I recently received my IceMaster Max 4 glycol chiller. I upgraded from an older Ss Brewtech 1/5hp chiller for lots of reasons - not the least of which was the reservoir size, pre-installed pumps, higher HP, and the possibility of cleaning up a number of electrical cords from my brew space by utilizing the integrated temp controllers.
Morebeer is selling these chillers under the BrewBuilt name, but these bad boys are made by Kegland from Australia. In fact, the IceMaster Max 2 sold by Morebeer is the exact same product as the Kegland G20 - and the Max 4 is simply a larger version of the Max 2/G20.
The possibility that intrigued me more than anything about the Max 4 was the ability to use the dual-stage temp controllers to control both cooling and heating. Kegland has widely advertised this new feature, and they even have a video promoting it. However, when I look through any documentation on Morebeer's website, and all of the instructions that come with my chiller, nothing even remotely mentions this as a possibility.
The IceMaster Max 2 and Max 4 come with these 12v temp controllers from Kegland. As you can see, there are 12v relays installed for heating and cooling, and the manual from Kegland has a helpful section on how to wire this up. When you look at the back of the controller, you'll see several blades for power input. From what I can tell on my controllers, the blades are utilized as follows:
X1 - DC Negative
X2 - DC Positive to Cooling Relay
X3 - DC Positive from Cooling Relay
X4 - DC Positive to Heating Relay
X5 - DC Positive from Heating Relay
The X2 and X3 blades for cooling and the X4 and X5 blades for heating work like a light switch - you run your positive line through the relay/switch. When the relay is open, the circuit is interrupted and the light turns off. In this case, when the relay is open, current does not flow from X2 to X3 - or from X4 to X5. When the relay/switch is closed, the current flows and the pump or heater turns on.
This matches up with what's in my chiller - black wires are negative, red wires are positive. My system has daisy-chained the positive and negative to each successive controller (there are four total), which is why X1 and X2 have multiple wires on the blades.
The next thing we need to figure out is what our power requirements are. The IceMaster systems use a brushless 12v submersible pump - similar to the FTSs pumps - they don't draw more than about 1 amp each. The controllers themselves draw nearly nothing. I plan to use my Ss Brewtech 12v Silicone Heaters for my conical unitanks. Those draw about 5 amps each (12v x 60W). So, since the system is either heating or cooling, the max power draw will be 20-24amps - and adding the extra 20% for code, that'll be around 28amps needed.
Unfortunately, the IceMaster Max 4 has a AC/DC power converter that only pumps out 12v with 6.7amps. That's not going to be enough. The IceMaster Max 2 has a similar problem, with the AC/DC converter only supplying 2.5amps. Either way, we need more amperage to make this work.
Thankfully, AC/DC power converters are inexpensive - This 12v 30amp converter from Amazon is only $20. That'll be perfect.
Additionally, the FTSs pumps and heaters use a barrel connector size 5.5x2.1mm - I grabbed a pack of these from Amazon that will work well for running power connection outside of the box.
Lastly, we need some waterproof female spade connectors for 16-18awg wire, some butt connectors, and some additional 18awg wire in red and black.
Step 1: Remove the outer casing next to the power supply. This will allow you to access the power converter and run a new circuit of wire for the heaters.
Step 2: Disconnect the old/original power supply from the cooling pumps (RED AND BLACK wires), and from the main power (BROWN and BLUE wires) and remove it (it's attached by two tiny screws that you have to access from the inside of the panel it's connected to. I didn't take a pic of this step, but the power supply is connected to a small black box that protects the glycol temp controller and power switch. You have to unscrew the black box (two screws on the front of the case). Once removed, you'll see the two screws that hold on the original power supply)
Step 3: With the original power supply removed, connect the new power supply to the BROWN and BLUE wires - on my system, the BROWN wire was connected to L and the BLUE wire was connected to N. You'll note that the old power supply was not connected to GROUND... I recommend adding a wire to the GROUND connection on the power supply, and screwing it to the other ground wires that are attached to the case. It's just a good idea.
Step 4: At this point, before going too much further I plugged the IceMaster in and powered it up. I tested the voltage with a voltmeter to make sure that I was getting 12v on each of the connections (there are 3 available circuits). Everything worked. So, I turned off the IceMaster, unplugged it, and reattached the cooling pump circuits (original RED wire to the POSITIVE and original BLACK wire to the NEGATIVE). I plugged in the IceMaster, turned it on, and verified that the cooling pumps work. (If I'm going to void the warranty on this thing, I want to make sure it works before moving forward)
Step 5: Run a line of 18awg BLACK and RED from the bottom compartment (where the converter lives) to the top compartment (where the temp controllers live). I gave myself about 18-24" of wire, just to make sure I had enough slack to make changes.
Step 6: Cut four pieces of RED wire long enough to reach every controller - about 12". These will be pigtails to run to each of the controllers. After stripping about 1/2" of bare copper on each end of the pigtails, connect four pigtails to the RED line with a wire nut. You should have 5 wires connected here.
Step 7: Attach a female spade connector to the remaining end of each pigtail. Plug each of these spade connectors to the X4 blades on each controller.
Step 8: Find an appropriate place to drill 4 holes into the upper compartment of the exterior casing of your chiller. This will be for our barrel connectors. Once you've drilled these holes insert your barrel connectors and secure them. Pro tip: I thought it would be a good idea to drill my holes on the back of my unit. It looks great, wires about be out of the way, etc... BUT, if you do this on the Max 4, you will block the access to the glycol tank... don't do that. I already did, I'm committed, but I wish I hadn't. Oh well... it looks good, at least.
CONTINUED in next post...
Morebeer is selling these chillers under the BrewBuilt name, but these bad boys are made by Kegland from Australia. In fact, the IceMaster Max 2 sold by Morebeer is the exact same product as the Kegland G20 - and the Max 4 is simply a larger version of the Max 2/G20.
The possibility that intrigued me more than anything about the Max 4 was the ability to use the dual-stage temp controllers to control both cooling and heating. Kegland has widely advertised this new feature, and they even have a video promoting it. However, when I look through any documentation on Morebeer's website, and all of the instructions that come with my chiller, nothing even remotely mentions this as a possibility.
The IceMaster Max 2 and Max 4 come with these 12v temp controllers from Kegland. As you can see, there are 12v relays installed for heating and cooling, and the manual from Kegland has a helpful section on how to wire this up. When you look at the back of the controller, you'll see several blades for power input. From what I can tell on my controllers, the blades are utilized as follows:
X1 - DC Negative
X2 - DC Positive to Cooling Relay
X3 - DC Positive from Cooling Relay
X4 - DC Positive to Heating Relay
X5 - DC Positive from Heating Relay
The X2 and X3 blades for cooling and the X4 and X5 blades for heating work like a light switch - you run your positive line through the relay/switch. When the relay is open, the circuit is interrupted and the light turns off. In this case, when the relay is open, current does not flow from X2 to X3 - or from X4 to X5. When the relay/switch is closed, the current flows and the pump or heater turns on.

This matches up with what's in my chiller - black wires are negative, red wires are positive. My system has daisy-chained the positive and negative to each successive controller (there are four total), which is why X1 and X2 have multiple wires on the blades.

The next thing we need to figure out is what our power requirements are. The IceMaster systems use a brushless 12v submersible pump - similar to the FTSs pumps - they don't draw more than about 1 amp each. The controllers themselves draw nearly nothing. I plan to use my Ss Brewtech 12v Silicone Heaters for my conical unitanks. Those draw about 5 amps each (12v x 60W). So, since the system is either heating or cooling, the max power draw will be 20-24amps - and adding the extra 20% for code, that'll be around 28amps needed.
Unfortunately, the IceMaster Max 4 has a AC/DC power converter that only pumps out 12v with 6.7amps. That's not going to be enough. The IceMaster Max 2 has a similar problem, with the AC/DC converter only supplying 2.5amps. Either way, we need more amperage to make this work.

Thankfully, AC/DC power converters are inexpensive - This 12v 30amp converter from Amazon is only $20. That'll be perfect.

Additionally, the FTSs pumps and heaters use a barrel connector size 5.5x2.1mm - I grabbed a pack of these from Amazon that will work well for running power connection outside of the box.
Lastly, we need some waterproof female spade connectors for 16-18awg wire, some butt connectors, and some additional 18awg wire in red and black.
Step 1: Remove the outer casing next to the power supply. This will allow you to access the power converter and run a new circuit of wire for the heaters.

Step 2: Disconnect the old/original power supply from the cooling pumps (RED AND BLACK wires), and from the main power (BROWN and BLUE wires) and remove it (it's attached by two tiny screws that you have to access from the inside of the panel it's connected to. I didn't take a pic of this step, but the power supply is connected to a small black box that protects the glycol temp controller and power switch. You have to unscrew the black box (two screws on the front of the case). Once removed, you'll see the two screws that hold on the original power supply)
Step 3: With the original power supply removed, connect the new power supply to the BROWN and BLUE wires - on my system, the BROWN wire was connected to L and the BLUE wire was connected to N. You'll note that the old power supply was not connected to GROUND... I recommend adding a wire to the GROUND connection on the power supply, and screwing it to the other ground wires that are attached to the case. It's just a good idea.

Step 4: At this point, before going too much further I plugged the IceMaster in and powered it up. I tested the voltage with a voltmeter to make sure that I was getting 12v on each of the connections (there are 3 available circuits). Everything worked. So, I turned off the IceMaster, unplugged it, and reattached the cooling pump circuits (original RED wire to the POSITIVE and original BLACK wire to the NEGATIVE). I plugged in the IceMaster, turned it on, and verified that the cooling pumps work. (If I'm going to void the warranty on this thing, I want to make sure it works before moving forward)
Step 5: Run a line of 18awg BLACK and RED from the bottom compartment (where the converter lives) to the top compartment (where the temp controllers live). I gave myself about 18-24" of wire, just to make sure I had enough slack to make changes.

Step 6: Cut four pieces of RED wire long enough to reach every controller - about 12". These will be pigtails to run to each of the controllers. After stripping about 1/2" of bare copper on each end of the pigtails, connect four pigtails to the RED line with a wire nut. You should have 5 wires connected here.

Step 7: Attach a female spade connector to the remaining end of each pigtail. Plug each of these spade connectors to the X4 blades on each controller.

Step 8: Find an appropriate place to drill 4 holes into the upper compartment of the exterior casing of your chiller. This will be for our barrel connectors. Once you've drilled these holes insert your barrel connectors and secure them. Pro tip: I thought it would be a good idea to drill my holes on the back of my unit. It looks great, wires about be out of the way, etc... BUT, if you do this on the Max 4, you will block the access to the glycol tank... don't do that. I already did, I'm committed, but I wish I hadn't. Oh well... it looks good, at least.

CONTINUED in next post...