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Colorado brewing systems

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I'm contemplating buying a colorado brew system vs the grainfather. Anyone have opinions on the pros/cons of each choice?


I went through the same thing ended up biting the bullet I am sure the grainfather is great but the 240v vs. 120 sold me.
 
As someone who is building his 3rd system. 5 gallon the 10 gallon now going 1 bbl. The GF may be great but you should be sure you're gonna be OK making that size batches going forward. My advice is if you have the means buy the biggest you ever think you may want and save the time and money of doing it again in the future.
 
One nice thing about elec brew Riga espec is how well they hold value. No point in going larger on a what if my opinion, but I do think the co brews are better deal than gf
 
Totally off topic here but I have a question. I'm just about to use my new electric system with a 5500 watt element. When I'm done with the mash do I just crank it full bore? No need to stir just let it get to boil?
 
Totally off topic here but I have a question. I'm just about to use my new electric system with a 5500 watt element. When I'm done with the mash do I just crank it full bore? No need to stir just let it get to boil?

After the mash you set the controller to a percentage of its maximum power for the boil . I usually start at 80% and back off to around 70% once its started boiling . Hope this helps
 
After the mash you set the controller to a percentage of its maximum power for the boil . I usually start at 80% and back off to around 70% once its started boiling . Hope this helps

Why don't you crank it to 100 and then back off?
 
From what Tim says in the video run it full bore till boil is achieved then back off to avoid crazy boil off rates.
 
Right but I'm all about speed when brewing. Would it hurt to crank to 100% without stirring?

You can do it any way you want , With my system I switch to boil at 80% and lower to 70 once a boil is achieved which works perfect . I dont need to run at 100% so I dont , once you have your system you will get a feel for how it runs and be able to adjust accordingly.
 
Another way to do it with a PID is to set the temp to, say, 208F, then walk away until the alarm sounds with no fear of a boilover. Then switch to manual 100% and watch until boil, then back off to whatever % you need for the desired boil off rate.
 
:tank: Makes me more wishing I could order mine today. By the time I am ready they will be on version 4.0 :mug:

COBREW.JPG
 
:tank: Makes me more wishing I could order mine today. By the time I am ready they will be on version 4.0 :mug:

I don't think mine will have that but I wasn't planning on it. But it might be useful for me if I used dryer vent tubing on rainy days where I couldn't keep the garage door open.
 
Yeah my post about loosening a TC to rotate it out of the way may not be correct, but it's something like that I assume. I plan to brew in the basement so I need a vent. For garage brewing I see no reason to use a vent or the expense of something like this. Just crack the garage door and you will be fine in the colder months....wait you are in Texas, you don't have cold months or basements :p
 
I just pulled the trigger and bought their new nano brewer home system. I looked at other systems for months and I've brewed on the GF and Blichmann systems at work (perks of working at a homebrew store). I can't wait for it to come in and i'll be posting pics as soon as I can.
 
I'm also very interested in a beer smith profile for a 15 gallon system if anybody has one?
 
I just pulled the trigger and bought their new nano brewer home system. I looked at other systems for months and I've brewed on the GF and Blichmann systems at work (perks of working at a homebrew store). I can't wait for it to come in and i'll be posting pics as soon as I can.

I'm trying to decide between this system and the Blichmann BrewEasy. What's your opinion on the two since you've brewed on both? Which do you prefer, would you still go with the nano system?
 
I stumbled on this thread while window shopping electric systems. I'm interested in finding something that will let me continue to do my normal AG 5 gal batches, while expanding to 10 gal once in a while... with the better temperature control and efficiency of electric. The one-vessel simplicity of the CBS rig is pretty appealing. Brew Boss looks similar. Are there any other rigs I should look at?
 
I stumbled on this thread while window shopping electric systems. I'm interested in finding something that will let me continue to do my normal AG 5 gal batches, while expanding to 10 gal once in a while... with the better temperature control and efficiency of electric. The one-vessel simplicity of the CBS rig is pretty appealing. Brew Boss looks similar. Are there any other rigs I should look at?

BrewBoss ($$), COBrewing ($$), Spidel BrewMeister (much $$$), Brau Supply UniBrau (less $), GrainFather ($) or, make your own.

my 2 cents:
I just started using a custom system very similar to this custom HW / brewboss hybrid, but any controller would work: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=573718

Making your own system based on the UniBrau is the cheapest option, and will still be very handy and usable.

The COBrewing system is nice if you have some cash to burn and don't want to spend a lot of time messing around with custom perfect ultimate build theory.
 
Looking into getting a solid sided basket made from Colorado Brewing Systems and I have a couple of questions for everyone:

1. What do you guys mill your grains at? According to their website: "Although our systems utilize a single vessel design, this is not a “Brew in a bag” process. Due to our constant recirculation, it is recommended that you do not mill your grains finer than an 0.45 mill gap setting." I have no idea what 0.45 mill gap setting, is that 0.45mm, 0.045", or some other measurement I am unaware of.

2. In addition the same website states: When brewing with Oats, unmalted barley, wheat or other undermodified grains it is important to do a Beta-glucan rest between 104 and 120 degrees for approximately 20 minutes to break down the enzymes. Failure to rest at this temperature will cause the undermodified grains to become gummy and may lead to a clogged screen. Do you guys do a Beta-glucan rest? If so do you find that you have to do a Beta-glucan rest all the time only or only on beers that might be "gummy"?

3. What do you guys find is the correct throttle of the pump so that you are not exposing the element but still getting a good recirculation? 1/2? 1/3? 1/4?
 
I actually made a system similar to this years ago before it even came out and I can answer a few questions,
1. 0.45 mill gap is a feeler gage gap to adjust your mill to crush your grain, this is important to prevent a stuck recirculation
2. yes a good rest is important, nothing worse than brewing with glue, you can also use rice hulls and throttle way back to 1/4 open for 20 minutes
3. 50% is what i have always used without rice hulls 75% with
 
I actually made a system similar to this years ago before it even came out and I can answer a few questions,
1. 0.45 mill gap is a feeler gage gap to adjust your mill to crush your grain, this is important to prevent a stuck recirculation
2. yes a good rest is important, nothing worse than brewing with glue, you can also use rice hulls and throttle way back to 1/4 open for 20 minutes
3. 50% is what i have always used without rice hulls 75% with

Thanks for the fast response Ozarks, can you please elaborate on 1? I currently have a mm feeler gauge for my mill, and my mill is currently set to 1mm or 0.039". What is the measurement in mm for a 0.45 mill gap?
 
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