mine is set to .584 and .559 mm together equaling 1.143 or .023 and .022 together equaling .045 both equal the same, the crush looks big but it works and you can always mash longer or run half through twice
Colorado brewing systems
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mine is set to .584 and .559 mm together equaling 1.143 or .023 and .022 together equaling .045 both equal the same, the crush looks big but it works and you can always mash longer or run half through twice
I have the Colorado mash tun and screen. I can run the pumps wide open no problem. I believe the large volume beneath the mash screen is what enables this.
Regarding the beta glucan rest. This is probably a good idea when you are brewing with adjuncts such as oats. Rolled oats and other adjuncts gelatinized from the rolling process, and do not require a cereal mash. You can probably add them safely in small amounts without further modifications. While true that the protein called beta glucan is present in oatmeal in high proportions I suppose (don't really know to be honest, but have read that stuff too), you could add a rest at the temp where the glucanase enzyme is active to split that protein into smaller components to prevent the gummieness. If you're using a water to grain ration of 1.5 or higher, and a small amount of oats or other adjuncts are used 5-10% I would bet that you'll be fine to just throw it in with the rest of the grist without issue, if it bothers you, add some rice hulls which acts sort of like fiber in the mlt to keep things flowing.
As far as mill gaps, I thInk you are covered. My mill is non adjustable, and whenever I use wheat I buy milled and store in freezer. The concept is that each type of grain has different sized husks/kernels and the gap needs to sized appropriately so they will crush properly. Obviously smaller kernels need smaller gaps.
Good luck
Regarding the beta glucan rest. This is probably a good idea when you are brewing with adjuncts such as oats. Rolled oats and other adjuncts gelatinized from the rolling process, and do not require a cereal mash. You can probably add them safely in small amounts without further modifications. While true that the protein called beta glucan is present in oatmeal in high proportions I suppose (don't really know to be honest, but have read that stuff too), you could add a rest at the temp where the glucanase enzyme is active to split that protein into smaller components to prevent the gummieness. If you're using a water to grain ration of 1.5 or higher, and a small amount of oats or other adjuncts are used 5-10% I would bet that you'll be fine to just throw it in with the rest of the grist without issue, if it bothers you, add some rice hulls which acts sort of like fiber in the mlt to keep things flowing.
As far as mill gaps, I thInk you are covered. My mill is non adjustable, and whenever I use wheat I buy milled and store in freezer. The concept is that each type of grain has different sized husks/kernels and the gap needs to sized appropriately so they will crush properly. Obviously smaller kernels need smaller gaps.
Good luck
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
For those who do end up scorching their element while learning the system (like me), I found that scrubbing it with 130F PBW didn't clean it, soaking in 70F PBW for a week didn't do it, but about 20 minutes! of soak/scrub with Oxalic Acid and a scotchbrite pad got it looking fairly good again. That's liquid barkeep's friend, which recommends no more than 1 minute of soak/contact time for stainless steel cleaning.
I'm hoping they only put that warning there for low grade stainless, and that the high quality SS 304, 316, or incoloy elements can take it....
I'm hoping they only put that warning there for low grade stainless, and that the high quality SS 304, 316, or incoloy elements can take it....
How did you scorch your element? I thought you could fire it up to 100% to boil wort without a care... low power density or whatever.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
So this might be a silly question, but I was cleaning this morning and my element turned on and heated up no problem I go to mash and the element wouldn't come on. I unplugged it to check connections but nothing was loose. Any suggestions?
.045" is what I have mine set at. I usually run my pump around 1/2 depending on how everything is flowing. I have not used rice hulls yet but I think I will in the future so I can recirculate a little faster, it seems the better it circulates the closer the temp between the sensor and grain bed will be.
![Craft A Brew - Safale BE-256 Yeast - Fermentis - Belgian Ale Dry Yeast - For Belgian & Strong Ales - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [3 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51bcKEwQmWL._SL500_.jpg)
andrewmaixner
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crushing too fine, leading to a "stuck recirculating BIAB" and the element became partially out of the wort while heating.
Assisted by the fact that my well-known-name custom kettle maker incorrectly made my temperature probe and element ports higher than specified, which increases the chance of an exposed element if my recirculation sticks. I'm rather annoyed at their lack of a promised response after I called them about it. (not CO Brew systems, I made a custom similar system.)
In all likelyhood a coarser crush, rest, and slower recirculation will prevent the issue.
Thank you, that makes sense.
oven cleaner works too, spray on the element, fire the element for 10 seconds, clean with a scrubbing pad, every thing comes off with little effort
the downside, getting the cleaner off, spray rinse , spray rinse
Hommel
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<Hommel> I can run my pump wide open without issue but I'm using their standard basket. I can see how this would be an issue with solid walls. with the normal basket the liquid can run out the side and down preventing cavitation but with solid sides it would be a lot easier to cavitate and fry your element. You could get an idea that this is happening if the liquid on the sides go below the liquid in the basket i guess? why do you want solid sides? if it is for wort clarity i can tell you my clarity by the time the beer goes to the keg is the same as when i did batch sparging in a 3 vessel setup. wort into fermenter is a bit hazy but the final product is the same so not sure the risk of cavitation and fried element is worth it. then again i gelatin the beers i care about clarity on so that could be the difference.
</Hommel>
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
So. This happened. Apparently the SSR melted. Yeah when we opened the panel, the bits that had melted fell out. Tim was great and they are going to replace the panel. I'm sending it out tomorrow.
mcgimpkins
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Hey Hommel, I watched your youtube review on the Colorado Brewing Systems 15 Gallon eBIAB.
I actually have a smaller eBIAB system with a mesh basket. I am looking into upgrading to a 20 gallon eBIAB. While looking though the systems and options that people have built and brewing hardware shops sell, these two videos caught my eye.
I really like that the solid sided baskets as Tim puts it, "it makes sure the liquid has to go though the grain bed as opposed to going outside the basket." In addition I like how it keeps an active stirring of the grains going on inside the basket, all of which help efficiency. In addition in the second video (go to 4:21) Tim goes over the different ways you can sparge or not sparge with the system. Finally unlike most other BIAB recirculating systems, you are using a tube over a sparge arm so that you do not have to worry about your sparge arm getting clogged with grains.
I asked the question about it because I want feedback on other people that have bought the system and used the hard-sided baskets to see how they liked them and if they've had problems with them burning their wort/element.
I actually have a smaller eBIAB system with a mesh basket. I am looking into upgrading to a 20 gallon eBIAB. While looking though the systems and options that people have built and brewing hardware shops sell, these two videos caught my eye.
I really like that the solid sided baskets as Tim puts it, "it makes sure the liquid has to go though the grain bed as opposed to going outside the basket." In addition I like how it keeps an active stirring of the grains going on inside the basket, all of which help efficiency. In addition in the second video (go to 4:21) Tim goes over the different ways you can sparge or not sparge with the system. Finally unlike most other BIAB recirculating systems, you are using a tube over a sparge arm so that you do not have to worry about your sparge arm getting clogged with grains.
I asked the question about it because I want feedback on other people that have bought the system and used the hard-sided baskets to see how they liked them and if they've had problems with them burning their wort/element.
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Ouch. That stinks. Talk about a bad start to a brew day.
I've finally made up my mind and am going to be ordering this system in the next few days. I'm just confused on what I need in order to get electric hooked up to it, hopefully someone can help. I just had a new house built and had the builder put in a 240 outlet in the 3rd bay of my garage. The only problem is it's not a gfci outlet. My thought was I could buy a cord with inline gfci like this:
http://www.cableorganizer.com/trc/gfci-extension-cords.html
However my outlet is a 4 prong outlet and I can't tell if this one is? Is the cord that the systems comes with a 3 or 4 prong cord. Do they make adaptors to covert from 3 to 4? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
http://www.cableorganizer.com/trc/gfci-extension-cords.html
However my outlet is a 4 prong outlet and I can't tell if this one is? Is the cord that the systems comes with a 3 or 4 prong cord. Do they make adaptors to covert from 3 to 4? Thanks in advance for any help you guys can provide.
Rivenin
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I think you need a 4-wire 30A outlet, and you can do GFCI either at the outlet or via the breaker.
I just had my outlet and GFCI breaker installed last week. So I guess I am kind of committed to an order now!
I just had my outlet and GFCI breaker installed last week. So I guess I am kind of committed to an order now!
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
http://www.nssltd.com/
They make the industrial size inline GFCIs for all Amperages and outlet types. You're going to need at least 30Amp. Amazon carries some of the product line also. If you look around you can get them as cheep as 150.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I just ordered a Nano Home as well. I chose the 20 gallon version, with whirlpool port and even the new touchpad. I'm going to need to relax and drink a homebrew to forget about the price tag.
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
I'm now thinking of getting the SSbrewtech fermenters and then some time next year upgrading to 20 gallon nano w touchscreen. That price tag is a little too hefty for me at the moment. Nice thing is that i'll have no trouble selling this 10gal system.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Ordering my last bits of TC parts, get the GFCI wired and I will be doing a wet run to calibrate the temp probes (I am adding a probe to my CFC chiller) and it's ready to go.
Anyone have a solution to what I think is a janky setup for the recirc arm attachment. I hate that it just can't be tightened down well. I was hoping to use this for whirlpooling at flameout on the kettle as well. Otherwise I would just have it welded to the basket.
Anyone have a solution to what I think is a janky setup for the recirc arm attachment. I hate that it just can't be tightened down well. I was hoping to use this for whirlpooling at flameout on the kettle as well. Otherwise I would just have it welded to the basket.
I would like to know a solution as well. Mine keeps bending the fork out as I tighten it down. I have tried some jb weld in the corners in hopes to keep it from bending but that didn't work. I ending up using the pulley to keep the pressure off the fork so it won't bend back away from the kettle.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
There need to be a threaded boss in the basket and the kettle to hold it in place better. I'll figure something out over time and use
I was just getting ready to buy the system when I saw this. Is this a big deal? I don't want to spend all this money and this be a problem.
Hommel
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since i can't help but try new stuff, i just bought the new hardsided basket to replace my full mesh basket in my 15G system. it has the new sparge setup with the 2 x tri-clamp attachment and the short return tube. i did a double brew of two lagers and started at 7am and finished at 5:30pm not including clean up. 4.5 hrs for each brew (i took a break in between) including cooling. few things to share.
1) the wort in the kettle is not as clean as with a three vessel system since there is material that makes it through the bottom screen but not back up through the grain bed whereas with a three vessel that would be left behind in the mash tun. that said, after cooling i let it sit for 20 mins and then racked into my fermenter and the wort was noticeably cleaner that with the 100% mesh basket. so during the boil the wort was a little bit cleaner than before but into the fermenter it was noticeable cleaner. i gelatin most my beers and have had excellent clarity anyway but this has reduced my trub in the fermenter. my guess is that some larger stuff makes it through the screen and settles to the bottom of the kettle but the haze in the liquid gets filtered out by the grain bed. so when you let it sit after cooling that large stuff just settles to the bottom.
2) i did not have any issue with the sparge arm attachment. it screwed it down under the lip of the kettle and did didn't move at all. i didn't tighten it down hard because i didn't want to scratch the kettle. that is my one concern is that it screws down against the outside of the kettle and some sort of rubber coating on the end of the screw would be nice. i think a lot of it depends on how your run your hose up to it from your pump and how hard you recirc. my hose comes straight up from my pump with no bend and i ran my pump about 1/4 open to make sure i didn't cavitate the element. no issues whatsoever.
3) i also moved to a 4500W ULWD element and that has been a good improvement. on my batches i start boiling with about 7.75G of wort and i have to run the element at 75% to maintain boil. when i recirc through my counterflow i have to run at 95% to maintain a strong boil. but now i don't have the pulsing that i did with a 5500W element. also, my 5500W element was straight and i had some minor scorching. so far, the 4500W ripple element has been much cleaner at the end of the brew session. i didn't really notice much of time difference in heating up water. i'm sure there was but maybe a couple of minutes.
1) the wort in the kettle is not as clean as with a three vessel system since there is material that makes it through the bottom screen but not back up through the grain bed whereas with a three vessel that would be left behind in the mash tun. that said, after cooling i let it sit for 20 mins and then racked into my fermenter and the wort was noticeably cleaner that with the 100% mesh basket. so during the boil the wort was a little bit cleaner than before but into the fermenter it was noticeable cleaner. i gelatin most my beers and have had excellent clarity anyway but this has reduced my trub in the fermenter. my guess is that some larger stuff makes it through the screen and settles to the bottom of the kettle but the haze in the liquid gets filtered out by the grain bed. so when you let it sit after cooling that large stuff just settles to the bottom.
2) i did not have any issue with the sparge arm attachment. it screwed it down under the lip of the kettle and did didn't move at all. i didn't tighten it down hard because i didn't want to scratch the kettle. that is my one concern is that it screws down against the outside of the kettle and some sort of rubber coating on the end of the screw would be nice. i think a lot of it depends on how your run your hose up to it from your pump and how hard you recirc. my hose comes straight up from my pump with no bend and i ran my pump about 1/4 open to make sure i didn't cavitate the element. no issues whatsoever.
3) i also moved to a 4500W ULWD element and that has been a good improvement. on my batches i start boiling with about 7.75G of wort and i have to run the element at 75% to maintain boil. when i recirc through my counterflow i have to run at 95% to maintain a strong boil. but now i don't have the pulsing that i did with a 5500W element. also, my 5500W element was straight and i had some minor scorching. so far, the 4500W ripple element has been much cleaner at the end of the brew session. i didn't really notice much of time difference in heating up water. i'm sure there was but maybe a couple of minutes.
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Was there any differences in conversion or mash efficiency between the two baskets? Did one grain easier than the other?
Hommel
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I was getting ~70% efficiency with the 100% mesh basket (variance with different grains) and both these brews I was 73%. i thought it might be a bit worse but i guess the wort recirculating actually might have helped a bit.
i always do a 60 min mash now after reading the brulosophy test on it and i have had good conversion with both baskets. although there is a bit of clarity difference both passed iodine tests.
not sure what you mean by "grain easier". if you meant "drain easier" then no i didn't notice a difference. i ratchet the basket up so the bottom is just inside the kettle and then i set the temp to 205F in automode. when it gets to 205 (about 10-15 mins) i pull the basket out and pull it out and by that time it is dripping just a little bit with both the 100% mesh and the hard side basket. no real difference that i could tell.
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Thx. I did mean "drain."
02RedWS6TA
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It's not that big of a deal. It's a cheap way of doing what they're doing but not a deal breaker at all. If it bothers you just drill a hole in the basket and screw it through both ears until it's tight.
02RedWS6TA
Well-Known Member
For those interested I posted brew day number 2 in the other thread. Here is brew day 3. They're just quickies but they show the system in action.
https://youtu.be/OEO9UonS4ZU
https://youtu.be/OEO9UonS4ZU
