- Joined
- Feb 29, 2016
- Messages
- 502
- Reaction score
- 316
From what Tim says in the video run it full bore till boil is achieved then back off to avoid crazy boil off rates.
Colorado brewing systems
- Thread starter shortsnout
- Start date
Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:
You can do it any way you want , With my system I switch to boil at 80% and lower to 70 once a boil is achieved which works perfect . I dont need to run at 100% so I dont , once you have your system you will get a feel for how it runs and be able to adjust accordingly.
jeffmeh
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2009
- Messages
- 2,145
- Reaction score
- 216
Another way to do it with a PID is to set the temp to, say, 208F, then walk away until the alarm sounds with no fear of a boilover. Then switch to manual 100% and watch until boil, then back off to whatever % you need for the desired boil off rate.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Makes me more wishing I could order mine today. By the time I am ready they will be on version 4.0 
I don't think mine will have that but I wasn't planning on it. But it might be useful for me if I used dryer vent tubing on rainy days where I couldn't keep the garage door open.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Yeah my post about loosening a TC to rotate it out of the way may not be correct, but it's something like that I assume. I plan to brew in the basement so I need a vent. For garage brewing I see no reason to use a vent or the expense of something like this. Just crack the garage door and you will be fine in the colder months....wait you are in Texas, you don't have cold months or basements 
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I just pulled the trigger and bought their new nano brewer home system. I looked at other systems for months and I've brewed on the GF and Blichmann systems at work (perks of working at a homebrew store). I can't wait for it to come in and i'll be posting pics as soon as I can.
Anyone have a BeerSmith profile for the 20g system?
rhlvegas,
did you find any info on beersmith equipment profiles for the CBS 20g setup?
did you find any info on beersmith equipment profiles for the CBS 20g setup?
Hommel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2014
- Messages
- 77
- Reaction score
- 15
i bought the 15g system and have been very happy with it. i did write up on it with a video of a brew day here:
http://www.hommelhomebrew.com/?p=324
http://www.hommelhomebrew.com/?p=324
I'd start with the one for the Brew Boss.
Tim is great to work with over at CBS.
Helped me plan my eBrew system.
Now all I need is time to brew!!
TD
Helped me plan my eBrew system.
Now all I need is time to brew!!
TD
No, not yet. Still refining a custom profile.
I'm trying to decide between this system and the Blichmann BrewEasy. What's your opinion on the two since you've brewed on both? Which do you prefer, would you still go with the nano system?
I stumbled on this thread while window shopping electric systems. I'm interested in finding something that will let me continue to do my normal AG 5 gal batches, while expanding to 10 gal once in a while... with the better temperature control and efficiency of electric. The one-vessel simplicity of the CBS rig is pretty appealing. Brew Boss looks similar. Are there any other rigs I should look at?
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
BrewBoss ($$), COBrewing ($$), Spidel BrewMeister (much $$$), Brau Supply UniBrau (less $), GrainFather ($) or, make your own.
my 2 cents:
I just started using a custom system very similar to this custom HW / brewboss hybrid, but any controller would work: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=573718
Making your own system based on the UniBrau is the cheapest option, and will still be very handy and usable.
The COBrewing system is nice if you have some cash to burn and don't want to spend a lot of time messing around with custom perfect ultimate build theory.
mcgimpkins
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2014
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 56
Looking into getting a solid sided basket made from Colorado Brewing Systems and I have a couple of questions for everyone:
1. What do you guys mill your grains at? According to their website: "Although our systems utilize a single vessel design, this is not a Brew in a bag process. Due to our constant recirculation, it is recommended that you do not mill your grains finer than an 0.45 mill gap setting." I have no idea what 0.45 mill gap setting, is that 0.45mm, 0.045", or some other measurement I am unaware of.
2. In addition the same website states: When brewing with Oats, unmalted barley, wheat or other undermodified grains it is important to do a Beta-glucan rest between 104 and 120 degrees for approximately 20 minutes to break down the enzymes. Failure to rest at this temperature will cause the undermodified grains to become gummy and may lead to a clogged screen. Do you guys do a Beta-glucan rest? If so do you find that you have to do a Beta-glucan rest all the time only or only on beers that might be "gummy"?
3. What do you guys find is the correct throttle of the pump so that you are not exposing the element but still getting a good recirculation? 1/2? 1/3? 1/4?
1. What do you guys mill your grains at? According to their website: "Although our systems utilize a single vessel design, this is not a Brew in a bag process. Due to our constant recirculation, it is recommended that you do not mill your grains finer than an 0.45 mill gap setting." I have no idea what 0.45 mill gap setting, is that 0.45mm, 0.045", or some other measurement I am unaware of.
2. In addition the same website states: When brewing with Oats, unmalted barley, wheat or other undermodified grains it is important to do a Beta-glucan rest between 104 and 120 degrees for approximately 20 minutes to break down the enzymes. Failure to rest at this temperature will cause the undermodified grains to become gummy and may lead to a clogged screen. Do you guys do a Beta-glucan rest? If so do you find that you have to do a Beta-glucan rest all the time only or only on beers that might be "gummy"?
3. What do you guys find is the correct throttle of the pump so that you are not exposing the element but still getting a good recirculation? 1/2? 1/3? 1/4?
I actually made a system similar to this years ago before it even came out and I can answer a few questions,
1. 0.45 mill gap is a feeler gage gap to adjust your mill to crush your grain, this is important to prevent a stuck recirculation
2. yes a good rest is important, nothing worse than brewing with glue, you can also use rice hulls and throttle way back to 1/4 open for 20 minutes
3. 50% is what i have always used without rice hulls 75% with
1. 0.45 mill gap is a feeler gage gap to adjust your mill to crush your grain, this is important to prevent a stuck recirculation
2. yes a good rest is important, nothing worse than brewing with glue, you can also use rice hulls and throttle way back to 1/4 open for 20 minutes
3. 50% is what i have always used without rice hulls 75% with
mcgimpkins
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2014
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 56
Thanks for the fast response Ozarks, can you please elaborate on 1? I currently have a mm feeler gauge for my mill, and my mill is currently set to 1mm or 0.039". What is the measurement in mm for a 0.45 mill gap?
mine is set to .584 and .559 mm together equaling 1.143 or .023 and .022 together equaling .045 both equal the same, the crush looks big but it works and you can always mash longer or run half through twice
I have the Colorado mash tun and screen. I can run the pumps wide open no problem. I believe the large volume beneath the mash screen is what enables this.
Regarding the beta glucan rest. This is probably a good idea when you are brewing with adjuncts such as oats. Rolled oats and other adjuncts gelatinized from the rolling process, and do not require a cereal mash. You can probably add them safely in small amounts without further modifications. While true that the protein called beta glucan is present in oatmeal in high proportions I suppose (don't really know to be honest, but have read that stuff too), you could add a rest at the temp where the glucanase enzyme is active to split that protein into smaller components to prevent the gummieness. If you're using a water to grain ration of 1.5 or higher, and a small amount of oats or other adjuncts are used 5-10% I would bet that you'll be fine to just throw it in with the rest of the grist without issue, if it bothers you, add some rice hulls which acts sort of like fiber in the mlt to keep things flowing.
As far as mill gaps, I thInk you are covered. My mill is non adjustable, and whenever I use wheat I buy milled and store in freezer. The concept is that each type of grain has different sized husks/kernels and the gap needs to sized appropriately so they will crush properly. Obviously smaller kernels need smaller gaps.
Good luck
Regarding the beta glucan rest. This is probably a good idea when you are brewing with adjuncts such as oats. Rolled oats and other adjuncts gelatinized from the rolling process, and do not require a cereal mash. You can probably add them safely in small amounts without further modifications. While true that the protein called beta glucan is present in oatmeal in high proportions I suppose (don't really know to be honest, but have read that stuff too), you could add a rest at the temp where the glucanase enzyme is active to split that protein into smaller components to prevent the gummieness. If you're using a water to grain ration of 1.5 or higher, and a small amount of oats or other adjuncts are used 5-10% I would bet that you'll be fine to just throw it in with the rest of the grist without issue, if it bothers you, add some rice hulls which acts sort of like fiber in the mlt to keep things flowing.
As far as mill gaps, I thInk you are covered. My mill is non adjustable, and whenever I use wheat I buy milled and store in freezer. The concept is that each type of grain has different sized husks/kernels and the gap needs to sized appropriately so they will crush properly. Obviously smaller kernels need smaller gaps.
Good luck
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
For those who do end up scorching their element while learning the system (like me), I found that scrubbing it with 130F PBW didn't clean it, soaking in 70F PBW for a week didn't do it, but about 20 minutes! of soak/scrub with Oxalic Acid and a scotchbrite pad got it looking fairly good again. That's liquid barkeep's friend, which recommends no more than 1 minute of soak/contact time for stainless steel cleaning.
I'm hoping they only put that warning there for low grade stainless, and that the high quality SS 304, 316, or incoloy elements can take it....
I'm hoping they only put that warning there for low grade stainless, and that the high quality SS 304, 316, or incoloy elements can take it....
How did you scorch your element? I thought you could fire it up to 100% to boil wort without a care... low power density or whatever.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
So this might be a silly question, but I was cleaning this morning and my element turned on and heated up no problem I go to mash and the element wouldn't come on. I unplugged it to check connections but nothing was loose. Any suggestions?
.045" is what I have mine set at. I usually run my pump around 1/2 depending on how everything is flowing. I have not used rice hulls yet but I think I will in the future so I can recirculate a little faster, it seems the better it circulates the closer the temp between the sensor and grain bed will be.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
crushing too fine, leading to a "stuck recirculating BIAB" and the element became partially out of the wort while heating.
Assisted by the fact that my well-known-name custom kettle maker incorrectly made my temperature probe and element ports higher than specified, which increases the chance of an exposed element if my recirculation sticks. I'm rather annoyed at their lack of a promised response after I called them about it. (not CO Brew systems, I made a custom similar system.)
In all likelyhood a coarser crush, rest, and slower recirculation will prevent the issue.
Thank you, that makes sense.
oven cleaner works too, spray on the element, fire the element for 10 seconds, clean with a scrubbing pad, every thing comes off with little effort
the downside, getting the cleaner off, spray rinse , spray rinse
Hommel
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 19, 2014
- Messages
- 77
- Reaction score
- 15
<Hommel> I can run my pump wide open without issue but I'm using their standard basket. I can see how this would be an issue with solid walls. with the normal basket the liquid can run out the side and down preventing cavitation but with solid sides it would be a lot easier to cavitate and fry your element. You could get an idea that this is happening if the liquid on the sides go below the liquid in the basket i guess? why do you want solid sides? if it is for wort clarity i can tell you my clarity by the time the beer goes to the keg is the same as when i did batch sparging in a 3 vessel setup. wort into fermenter is a bit hazy but the final product is the same so not sure the risk of cavitation and fried element is worth it. then again i gelatin the beers i care about clarity on so that could be the difference.
</Hommel>
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
So. This happened. Apparently the SSR melted. Yeah when we opened the panel, the bits that had melted fell out. Tim was great and they are going to replace the panel. I'm sending it out tomorrow.
mcgimpkins
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Feb 23, 2014
- Messages
- 201
- Reaction score
- 56
Hey Hommel, I watched your youtube review on the Colorado Brewing Systems 15 Gallon eBIAB.
I actually have a smaller eBIAB system with a mesh basket. I am looking into upgrading to a 20 gallon eBIAB. While looking though the systems and options that people have built and brewing hardware shops sell, these two videos caught my eye.
I really like that the solid sided baskets as Tim puts it, "it makes sure the liquid has to go though the grain bed as opposed to going outside the basket." In addition I like how it keeps an active stirring of the grains going on inside the basket, all of which help efficiency. In addition in the second video (go to 4:21) Tim goes over the different ways you can sparge or not sparge with the system. Finally unlike most other BIAB recirculating systems, you are using a tube over a sparge arm so that you do not have to worry about your sparge arm getting clogged with grains.
I asked the question about it because I want feedback on other people that have bought the system and used the hard-sided baskets to see how they liked them and if they've had problems with them burning their wort/element.
I actually have a smaller eBIAB system with a mesh basket. I am looking into upgrading to a 20 gallon eBIAB. While looking though the systems and options that people have built and brewing hardware shops sell, these two videos caught my eye.
I really like that the solid sided baskets as Tim puts it, "it makes sure the liquid has to go though the grain bed as opposed to going outside the basket." In addition I like how it keeps an active stirring of the grains going on inside the basket, all of which help efficiency. In addition in the second video (go to 4:21) Tim goes over the different ways you can sparge or not sparge with the system. Finally unlike most other BIAB recirculating systems, you are using a tube over a sparge arm so that you do not have to worry about your sparge arm getting clogged with grains.
I asked the question about it because I want feedback on other people that have bought the system and used the hard-sided baskets to see how they liked them and if they've had problems with them burning their wort/element.
Last edited by a moderator:
Ouch. That stinks. Talk about a bad start to a brew day.
I've finally made up my mind and am going to be ordering this system in the next few days. I'm just confused on what I need in order to get electric hooked up to it, hopefully someone can help. I just had a new house built and had the builder put in a 240 outlet in the 3rd bay of my garage. The only problem is it's not a gfci outlet. My thought was I could buy a cord with inline gfci like this:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/trc/gfci-extension-cords.html
However my outlet is a 4 prong outlet and I can't tell if this one is? Is the cord that the systems comes with a 3 or 4 prong cord. Do they make adaptors to covert from 3 to 4? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
http://www.cableorganizer.com/trc/gfci-extension-cords.html
However my outlet is a 4 prong outlet and I can't tell if this one is? Is the cord that the systems comes with a 3 or 4 prong cord. Do they make adaptors to covert from 3 to 4? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
Rivenin
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 13, 2010
- Messages
- 3,258
- Reaction score
- 342
I think you need a 4-wire 30A outlet, and you can do GFCI either at the outlet or via the breaker.
I just had my outlet and GFCI breaker installed last week. So I guess I am kind of committed to an order now!
I just had my outlet and GFCI breaker installed last week. So I guess I am kind of committed to an order now!
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
http://www.nssltd.com/
They make the industrial size inline GFCIs for all Amperages and outlet types. You're going to need at least 30Amp. Amazon carries some of the product line also. If you look around you can get them as cheep as 150.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I just ordered a Nano Home as well. I chose the 20 gallon version, with whirlpool port and even the new touchpad. I'm going to need to relax and drink a homebrew to forget about the price tag.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I'm now thinking of getting the SSbrewtech fermenters and then some time next year upgrading to 20 gallon nano w touchscreen. That price tag is a little too hefty for me at the moment. Nice thing is that i'll have no trouble selling this 10gal system.
Similar threads
