Can I make 2 starters out of 1 pkg of dry???

[Forddog]

Sorry for the noob question this is my 4th extract batch and all have turned out wonderful.I did sarafle 05 on the first 2 and then tried white labs Kolsch for my third and then a propagator wyeat for my bass clone and made my first starter.
Oh yea i used the 5 oz of corn sugar for bottling to make the starter and it turned out fine og was a little high 1.054 but very nice.
This was before i started reading this forum and had no clue about washing yeast.

Well since i live in bum **** West virginia and no such thing as a LHBS here i got an APA and a IPA on tap to brew this weekend and only one pkg of sarafale us 05. Two questions

Would it be ok to split the dry into two separate starters a couple of days before and give me enough cells??

Could i wash the yeast and save it like it in yeast washing sticky even though it is dry yeast??
Oh yea i do have a # of DME this time
ANY Help would be appreciated !!!


oh yea the kits came from AHS their $20

1.058 for the ipa and 1.051 for the apa
thanks in advanc these forums have saved a lot of headaches and alot money

CHEERS!!

 

[BBL_Brewer]

You can do all of those things. Split up the dry yeast pack into multiple starters, wash some yeast from previous batches. Or just dump the new batch on top of a yeast cake from a prior fermentation. However, each of those things requires a little bit of background reading to make sure you do it right (ie....no contamination involved) and to ensure that you end up with the correct ammount of yeast to pitch to your next batch. There's plenty of information out there.....just do a search on this forum or simply do a google search.

If you have a deep freezer, I highly reccommend that you consider growing up large yeast starters and then splitting up the yeast into small portions and freezing. Since you don't have a LHBS handy.....I think you would like it. Plus, it saves a ton of money. That's what I do. There's a couple posts on the forums on freezing yeast already....I've been working on a post of my own though....coming soon.

 

[Forddog]

Ohh I forgot to mention I have dumped all my yeast from my previous batches. I haven't found u guys lol. I do have sample little sattelite fermenters from my kolsch batch and my last bass clone. I took a sanitized bottle of both batches when I first pitched my yeast an took hydrometer readings while the were fermenting so I have 2 bottles about 12 oz each with yeast on the bottoms of the bottle about a 1/2 inch of a yeast cake the have been sitting out bout 3 weeks at 68 degrees could I harvest these and make a starter???

Thanks

 

[erikpete18]

If you're sure that you kept the satellite fermenters free from contamination with any nasties, there's no reason you can't grow up a starter from one of them. I'd probably do at least a second step, maybe a third if you don't think you've got much yeast on the bottom. However, if you've got any concerns about how clean they are, I'd hate to waste a 5 gal. batch.

I say split your packet and make two starters. I've always heard that you shouldn't make starters for dry yeast, but I always thought that was just because you've already got plenty of cells. In your case, you probably don't have enough cells for two batches, so you've got to grow them up. (Although, I rarely use dry yeast anymore, so someone else might pitch in and correct me. I've also started freezing my yeast down!)

 

[BBL_Brewer]

I don't see why you couldn't as long as you are confident that your sanitation was good and that the bottle samples aren't contaminated. Sanitation is extremely important when it comes to reusing yeast (which is why some people do yeast washing to reduce the bacterial load) I wouldn't let em go too much longer though before you use em. Also, once the starter takes off good, you might give it a sniff and make sure it smells good and yeasty.

 

[jfowler1]

You had a lot of questions, and I am afraid a couple of things need to be re-addressed.

I am pretty sure the pack of US-05 you have is 11.5 grams. I will assume that is correct, and for the sake of calculation, the yeast is pretty fresh, has been well stored, and will be used for 5 gallons of an ale.

I plugged your OG's into the Mr. Malty Pitching calculator.....

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

1.058 = 11 grams of dry yeast
1.051 = 10 grams of dry yeast

So, despite what you were told, you can not split the batches between one pack, because if you want to pitch the correct amount of yeast, you will need 21 grams total. That said, you can split it anyway and underpitch. You will make beer, but it will not be as good as it could have been if you pitched correctly.

Ironically, the manufacturers directions tell homebrewers that their product can be sprinkled on top of the wort without rehydrating (remember that rehydrating is not the same as a starter). I have read that pitching dry yeast without rehydrating instantly reduced viable yeast by half. I have no idea why we are told to pitch this way, because professional instructions for dry yeast say clearly that the yeast needs to be rehydrated. Using that logic, I suppose that if you properly rehydrate the yeast to achieve 90% viability (instead of the 50% you could expect by pitching dry), you would have a similar pitch rate in 10 gallons of wort as you would have had in 5 gallons, following the homebrew directions. That whole concept is pretty insulting to homebrewers if you ask me. But do not be mislead by this; you will still be underpitching by splitting that packet.

More so, DO NOT MAKE STARTERS WITH DRY YEAST. It is actually doing more harm than good. By introducing the dry yeast directly to a starter, you not only kill a bulk of the yeast (I've heard 50%) by not allowing it to first be rehydrated in warm water (~100 F), but you also deplete the nutrient reserves that the manufacturer has worked to build into the yeast. You are spending those nutrients in the starter instead of the actual wort, so you are shooting yourself in the foot before you even pitch. Reserve your starters for liquid yeast, which need to be built up with nutrients on a stirplate before pitching. Dry yeast is a completely different animal.

Honestly, I do not suggest washing and reusing yeast until you are really confident that you are able achieve healthy and clean fermentations. If you are not confident about keeping things clean, you are just passing problems from batch to batch.

Do yourself a favor. Do not underpitch 10 gallons of wort in favor of saving one packet of yeast. You can buy several packs from an online retailer and store them in the fridge. They are cheap and keep well. About 30-45 minutes before you pitch, microwave about 16 oz of water, and let it cool to about 100F. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water, cover with sanitized foil, and allow it to rehydrate for the next 30 minutes. If you do not have a gram scale, you will never be too far off if you just use 1 packet for typical 1.055 wort. After the yeast is done rehydrating, pitch it directly into 5 gallons of wort. No starter, no washing, no pitching on top of an old yeast cake. You will be better off.

Joe

 

[terrapinj]

You had a lot of questions, and I am afraid a couple of things need to be re-addressed.

I am pretty sure the pack of US-05 you have is 11.5 grams. I will assume that is correct, and for the sake of calculation, the yeast is pretty fresh, has been well stored, and will be used for 5 gallons of an ale.

I plugged your OG's into the Mr. Malty Pitching calculator.....

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

1.058 = 11 grams of dry yeast
1.051 = 10 grams of dry yeast

So, despite what you were told, you can not split the batches between one pack, because if you want to pitch the correct amount of yeast, you will need 21 grams total. That said, you can split it anyway and underpitch. You will make beer, but it will not be as good as it could have been if you pitched correctly.

Ironically, the manufacturers directions tell homebrewers that their product can be sprinkled on top of the wort without rehydrating (remember that rehydrating is not the same as a starter). I have read that pitching dry yeast without rehydrating instantly reduced viable yeast by half. I have no idea why we are told to pitch this way, because professional instructions for dry yeast say clearly that the yeast needs to be rehydrated. Using that logic, I suppose that if you properly rehydrate the yeast to achieve 90% viability (instead of the 50% you could expect by pitching dry), you would have a similar pitch rate in 10 gallons of wort as you would have had in 5 gallons, following the homebrew directions. That whole concept is pretty insulting to homebrewers if you ask me. But do not be mislead by this; you will still be underpitching by splitting that packet.

More so, DO NOT MAKE STARTERS WITH DRY YEAST. It is actually doing more harm than good. By introducing the dry yeast directly to a starter, you not only kill a bulk of the yeast (I've heard 50%) by not allowing it to first be rehydrated in warm water (~100 F), but you also deplete the nutrient reserves that the manufacturer has worked to build into the yeast. You are spending those nutrients in the starter instead of the actual wort, so you are shooting yourself in the foot before you even pitch. Reserve your starters for liquid yeast, which need to be built up with nutrients on a stirplate before pitching. Dry yeast is a completely different animal.

Honestly, I do not suggest washing and reusing yeast until you are really confident that you are able achieve healthy and clean fermentations. If you are not confident about keeping things clean, you are just passing problems from batch to batch.

Do yourself a favor. Do not underpitch 10 gallons of wort in favor of saving one packet of yeast. You can buy several packs from an online retailer and store them in the fridge. They are cheap and keep well. About 30-45 minutes before you pitch, microwave about 16 oz of water, and let it cool to about 100F. Sprinkle the yeast on top of the water, cover with sanitized foil, and allow it to rehydrate for the next 30 minutes. If you do not have a gram scale, you will never be too far off if you just use 1 packet for typical 1.055 wort. After the yeast is done rehydrating, pitch it directly into 5 gallons of wort. No starter, no washing, no pitching on top of an old yeast cake. You will be better off.

Joe

where did you hear that pitching the yeast without rehydrating will kill 1/2 of the yeast?

also wouldn't adding it to 100° water cause more shock/stress than pitching dry?

 

[BBL_Brewer]

You had a lot of questions, and I am afraid a couple of things need to be re-addressed.

I am pretty sure the pack of US-05 you have is 11.5 grams. I will assume that is correct, and for the sake of calculation, the yeast is pretty fresh, has been well stored, and will be used for 5 gallons of an ale.

I plugged your OG's into the Mr. Malty Pitching calculator.....

http://www.mrmalty.com/calc/calc.html

1.058 = 11 grams of dry yeast
1.051 = 10 grams of dry yeast

So, despite what you were told, you can not split the batches between one pack, because if you want to pitch the correct amount of yeast, you will need 21 grams total. That said, you can split it anyway and underpitch. You will make beer, but it will not be as good as it could have been if you pitched correctly.

More so, DO NOT MAKE STARTERS WITH DRY YEAST. It is actually doing more harm than good. By introducing the dry yeast directly to a starter, you not only kill a bulk of the yeast (I've heard 50%) by not allowing it to first be rehydrated in warm water (~100 F), but you also deplete the nutrient reserves that the manufacturer has worked to build into the yeast. You are spending those nutrients in the starter instead of the actual wort, so you are shooting yourself in the foot before you even pitch. Reserve your starters for liquid yeast, which need to be built up with nutrients on a stirplate before pitching. Dry yeast is a completely different animal.

Joe

OK....First off

No one told the OP he could split the yeast packet itself between two batches, nor is that the question that was asked by the OP. The topic of discussion was whether or not the yeast could be split up between two starters. I see no reason why it couldn't as long as the starter is of sufficient quantity to grow enough yeast to ensure the proper pitching rate.

As for your comment about dry yeast and starters, well, your half right.

I absolutely agree that you should rehydrate yeast before pitching. That includes pitching to a starter. However, you have your facts mixed up a little on making yeast starters with dry yeast. Some dry yeasts are not reccommended for "Proofing" This is becasue the temporary activation of the yeast depletes their nutritional reserves and reduces their ability to adapt quickly to the main wort. That being said, yeast starters and proofing are two totally different animals. When you make a starter, if done properly, the yeast go through their whole life cycle. After the yeast finish fermenting, they build up their reserves again, settle out and pray for the next wort to come along. This differs greatly from proofing.

Again.....I see no reason why the OP can't make multiple starters destined for different batches of wort using one dry yeast packet as long as the starters are made in such a way that proper pitching rates are achieved.

 

[jfowler1]

where did you hear that pitching the yeast without rehydrating will kill 1/2 of the yeast?

also wouldn't adding it to 100° water cause more shock/stress than pitching dry?

Ok.

From Brewing Classic Styles - J. Zainasheff
Page 23,24
(regarding dry yeast)
"Do not just sprinkle it onto the wort [...] this is a shortcut that usually works but is not ideal. For best results, rehydrate the yeast in warm, preboiled water (95 to 105 F).

Additionally, I have heard Jamil state no less that 2 dozen times that pitching without rehydrating reduces the viability of dry yeast by about 1/2. It was covered as recently as the Meantime IPA show on Can You Brew It. Brewcaster J basically goofed up the clone, and a lot of it was due to mishandling the dry yeast. All the dry yeast issues the OP mentioned were covered. Check it out.

http://thebrewingnetwork.com/shows/727

It seems you would not be satisfied to take me a my word. I was sure I could find a reliable source to back me up. Not easy, but I found a Q&A. This is the explanation from Dr. Clayton Cone of Lallemand.

You can read the whole thing here, but I will cut and paste the greatest hits.

http://koehlerbeer.com/2008/06/07/rehydrating-dry-yeast-with-dr-clayton-cone/


Using 100F to rehydrate....
"Every strain of yeast has its own optimum rehydration temperature. All of
them range between 95 F to 105F. Most of them closer to 105F. The dried
yeast cell wall is fragile and it is the first few minutes (possibly
seconds) of rehydration that the warm temperature is critical while it is
reconstituting its cell wall structure."

1/2 of dry pitched cells die.......
"As you drop the initial temperature of the water from 95 to 85 or 75 or 65F
the yeast leached out more and more of its insides damaging the each cell.
The yeast viability also drops proportionally. At 95 – 105 F, there is
100% recovery of the viable dry yeast. At 60F, there can be as much as 60% dead cells."

(60% dead cells at 60F? What temperature do you pitch your ales?)

He goes on about wort starters for dry yeast.....
"For the initial few minutes (perhaps seconds) of rehydration, the yeast
cell wall cannot differentiate what passes through the wall. Toxic
materials like sprays, hops, SO2 and sugars in high levels, that the yeast
normally can selectively keep from passing through its cell wall rush right
in and seriously damage the cells. The moment that the cell wall is
properly reconstituted, the yeast can then regulate what goes in and out of
the cell. That is why we hesitate to recommend rehydration in wort or
must. Very dilute wort seems to be OK."

Finally - "but I always just sprinkle it on top!"
"How do many beer and wine makers have successful fermentations when they ignore all the above? I believe that it is just a numbers game. Each gram of Active Dry Yeast contains about 20 billion live yeast cells. If you
slightly damage the cells, they have a remarkable ability to recover in the
rich wort. If you kill 60% of the cells you still have 8 billion cells per
gram that can go on to do the job at a slower rate."

So basically, yes, you can do the opposite of everything the yeast scientist at Lallemand suggest and still make beer. But if you just did what you are supposed to do, you would make better beer. Who asks a question on this site to find out the least practical practice that is still capable of making a fermented beverage? No one. I think that concept is lost on a lot of people. We should be passing on the best possible advice, not "but it works fine for me, and I've been doing it that way for years!"

Rehydrate 11g at 100F, pitch.

Joe

 

[terrapinj]

thanks for the follow up - it wasn't a matter of not taking you at your word - i hadn't heard the info about pitching dry and was curious where it originated since fermentis states it can be pitched dry or rehydrated

 

[jfowler1]

I appreciate the follow up Shaggy, but I didn't see it before replying. The dog needed a walk mid-post. However, I do not agree with a couple of your points. This is also going to be a little unfair because you didn't have a chance to read my previous post where the scientist discusses the faults of using a wort starter for dry yeast. If you had a chance to read that first, you may have felt differently.

"No one told the OP he could split the yeast packet itself between two batches , nor is that the question that was asked by the OP. The topic of discussion was whether or not the yeast could be split up between two starters.

Right, but my point was that you can't (strike that) SHOULDN'T be making a starter for your dried yeast in the first place. So it's moot. I did it for a while. It was wrong. I stopped doing it. It'll work, but it is wrong. See previous post; the scientist and the Pope himself agree. My argument is that if he wants to use the 1 packet to make two batches of beer, he will be forced into under pitching because I won't even accept dry yeast starters as an option. It is not the correct thing to do, so the OP should not be advised to do it. He'll still make beer, sure. But again, it is not the best advice that someone can be giving him. It's not it'llstillmakebeertalk.com . The right thing is to rehydrate and pitch the correct # of grams. The correct number of grams to rehydrate is 11, and he has 11. Splitting the pack and trying to grow his count up in 2 large starters is physically possible, but it is a bad practice. He will have lots of sick and dead yeast instead of having a lesser, but appropriate number of healthy viable yeast. Which is better? End of story.

Also, I do not have "starters" mixed up, simply because you DON'T MAKE STARTERS for dry yeast. It is like being confused about the official species of the Easter Bunny. Starters are for liquid yeast, and now, they are all I use. Need proof that it is possible to accept that a brewing philosophy can be changed...look at this thread some jack-a** started two years ago about making starters with dry yeast. (Hint: the jack-a** was me)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/going-against-grain-dry-yeast-starters-129999/

Let me be clear. I posted this before I had enough experience or read otherwise, and I was completely wrong. You do not make starters/proof (whatever you want to call it, it is a sugar solution you are sending dried yeast into) for dry yeast.

I do make a starter of 1.040 wort for liquid yeast and put it on a stir plate for 36 hours before pitching. Repeat, that's liquid yeast. Jamil says "The starter’s purpose is to create enough clean, healthy yeast to ferment your batch under optimum conditions. The primary focus of a starter should always be yeast health first and increased cell growth second."

Yeast health first, growth second. Does that sound inline with advising the OP to make starters for his dry yeast, even though two experts I quoted suggest the opposite and note how detrimental it can be to the health of the dry yeast cell? Who is confused about starters?

Look, you can sneeze into your fermenter and get your wort to take off, but if you want to know the best practice for the OP......

Dry yeast = Rehydrate in water
Liquid yeast = Starter in wort

I'm sorry if that got rude, but when someone asks a question, they deserve the right answer, not the first answer.

Joe

 

[BrewKnurd]

I appreciate the follow up Shaggy, but I didn't see it before replying. The dog needed a walk mid-post. However, I do not agree with a couple of your points. This is also going to be a little unfair because you didn't have a chance to read my previous post where the scientist discusses the faults of using a wort starter for dry yeast. If you had a chance to read that first, you may have felt differently.

"No one told the OP he could split the yeast packet itself between two batches , nor is that the question that was asked by the OP. The topic of discussion was whether or not the yeast could be split up between two starters.

Right, but my point was that you can't (strike that) SHOULDN'T be making a starter for your dried yeast in the first place. So it's moot. I did it for a while. It was wrong. I stopped doing it. It'll work, but it is wrong. See previous post; the scientist and the Pope himself agree. My argument is that if he wants to use the 1 packet to make two batches of beer, he will be forced into under pitching because I won't even accept dry yeast starters as an option. It is not the correct thing to do, so the OP should not be advised to do it. He'll still make beer, sure. But again, it is not the best advice that someone can be giving him. It's not it'llstillmakebeertalk.com . The right thing is to rehydrate and pitch the correct # of grams. The correct number of grams to rehydrate is 11, and he has 11. Splitting the pack and trying to grow his count up in 2 large starters is physically possible, but it is a bad practice. He will have lots of sick and dead yeast instead of having a lesser, but appropriate number of healthy viable yeast. Which is better? End of story.

Also, I do not have "starters" mixed up, simply because you DON'T MAKE STARTERS for dry yeast. It is like being confused about the official species of the Easter Bunny. Starters are for liquid yeast, and now, they are all I use. Need proof that it is possible to accept that a brewing philosophy can be changed...look at this thread some jack-a** started two years ago about making starters with dry yeast. (Hint: the jack-a** was me)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f13/going-against-grain-dry-yeast-starters-129999/

Let me be clear. I posted this before I had enough experience or read otherwise, and I was completely wrong. You do not make starters/proof (whatever you want to call it, it is a sugar solution you are sending dried yeast into) for dry yeast.

I do make a starter of 1.040 wort for liquid yeast and put it on a stir plate for 36 hours before pitching. Repeat, that's liquid yeast. Jamil says "The starter’s purpose is to create enough clean, healthy yeast to ferment your batch under optimum conditions. The primary focus of a starter should always be yeast health first and increased cell growth second."

Yeast health first, growth second. Does that sound inline with advising the OP to make starters for his dry yeast, even though two experts I quoted suggest the opposite and note how detrimental it can be to the health of the dry yeast cell? Who is confused about starters?

Look, you can sneeze into your fermenter and get your wort to take off, but if you want to know the best practice for the OP......

Dry yeast = Rehydrate in water
Liquid yeast = Starter in wort

I'm sorry if that got rude, but when someone asks a question, they deserve the right answer, not the first answer.

Joe

Any reason you couldn't rehydrate the yeast, then split and add to two starters? Maybe I'm missing something.

 

[Sir-Brews-Alot]

It's pretty pointless and a waste of time to try building up multiple starters when you can just buy 2 packets of dry yeast for so cheap. That's the whole point of dry yeast...the cheapness factor. There really is no other added benefit to dry over liquid AFAIK (well besides not needing a starter.)

 

[BrewKnurd]

It's pretty pointless and a waste of time to try building up multiple starters when you can just buy 2 packets of dry yeast for so cheap. That's the whole point of dry yeast...the cheapness factor. There really is no other added benefit to dry over liquid AFAIK (well besides not needing a starter.)

Pointless, unless you're the OP with only one packet and no quick way to get another. :-D

 

[Sir-Brews-Alot]

Pointless, unless you're the OP with only one packet and no quick way to get another. :-D

Touché

 

[jfowler1]

Any reason you couldn't rehydrate the yeast, then split and add to two starters? Maybe I'm missing something.

You can do whatever you want. You SHOULDN'T because you are putting yeast growth in front of yeast health. You have also lost the advantage of dry yeast; simplicity.

We are now telling someone to take 1 packet of dry yeast, rehydrate it, make up 2 different starter wort vessels, and pitch the rehydrated yeast into those two starters to grow them up to an appropriate size and pitching rate. Are we crazy? People only favor dry yeast for its simplicity - we are now a long way from simple. I think I'll just buy a second packet of dry yeast or $1.99 and rehydrate and pitch the right way. You are spending more than that on DME.


Joe

 

[BrewKnurd]

You can do whatever you want. You SHOULDN'T because you are putting yeast growth in front of yeast health. You have also lost the advantage of dry yeast; simplicity.

We are now telling someone to take 1 packet of dry yeast, rehydrate it, make up 2 different starter wort vessels, and pitch the rehydrated yeast into those two starters to grow them up to an appropriate size and pitching rate. Are we crazy? People only favor dry yeast for its simplicity - we are now a long way from simple. I think I'll just buy a second packet of dry yeast or $1.99 and rehydrate and pitch the right way. You are spending more than that on DME.

Joe

Agreed, but again, the point was that dude didn't have a way to get another packet quickly. Not questioning that what your suggest may be best, but its not an option for him if he's on a tight schedule.

 

[ed_brews_now]

I have only rehydrated in boiled water that has cooled to room temp 68-70 degrees with Fermentis Safbrew T-58 and Safale S-04. Not the recommended 95 to 105. I have never had a problems. 8hrs and the krausen starts. 20hrs there is a blow off.
These are mid gravity brews 1.051 OG.

Ok.

From Brewing Classic Styles - J. Zainasheff
Page 23,24
(regarding dry yeast)
"Do not just sprinkle it onto the wort [...] this is a shortcut that usually works but is not ideal. For best results, rehydrate the yeast in warm, preboiled water (95 to 105 F).

 

[jfowler1]

Agreed, but again, the point was that dude didn't have a way to get another packet quickly. Not questioning that what your suggest may be best, but its not an option for him if he's on a tight schedule.

That's a good point. Reading back over this thread, a quicker answer would have been.

"Yes, you can, but you shouldn't."

Since that is not much of a help....if the OP is still reading, PM me with your address, and I will second day air you 4 packs of US-05. I have no use for them anymore and bought them at a good price. My own little pay it forward thread. You just have to promise not to drop them into starters!

Send me a PM tomorrow, and I'll ship them from work.

Joe

 

[BrewKnurd]

That's a good point. Reading back over this thread, a quicker answer would have been.

"Yes, you can, but you shouldn't."

Since that is not much of a help....if the OP is still reading, PM me with your address, and I will second day air you 4 packs of US-05. I have no use for them anymore and bought them at a good price. My own little pay it forward thread. You just have to promise not to drop them into starters!

Send me a PM tomorrow, and I'll ship them from work.

Joe

Haha, nice! Win for everyone. :-D

 

[jfowler1]

Haha, nice! Win for everyone. :-D

My thoughts exactly.

I will open that option up to anyone if the OP does not get back to me by tomorrow. I'd rather ship them out to someone who can use them than be forced to toss them. They'll be like a yeast peace pipe.

They are stamped 4/2011, but have been stored in a fridge since I bought them.

Good night everyone and good chatting,
Joe

 

[BBL_Brewer]

I'm sorry if that got rude, but when someone asks a question, they deserve the right answer, not the first answer.

Joe

I guess we'll just have to agree to disagree on this one..........

Besides....I doubt the OP would benefit much from any further debate.

Forddog......I hope you solve your yeast shortage issues. I'm sure you'll get it figured out. If I were you I'd take Joe up on his offer of free yeast....

You said next day air....right Joe?


Peace Out

 

[Yuri_Rage]

Here's an option that may satisfy both sides of the debate:

Make a 2 gallon batch of simple, low ABV beer (a 3-4% English mild, perhaps). Pitch the entire package of yeast (rehydrated, of course). Let it ferment for 7-10 days, rack, and split the healthy yeast cake across two 5 gallon batches.

If you're concerned about overpitching, use 1/3 to 1/2 of the packet. I'd probably just pitch the whole thing.

Why 2 gallons? Easy - you don't have to tie up a larger fermenter, and the batch size is just about perfect for getting enough clean slurry for two larger batches. You can do the small batch in a Mr. Beer fermenter, an icing pail, a big mason/Montana jar, etc.

Of course, even a short 7-10 day fermentation period is probably longer than it would take to place and receive an order from an online retailer.

 

[L0F]

Gee, I sure could some yeast myself...

 

[jfowler1]

You said next day air....right Joe?

Second day air, but no PM as of 7:00 am this morning. Will have to act fast if someone needs the yeast to brew this weekend.

Joe

 

[Forddog]

Second day air, but no PM as of 7:00 am this morning. Will have to act fast if someone needs the yeast to brew this weekend.

Joe

Just since u a prv

Hey guys this was sooo helpful after this debate i think i going to switch to liquid and just save the yeast cake and make starters from them i just think of all the yeast cells i dumped before i started reading this forum i had no clue about washing but something in my gut keep saying i should be dumping this cake i guess the gut knows!!!

Thanks all for helpfuladvice!!

Ps i think im gonna rehydrate and ptich the whole 11.5 grams and wait on some more yeast J fowler u the man!!

If i was in jersey id buy ya 2 pints!!!

 

[jfowler1]

Forddog,

I just PM'd you the tracking number. Good luck on brew day.

Joe