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OK, made an improvement. I was hell-bent on using the GPIO pins, but I had the cart in front of the horse, as they can only handle 3.3v, so they cannot do a Mega or other 5v interfaces... I decided to use the CH340 plugged into the Pi ZeroW (using the special adapter cable for the Pi ZeroW from adafruit) this brings it down to two commands:
sudo apt install screen
sudo screen /dev/ttyUSB0 115200

Now, just a jumper change and should work on a Mega.... and it does, using TX0(1),RX0(0), Gnd

To think I wasted over 8 hours learning about the Pi UART quirks... time for a beer

*note - I tried using the blue wire that was connected to the SonOff 5V to power the Pi ZeroW, and it did, but do not think it was reliable enough for logging...

next up, making it log to a file and start on boot, possibly have it put the interface into debug mode?
VGCIcX5zMhX8Q0gToq2JAI4pZg7Midfh7zWw9jZL43laMDXXW_iiAbz-lcDOADAzd00oq5DWPh57ldOpB7rUUO8b6J-YR4ZrB-NlQpdmmympeTGT9Jr1x-LgltGkZXud55G-J4YjRdoPiQ_W8m_HejUig5vek5oe4vfocdonmD4Rc7fwwIj_sSPh-SGw18BG3TnYxcKzqHx49pH3Am-a80NWPkCV4qHRWP9nlB2lcDFQR6VGurTdyMAVEcu0-uekBQhQk9oxwqy78A63tjlFEk8gBLF9EtvPGj0fnae8O3i9Lgpr1lUDgXyhi1mGEmoOrz45j0a1Nqnq6dwb_6OsF17rUnwtIeWQVNxWvE7qkcFbsHCOz5AbjNihyBf7NphAGHj16ydT7GIzVGZTebmKPN_XXEFLziUceTWpQ_Lfpb8o6zd9a8Kc8WivyfSva_WNxIJegUb_Yooh28t9rsHQImypW683NV9pAgqxI9b7fJeKYLpTveHDg4HnbC3TlseYTEGrKFuxGI5u3Lo9CV3APIObTZLNRSqROq4JOxsvcbQcngef_--8hlXSImgUR7B8q6pwXNP_qcZ26hm53AYL5mepeHWpET7msWYIoZY5LqW7S9lWQa3f9bVA4OTe-b3o2P9JO2gEbfPTnQK8LUN-zvHIWtjnj-nY=w1048-h787-no
 
Still nice. FYI once the interface is connected to BC via network it will not receive commands via serial. Therefore you either need to d/c BC or send the debug control code via the Communications dialogue. We’re adding the ability to do it via script but obviously that’s not released yet.
 
Still nice. FYI once the interface is connected to BC via network it will not receive commands via serial. Therefore you either need to d/c BC or send the debug control code via the Communications dialogue. We’re adding the ability to do it via script but obviously that’s not released yet.
nice... script, UI button or even GPIO would be a nice addition... not a priority...
 
it would be nice in a script to be able to Enable or Disable a Calibration Row. For example, I have a Radiator Vessel that I use for Strike and then for Mash, but also Cleaning and Boil additions.

I make a Lookup Table for the Strike and Mash, but would like the Lookup Table Row Disabled when not doing Strike or Mash. I know that I can go in manually and turn it off and on, but via scripting would be nice.
 
Sorry, it would be unlikely we would implement something like that. Calibrations are to there convert inputs and outputs to refined values. They’re kind of “sacred” in that regard. If you want to dynamically change values, I recommend you do it in a script.
 
@BrunDog

I know officially that certain microcontrollers are supported. I’m wondering if the Arduino Leonardo is supported under the table, so to speak?

I’m drawing up a wiring schematic to post up here soon because I also need help hunting down some EMI or Power Supply issues because I’m burning out my Mega (3x this month). I’m doing something incorrect and need help finding it.
 
The usual suspect on the Mega is the AMS117xx regulator, especially if you are powering via the 9-12v ferrule. If you have a pin that is drawing too much current (40ma max), or a combination of pins that is drawing more than 200ma across the board, you will run into problems. Are you operating a specific device when this happens?
 
I’m using 9V on the ferrule but I’ve had the same problem with Vin on my screw shield. The devices I am using three one wire sensors and one flowmeter, all via serial to the PC and powered by Mega 5v. On 12v supply I’m powering a relay board which controls two ball valves.
 
The bigger power draw comes from the shields, especially Wi-Fi. It sounds like this is a repeating issue. We will test some configurations and current draws for everyone to compare against. I’ll look for an adhesive based heat sink too - that will help back this off the threshold.
 
The previous times it has died, were you actively using it when it died? Also, is your relay board active low or active high?

It’s active high currently but it has jumpers to switch to active low. Also I was not actively using the system when it died. Twice were during powering up (software loading). The third I’m not sure because I happened while I was away.
 
Do you have an ammeter you can use to test outputs etc? I know you know what you’re doing but something must be the source of the overcurrent. The transients should not cause an issue.

You have schematics and/or hardware lists you might share? You can email us if you prefer, too.
 
RTD PT 100 Probes

I have the RTD Platform RP-3 Board with a Max Adafruit 31865 Resistor 430 Version.

I have a 3 wire probe. I cut the 24-3 trace and solder jumper the two as per the Adafruit plans on the Max 31865. I checked that the trace was not connected after I added the solder jumper.

I added an SPI Sensor Element to Port 14 on the Mega,

I am reading -247 on the probe. The temp of the liquid is 69.6 F.

What value format is the -247?
 
It is enabled. I turned it Off. The Value is now 0. I added another unwired PORT 15 SPI and it also reads 0. Obviously the probe is not reading.
FYI 45c Firmware USB Connected Separate 5 vdc to VCC on RP-3

I checked the wiring, so down to Probe, MAX 31685.

On all 3 Probe wires there is about 2.20 +_ volts.

I am looking for another probe to test.
 
@BrunDog

I know officially that certain microcontrollers are supported. I’m wondering if the Arduino Leonardo is supported under the table, so to speak?

Sorry, I overlooked this question. The Leonardo doesn't have enough memory to support the BC firmware. We never tried porting it as a result.
 
Do you have an ammeter you can use to test outputs etc? I know you know what you’re doing but something must be the source of the overcurrent. The transients should not cause an issue.

You have schematics and/or hardware lists you might share? You can email us if you prefer, too.

I’ve been out of town. I will put together the info and then email you. Thx for helping.
 
All the grounds are tied to a grounding bar. I have tried it with only the Mega providing ground and power as well. The 5 +vdc vin is from a Buck Transformer that is supplied by a 12 vdc transformer. I will replay with the wiring and see if it is bad anywhere.

But, what is the native Temp for an SPI Senso Kelvin? C? F?
 
A dumb question about din rail. It looks like all din rail is 1" wide, but comes in several 'heights'. Someone gave me a piece that is 1/4" high, but as I go to buy some, I see most of it on ebay at 7.5mm high. Does it matter except that what I use should all be the same?
 
Anyone have a suggestion for a good source for an enclosure. I've done a lot of searching and for a hinged 24x24x8 without knockouts or gland plate (with or without key) and I'm looking at $200 - $300 (gulp). I would prefer hinged rather than screws.
 
Anyone have a suggestion for a good source for an enclosure. I've done a lot of searching and for a hinged 24x24x8 without knockouts or gland plate (with or without key) and I'm looking at $200 - $300 (gulp). I would prefer hinged rather than screws.
I got mine through a place called nextdayautomation.com, they resell a bunch of used stuff so if you don't mind a few holes (they have pretty detailed pics of each offering) and typically ship free. I got a Hoffman 24x24x10 with backplate with DIN rails and cable tray already installed as well as an enclosure fan shipped to me for about $250. If you want stainless be prepared to pay a bit more. As for you DIN question above, I use 1/4" and haven't had any issues, but I could see where if the components were very tall the deeper rail would make it a bit easier to get stuff on and off.
 
I got mine through a place called nextdayautomation.com, they resell a bunch of used stuff so if you don't mind a few holes (they have pretty detailed pics of each offering) and typically ship free. I got a Hoffman 24x24x10 with backplate with DIN rails and cable tray already installed as well as an enclosure fan shipped to me for about $250. If you want stainless be prepared to pay a bit more. As for you DIN question above, I use 1/4" and haven't had any issues, but I could see where if the components were very tall the deeper rail would make it a bit easier to get stuff on and off.

Thanks, I'll check nextdayautomation out. Any suggestions on wire duct? 2x2, 3x3 ??
 
3x2 duct came on mine and it has been sufficient and I have a reasonable amount of wiring in my panel.

Thanks. Bit of a loaded question. I know the real answer is "it depends". At this point I don't have a feel for how much wiring I'll have based on my design. Want to err on the side of too big rather than too small and cramming wiring in a small space.

I like your layout. Lot's of space. Looks like the 10" depth is nice. I also see where some of the existing holes were on the left. Really doesn't matter as long as there is sufficient space to mount everything.
 
Yeah, there were 7 or 8 holes punched in the box, some of which I was able to reuse. I also have plugs to fill the other holes, but I just haven't gotten around to installing them. If you have the room, the 10" deep is definitely nice, gave me room to side mount some outlets and I still have room if I ever needed to mount more. I would highly recommend using a backplane to mount your components. It was much easier laying everything out on a table, horizontally, then it would have been hunching in the box trying to do it vertically.
 
Thanks. Bit of a loaded question. I know the real answer is "it depends". At this point I don't have a feel for how much wiring I'll have based on my design. Want to err on the side of too big rather than too small and cramming wiring in a small space.

I like your layout. Lot's of space. Looks like the 10" depth is nice. I also see where some of the existing holes were on the left. Really doesn't matter as long as there is sufficient space to mount everything.
Bigger is always better! If you get it to fit now, it will not allow additions.
 
Solved the RTD issue. It was simple. I had assembled one of the MAX 31865 upside down and it was in one of the slots on the RP-3. Removed it and everything works. Could not see the forest for the trees. I was making some notes and was looking at top and bottom of MAX 31865 and was right in front of me! Duhhhhh!
 
Is there any reason why I couldn't use a poly-carbonate enclosure instead of steel, primarily to keep the weight down? For the sub or back panel also? It looks like everything is grounded via wire and not thru the case. Looks like a 24x24 steel case is 50 - 60 lbs.
 
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