Dank Hop Schedule Help

[rodwha]

The recipe is for a black IPA and I was given the advice to pair Simcoe and Chinook with what would have been an all Columbus IPA. I have 2 packs of Columbus that are each 2 oz and a single oz of the other two hops.

The way I really have liked to do my IPAs is to use a small amount for bittering (15-20 IBUs), and do a standard 15 and 5 min addition, along with a whirlpool that shoots for 90+ IBUs. And then a good size dry hop. I’m figuring I’ll be using a 2 oz pack of Columbus and both oz of the others.

It seems that both the Simcoe and Chinook would be best at 5 mins, maybe the whirlpool?, and the dry hop. How would you divvy up the hops to achieve a nice dankness?

 

[Kickass]

What volume are you brewing? Is it safe to assume something less than 5 gallons since you have 6 oz’s of hops to work with?

 

[hottpeper13]

Everybody has different opinions on this but I like mine to be more towards west coast hop schedules. I would do CTZ at 60 for 1/2 the bittering charge, Chinook at 30- 1/4 charge and Simcoe at flameout for the rest with a 10-20 min whirlpool. I like Chinook for the dry hop.

 

[rodwha]

What volume are you brewing? Is it safe to assume something less than 5 gallons since you have 6 oz’s of hops to work with?

Sorry. Yes, this is a 2.5 gal batch.

 

[rodwha]

Everybody has different opinions on this but I like mine to be more towards west coast hop schedules. I would do CTZ at 60 for 1/2 the bittering charge, Chinook at 30- 1/4 charge and Simcoe at flameout for the rest with a 10-20 min whirlpool. I like Chinook for the dry hop.

I love a ton of the west coast IPAs I’ve had. Just got back from a trip to CA and back, a 17 day trip that netted a ton of beer to bring back.

Close to ten years ago or so I was struggling in pursuit of making mine taste like that despite shooting for the high end of the IBU range. Ultimately I’ve cut my bittering down to just enough to take the sweet edge off (10-20 IBUs), use it as a first wort hop, and load up on a 15 min, a 5 min, and a whirlpool followed by a dry hop. And I shoot for 90+ IBUs if I can.

I created a quick simple recipe to showcase what my hopping schedule would have looked like using the 4 oz of Columbus (12.2% AA) I got in a 2.5 gal batch:

5 lbs 2-row
0.5 lb crystal 60
0.125 oz @ FWH (15 IBUs)
.9375 oz @ 15 min (28) and 5 min (17)
1 oz @ 185° WP for 30 min (37)
US-05

6.4% and 97 IBUs

Now this only left me with 1 oz for dry hopping so I’d have ordered another ounce feeling like that would me minimal for an IPA. It’s a little harder working in smaller increments and I just don’t care whole lot for opened packages in the freezer waiting any longer. Seeing what I see now I’d order a 1/2 oz of Cascade and use 1/2 of that for bittering.

I have on my list of things to do eventually is go back to a more traditional, but on the lighter side still, bittering addition.

I am contemplating trying out the vacuum sealer to see how well hops last once opened, and I’ve wondered if it can reseal the original packaging. I’d hate to ruin my vacuum sealer though… Until then I intend to make 4-4.5 oz work for an IPA, and would love to hear how you’d do it differently and why.

 

[Kickass]

Why not toss the Simcoe and Chinook in with the CTZ at dry hop? I think that’s be perfect.

 

[Beermeister32]

Go to the LHBS and buy more Simcoe for the flameout addition and dry hop.

 

[marc1]

I am contemplating trying out the vacuum sealer to see how well hops last once opened, and I’ve wondered if it can reseal the original packaging. I’d hate to ruin my vacuum sealer though… Until then I intend to make 4-4.5 oz work for an IPA, and would love to hear how you’d do it differently and why.

Hops last great vacuum sealed in the deep freezer. After opening, I leave the remainder in the original packaging and then seal the whole thing in a big bag. The plastic can be reused if you leave extra room and only cut off a bit at each opening.

Buying by the pound can save a lot of money