Control Products Dual Relay $60 Shipped on Amazon

[LandoLincoln]

Take a look at the STC-1000 build threads. They are actually very easy to assemble and operate. I built one into a 2 outlet old work blue plastic box and it works great for running the fridge and heat wraps. They are actually very easy to build and get working properly. I can keep my lager temps at around 45 degrees in the Fla summer heat pretty easilly. I am using a dorm frige made into a blue board chamber and the larger volume makes it a little slower cooling, but once it gets there it maintains it extremely well. My total investment was less than 20 bucks for everything including the STC-1000, circuit box, outlet and cover. I already had a cord and wiring here, so I didnt have to buy any more stuff to get it to work great. Hope this helps to get you back on the path and going again.
Wheelchair Bob

I've built both, and the STC-1000 is okay, and it can fit in a tighter enclosure, but this one is in °F, and has a few other features that the STC-1000 does not have.

 

[doc_rob]

edit: nevermind!

 

[PacificNWBrewer]

I love this thread! I want to build a keezer/fermentation chamber (basically this http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/The-Mother-of-All-Fermentation-Chillers) and need a controller to run the keezer at serving temp and one to control the fermentation chamber. I was thinking of using the TC-9102D-HV Dual Stage to run the chamber and a STC-1000 to run the keezer. However, if you're Amazon Prime, the TC-9102D is $59 rather than $120. At that price, I could get 2 and run all of it with both. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APR3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Any other suggestions or advice?
Thank you!

 

[BungBrewing]

I love this thread! I want to build a keezer/fermentation chamber (basically this http://www.wortomatic.com/articles/The-Mother-of-All-Fermentation-Chillers) and need a controller to run the keezer at serving temp and one to control the fermentation chamber. I was thinking of using the TC-9102D-HV Dual Stage to run the chamber and a STC-1000 to run the keezer. However, if you're Amazon Prime, the TC-9102D is $59 rather than $120. At that price, I could get 2 and run all of it with both. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0057APR3I/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

Any other suggestions or advice?
Thank you!

You're not going to be able to control two temperature zones with this controller. You can use it to control two-stage heating (to control minimum temperature), two-stage cooling (to control maximum temperature), or control both heating and cooling (to control maximum and minimum temperatures). It only has one sensor for a single zone. Dual zone controllers are available (I believe Love make them), but they can be expensive...

 

[PacificNWBrewer]

Thank you for the feedback but I know one controller will not do what I need. I stated I wanted to use one type for the top chamber and another for the bottom. Should have been more clear about that, sorry.

 

[theSlex]

Finally took the time to register here after getting my fermentation chamber up and running.

I owe a HUGE thanks to the posters in this thread, in particular LandoLincoln.

I came into this project with absolutely no electricial knowledge, very little patience and large, clumsy hands. The images and descriptions in this thread saved me a good $50 and have me a solid DIY buzz.

 

[LandoLincoln]

Finally took the time to register here after getting my fermentation chamber up and running.

I owe a HUGE thanks to the posters in this thread, in particular LandoLincoln.

I came into this project with absolutely no electricial knowledge, very little patience and large, clumsy hands. The images and descriptions in this thread saved me a good $50 and have me a solid DIY buzz.

Glad we could help! Lord help you if you've got the brewing DIY bug now. Stay away from the keezer threads! They'll suck you right in!

 

[dasdrewids]

A second Cheers to LandoLincoln! Just got mine wired and tested. Thanks for the diagram and the tip on the junction box (I was just going to make a squid originally). Will be setting it up on the lager fridge soon (waiting on my BeerBug to arrive to brew the first batch to go in).

 

[IMNOTL8]

I just got around to wiring the TC-9102 this past weekend for my kegerator/lagering refrigerator. Everything seems to be working right but was curious how you guys have your temperature probe mounted/placed? I just have the PTC sensor that came with the unit. I know this is not supposed to be submerged in fluid, but has anyone built something that just the tip sits in some sort of fluid for a more accurate temp? Any pictures of your placement would be awesome!

 

[LandoLincoln]

I just got around to wiring the TC-9102 this past weekend for my kegerator/lagering refrigerator. Everything seems to be working right but was curious how you guys have your temperature probe mounted/placed? I just have the PTC sensor that came with the unit. I know this is not supposed to be submerged in fluid, but has anyone built something that just the tip sits in some sort of fluid for a more accurate temp? Any pictures of your placement would be awesome!

I usually use Brewhaulers on my carboys, and I take the probe and place it between one of the Brewhauler straps and the glass of the carboy. Is that the BEST way to do it? I don't know. But it seems to work well.

 

[Smuve21]

Question, I've bought one of these controllers and I was wiring it up here and there when I had some time to sit down. Where is the number 9 wire coming from? Is this coming off of the power plug?

 

[manofleisure]

Question, I've bought one of these controllers and I was wiring it up here and there when I had some time to sit down. Where is the number 9 wire coming from? Is this coming off of the power plug?

I used this thread as a reference when I built my controller. Yes, wire 9 comes from the power plug. It is wired together with the white wire in the power cord and the white wire that goes to the controller.

 

[Tomcat0304]

So, Is this the correct wiring diagram? I have not tried wiring anything previously. Based on this diagram it looks like there would be 4 places where 3 wires come together in wire nuts, correct? Or, would it be better (possible?) to have the hot wire from the incoming power, one wire from stage 1, and one wire from stage 2 all in the 120 screw? Again, I've never messed with electricity before, so, please forgive my ignorance.

View attachment TC-9102 HV Wiring Diagram.pdf

 

[day_trippr]

Looking at the drawing, for a dual-stage setup the hot (black) feed circuit would require four wires inside a nut, as would the neutral (gray) circuit. The safety ground only needs three, and then there are the two jumpers for the stage outputs to the loads that are "nutless" (yeah, I said it ) That's how I wired all of my dual-stage controllers, as I can over-size the wiring with only single ends inside the terminals...

Cheers!

 

[Tomcat0304]

Is there anything wrong with keeping all the pigtails, wire nuts, and connections within the outlet box and having a 4'-5' run between the controller and outlet box?

 

[LandoLincoln]

Is there anything wrong with keeping all the pigtails, wire nuts, and connections within the outlet box and having a 4'-5' run between the controller and outlet box?

Nope.

 

[dasdrewids]

Is there anything wrong with keeping all the pigtails, wire nuts, and connections within the outlet box and having a 4'-5' run between the controller and outlet box?

That's how mine's setup. So it might still be wrong, but at least you're in good company!

 

[Imbibecules]

I just wanted to add that you can get better temperature readings using a thermowell. It was sort of a pain to find one with an i.d. that would fit the probe for this controller, but my search paid off with this product. http://www.brewershardware.com/16-Stainless-Steel-Thermowell.html Also, I forget which month it was, but BYO magazine had a good article sometime in 2012 that was about temperature controllers, sensor placement, use of a thermowell, temperature fluctuations, and so on. The gist of it is that thermowells are great at giving you a more accurate temperature reading, and help smooth out the fluctuations in beer temperature inside of your freezer.

One caveat that they had pointed out, which should have been common sense (therefore it escaped me), is that your freezer will probably dip dangerously low in temperature right after you put a new beer in it if you set your controller to your final fermentation point and are using a thermowell. The reason is obvious. Basically, the center of the liquid stays warmer for a longer period of time than the edges of the liquid which may get cool enough to give you some yeast activity concerns, particularly on ales.

This makes me a bit paranoid, so now I use the tape the thermowell to the side of the vessel and cover it with an insulator and more tape for the initial cooling of the freezer/vessel. Once I get down to the set point I move the probe to the thermowell that has been in place the whole time.

Of course if I have multiple beers that are slightly staggered in fermentation, this isn't a problem, except for the first beer that goes in. Which is just another excuse to continually brew.

 

[LandoLincoln]

Of course if I have multiple beers that are slightly staggered in fermentation, this isn't a problem, except for the first beer that goes in. Which is just another excuse to continually brew.

If you have beers that are staggered in fermentation, then it's best to just read the ambient air temps around both batches to try to keep them both at the same temps, and know that the beer is going to get about 5 degrees warmer than ambient air temps. So if you'd like your beers to be fermenting at around 65°, then set the temp controller to keep the air at 60°. Your compressor will kick on more frequently, but more importantly, both batches of beer will be at the appropriate temps.

 

[kevinb]

I am just getting ready to wire one of these. I noticed in previous posts that the controller relays are rated to 20 Amps. The paperwork that I got with mine says only 8 amps if both relays are running at the same time or 16 Amps if they are not. Anyone know what the story is? It is not a big deal since the heater will not be running the same time as the freezer and neither draws 16 amps, just curious.

 

[grimstuff]

I am just getting ready to wire one of these. I noticed in previous posts that the controller relays are rated to 20 Amps. The paperwork that I got with mine says only 8 amps if both relays are running at the same time or 16 Amps if they are not. Anyone know what the story is? It is not a big deal since the heater will not be running the same time as the freezer and neither draws 16 amps, just curious.

The only instance where you'd have both relays on is if for some reason cooling or heating on one relay does not keep the temperature in range and you've set the next cooling or heating relay to kick on behind the other one. Hypothetically possible, but not sure under which practical conditions it would be necessary.

For example, say I have one freezer inside a bigger freezer and both of them are hooked up to the controller, one on each relay. Say my beer is fermenting so uncontrollably it causes a nuclear reaction and the temperature skyrockets. Since I've set the first freezer to kick on at 66 degrees, and the second freezer at 72 degrees, both of them eventually turn on and somehow successfully manage to cool it down. Or they don't.

 

[CKreations]

Grabbed a file from another thread/user and made it (hopefully) a little more understandable. Seems to be working for me so far.

 

[LandoLincoln]

Nice drawing! Color coding the two screws gold would make it a little bit more newbie-proof.

 

[Tomcat0304]

Just thought I'd add my $0.02 here. If I can do this (with the help of the awesome HBT community!), anyone can!

Parts List:
1x Control Products TC-9102D-HV
2x Cord Grip 0.5"-0.625"x1.65" (Grainger part# 5D725)
2x Locknut (Grainger part# 5XC30)
1x Stainless Steel Wall Plate (Lowe's part# 156713)
2x 15A Common Back/Side Receptacle (outlet) (Lowe's part# 22375)
1x 50' 14/3 Outdoor Cord (Lowe's part# 242130)
1x Pack of Wire Nuts (Lowe's part# 47307)
1x Sleeving, 3/8", Expandable Braided, 10' (Grainger part# 2RMC7)
1x 8"x6"x3" Project Box (RadioShack part# 2701809)
1x Panel Mount Fuse Holder (RadioShack part# 27003640)
1x Pack of 10A Fast Blow Fuses (RadioShack part# 2701015)
~ You will also need a soldering iron, different colors of electric tape, and a multimeter

Pic 1: How the controller comes out of the box
Pic 2: Taking a look inside
Pic 3: Inside; locate the relays and familiarize yourself with them
Pic 4: Inside; be careful with the wires on the probe, I'm sure they are delicate
Pic 5: Used a Dremel to enlarge the hole for the wire grip to fit

 

[Tomcat0304]

Pic 6: Use the Dremel with a cutting disc to cut a hole for the receptacle(s) you will be using, and a drill with a bit for the fuse holder. They don't have to be pretty, they'll get covered in the end. I used 2 outlets for no great reason, I'll probably add a computer fan (or two). The outlet on the left is for the cooling stage and the one on the right is for the heating stage (which I have not needed to use yet). If I were to do it again, I would cut the holes in the lid, not the box itself...
Pic 7: Drilled guide holes to mount the receptacles. I think if you tried to do it without the pre drilled holes, the plastic project box would crack.
Pic 8: Test fit everything to make sure it fits, and looks good.
Pic 9: My notes on the included wiring diagram. Since I was going to have 5' between the project box and the controller, I used the colored electric tape to keep track of the wires.
Pic 10: Starting from the left you have the common white wire, black with red tape, black with green tape, black with yellow tape, black with blue tape, and black with white tape.

 

[Tomcat0304]

(Not shown) Using the wires from the inside of the electric cord that was purchased, cut half way (25') through the cord. Set the male plug end aside, you will use all 25' of it. With the female end, remove the female end of the plug, and cut the remaining length into 5' lengths. Strip the outer casing, so you can get to the 3 wires inside, and set them aside. With the soldering iron, tin one end of the 5 black lengths of wire, and one white wire. Label the black wires with the colored tape at both ends. Also, use a punch to punch out the hole next to the main hole for the probe (There is also one on the side that you may use if you wish)

Pic 11: After tinning all the wires, insert the tinned end into the appropriate relay point on the controller. Wrap the loose ends together in electric tape to slide them through the braided tubing easier.

(Not shown) Strip about 1' on the male side of the length of electric cord, so you can get to the wires inside. Solder the black wire from the power cord to one end of the fuse holder. Solder another length of black wire to the other end. I had to install the fuse holder, then solder the wires to it.

Inside one wire nut, wire together the black wire from the power cord (fuse holder), the black wire with red tape, the black wire with green tape, and the black wire with blue tape. With the other two black wires from the controller, wire them to the appropriate outlets. My black and yellow goes to the outlet on the left, and the black and white goes to the outlet on the right.

Using the other 5' lengths of wire that came with the black 5' lengths, cut 2 - 1' lengths of white and black wire.

In another nut, wire together the white wire wire from the controller, the white wire from the power cord, and 2 - 1' lengths. Connect one loose end to each of the outlets.

In another wire nut, wire together the green from the power cord, and 2 - 1' lengths. Connect one loose end to each of the outlets.

Pic 12: All wired up inside the project box. Use the multimeter to test all your connections before plugging in.
Pic 13: It's working!
Pic 14: I used 3M Command strips to hang the controller and project box on the outside of the freezer (fermentation chamber)
Pic 15: Been holding a steady temp for 3 weeks now!

I hope this helped and wasn't more confusing!

 

[kevinb]

Looks good. I also got mine complete.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/tc-9102d-fermenter-build-428510/

 

[kevinb]

The only instance where you'd have both relays on is if for some reason cooling or heating on one relay does not keep the temperature in range and you've set the next cooling or heating relay to kick on behind the other one. Hypothetically possible, but not sure under which practical conditions it would be necessary.

For example, say I have one freezer inside a bigger freezer and both of them are hooked up to the controller, one on each relay. Say my beer is fermenting so uncontrollably it causes a nuclear reaction and the temperature skyrockets. Since I've set the first freezer to kick on at 66 degrees, and the second freezer at 72 degrees, both of them eventually turn on and somehow successfully manage to cool it down. Or they don't.

I emailed Emerson and got the "official" answer.

"The relays with the unit are 30A relays. UL though has listed this controller to a max rating of 20A through the relay. In the additional wiring diagram, this assumes the user will be jumpering over power to the controller from the power input side of the controller. It is assumed that the user will be using 110V power from a 15A circuit. If you do this, the maximum power you could ever achieve through the relay would be about 12A (80% of the input 15A current – per UL requirements). If you have a dual stage controller, as you do, UL requires us to tell you that the max rating is half the potential output current if wired in this fashion – 6A per side (we allow for up to 8A because of some calculation flexibility). If you are not going to be jumpering power from the power input side like the accessory wiring diagram indicates, you can bring separate power and current up to 20A through the relay contacts. 30A would be possible as well, but it would not conform to the UL specs that the controller was approved to."

 

[HItransplant]

Thanks to all who contributed...very helpful.