California Common California Common (Anchor Steam Clone) Extract and AG

[Yooper]

Want to make this tonight and I have a question. How long after pitching this yeast, how fast should it get to the 55 degree mark? Directions I have from my Homebrew store makes it seem like I wait for 24-36 hours then get it down to the 62-70 degree mark.

My Brown Ale I have, I waited 12 hours (same kind of directions) before getting it to 63 to allow for fermentaion to start well, but this was month or two ago and room temp was a bit lower than it is now. Just wondering if this is where my off taste is coming from in the Brown Ale and not wanting it in the Anchor beer.

Thanks

I fermented it at 55 degrees. I always pitch at or below fermentation temperature, using an appropriate sized starter, and let the beer rise to the proper fermentation temperature. I never pitch warm and then reduce the temperature.

 

[Bgon]

So after transferring the wort from boiling pot to fermentation bucket I will get it down to the 62-70 degrees range then pitch the yeast in and then get it to the 55 degree mark?

 

[Yooper]

So after transferring the wort from boiling pot to fermentation bucket I will get it down to the 62-70 degrees range then pitch the yeast in and then get it to the 55 degree mark?

That's possible, I guess. But it's not easy to cool that much wort down to 55 degrees, if that's where you want to ferment. I cool the wort, and then add the appropriate amount of yeast (usually about a 3 liter starter) into the wort.

 

[Bgon]

My ingredients:
Pilsen Light Malt Extract
Muntons Crystal 60 16 oz
NB .5 oz flavor and aroma
Warrior for bittereing
Safale US-05 (11.5g) dry yeast

I will hold off on this a day or two so I can get a second pack of yeast now or maybe even change it out. Will the Warrior be best to use in another recipe and get more NB or should it hold out fine?

 

[Yooper]

My ingredients:
Pilsen Light Malt Extract
Muntons Crystal 60 16 oz
NB .5 oz flavor and aroma
Warrior for bittereing
Safale US-05 (11.5g) dry yeast

I will hold off on this a day or two so I can get a second pack of yeast now or maybe even change it out. Will the Warrior be best to use in another recipe and get more NB or should it hold out fine?

If you're using S05, no need to wait for more yeast. But be advised that the key to a really good CC is the lager yeast fermented at above lager yeast temperatures, and only a certain strain of lager yeast at that. Otherwise, it's just a plain 'ole amber-ish beer.

Warrior would be fine for bittering, I think.

 

[Bgon]

I did not notice that about the yeast until just now. Not only was i given the wrong yeast, I was also short on the NB. I am glad I slowed down a bit and not rushed through it or I may not have been to happy with the outcome compared to the Anchor I have in the fridge. Emailing the HB shop now asking about the 34/70 I ordered.

Thanks

 

[Bgon]

Homebrew store will replace the missing hops and will the 34/70 lager dry yeast. NVM... upgraded to the correct liquid yeast.

Edited due to dropping iphone.

 

[jimlin]

Going to try to brew a cal common very soon. Spring time in NE and the temps only just dropped back to what should be normal for this time of year (had a warm winter and almost summer-like temps in April). This should mean my unfinished, not insulated basement should be able to keep the temp around 60-62, especially if I have the carboy on the cement floor. I don't have a fridge for fermenting at lager temps, so I did an altbier at 60°*this winter (using a fermwrap and temp control). I don't keg, so I had to bottle, carb up, and then lager the bottles. The alt came out fantastic, and very clear. Loved that Wyeast German Ale yeast (sludge at the bottom of my bottles allowed me to pour all the beer, unlike when I use Cal Ale yeast).

So, while the basement temps are cool, I'm going to try the Cal Common recipe from Brewing Classic Styles. Jamil Z says to brew something closer to Anchor Steam we should remove the Munich, Vicotry, and small amount of pale chocolate form the grist, but I'm thinking I'll just go with JZ's recipe. Loaded up on Northern Brewer hops (as it's one of the hops used commonly in the recipes I like, along with the typical Centennial and Cascade).

Will try to mash low (149-150) to dry it out a bit.

I have pretty soft water, and have found that my hop bitterness isn't as present or firm as it should be. Recently tried some gypsum in the boil for a hoppy amber (Tasty McDole's Amber recipe) and will likely do the same for this one. The only negative about my altbier was that it was supposed to be a Dusseldorf Alt, but the lack of hop firmness put it a bit more in the Northern Germany alt style, I think.

 

[theshoe82]

Made this tonight. I added .5 oz more of NB hops at 5 mins in addition to the .5 at flameout for a bit more aroma.

It's already bubbling away thanks to my new aeration kit. Cannot wait till its done!

 

[savylemons]

Made this 5 weeks ago and while the taste is great it lacks the crispness that I expected and mine seems to have more of a creamy, thicker mouthfeel than expected. My question is will this beer continue to get crisp as it cold conditions?

For reference: I hit OG and FG perfectly,
fermented at 58 degrees and at 1.020 did a D rest until complete, moved back and let sit two weeks at 55 degrees, then added gelatin and cold crashed 48 hours, bottled and carbed up for three weeks, and has only been in the fridge 48 hours since carbed.

Is the lack of cold time since carbonation have anything to do with it? I've only brewed ales and it's the first time I've used this strain, I just expected it to be more crisp, for I've gotten crisper results with WLP001 fermented at 62.

 

[jimlin]

Just an guess, as I will be brewing the cal common for the 1st time with my next batch, but cold lagering the bottles for a longer period of time should help.

I did another hybrid, an altbier, which I bottle conditioned, carb'ing up at warm temps for 2 weeks, then cold lagering in a fridge for 4 weeks. Not sure if the 4 week cold conditioning did it, or if it's just one part of the equation, but my alt was crisp and a bit lager-like despite the (german) ale yeast.

What was your FG?

Made this 5 weeks ago and while the taste is great it lacks the crispness that I expected and mine seems to have more of a creamy, thicker mouthfeel than expected. My question is will this beer continue to get crisp as it cold conditions?

For reference: I hit OG and FG perfectly,
fermented at 58 degrees and at 1.020 did a D rest until complete, moved back and let sit two weeks at 55 degrees, then added gelatin and cold crashed 48 hours, bottled and carbed up for three weeks, and has only been in the fridge 48 hours since carbed.

Is the lack of cold time since carbonation have anything to do with it? I've only brewed ales and it's the first time I've used this strain, I just expected it to be more crisp, for I've gotten crisper results with WLP001 fermented at 62.

 

[savylemons]

1.010

 

[jimlin]

Well, I can't say it didn't finish low enough then.

I've had my cal common in the primary for 12 days now. Managed to keep it at 60° with the carboy in a bucket of water on the cold cement floor of my basement. Ferment was heavy for the first several days, and I was glad to have the blow-off tube in place! It recenty had slowed to a burp through the airlock every 12-13 seconds. I removed it form the tub of water and it's now around 65°. Figure I will let it go a couple more days and then rack to a secondary and leave it in the basement until the activity in the airlock all but stops. Will check gravity when I rack to secondary.

I am hoping to get a used fridge in to the basement within a couple weeks so I can lager this (in the bottles most likely). If I get the fridge sooner, I can lager the secondary carboy in it and then bottle.

 

[Bgon]

I ended up with a beer I'm especially proud of. Was worried I let it get to cold during the two week primary fermentation. It finished out once I pulled it out of the swamp cooler before moving to secondary and a 2 week fridge lagering. Bottled and conditioned now for 3 weeks. Not quite the ale taste the original has but I'm not sure I would change much about it right now. Definitely will be made again.

 

[jimlin]

I ended up with a beer I'm especially proud of. Was worried I let it get to cold during the two week primary fermentation. It finished out once I pulled it out of the swamp cooler before moving to secondary and a 2 week fridge lagering. Bottled and conditioned now for 3 weeks. Not quite the ale taste the original has but I'm not sure I would change much about it right now. Definitely will be made again.

What temp did you carb at? Seeing that the yeast ferments in the low 60s, I'm assuming I should use that same temp? Typically with pales and IPAs, I used cal ale yeast and carb bottles at 68°-70, but not sure that's appropriate with the Wyeast 2112

 

[Yooper]

What temp did you carb at? Seeing that the yeast ferments in the low 60s, I'm assuming I should use that same temp? Typically with pales and IPAs, I used cal ale yeast and carb bottles at 68°-70, but not sure that's appropriate with the Wyeast 2112

Sure, 70 degrees is fine. I even carb my lagers at 70 degrees.

 

[Bgon]

I just boxed them up and they were placed in a closet to carb up. So 70 ish degree. Everything has mellowed more and it's a great batch. Will make it again soon.

 

[jimlin]

My cal common finished up at 1.014. I bottled and carbed it for 2 weeks around 70°. Just moved a case of it to the fridge to start lagering in the bottles. Tried one after a few days in the fridge, and noticed an odd off-flavor in the aroma and flavor. Hoping it's just because it's green. Can anyone comment on what I could expect from trying one without allowing lagering time?

UPDATED 6/21
Just popped another one. I'm wondering if it might just be the NB hops. I've used NB in several brews, but not typically for late additions. I think what I may be noticing is a little minty flavor? A little in the nose, and aftertaste.

UPDATED 6/24
Had another yesterday so my visiting brother in law could taste. Didn't notice the off-flavor... and finally was able to see sediment sludge at the bottom of the emptied bottle. So I'm hoping it's just that these needed more time in the fridge to drop the yeast and clear it up.

 

[homebrewbeliever]

This beer is good- but last night I tasted it head to head with Anchor Steam. One of my impressions is that the commercial version has more late addition hops. Maybe some dry hopping would help it come closer. I think NB hops tend to be harsh in later additions, though, so I'll keep my "clone" as is. My husband and I both prefer my version over the Anchor Steam due to the smoothness I have in mine.

My friend and I brewed the all-grain version of your recipe and it was fantastic. I agree, it is substantially smoother than Anchor Steam. I will totally brew this beer again!

 

[robertus]

Just finished brewing this an hour or so ago, have it in the swamp cooler at ~60 now (first time using the swamp cooler). Pitched at 60 - I was expecting to pitch between 65 and 70, but the temp of this beer dropped lightning fast in the ice bath, and adding the chilled top-off water knocked me lower than I'd expected. Still well within acceptable ranges, so no worries. Except that I have two 16-lb bags of ice left over .

Anywho, thanks for the recipe and the very smooth brew day.

 

[OmBoost]

Brewed this last week. After 9 days primary the gravity is at 1.030.
OG was 1.052. Is it time to rack to secondary and cold crash or should I give it some more time in primary?

On a side note: tasted the sample I took for measuring gravity, and this seems to be turning out extremely well, really smooth and balanced!

 

[Yooper]

Brewed this last week. After 9 days primary the gravity is at 1.030.
OG was 1.052. Is it time to rack to secondary and cold crash or should I give it some more time in primary?

On a side note: tasted the sample I took for measuring gravity, and this seems to be turning out extremely well, really smooth and balanced!

1.030 is too high! Did you double check the reading with the hydrometer tested in water?

If it's 1.030, it should taste pretty cloyingly sweet.

 

[OmBoost]

1.030 is too high! Did you double check the reading with the hydrometer tested in water?

If it's 1.030, it should taste pretty cloyingly sweet.

Yes, I`ve tested the hydrometer, and it is accurate.
There was some sweetness left, but really not overwhelming.

At what gravity should I rack to secondary?

 

[Yooper]

Yes, I`ve tested the hydrometer, and it is accurate.
There was some sweetness left, but really not overwhelming.

At what gravity should I rack to secondary?

When it's done, or at least lower than 1.020.

 

[daggers_nz]

I am currently pouring this beer. Although I've never tried this type of beer before, my batch is pretty bad - tastes rather "earthy" and not pleasant. I think my fermentation temps were a little high (64F) but it's definitely not sulphury..

 

[Yooper]

I am currently pouring this beer. Although I've never tried this type of beer before, my batch is pretty bad - tastes rather "earthy" and not pleasant. I think my fermentation temps were a little high (64F) but it's definitely not sulphury..

Hmmm, I don't know why it'd be "earthy" unless it was infected or had another issue. Northern Brewer hops are sort of a minty/woody flavor, but not dirty tasting or like fuggle hops.

 

[daggers_nz]

Yeah not sure what's going on. I had a single bottle in the fridge for about 3 days, had it tonight, tasted a bit better but the aftertaste is letting it down. It's gotta be something I did wrong along the line somewhere.

 

[natefrog255]

Would Warrior hops really change the profile of CA Common if used as bittering hop? My gut says no, but never brewed a CA before.

 

[natefrog255]

Or US Magnum for that matter...?

 

[terrapinj]

warrior and magnum are both neutral enough that you shouldn't notice much difference if they are just used for a 60min bittering addition as long as you adjust to compensate for the different AA% and target the same IBU