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I bought an RO kit from PureWaterClub (now out of business) which came with a 1.5/2 gallon storage tank, which eventually failed. I replaced it with a larger tank linked below that I found on Amazon. The day/night before brew day it takes me around 2/3 storage tanks full to fill my Foundry with 8 gallons. So I spend a few hours waiting for water, but it’s no biggie if you plan for this ahead of time.

iSpring T32M Pressurized Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00439MYYE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
 
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I bought an RO kit from PureWaterClub (now out of business) which came with a 1.5/2 gallon storage tank, which eventually failed. I replaced it with a larger tank linked below that I found on Amazon. The day/night before brew day it takes me around 2/3 storage tanks full to fill my Foundry with 8 gallons. So I spend a few hours waiting for water, but it’s no biggie if you plan for this ahead of time.

iSpring T32M Pressurized Water... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00439MYYE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I'm pretty good at planning ahead. Another poster put up a flow control output that I'm pretty sure I'll be using.. I'll keep a few water jugs available all the time. It beats a run over to the grocery store to get brewing..
 
Could you elaborate on this a little more? Have you come up with a way to fill a different container via float valve? This sounds optimal.
*EDIT: Just saw your other post. Thanks for that tip, I love the idea. I could just have it filling my brewzilla the night before!

I see a lot of people that have 3 vessel brewing systems sitting there and they have a 30 gallon tank on the side to collect water. It's a real head scratcher having empty vessels where the water has to go anyway and they wait until brew day to fill them up. The cool thing about dropping an adjustable float into any tank is that you can double the collected amount just by jumping drain valves together. If you have a float at the 15 gallon mark in a 20 gallon kettle, it will collect 15 gallons. If you jump the drain of the kettle to say the mash tun's drain with a hose and open both valves, they'll both fill to 15 gallons (30 total). Basically you can collect as much water as all your kettles can handle.
 
My question would be; what do you think that system has that one at 25% of the cost doesn't? Other than being stuffed into plastic case and having a "brew" in the name, it's nothing special.
I brew outside in the garage or I brew in the basement in my laundry room. The garage has no water service and the laundry room is very cramped. There is no room for even a small holding tank. I thought with the portability of that unit I could carry it to either location and ut it away when not needed.
 
Beware of the proprietary replacement filters.

Also - any RO system can be configured to produce just about whatever concentrate to permeate ratio you'd like. There is a small $4 part that sets that ratio, and you can change that out to modify the ratio. Membrane manufacturers specify their membrane performance at a specific water temperature, water pressure, and recovery (i.e., waste water to purified water ratio). Note that none of that information is provided by that vendor. Filmtec, widely considered the best membranes on the globe, spec's their residential membranes at about 5.5:1 (or a 15% recovery). Can you run it with less concentrate flow? Sure. But don't plan on meeting the rejection spec. (another data point not provided by that vendor.

Russ
Russ won't steer you wrong.

To help brewers with this important decision and purchase, read this article: What RO System should I buy
 
I see a lot of people that have 3 vessel brewing systems sitting there and they have a 30 gallon tank on the side to collect water.
I go straight from my RO system to my BK which has its drain coupled through its pump over to my HLT's drain port. If I set my controller to put 20 gallons in the rig, 10.5 of it will be in the BK and the rest in the HLT. As I need 11 gallons in the HLT and typically 9 gallons for strike liquor I run the BK's pump just long enough to shift a gallon and a half over to the HLT and I'm good to go :)

My RO system has the typical "4 gallon" pressure tank - which is good for around 2.5 gallons. I have that connected to its faucet on my brewery's sink and use it for rinsing off pH meters and refractometers, so the tank doesn't do a lot. Which means I have to drain it a couple of times a month so it doesn't get weird...

Cheers!
 
I brew outside in the garage or I brew in the basement in my laundry room. The garage has no water service and the laundry room is very cramped. There is no room for even a small holding tank. I thought with the portability of that unit I could carry it to either location and ut it away when not needed.
You can install a permanent RO unit under your kitchen sink ($140) , put a valve on the output hose with a few extra feet of tubing coiled up and then set up a float in a couple buckets. Make your water, collect in two buckets, shut the valve and put the hose back under the sink until next time.
 
You can install a permanent RO unit under your kitchen sink ($140) , put a valve on the output hose with a few extra feet of tubing coiled up and then set up a float in a couple buckets. Make your water, collect in two buckets, shut the valve and put the hose back under the sink until next time.
Thanks Bobby. That is helpful. Could you point me to the valves and floats needed?
 
I make my ro water just before I brew. It goes straight into my HLT (3v system) like Bobby says. The system itself hangs on the side of my brew cart, but could easily sit on a shelf or on the wall. I run an rv hose to the system from the outside faucet when I'm ready to use it. Have a bucket lid with a float which sit on the keggle to shut it off, in case I forget what I'm doing.
 

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Here's the lid an how I sit it on the kettle.

Not sure if all ro system have automatic shut offs though. When you close ro water side, the whole system stops.
 

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I see a lot of people that have 3 vessel brewing systems sitting there and they have a 30 gallon tank on the side to collect water. It's a real head scratcher having empty vessels where the water has to go anyway and they wait until brew day to fill them up. The cool thing about dropping an adjustable float into any tank is that you can double the collected amount just by jumping drain valves together. If you have a float at the 15 gallon mark in a 20 gallon kettle, it will collect 15 gallons. If you jump the drain of the kettle to say the mash tun's drain with a hose and open both valves, they'll both fill to 15 gallons (30 total). Basically you can collect as much water as all your kettles can handle.
The float is going to be the way for me to go I just need to find one up here, or make one.
 
Buckeye Hydro sells a system that offers a cutoff device here: https://www.buckeyehydro.com/auto-shut-off-valve-kit/
Our Premium RO System https://www.buckeyehydro.com/premium-ro-systems/ , which is what most of our homebrew customers order, has an "asov kit" as an option. That includes the three pieces you need to have the system shut down when your kettle (or some other container) is full: 1) Auto Shut Off Valve, 2) Check Valve, and 3) Float valve. The link EscapeArtist gave you is the same kits, just not associated with also buying a new RO system.

Russ
 
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Our Premium RO System, which is what most of our homebrew customer's order, has an "asov kit" as an option. That includes the three pieces you need to have the system shut down when your kettle (or some other container) is full: 1) Auto Shut Off Valve, 2) Check Valve, and 3) Float valve. The link EscapeArtist gave you is the same kits, just not associated with also buying a new RO system.

Russ
Sorry, Russ; I should have linked to the system.
FWIW, I'm very pleased with my Buckeye system.
 
Bobby,

I'm having trouble finding those on my amazon.ca. Can you point me to a link?

And is this perhaps the right one?

https://www.amazon.ca/3-Stage-Porta...d=1754701632&sprefix=geekpure,aps,538&sr=8-16
 
I go straight from my RO system to my BK which has its drain coupled through its pump over to my HLT's drain port. If I set my controller to put 20 gallons in the rig, 10.5 of it will be in the BK and the rest in the HLT. As I need 11 gallons in the HLT and typically 9 gallons for strike liquor I run the BK's pump just long enough to shift a gallon and a half over to the HLT and I'm good to go :)

My RO system has the typical "4 gallon" pressure tank - which is good for around 2.5 gallons. I have that connected to its faucet on my brewery's sink and use it for rinsing off pH meters and refractometers, so the tank doesn't do a lot. Which means I have to drain it a couple of times a month so it doesn't get weird...

@day_trippr where do you get your water volume controller?
 
FWIW I am not a big fan of cartridge housings that you can't see through, especially for the sediment filter.

Where I live the water lines are 40 years old and I usually get around 6 months use from my sediment filter as it turns orange. Even with Lake Michigan water.
 
Do you have to buy a tank?

@Bobby_M advises, helpfully, on a RO system. however, I see they all have tanks. I plan to only run it directly into the BK, so no need for a tank.

But the only tankless options are the cheap $70 three stage kits.

It appears that to get a good five stage RO system, I have to buy the tank as well. And I will do that if I have to.

So my question is, do I have to?

Buckeyhydro seems excellent, but shipping costs to Canada are $112, so I'll avoid that.
 
One does not need a pressure tank at all. If you're using the system just to fill a brew rig the benefit of a pressure tank is minimal.

fwiw, the issue with clear styrene acrylonitrile or polycarbonate filter housings is they tend to fail at a much higher rate than the white polypropylene housings...

Cheers!
 

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