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The link you provided stated the valve takes 6.1W. So that would be 120*A=6.1. Witch would equal .050A or 50mA
 
one on the sheet is 40VA holding current. It is key to note VA is not the same as A. this stands for "Volt Amps" and and for DC is the same as watts so if fairly pointless for DC but is commonly use to reference "power" in the AC world because it takes into account the "power factor" i don't think power factor would be an issue for you so assuming a power factor of 1 that would mean 40W holding. 120*A=40 = .333A or 333mA. you can google VA to watt conversions if you need more info
 
thanks Ialso did some research yesterday and came to the same conclusion. Now I am trying to find a receptacle that I can plug my 2 pumps and switch them on alternate. Vs bringing the wires in to the enclosure. The goal is to be able to take the full enclosure out of the brutus . basiccaly plug and play
 
Brew today for the first time on my brutus! everything worked great.
My one concern was i wasn't getting much velocity out of my whirlpool valve which hardly created a trub cone. I pulled a lot of the broken down hops into my primary which im not terribly worried about in this beer but would love to fix this problem in the future.
 
looking good... it took me a very long time to decide on what i wanted to do, i also did a Brutus 10 but I welded my stand last summer and just finished adding my last few items a week or so ago.
Good luck and keep up the great work.
 
Hey Brian,
I realize this is a fairly old post but I was wondering if you could help me by sharing how you wired your Love Controller to the 3 position (on-off-on) switch. I am building a Brutus clone and am stuck on this wiring problem. I think I got it figured out but would love a second opinion.
Thanks,
John

Explaining my control panel... From top to bottom then left to right.

View attachment 42988

The top display is the love timer. Able to set from 0-999 secs/min a 2 beep alarm sounds at the end of the time. It can be manually over ridden, if the case was that is was wired as a switch, not so in my case, for now atleast.

The middle display is the love ts2-010 that is wired to control the HLT. There is tons of info on love controllers on this forum so I wont go into it unless someone asks.

The bottom display is the same set up as the middle, only it controls the MLT.

The switches directly to the right of the two ts2's are HOA switches, they are DPDT switches wired to give full control over the solenoid and in turn burner. When the switch is thrown up it will be in "auto" mode and allow the love controller to manage the burner.
When the switch is in the middle it is in off position and the burner will no be fed any gas.
When the switch is thrown down it is in the "manual" position and bypasses the love controller and the burner will be lit.

The switch to the top right is the main power switch to the system, simple on-off toggle switch, I want to put a key switch here and label off as "drink" and on as "brew" but thats again not function just aesthetic.

Below that switch were the tape is will be 2 lighted rocker switches corresponding to the 2 march pumps.
The switches will be wired so that the led is lit when the pumps are on.
 
Controller upgrade inspired by The Electric Brewery, thanks Kal.

XLR QD's for 2 rtd probe, electronic float valve to control water solenoid for HLT, and the power supply for the gas solenoids.

Indepent oulets for 2 pumps, water solenoid and an auxiliary for keg/carboy cleaner or mill

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1390455040520.jpg
 
Did some more up grades! My buddy has access to a laser etcher so he did all the labels on the panel for me that way and threw on some hops to class is up a bit. Looks great, works great.

1395514808539.jpg
 
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