BrunDog 50A eRig - no HLT for me!

Yakima 728
Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Assuming isolation means no flow... then yes, at least for the valves I use. It is a ball valve with a special V cut in it to "linearize" the flow. There is about zero flow below ~20% open. They work great IMO... I have one on the output of each of my two pumps.
 
BrunDog said:
Assuming isolation means no flow... then yes, at least for the valves I use. It is a ball valve with a special V cut in it to "linearize" the flow. There is about zero flow below ~20% open. They work great IMO... I have one on the output of each of my two pumps.
Click to expand...

I didn't know V ball valves were within the grasp of us lowly home brewers. I've used them plenty of times in industrial applications, but always assumed they would be too expensive for an individual to use it at home.
 
I have but generally don’t. Because I use stored RO water which both fills and sparges, it would take a bit of work: either acidify all the water then back it out with salts in the mash or acidify the stored water during the mash.

I have been putting all my salts in the mash with great success. Bru’NWater (sp?) has calculations for this and has been spot-on. Basically I let my strike water fill and heat, then add the salts right before or simultaneous to dough-in.

Since RO has no alkalinity, my understanding is acidifying it for sparge is not necessary. So I don’t. Getting good efficiency etc. so have been keeping this method.
 
Upgrades coming...
IMG_3853.jpg
 
Yessir!

BTW, there is a choice to create analog signals... First, for high impedance devices (like this one), you can use a basic R-C filter to create a low pass filter and feed the output to the control signal input of the device. R-C filter is just a resistor and capacitor in series from the interface output to ground, with the "output" the point they are connected.

Alternatively, BruControl now makes Analog Amplifier boards to convert an interface's PWM into an analog signal. The can convert 3.3V or 5V PWM into 0-5V, 0-10V, 0-12V, etc. for whatever control system needs it. These work well with higher impedance devices like the proportional valves. I have successfully run my proportionals using the above R-C filter, but technically the analog amplifier is a better route.
 
Does your cleaning cycle clean up all hoses and threaded fittings or is it necessary to clean them manually sometimes?
 
Nummisoft said:
Does your cleaning cycle clean up all hoses and threaded fittings or is it necessary to clean them manually sometimes?
Click to expand...

Well, I run PBW through everything that water, grain, or wort touches... So *theoretically* it is getting into all the same nooks and crannies... but in truth I have never taken the parts apart to see how clean it all gets. I would imagine its very possible there are certain areas where either PBW can't reach or is ineffective.
 
TexasWine said:
What amp meter are you using to to bring this into Brucontrol? I'm assuming you're not using the typical ones with the panel mount display.
Click to expand...
@TexasWine--I believe it's this one. I actually have an extra one (ordered too many things at once and then didn't open the box) that I'd be willing to send you for a couplea bucks. You can PM if you're interested.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
BrunDog, quick question about these (and other) current meters: they will not give you the total current including all 120v devices, right? I.e. my understanding is that the meter will give you 240v current plus the 120v current of anything that runs off the leg that goes through the little donut on the meter (in my case Hot2/black), but not 120v devices that run off the other hot leg. Is my understanding correct? Thanks!
 
adman said:
BrunDog, quick question about these (and other) current meters: they will not give you the total current including all 120v devices, right? I.e. my understanding is that the meter will give you 240v current plus the 120v current of anything that runs off the leg that goes through the little donut on the meter (in my case Hot2/black), but not 120v devices that run off the other hot leg. Is my understanding correct? Thanks!
Click to expand...

Yessir, correct. This is no different then panel mount contained units. If you wanted to measure the other leg, you could add a sensor there, but then know the 240V devices will be represented in BOTH sensors, then the 120V legs will be above those numbers. In my personal system, I know mentally there are a couple of additional amps going to the other leg.

Another solution would be to go all 240V devices (pumps, power supplies, etc.). Then you can measure all the current on one leg.
 
Brundog, et al.
I have a Kal clone I built a couple years ago and I'm about ready to upgrade it and automate a lot of it. I've found your build very inspiring and I will be implementing a lot of what you've done, including BC. My specific question for today is about your automated CIP solution. In particular, there was a bit of discussion about the lids of your kettles leaking with the use of a CIP ball. I have 20g Bayou Classic kettles and I'm concerned about being able to seal the lids. There was discussion about using saran wrap, which is not a solution I'm particularly excited about. Have you solved this issue and how?

My apologies if this was answered already and I missed it.
Thanks,
Vince
 
BrunDog said:
Hi HBT Brothers and Sisters,

I have learned so much incredible information via this forum, I thought it a good time to post up my rig and learnings as it may possibly help others. This is a 2 Vessel 50A electric rig that is mostly built, though upgrades will always be ongoing. It is similar to most other rigs, but here are some of the highlights:

  1. - 2 vessel, 50A, 2x5500W elements
  2. - BCS 462 powered
  3. - Direct sparge and strike water heating via RIMS tube
  4. - Dual voltage RIMS power
  5. - Dual flowmeters for autosparge and safety, powered via Arduino
  6. - Dual control box (main and console)
  7. - Inline O2 and poor man's sight glass
  8. - Cart design with onboard RO water storage

I will break these down into more detail in threads below. Please feel free to reply with any questions or comments. This is, like anything else, a work in progress. My next steps will be to possibly add electric ball valves, sight glass sensors, and anything else that gives me the tickles.

View attachment 301448

-BD
Click to expand...
What are the white pvc canisters on the right?
 
BrunDog said:
Assuming isolation means no flow... then yes, at least for the valves I use. It is a ball valve with a special V cut in it to "linearize" the flow. There is about zero flow below ~20% open. They work great IMO... I have one on the output of each of my two pumps.
Click to expand...
I remember there being a video of your brew day on this rig. Do you have the link handy by chance?
 

Similar threads

ApolloSpeed
Blichmann BrewEasy 20 Electric LTE review
Replies
2
Views
3K
Beer-lord
Beer-lord
J
JoshuaW's eBrewsupply Build!
Replies
27
Views
6K
mliptack
mliptack
BrewSpook
New Rig Plans
Replies
10
Views
3K
BrewSpook
BrewSpook
M
First Look: SS Brewtech Infussion Mash Tun
2 3
Replies
96
Views
36K
augiedoggy
augiedoggy
J
Advice on an electric BIAB system
Replies
7
Views
2K
jamesj1982
J
Brewer's Friend 300

Latest posts

Back
Top