American Pale Ale Da Yooper's House Pale Ale

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ZebulonBrewer

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When I brewed it had two minor deviations from the recipe: I accidentally mashed too high (156) and also subbed 0.5 oz of columbus at flameout. Had this in the keg about 4 days, and it still needs a little carbonation, but it's quite good. A little cloudy like some of the other pictures, but I didn't use gelatin and I don't care too much.

Looking forward to it developing over time. Cheers! :mug:

 

rlmiller10

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When I brewed it had two minor deviations from the recipe: I accidentally mashed too high (156) and also subbed 0.5 oz of columbus at flameout. Had this in the keg about 4 days, and it still needs a little carbonation, but it's quite good. A little cloudy like some of the other pictures, but I didn't use gelatin and I don't care too much.

Looking forward to it developing over time. Cheers! :mug:

Mashing at that temp, what was the FG?
 

Nightstrife

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I have a quick question on your mash. Are you using a single infusion type or are you raising up to that temp?

I ask because I recently did a Dunkelweizen with all the steps for a traditional step mash and I accidentally overshot my low sacc mash and went right into the hight sacc mash at about 156ish. I figured that I stayed in the lower temp for about 7-12 min... Its still in the fermenter so we will see...
 

ZebulonBrewer

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I have a quick question on your mash. Are you using a single infusion type or are you raising up to that temp?

I ask because I recently did a Dunkelweizen with all the steps for a traditional step mash and I accidentally overshot my low sacc mash and went right into the hight sacc mash at about 156ish. I figured that I stayed in the lower temp for about 7-12 min... Its still in the fermenter so we will see...
It was a single infusion BIAB with a cold pour-over sparge. Just happened to be a little bit high.
 

Nightstrife

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It was a single infusion BIAB with a cold pour-over sparge. Just happened to be a little bit high.
Thabk you!

I usually mash this recipe around 154 (not much lower that 156) and it finishes around the same place... In truth it seams that the swing is a bit more extreme for lower body/alcohol.
 

CiliCoop

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Im going for it this weekend. I bit off more than I could chew for my first all grain. Got a recipe sent to me from Fort Collins brewery. Hit some road bumps and fermented kind of hot, but in the bottles now and should hopefully turn out drinkable. This recipe looks much more manageable and obviously tastes great. Cant wait!
 

pretzelb

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I brewed this for the first time on Sunday and on Thursday it is still bubbling pretty strong. I used us05 to keep it simple. I'm going to skip the dry hop because it seems pretty hoppy already for a pale ale. No space right now to serve so luckily I can let this finish for a while.

View attachment 1465484512324.jpg
 

Jwin

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I brewed 10 gallons of this a month or so ago using us05. Everything went well and finished up. Then today I came home to this any reason it would do this so late . It's just bubbles not infection
Did it get particularly warm today?
 

BrewinBromanite

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First time I cold crashed a few years back, brought in the carboy into the house the night before from the garage fridge to let the yeast settle, since it gets jostled a little when carrying. Probably defeated he purpose of cold crashing...but anywho...the next morning it was bubbling pretty good. Waited another day to bottle because I thought the warmth from the move to the house "restarted" fermentation and was worried about bottle bombs. This was after a month of healthy fermentation. Realized later it was just C02 escaping due to the increase in temp, not more fermentation. May be what you are experiencing, as Jwin has alluded to.
 

fvirzi

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I am in south Florida so ya it tends to get a little warm.[emoji16]. But it never got any higher then usual.hopeing that's all it is I picked up a fermentation chamber last weekend so I should have it set up by this weekend and won't have to worry about this anymore. Damn beer can be pretty finicky. LOL
 

rrvbrad88

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This was my first AG brew and after 4 weeks in the fermenter and only 10 days in the bottle its delicious! Absolutely no "extract twang" (duh I guess). It was an interesting first all grain brew but I'm very happy with the end result. Definitely makes all the work of brewing worth it.
 

houser31

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Could I replace the MO / 2-row with 6-row? Have some extra I need to use... thoughts?
 

Nightstrife

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Could I replace the MO / 2-row with 6-row? Have some extra I need to use... thoughts?
You could. But bare in mind that you will probably loose the biscuit / nutty like flavors. Its not a lager per se but you may consider adding a diacetyl like rest as you could introduce those types of buttery off flavors. On a positive note 6 row should have more protein and thus contribute significantly to a nice foamy head.
 

JONNYROTTEN

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This might become my house brew..Awesome beer..I whirlpooled with centennial at 180 deg for a 1/2 hour and dry hopped with cascade/centennial just because it sounded good...and is!
 

MarkZ56

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Making this for the second time on Saturday. I have fought the urge to make elaborate brews because I really want to master a few simple beers that I can start to predict results on and this beer is hands down going to be a regular beer for me. I expect to make it at least once more and as many as 4 times in 2017. I'm going to use 1 LB of Crystal 40 since I don't like hanging on to 1\2 LBs of grain. I did that the first time I made it and it worked just fine.

To Yooper-I hope that's ok ;) Its your recipe and here we are all talking about how we change it!
 

Beeru

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I started a batch of this last night. I didn't quite hit my OG, but got to 1.05, which is good enough for me.

I am wondering about how to increase my efficiency, though, with the system I have right now. I'm in a small place, so I don't have much room for a proper mash / lauter tun. What I am doing is a variation between Brew in A Bag and a typical mash-sparge procedure, as if I had a mash tun.

What I have is a brew kettle with a false bottom, spigot, and thermometer. So what I do is put in 6 litres of water to bring it up to the start of the false bottom, then I add the required amount for the mash (my reasoning here is to have the same mash thickness - but I have this space below the false bottom now filled with water) I bring my water up to temp, add my grains, give them a good stir. I should note that I've also used a brew bag to cover the false bottom rather than putting the grains in the bag, as I can never find a bag large enough for an all-grain 5 gallon batch. (I do this just to catch sediment)
I then cover my kettle with insulation and let it steep. I'm not sure if I need to vorlauf or not, but I do it anyway out of tradition. It does seem to clear up a bit, despite the false bottom. Next I sparge, but my sparge water is short that 6 litres that I used to fill the space in the false bottom. So, I am always doing a smaller sparge than what is called for.

I then clean out my kettle to put the wart back in for the boil (with false bottom in to catch the hops).
Then it's the same old process - transfer to primary, quickly cool (I have a copper wort chiller), pitch yeast, and bobs your uncle.
 

55x11

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I have not done BIAB but you may want to consider simply adding a little more grain (or extract if you don't have enough volume), or double milling (or killing more finely) your grains. The next step is playing with water chemistry to get to mash pH of about 5.2-5.4. I would just add more grains if I were you.
 

Jwin

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Beeru, I think a proper bag is in order. BobbyM has one at brewhardware for around $15-18 that will line my 15g kettle(16x16). I used it as a hop sock, but that's a different story.
They are very fine and would allow a double crush.
After that, maybe look at recirculating your mash and maybe doing full volume/no sparge. See the cheap Chinese food grade pump thread in the DIY section. That would be sufficient.pairing the bag with the false bottom would also allow you to apply heat if needed and the recirculation would aid in evenly distributing said heat.
Of course wislebrewer(sp?) Makes some fine bags, but they are a bit more $.
Another, simpler thing would be adding some enzyme. +1 on pH.
 

Beeru

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Beeru, I think a proper bag is in order. BobbyM has one at brewhardware for around $15-18 that will line my 15g kettle(16x16). I used it as a hop sock, but that's a different story.
They are very fine and would allow a double crush.
After that, maybe look at recirculating your mash and maybe doing full volume/no sparge. See the cheap Chinese food grade pump thread in the DIY section. That would be sufficient.pairing the bag with the false bottom would also allow you to apply heat if needed and the recirculation would aid in evenly distributing said heat.
Of course wislebrewer(sp?) Makes some fine bags, but they are a bit more $.
Another, simpler thing would be adding some enzyme. +1 on pH.
Thank you for the reply (and to the previous post).
I think I will try using a proper bag. I was going to a while back, and I ordered some online, but they ended up being too small (which is why I now use them to just cover the false bottom). I also live in a city where the water is pretty good, but its bound to be quite chlorinated. Will adding some enzyme counter the chlorine in the water - is that it's main purpose?

When you say recirculating, you just mean taking some out part way through steeping the grains, to just pour it back over the top? I've never had to try this, as my temperature remains pretty constant over the hour (unless my thermometer is off)

And, last question - will doing a full mash without a sparge not reduce my efficiency a bit?
 

Jwin

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1)no. You need to treat chlorine with Camden - adding enzyme could help. Could do little. It's at most lhbs. It's just additional enzyme to aid I conversation.
2)you would be pulling wort from you diptube and running it through your mash. Out the bottom, in the top.
3) it can be worse efficiency but given your setup restrictions, I think it's the best option coupled with recirculation.

I'm guessing that your sparge is probably where you are loading gravity points. Most likely your water is just running down the sides of the kettle.
 

Wheelspin

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Second that 55x11. Do your recipe for the OG you want. Then after the boil, add perviously boiled water to the kettle to bring it back up to the required level. I do this all the time and it works perfectly. Brewing science indicates that you can add up to 30% water after the boil without affecting the flavour.

Double crushing will also work very well esp with BIAB as you won't have stuck sparge problem.
 

Jim311

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I'm boiling up a batch of this right now, Yoop. I doubled the dry hops but otherwise the recipe is the same, thanks for posting it, I'm sure it will be delicious.
 

SevenOaks

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I brewed this one again. The first time I used what I determined were old, stale cascade hops and I had to "fix" it by adding an ounce of Motueka hops to the keg after-the-fact. That worked so well that this time, after ensuring that I used fresh cascades, that I included an ounce of Motuekas in the dry hop - everything else according to the original recipe.

It's been kegged for one week and I am very happy with this beer. My problem now is that I only have 4 taps on my kegerator and this will make the third house beer that must.not.be.out.

I may have to go back to bottling half of my brews.
 

kcinpdx

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Finally going to brew this one tomorrow. I'm sticking to the original recipe except yeast - using Imperial Yeast A24 "dry hop". Should be good!
 

brew703

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Anyone using any other hops/combinations besides Cascade?
I've brewed this two times with cascade and looking for something different to try.
 

Jwin

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Anyone using any other hops/combinations besides Cascade?
I've brewed this two times with cascade and looking for something different to try.
I did centennial and Chinook IIRC.
This is a solid base for a PA/IPA. I think you'd have to try hard to screw it up.
 

Tommydee

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Chose this as my 2nd ever all grain, 5th batch overall, and first on my new BIAB setup. (Bayou classic 10 gallon, with custom Wilserbag).

I really love beers that ride the line between APA and IPA, and this fit the bill....also I have a lb of cascade in the freezer, and no other hops!
Used beersmith to scale to a 4.3 L size, and 50 IBU (I have 5 gallon glass carboy for fermenter, and on the stove). I think my equipment can handle to 5, so I might to a full load next time.

Pitched a pack of WLP001, first time using this. Currently in the chamber at 66 F. Plan to dryhop right into my carboy( no sock) at day 14, and bottle at day 21. Wort looked and tasted great, and hit the OG pretty close. Excited. Thanks, Yoop!:tank:
 

brew703

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I am going to use 7 C's (a variety of falconers flight) in the next batch of this that I brew.
Never tried those hops. I'll be brewing another batch in a few weeks- still unsure of which hop or hops I will use.
I have some Citra I need to use so I may go with that and one other hop.
 

Tommydee

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Great beer. A lot of firsts for me.
First all grain in my new kettle/wilserbag BIAB setup.
First successful allgrain, 2nd overall. (Made a sweet half fermented Irish stout)
Firs time not using a kit.
First time oxygenating my wort
First time kegging:tank:
First time dryhopping.
First beer that I'm actually proud to share!

Is a bit foamy, still need to learn how to set up keg serving pressure.....
Thanks Yoop!

IMG_0083.jpg
 

Oldskewl

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Great beer. A lot of firsts for me.
First all grain in my new kettle/wilserbag BIAB setup.
First successful allgrain, 2nd overall. (Made a sweet half fermented Irish stout)
Firs time not using a kit.
First time oxygenating my wort
First time kegging:tank:
First time dryhopping.
First beer that I'm actually proud to share!

Is a bit foamy, still need to learn how to set up keg serving pressure.....
Thanks Yoop!
Looks good! Congratulations. How do you get it to stay in the glass? Mine runs out when I turn it sideways. :mug:
 

brew703

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Gonna try and brew this weekend. Decided on equal amts of mosaic/simcoe/centennial at 10 & 0 and dh with simcoe and mosaic. May add a 15 min addition and eliminate the 10 min.
 
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