was a kit from my LHBS. The other weird thing that I didn't experience with my other brews was I tried to use a paint strainer bag to filter out the hops. I clipped the bag to the primary, and poured the cooled wort into the bag. I poured about half the wort into the bag, and the bag got so heavy that it ripped the clips off the side of the bucket. I held the bag up and it had about 5 pounds of sediment in it that just wasn't draining. I had to dump the bag into the primary, sediment and all, which I know won't really be a big issue since I plan on using a secondary anyway. But I thought it was odd that the bag didn't filter out the hops and instead clogged. Should I have poured the top-off water into the primary BEFORE I poured the wort in? Would that have diluted it, and thus allowed the paint strainer to do its job and not clog?
Did I ruin the thing?? Sorry if this is off-topic, but I figured since I brewed this beer it would be a good place to go for either 1) peace of mind, or 2) condolences.
It sounds ok! The paint strainers can clog with pellet hop debris, so don't worry about that. It happens to me too.
I don't use a secondary anymore, but if you do that's fine.
kombat
Well-Known Member
I'd like to make this brew in January, but my usual online sources are out of Amarillo and Simcoe. Are there acceptable substitutes, or do you expect the shortage to be eased a bit by January? Anyone know of a Canadian hop source that has Amarillo and Simcoe in stock?
Palisade instead of Amarillo, per BYO 60-Minute recipe.
so forgive me if this has been posted recently, but i don't exactly feel like reading 174 pages to find the answer......is the recipe the first post in the thread? I know that was posted before the final product had been sampled, but has it changed along the way?
OP
OP
No, it hasn't changed. It's against the forum rules to post a recipe that hasn't been brewed more than once, and needs to be repeatable. I brewed it and sampled it before posting, and many times after.
It's been brewed by me at least 25 times, probably more.
That is impressive, Yoop! I can only imagine what you have learned with that much experience. Cheers!
OP
OP
Cheers!
I don't know how much I've learned, but my liver has had quite a workout!
I brew pretty often, and I stopped counting my batches several years ago but I guessed that I'm up over 350 batches or more, plus many batches of wine, mead, and cider. (I was a winemaker before brewing). Right now, I have more wine in fermenters than beer.
Since I like hoppy beers the most, I tend to brew more APAs and IPAs than other beers but right now I have an IPA on tap (this one), an amber, and a stout and a hoppy pale ale in the fermenter. I make a few lagers a year, a few other specialty beers (like california common) and then try to keep at least one other different beer on tap most of the time. I brew often, but not as much as I like. I brew maybe 3 times per month now.
hio3791
Well-Known Member
I finally got around to brewing this recipe. My LHBS has Amarillo and Simcoe so I made a 10 gal batch Sat night. I brew in the garage and love brewing in the cold. My CFC knocked the temp down to 65F in no time. I split the batch between 2 buckets, 1 with US-05 and the other with Nottingham. The beer is happily fermenting at 63F.
Thanks for sharing this recipe!
Thanks for sharing this recipe!
hio3791 said:
Your LHBS has amarillo? I recommend going back today and buying as much as they will sell you. And then send some to me
My LHBS had amarillo too. The guy said he got about 50 ounces, and that would probably be it for the year. How long will those pellets stay good for if I throw them in the fridge? I may go back and get a few more, but I don't plan on using them for a couple months.
hio3791
Well-Known Member
Your LHBS has amarillo? I recommend going back today and buying as much as they will sell you. And then send some to me
I was shocked they had it in stock! They don't carry Thomas Fawcett Amber Malt and I didn't want to pay ridiculous shipping charges for 12 oz so I went with Crisp Amber.
Just an update, checked on the beer this morning to find the bucket with Nottingham had kreusen coming through the airlock! I was purposely fermenting the beer on the low range to slow down the fermentation a bit and minimize the chances of a blowoff. Oh well for that!
Basement smells so nice, can't wait to try this beer!
