American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale
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Here is a great article on adding hops during fermentation (or better said, close to the end of active fermentation).
https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3187-advanced-dry-hopping-techniques
https://byo.com/stories/issue/item/3187-advanced-dry-hopping-techniques
catdaddy66
Well-Known Member
My attempt at this recipe has turned out to be my best effort in the last six months! Clean and crisp, perfectly carbed and delicious. Only knock is it's a bit cloudy but it affects the imbibing not one iota.
Da Yooper! Watch for pics tomorrow at the community brewery tasting. I am doing "quality sampling" tonight 
Hope we get enough votes for this to be a flagship beer - if John Q Public does not vote for it I can assure you it will be a staple at Hell's Half Acre here in the Piney Woods of N. FL.
Hope we get enough votes for this to be a flagship beer - if John Q Public does not vote for it I can assure you it will be a staple at Hell's Half Acre here in the Piney Woods of N. FL.So how long do you typically give this one, before drinking?
I had it in primary for about a month. Kegged and force carbed, it wasn't particularly good right away. It's been kegged a week now and already much better.
I'm thinking with the malt forward style, it's more like a 6 week or more beer. Thoughts?
I had it in primary for about a month. Kegged and force carbed, it wasn't particularly good right away. It's been kegged a week now and already much better.
I'm thinking with the malt forward style, it's more like a 6 week or more beer. Thoughts?
Nightstrife
Well-Known Member
Yeah I think your about right. I leave this in the primary for 3 weeks, dry hopping for the last week. Two weeks of bottle conditioning. It generally tastes better at the third week of conditioning. Then its really good till its gone.
OP
OP
Da Yooper! Watch for pics tomorrow at the community brewery tasting. I am doing "quality sampling" tonight
I saw that on facebook (as you know!). I'm so glad it was a success for you.
I love this beer.
Iceman6409
Well-Known Member
I am looking to make this beer this weekend. As I am not a fan of IPA's, too hoppy for me, I do like a nice APA, which is what I think this is. Can someone describe to me the over taste and how is the level of hoppiness.
I find this not very hoppy at all....I find this more a malt forward PA...maybe more similar to an English pale ale, rather than an APA. Very tasty, I'm sure you'll enjoy it.
wixziu
Active Member
As a followup to my earlier post, I ended up dry hopping early, after about 9 days of primary. I dry hopped 5 days before transferring to keg. I was a little high on final gravity (1.018) but it had not changed for about a week. I think this was due to my poor efficiency with my BIAB technique. So ABV came in around 4.2%.
After a week in the keg it really started to come together. As others mentioned, it is malt forward with a nice citrus aroma and taste. All in all I think this will be a great lawnmower beer with the weather getting nicer. Thanks for the great recipe!
After a week in the keg it really started to come together. As others mentioned, it is malt forward with a nice citrus aroma and taste. All in all I think this will be a great lawnmower beer with the weather getting nicer. Thanks for the great recipe!
BrewinBromanite
Well-Known Member
I'm sure will still taste great. What's your BIAB technique like? I did my first AG BIAB with this recipe a couple years back, and overshot efficiency and ended up at 7% ABV. Still one of my favorite batches. Malty and hoppy goodness. I did a double batch sparge and squeezed like a mad man, though. I've since adjusted the estimated efficiency in beer smith for BIAB batches.
wixziu
Active Member
It does taste great! With BIAB, I gradually pull out the bag to allow self draining and then when it is finally out of the wort I squeeze the crap out of it until it is dry and then sit in a bucket in case liquid remains. I don't do any sparging of the bag itself after I squeeze it.
Probably get around 55% efficiency this way which I try to adjust for with additional grains. The bizarre thing is that the OG is actually spot on to recipe, so I'm guessing I'm getting a lot of unfermentables. This is the second recipe that this has happened with so I don't think it's a one off.
I have since built a MLT and already I am getting over 70% efficiency. I also started aerating with pure O2 and this is helping kick fermentation off quicker. But I would still like to figure out what to change with my BIAB technique.
Probably get around 55% efficiency this way which I try to adjust for with additional grains. The bizarre thing is that the OG is actually spot on to recipe, so I'm guessing I'm getting a lot of unfermentables. This is the second recipe that this has happened with so I don't think it's a one off.
I have since built a MLT and already I am getting over 70% efficiency. I also started aerating with pure O2 and this is helping kick fermentation off quicker. But I would still like to figure out what to change with my BIAB technique.
Doing a dunk sparge, in 170F water, increased my efficiency with BIAB. I heat the water on the stove, then dump it into a bucket, then dunk the bag into the bucket and let it steep for 10 mins. Then add that sparge water to BK
yes you can also use less water in your pot for the mash, save the rest, heat it and pour it in a bucket or 2 depending on the size then let it rest in the bucket for 10 minutes, then dunk, drain and squeeze again
OP
OP
Yes that would work.
Another strain that I like (but haven't used in this exact recipe) is Wyeast 1272. It clears better, and has about the same attenuation and temperature requirements. I'm using that right now in a "Fresh Squeezed"- ish IPA, and it enhances the citrusy hops beautifully.
The other one I'd consider is Wyeast 1332- it's really a nice yeast to use in pale ales, and it has a high flocculation so it will leave a nice clear beer when it's done.
Great thanks!
I actually made this with US05. It is delicious. The crazy thing was, I kegged this beer at about 4 weeks, force carbed, 2 days later tasted it....and hated it. I just let it sit cold in keg for a week, then came back to it, and it was very good. I'm about 14 days in the keg now, and it's even better.
I don't brew a lot of malt-forward beers like this, usually big hops and simple grain bills. This one needs some time, IMO. At 6 weeks, it's awesome.
I don't brew a lot of malt-forward beers like this, usually big hops and simple grain bills. This one needs some time, IMO. At 6 weeks, it's awesome.
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Drinking the first pint of my second batch of this recipe now (it's still undercarbed but I couldn't resist). This is one of three Yooper recipes that I've brewed and all three were killer.
I love that this recipe uses all Cascade...I know exactly what this glorious hop does at every stage because of this little guy. I have trouble committing to a SMASH beer because after the brew I still have to drink 5 gallons of it....but this is a well balanced, super-drinkable beer.
I'll probably start tweaking it now, working from this to get to my own "house" pale ale, but that's more because I like tinkering than because there is anything specific that I would change. Thanks for a great recipe, here's to you Yoop! (raising half carbed glass)
I love that this recipe uses all Cascade...I know exactly what this glorious hop does at every stage because of this little guy. I have trouble committing to a SMASH beer because after the brew I still have to drink 5 gallons of it....but this is a well balanced, super-drinkable beer.
I'll probably start tweaking it now, working from this to get to my own "house" pale ale, but that's more because I like tinkering than because there is anything specific that I would change. Thanks for a great recipe, here's to you Yoop! (raising half carbed glass)
One last final shout out to Yooper for a fantastic recipe! My last pint and sad to see it go. If I could improve just one thing on the next one it would be clearing it up better. For those of you reading this thread considering brewing this but haven't yet, save yourself some time and thinking and just do it!
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1461370994.362756.jpg
View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1461370994.362756.jpg
Subdivisions
Well-Known Member
dbillingsby
Well-Known Member
dbillingsby
Well-Known Member
So I just brewed a pale ale based on the book BCS but this one looks great. Has the recipe changed from page 1 much (or at all)? I only found this thread after page 93 or so. I might try this after I brew another 2 or 3 batches.
it has not changed. people have made their own twists, but most people are using page 1
Just finished brewing da yoopers
brew703
Well-Known Member
Will be brewing batch#2 next weekend. Only change is I will add citra/Amarillo as a late addition (FO) and dry hop and will be using the yeast cake (1056) from another PA (Russian River) that I will be racking to a secondary next weekend.
ZebulonBrewer
Well-Known Member
Just finished cleaning up after making my first batch of this beer. 1.057 OG and 5.2 gallons of beer: 74% efficiency (whoo). Looking forward to having this in a 3 - 4 weeks.
rlmiller10
Well-Known Member
This basic recipe has spawned about half of my beers. The original is great, but add hops and you have an IPA. Cut down a bit on the MO and you have a a more hop forward IPA. And, of course, brew it just as written (so it is written, so it is done). There are hundreds of variations on this that can all be good.
Thank You Yooper
Thank You Yooper
brew703
Well-Known Member
Brewing batch #2 on Friday. Will brew as noted (using 1056) but want to change the hops.
Will add Cascade at FWH then 10/5/0. The dry hops I'm thinking Amarillo and Mosaic. Anyone use this combo? I also have Chinook and Citra but wanted to try something without Citra.
so my options are to use Amarillo/Mosaic or Chinook as a dry hop.
Thoughts?
Will add Cascade at FWH then 10/5/0. The dry hops I'm thinking Amarillo and Mosaic. Anyone use this combo? I also have Chinook and Citra but wanted to try something without Citra.
so my options are to use Amarillo/Mosaic or Chinook as a dry hop.
Thoughts?
Kegged this up today I had a sample and all I can say is DAM. Can't wait tell there is room in the kegarator. So l can move this in
tkeel92
Member
If I'm planning to use WLP001 what temp would you recommend fermenting at? Still 62F? Also curious if anyone has used an English ale yeast
BrewinBromanite
Well-Known Member
Nightstrife
Well-Known Member
White Labs website states the optimum fermentation temp for wlp001 is 68-73f. I have used this strain a lot and I usually pitch around 70 to get the yeast going. At the same time I pitch I drop the air temp around my fermentation bucket to 64 ish degrees. I usually hold that temp for about 4 days then I quit keeping the temp low and let it climb up to about 68 over about 4 days. At that point I let the yeast clean up after themselves and bottle at the three week mark. Results seem really good. I haven't had any off flavors, phenols or esters from the yeast.
BrewinBromanite
Well-Known Member
Cool, thanks. I've found the manufacturer temp ranges are hit or miss, and probably accounts for brewers that use temp control and that use the dark closet method (and they don't describe flavor variances at different points in the range). Thanks for the feedback.
wixziu
Active Member
It was sad to see this one go. I actually brewed a pale ale kit right after this and I have to say I prefer this recipe more. Definitely a crowd pleaser. Below are some pics showing how the beer cleared up over time...maybe some gelatin to speed this up?
brew703
Well-Known Member
There's something about clear beer. I'll be bottling my batch tonight. I use gelatin for al brews.
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