Brewzilla Gen4 Discussion/Tips Talk

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I just got my first all-grain system (Brewzilla Gen 4) and I’d love to get the HED but it’s not available in the U.S. I’d also love to get the RAPT Bluetooth Thermometer and the 35L Neoprene Jacket, but — also both unavailable in the U.S. I feel like I’ve been checking the MoreBeer site for months now. Is this kind of delay in supply for the U.S. market typical for Kegland?
 
Awesome! Thanks for the tip
The HED seems to be unavailable right now on aliexpress. I was going to work with a local shop to create some HEDs to fit the 65L systems, I don't think the cost would be above $50 with shipping included. Would anyone be interested in putting in an order? The more we get the lower the cost.
 
I am posting this here for community comment but hoping KegLand will also chime in. An issue I had with my BZ G4 when I first received it and was setting it up is that the heating element came on as soon as I plugged it up, prior to pressing any buttons. I was busy reading instructions and such and did not notice it was on until a few minutes later. The unit did not have water in it. Kegland said that some units had been left with the elements on during testing and that is what caused it. Despite the instructions saying that you should not run the elements dry, both KegLand and MoreBeer assured me that it would be fine and everything would be ok. I have brewed on the unit twice and, although there have been lessons learned, as indicated in all the posts above, I feel good about how things have gone.

I am getting ready to brew this weekend and will be using the boiler extension as I want to do a full volume mash (more on this in a subsequent post) so I went out to check out the extension piece and water levels and as soon as I plugged the unit up (after sitting unplugged for over a month), the heating elements immediately came on again, prior to pressing any buttons. I know for a fact when I shut it down after the previous brew, the elements were off before I unplugged it.

Unless I am doing something wrong, I see this as a bug. The heating elements should NOT come on as the default setting when the unit is first plugged in. It did not do this on my first two brews so I am at a loss as to why it did it this time.

Thoughts? Suggestions?
 
I wanted to post this separately from the above post as it is a different subject. When I bought my BZ G4, I also bought the boiler extension pipe as I planned on trying some full volume mashes that were bigger than 9.25 G. The extension fit nicely and did not leak so I think it will work just fine. My only complaint is this - The volume markings on the extension do not pick up where the markings in the bottom boiler end. The markings in the main boiler end at 8 G and the markings on the extension run 1-3 G and the difference between the 8 and 1 are not spaced in any way that makes since. So, I filled it up 1 G at a time to figure out where valumes fell. For any of you that plan to get the extension, here is where the volumes line up in the extension. Since nothing lined up with any of the gallon marks and there are more liter marks to reference, I used those as my reference points: 9 G = bottom of the malt pipe support wire (in the main boiler). 10 G = just above the 2 liter mark in the extension pipe. 11 G = top of the 6 liter mark in the extension pipe. and 12 G = bottom of the 10 liter mark.
 
Just added this wort aerator to the recirculation arm. Really think this will help with preventing tunneling in the grains, more even temperature distribution, and with CIP. Going to brew a lutra yeast based cream ale tomorrow as a test batch.
20230128_160452.jpg
 
I am posting this here for community comment but hoping KegLand will also chime in. An issue I had with my BZ G4 when I first received it and was setting it up is that the heating element came on as soon as I plugged it up, prior to pressing any buttons. I was busy reading instructions and such and did not notice it was on until a few minutes later. The unit did not have water in it. Kegland said that some units had been left with the elements on during testing and that is what caused it. Despite the instructions saying that you should not run the elements dry, both KegLand and MoreBeer assured me that it would be fine and everything would be ok. I have brewed on the unit twice and, although there have been lessons learned, as indicated in all the posts above, I feel good about how things have gone.

I am getting ready to brew this weekend and will be using the boiler extension as I want to do a full volume mash (more on this in a subsequent post) so I went out to check out the extension piece and water levels and as soon as I plugged the unit up (after sitting unplugged for over a month), the heating elements immediately came on again, prior to pressing any buttons. I know for a fact when I shut it down after the previous brew, the elements were off before I unplugged it.

Unless I am doing something wrong, I see this as a bug. The heating elements should NOT come on as the default setting when the unit is first plugged in. It did not do this on my first two brews so I am at a loss as to why it did it this time.

Thoughts? Suggestions?

With the old BrewZilla Gen 3.1 we had requests from customers to make sure the Brewzilla would remember the previous settings so if you lost power momentarily the brewzilla would return to the same temperature that it was set at previously. This can be particularly frustrating if you are preheating water the night before and for some reason the power goes out momentarily as in this instance you want the BrewZilla to return to it's previous set point.

Before the BrewZilla units are tested we fill them with water, check for leaks and also check that they are heating water correctly. During this testing the elements are set to heat up. Then the BrewZilla units are turned off, dried and then put into box to get shipped to customers. So for the earlier BrewZilla units that were made the BrewZilla when new would already have a hot set temp to check the elements work and thus would turn on as soon as you power up the device. With that said we have highlighted this issue in our processes already and now new Brewzilla units that we make we set the temp back down to 0C before they are shipped so this doesn't happen.

We can definitely change the firmware so it would require you to hit a "confirm" button before the elements come on but I would be worried that this would be a negative for some other customers as mentioned above.

With that said we have done a lot of durability testing on the elements. Our single vessel brewery very low watt density and this also makes the elements more robust and able to handle abuse. We do tell our customers not to boil the units dry but during development of the product if you do boil dry the thermal cut out will trigger fairly quickly. Also during testing we removed the thermal cut out switch and intentionally boiled the unit dry for several hours and still the elements did not burn out. In fact to really push this point I did make an electric smoker to smoke fish and meat out of a BrewZilla too and in this testing I had the 500watt element on for 12hrs at a time with no liquid on the element and just some wood chips. I did have to remove the controller, tap and most of the components from the underside of the unit but even with the elements on for 12hrs at a time completely dry and with the thermal cut off removed the 500watt element did not burn out.

So if you have accidentally turned the unit on and it boils dry I am quite confident that it will still be fine.

I should also say I made another BrewZilla into a deep fryer too which was operating at 200C (392F) also for many hours. For this I had to remove the pump, remove electronics, remove controller and remove thermal cut out switch. I would not say this worked really well as 2.2kw of power to head up 20L deep fryer was a bit too slow and every time i put in 3kg of frozen chips the temp did drop down quite a bit and take a long time to recover. With that said it certainly did prove the elements can take a significant amount of punishment.
 
I wanted to post this separately from the above post as it is a different subject. When I bought my BZ G4, I also bought the boiler extension pipe as I planned on trying some full volume mashes that were bigger than 9.25 G. The extension fit nicely and did not leak so I think it will work just fine. My only complaint is this - The volume markings on the extension do not pick up where the markings in the bottom boiler end. The markings in the main boiler end at 8 G and the markings on the extension run 1-3 G and the difference between the 8 and 1 are not spaced in any way that makes since. So, I filled it up 1 G at a time to figure out where valumes fell. For any of you that plan to get the extension, here is where the volumes line up in the extension. Since nothing lined up with any of the gallon marks and there are more liter marks to reference, I used those as my reference points: 9 G = bottom of the malt pipe support wire (in the main boiler). 10 G = just above the 2 liter mark in the extension pipe. 11 G = top of the 6 liter mark in the extension pipe. and 12 G = bottom of the 10 liter mark.

This is a fair point. I will take this to the guys in production and get this resolved. We do get customers often use more than one extension too which makes this a bit complicated too as we can make the base match up with one extension but when you fit the second extension making all the levels match up becomes more difficult.
 
I just got my first all-grain system (Brewzilla Gen 4) and I’d love to get the HED but it’s not available in the U.S. I’d also love to get the RAPT Bluetooth Thermometer and the 35L Neoprene Jacket, but — also both unavailable in the U.S. I feel like I’ve been checking the MoreBeer site for months now. Is this kind of delay in supply for the U.S. market typical for Kegland?

Yes sorry about that. We made a few changes to the HED design and this slowed down the production of these. Ideally they would have been launched together but we are catching up now and they will be arriving to America very soon.
 
I am a long-time BZ 3.1 user that moved to the Gen 4 65L as soon as it was available, and I am four batches in to learning & dialing in the new system. Here is what I have learned to date—please feel free to add to this as other best practices are developed and proved in.

My Gen 4 Tips & Best Practices So Far

  • PID: use it (have to turn it on in the controller Settings), and use it with the Kegland and/or David Heath recommended settings for your batch size (see their YouTube videos and take screen shots)
  • BZ Temp Readings: mine arrived reading 5.7F low vs. actual, which made my first batch in it finish fermentation at way too high of a FG! I got a simple and not expensive reference thermometer, plunked it into the middle of the malt pipe full of water (just above the bottom malt pipe plate) and calibrated it (in the controller) at 150F and 200F. The BZ Gen4 now stays within 0.5F of the reference thermometer, and my FGs are hitting Brewfather predicted values.
  • Power: I use 100% power when heating up water and bringing the wort to a boil. When mashing, to include steps, I turn it down to about 40-50% power, which decreases the temp overshoot severity but does not eliminate them. A nice option when boiling is to *not* use 100%, and I find that ~65-70% power (5.5gal batch) results in a nice but not violent boil.
  • Mashing Temperature Targets: do not go straight to the temp needed, but ‘walk’ up to it. For example, when mashing out at 168F, I usually put in about 166F and correct it later when close. Otherwise, it may overshoot by 2+ degrees before returning down, sometimes by a lot.
  • Pump Clogging: never had a clogged pump in my 3.1 BZ, but clogged multiple times every batch with the Gen 4 UNTIL getting a BIAB bag…The Brew Bag-Designed for Brew In A Bag-This is your LAST brew bag! now has a BZ Gen 4 65L specific version for either the kettle (what I use) or to use within the mash pipe. Using this bag also made the boil and what goes into the fermentor much cleaner than before—highly recommended!
  • Recirculation when Mashing: the pump’s power will exceed the strength of your grain bed. Turn up the recirc too high and you can turn your mash into a useless pile of goo…ask me how I know. Start as low as possible and gradually step it up to where you want it. However…(see next recommendation)
    • Temperature stability seems highest when there is a low-ish amount of recirc, but worst with high or no recirc. I am sure the Heat Exchanger Dish will help this, but it is not out yet in the US—I am anxiously awaiting it.
    • Also, you can change the pump %, but that does not change the strength the pump flows at, but rather the percentage of time it is on/off. Sorta useful, maybe.
  • Grain Crush: I am using a three-roller mill (Grain Mill with 11 lb Hopper and 3 Rollers) and crushing the grains twice at the widest setting (0.065?). Any finer of a crush results in a crazy amount of grain escaping both filter plates due to the previously mentioned pump strength.
  • Efficiency: in my 3.1 BZ, I usually got about 78%, sometimes higher. My first batch in the Gen 4 was 74%, and I am now hitting 76-77% with repeatability. Glucabuster used very sparingly in the mash seems to enhance efficiency by about 1-3%.
Gen4 came with a higher learning curve than Gen3 did, but also offers the greatest flexibility and customization. Using the Brew Bag last batch, and for the first time ever, I was able to clean the Gen4 while it sat on it’s SSBrewtech BrewCube (i.e. didn’t have to move it and no dumping needed), which was a lovely improvement. All in all, it’s a keeper, but I am hoping sharing best practices lowers everyone else’s learning curves. YMMV.

Thanks for this feedback. I have brewed quite a lot and never had the blocked pump on the BZ Gen 4 in normal brewing conditions. I tend to thing that it's not a blocked pump to be honest. In a lot of our testing it's very hard to block the pump however it's quite easy to pump the BZ dry and this may appear like a blocked pump.

For instance if you do not have enough liquid in the base of the unit the pump will pump dry and then cavitate and it may appear to be blocked.

With the Gen 4 we have optimized the malt pipe and made this larger so the malt pipe can fit more grain so higher gravity beers are easier to do. In doing this it also means for smaller batches you can actually pump all the liquid into the malt pipe and it will fit. So when this happens the bottom of the boiler is completely dry. If this is the case you should slow the pump down to say 30% or something to avoid this. So next time you brew and you think you have a blocked pump I would lift out the malt pipe up and ensure that you actually have enough liquid in the base of the boiler. (it should be above the minimum graduation on the boiler. I would be keen to hear back from you once you have tried this.

I should also say we did some unusual testing where we did block the pump but this was extremally difficult to do and we found that if you leave the pump off and mash in for a very long time (more than 6hrs) you can get fine powder/flour from the grain solidify in the base where the pump is and form a type of solidified glue. For this reason I would always recommend at least having the pump on 10% so the liquid is being agitated. To be honest this is always a good idea anyway as if you are mashing you kinda want some circulation to keep the temperature even. Even when boiling I still have the pump on at least 10% to ensure the recirculation tube gets hot too. So really my recommendation would be to always use at least 10% pump and you will avoid any issues like this. Even when heating up the hot water I generally have the pump on at least 10% to ensure I am not getting stratification in the boiler.

So besides this quite unusual condition where I mashed for a long time with no recirculation I have never blocked the pump before and I have done many brews even testing with double milled grain and loads of flour/powder in the grain bill and had no issues whatsoever.
 
Thanks for this feedback. I have brewed quite a lot and never had the blocked pump on the BZ Gen 4 in normal brewing conditions. I tend to thing that it's not a blocked pump to be honest. In a lot of our testing it's very hard to block the pump however it's quite easy to pump the BZ dry and this may appear like a blocked pump.

For instance if you do not have enough liquid in the base of the unit the pump will pump dry and then cavitate and it may appear to be blocked.

With the Gen 4 we have optimized the malt pipe and made this larger so the malt pipe can fit more grain so higher gravity beers are easier to do. In doing this it also means for smaller batches you can actually pump all the liquid into the malt pipe and it will fit. So when this happens the bottom of the boiler is completely dry. If this is the case you should slow the pump down to say 30% or something to avoid this. So next time you brew and you think you have a blocked pump I would lift out the malt pipe up and ensure that you actually have enough liquid in the base of the boiler. (it should be above the minimum graduation on the boiler. I would be keen to hear back from you once you have tried this.

I should also say we did some unusual testing where we did block the pump but this was extremally difficult to do and we found that if you leave the pump off and mash in for a very long time (more than 6hrs) you can get fine powder/flour from the grain solidify in the base where the pump is and form a type of solidified glue. For this reason I would always recommend at least having the pump on 10% so the liquid is being agitated. To be honest this is always a good idea anyway as if you are mashing you kinda want some circulation to keep the temperature even. Even when boiling I still have the pump on at least 10% to ensure the recirculation tube gets hot too. So really my recommendation would be to always use at least 10% pump and you will avoid any issues like this. Even when heating up the hot water I generally have the pump on at least 10% to ensure I am not getting stratification in the boiler.

So besides this quite unusual condition where I mashed for a long time with no recirculation I have never blocked the pump before and I have done many brews even testing with double milled grain and loads of flour/powder in the grain bill and had no issues whatsoever.

The issues I have had are with stuck recirculation during the mash. What crush size do you guys recommend and how many qts per lb of grain should I aim for in the mash? I first tried 1.5qts per lb and that was hit or miss. I bumped up to 1.8qts per lb and that's been hit or miss also. Thinking I may be crushing too fine though. The Homebrew Network had a live session on Youtube last week and they recommended crushing extremely course at .054". I ended up investing in a 3rd party brew bag and that has helped tremendously! A suggestion I would love to make is to upgrade the malt pipe and remote the holes on the bottom/sides and replace them with a mesh filter such as

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-610x3...&sprefix=400+micron+cloth,aps,307&sr=8-9&th=1
It would serve 2 purposes (well three in my case lol) The first two would be to help tremendously with stuck recirculation and would keep grains out of the boiler. The third is it would be one less thing I'd have to clean after each brew ;)

Another question is do you recommend a full volume mash or mash with fly sparge?
 
While we do not have the cold temps of Canada, I still prefer to brew indoors (in my shed) as that puts me close to the sink/water. So, I rigged up a cheap bathroom vent fan to a flexible duct that is attached to a board that I can place in a nearby window. Since the board is moveable and the duct is flexible, I can hang it from my BIAB pulley over the boiler when needed, then move it all out of the way when done boiling. Pics attached
I used to do this but found condensation pooled at the low point of the pipe, also not that keen on mains power and water around.
Changed to a condenser, much better as silent and safe.
 
The issues I have had are with stuck recirculation during the mash. What crush size do you guys recommend and how many qts per lb of grain should I aim for in the mash? I first tried 1.5qts per lb and that was hit or miss. I bumped up to 1.8qts per lb and that's been hit or miss also. Thinking I may be crushing too fine though. The Homebrew Network had a live session on Youtube last week and they recommended crushing extremely course at .054". I ended up investing in a 3rd party brew bag and that has helped tremendously! A suggestion I would love to make is to upgrade the malt pipe and remote the holes on the bottom/sides and replace them with a mesh filter such as

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-610x3...&sprefix=400+micron+cloth,aps,307&sr=8-9&th=1
It would serve 2 purposes (well three in my case lol) The first two would be to help tremendously with stuck recirculation and would keep grains out of the boiler. The third is it would be one less thing I'd have to clean after each brew ;)

Another question is do you recommend a full volume mash or mash with fly sparge?
I've done one BZ gen 4 mash so far, so grain of salt, but:
I just did ~0.30" crush and 1.8qt/lb at 152F, with absolutely no sign of stuck mash. No rice hulls. I crushed dry and dropped a grain-loaded malt pipe into strike water. I stirred thoroughly 3x and continuously recirc'd.

Recirc was throttled w ball valve to ~20% of full flow. If you don't throttle, you're probably asking for compaction.

I pulled the pipe and sparged ~ 3 gallons@ 150F after adding top plate. And 1.8qt/# felt about right for small 9# grain bill. These systems should probably use a ratio + bottom volume constant, as the bottom fill is independent of grain bill.
 
With the old BrewZilla Gen 3.1 we had requests from customers to make sure the Brewzilla would remember the previous settings so if you lost power momentarily the brewzilla would return to the same temperature that it was set at previously. This can be particularly frustrating if you are preheating water the night before and for some reason the power goes out momentarily as in this instance you want the BrewZilla to return to it's previous set point.

Before the BrewZilla units are tested we fill them with water, check for leaks and also check that they are heating water correctly. During this testing the elements are set to heat up. Then the BrewZilla units are turned off, dried and then put into box to get shipped to customers. So for the earlier BrewZilla units that were made the BrewZilla when new would already have a hot set temp to check the elements work and thus would turn on as soon as you power up the device. With that said we have highlighted this issue in our processes already and now new Brewzilla units that we make we set the temp back down to 0C before they are shipped so this doesn't happen.

We can definitely change the firmware so it would require you to hit a "confirm" button before the elements come on but I would be worried that this would be a negative for some other customers as mentioned above.

With that said we have done a lot of durability testing on the elements. Our single vessel brewery very low watt density and this also makes the elements more robust and able to handle abuse. We do tell our customers not to boil the units dry but during development of the product if you do boil dry the thermal cut out will trigger fairly quickly. Also during testing we removed the thermal cut out switch and intentionally boiled the unit dry for several hours and still the elements did not burn out. In fact to really push this point I did make an electric smoker to smoke fish and meat out of a BrewZilla too and in this testing I had the 500watt element on for 12hrs at a time with no liquid on the element and just some wood chips. I did have to remove the controller, tap and most of the components from the underside of the unit but even with the elements on for 12hrs at a time completely dry and with the thermal cut off removed the 500watt element did not burn out.

So if you have accidentally turned the unit on and it boils dry I am quite confident that it will still be fine.

I should also say I made another BrewZilla into a deep fryer too which was operating at 200C (392F) also for many hours. For this I had to remove the pump, remove electronics, remove controller and remove thermal cut out switch. I would not say this worked really well as 2.2kw of power to head up 20L deep fryer was a bit too slow and every time i put in 3kg of frozen chips the temp did drop down quite a bit and take a long time to recover. With that said it certainly did prove the elements can take a significant amount of punishment.
That definitely makes sense having it remember the last setting in case of a power blip. I have just added this to my brewday checklist to look for the elements being on when I plug it in. No big deal. Thanks for the reply.
 
This is a fair point. I will take this to the guys in production and get this resolved. We do get customers often use more than one extension too which makes this a bit complicated too as we can make the base match up with one extension but when you fit the second extension making all the levels match up becomes more difficult.
Yeah, that had crossed my mind about someone having multiple extensions. Not really seeing a good solution in that case except maybe have the volume marks but with no numbers next to them, as long as they can be placed at the correct intervals
 
I used to do this but found condensation pooled at the low point of the pipe, also not that keen on mains power and water around.
Changed to a condenser, much better as silent and safe.
In my case the unit hangs higher than the window so when it is in position, the pipe is all downhill to the window. Hopefully that will prevent pooling. We'll find out this weekend!
 
That definitely makes sense having it remember the last setting in case of a power blip. I have just added this to my brewday checklist to look for the elements being on when I plug it in. No big deal. Thanks for the reply.
Maybe if the controller has real time clock, it can check if 24 hours have elapsed? Longer than that and it defaults off.
 
The issues I have had are with stuck recirculation during the mash. What crush size do you guys recommend and how many qts per lb of grain should I aim for in the mash? I first tried 1.5qts per lb and that was hit or miss. I bumped up to 1.8qts per lb and that's been hit or miss also. Thinking I may be crushing too fine though. The Homebrew Network had a live session on Youtube last week and they recommended crushing extremely course at .054". I ended up investing in a 3rd party brew bag and that has helped tremendously! A suggestion I would love to make is to upgrade the malt pipe and remote the holes on the bottom/sides and replace them with a mesh filter such as

https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-610x3...&sprefix=400+micron+cloth,aps,307&sr=8-9&th=1
It would serve 2 purposes (well three in my case lol) The first two would be to help tremendously with stuck recirculation and would keep grains out of the boiler. The third is it would be one less thing I'd have to clean after each brew ;)

Another question is do you recommend a full volume mash or mash with fly sparge?

I personally do a fly sparge and I think the mesh would not really be a good idea as the mesh holes are quite small and you would probably find they would block more than the current 2mm diameter holes that we have in the bottom of the malt pipe.

Full volume mash or fly sparge will both work.

I rarely get stuck mash on the BrewZilla unless I am using the absolute max on the malt pipe and filling it right to the brim. My tips to avoid stuck mash are:
1. Do not overfill the malt pipe
2. Stir frequently especially in the first half of the mash in process. This really helps a lot. If you are getting a stuck mash give the whole thing a vigorous stir
4. Dont mash in too cold
5. Use rice hulls or some other lautering aid. This is last as the 4 above are really more important and I rarely use rice hulls myself but I know other customers use them and swear by them
 
Maybe if the controller has real time clock, it can check if 24 hours have elapsed? Longer than that and it defaults off.

The real time clock would require a small battery on the circuit board which is doable but eventually the battery will go flat. The Brewzilla does sync the clock to the internet but obviously this would require a solid internet connection and not everyone has internet in the brewing area.

It's certainly possible to do something like this but each solution does have some small drawbacks too.

With that said ultimately it's really not an issue and the elements can take a significant amount of abuse so if you did happen to accidentally boil dry just leave the brewery for a few minutes powered off and the bimetal thermal cut out switch will reset itself.
 
The real time clock would require a small battery on the circuit board which is doable but eventually the battery will go flat. The Brewzilla does sync the clock to the internet but obviously this would require a solid internet connection and not everyone has internet in the brewing area.

It's certainly possible to do something like this but each solution does have some small drawbacks too.

With that said ultimately it's really not an issue and the elements can take a significant amount of abuse so if you did happen to accidentally boil dry just leave the brewery for a few minutes powered off and the bimetal thermal cut out switch will reset itself.
Oh, I agree; Probably not worth extra hw or a board rev. I meant if you had one already for other reasons.

TY for the replies!
 
I've found the woe to all of my recirculation issues. It's the malt pipe false bottom. A fixed bottom malt pipe or brew bag is what is needed here. Maybe a suggested fixed bottom with the 400 micron screen combo?

Aka the false bottom lifts out. Would be really curious to see how a fixed bottom would work out. I've seen some mods on facebook where an individual secured the bottom in place with a bunch of screws.
 
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I've found the woe to all of my recirculation issues. It's the malt pipe false bottom. A fixed bottom malt pipe or brew bag is what is needed here. Maybe a suggested fixed bottom with the 400 micron screen combo?

Aka the false bottom lifts out. Would be really curious to see how a fixed bottom would work out. I've seen some mods on facebook where an individual secured the bottom in place with a bunch of screws.
Do you mean you have grain bypassing the bottom? Are you using the stamped one with no center hole/tabs? The bottom plate should be the one without a center hole or tabs. I've been facing mine bulge-up, but I'm not positive that's right.

edit: or do you just mean the holes are too big?
 
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Do you mean you have grain bypassing the bottom? Are you using the stamped one with no center hole/tabs? The bottom plate should be the one without a center hole or tabs. I've been facing mine bulge-up, but I'm not positive that's right.

edit: or do you just mean the holes are too big?
Yes. Also my plug fused to the brewzilla plug. It looks like it burnt some of the heat shrink off. Going to put this back together for now but should I look I to replacing the power cable and the power cable receptacle along with adding more heatshrink to the blue plug?
 

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It looks like the damage is minimized to the plug itself. I have cleaned up the plug receptacle with some rubbing alcohol and will be ordering a new power cord. Hoping to brew again next weekend!

In the meantime I'm going to wrap some electrical tape around the terminal where the heatshrink came off and wait on the new cord
 
Yes. Also my plug fused to the brewzilla plug. It looks like it burnt some of the heat shrink off. Going to put this back together for now but should I look I to replacing the power cable and the power cable receptacle along with adding more heatshrink to the blue plug?
Whoa.....that got HOT!!!!!!!
 
From further investigation it looks like the power cord had some corrosion on that specific contact. Guess that built up just enough resistance to bugger up that whole contact.

Here's what I ordered in case anyone else runs into this

Socket

FILSHU IEC320 C14 Panel Mount Plug Adapter AC 250V 15A 3 Pins IEC Inlet Module Plug Power Connector Socket with 3 Wires (3 PCS) Amazon.com: FILSHU IEC320 C14 Panel Mount Plug Adapter AC 250V 15A 3 Pins IEC Inlet Module Plug Power Connector Socket with 3 Wires (3 PCS) : Electronics

Cord

StarTech.com 6ft (1.8m) Heavy Duty Extension Cord, NEMA 5-15R to NEMA 5-15P Black Extension Cord, 15A 125V, 14AWG, Heavy Gauge Power Extension Cable, Heavy Duty AC Power Cord, UL Listed (PAC101146) https://a.co/d/3UQL7uH

The main thing I looked for was to match this up with 125 volt 15 amps. Both the new socket and cord are rated for that. It was a bugger getting out the old Socket. Had to chisel the tabs off the bottom with a flat head. Once those two tabs were off it slid out no problem.

On a lighter note I hit 70 percent efficiency yesterday!

Want to find a way to bolt the false bottom into place on the malt pipe. If K can keep that stationary that may remove the need for a brew bag
 
Want to find a way to bolt the false bottom into place on the malt pipe. If K can keep that stationary that may remove the need for a brew bag
the fact that you want to bolt the bottom to the malt pipe would suggest that grain is escaping around the false bottom and not through it. I would think that the weight of the grain would keep the false bottom pushed firmly down in place... unless... if the malt pipe is lifted and then lowered back in, the upward pressure of the wort as the malt pipe sinks back down could force the bottom to rise out of place and allow grains to escape around it before it settles back in place. Is that what is happening? I wonder if some pieces of stainless wire could be used as clips (through the holes in the false bottom from the underside and then around the edge of the malt pipe). That way you could still easily remove the bottom for cleaning by unclipping the wire.
 
I noticed if you have your set temp below the actual, the pump will act like it's clogged. Raise your set temp above the set and it's all smooth sailing.
 
New Gen 4 user here, I've only done a few batches.

Question for Kegland, can you run the pump at any temp or should you not use it after a particular temperature?

Drain Hack...seems like I'm not the only one with an issue draining. So far I've been able to transfer my wort fine, the problem has been with cleaning it. The water frequently stops going through the drain hole. At first I'd stick my finger in and pull it out to create a little suction to get it moving again with poor results. Then I bought one of these Plungeroo Sink Plunger

Yesterday was the first time I had a chance to use it and it worked great! Anytime the water stopped flowing it only took a couple of plunges to free up the debris and get the water draining again. Plus I can use it for my toilet. 🤪
 

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Wanted to report back that now plug and cord worked great! Brewed a kolsch this past weekend!
 
Thanks for this feedback. I have brewed quite a lot and never had the blocked pump on the BZ Gen 4 in normal brewing conditions. I tend to thing that it's not a blocked pump to be honest. In a lot of our testing it's very hard to block the pump however it's quite easy to pump the BZ dry and this may appear like a blocked pump.

For instance if you do not have enough liquid in the base of the unit the pump will pump dry and then cavitate and it may appear to be blocked.

With the Gen 4 we have optimized the malt pipe and made this larger so the malt pipe can fit more grain so higher gravity beers are easier to do. In doing this it also means for smaller batches you can actually pump all the liquid into the malt pipe and it will fit. So when this happens the bottom of the boiler is completely dry. If this is the case you should slow the pump down to say 30% or something to avoid this. So next time you brew and you think you have a blocked pump I would lift out the malt pipe up and ensure that you actually have enough liquid in the base of the boiler. (it should be above the minimum graduation on the boiler. I would be keen to hear back from you once you have tried this.

I should also say we did some unusual testing where we did block the pump but this was extremally difficult to do and we found that if you leave the pump off and mash in for a very long time (more than 6hrs) you can get fine powder/flour from the grain solidify in the base where the pump is and form a type of solidified glue. For this reason I would always recommend at least having the pump on 10% so the liquid is being agitated. To be honest this is always a good idea anyway as if you are mashing you kinda want some circulation to keep the temperature even. Even when boiling I still have the pump on at least 10% to ensure the recirculation tube gets hot too. So really my recommendation would be to always use at least 10% pump and you will avoid any issues like this. Even when heating up the hot water I generally have the pump on at least 10% to ensure I am not getting stratification in the boiler.

So besides this quite unusual condition where I mashed for a long time with no recirculation I have never blocked the pump before and I have done many brews even testing with double milled grain and loads of flour/powder in the grain bill and had no issues whatsoever.

All of my clogged pump occurrences happened after the boil ended with a full amount (~6gal) of wort in the BZ; not anywhere near dry. I was able to unclog the pump by blowing air (not optimal with hot wort) through the lower valve. In each case, a ton of grist particles bloomed into the wort from the pump lines.

I had noticed that after pulling the malt pipe, there was much more malt particles left in the boil than I ever saw with my Gen3 BZ. Not sure if the bottom screen/plate allows more particles than a Gen3, or if the increased pump strength 'pulls' more malt pieces from the grist while recirculating during the mash--same result either way. Luckily, the BrewBag completely eliminated my clogged pump issues.
 
All of my clogged pump occurrences happened after the boil ended with a full amount (~6gal) of wort in the BZ; not anywhere near dry. I was able to unclog the pump by blowing air (not optimal with hot wort) through the lower valve. In each case, a ton of grist particles bloomed into the wort from the pump lines.

I had noticed that after pulling the malt pipe, there was much more malt particles left in the boil than I ever saw with my Gen3 BZ. Not sure if the bottom screen/plate allows more particles than a Gen3, or if the increased pump strength 'pulls' more malt pieces from the grist while recirculating during the mash--same result either way. Luckily, the BrewBag completely eliminated my clogged pump issues.
I think it's something to do with the false bottom. I've found that using the false bottom with the indentions point up (think like a pyramid) instead of down (think crater) that seems to help. The only fix I've found is a brew bag. Ever since I've gotten the bag that has kept all grain out of the boil and no more clogged pumps. Now I will say it seems the efficiency may have gone down a touch. The fix is to let the grains soak in the mash water 10 minutes after the initial stir, stir again, start the mash timer, and stir every 10-15 minutes until the end of the mash with the pump running. That brought my efficiency back up to expected efficiency. It was crazy low prior to that. All brewing systems have their quirks for sure! Either way I do not regret purchasing this unit and love it for convenience :)

Edit: Have to wonder if adding rice hulls to the grains in the brew bag might help?
 
Edit: Have to wonder if adding rice hulls to the grains in the brew bag might help?
Funny you ask. I just did my first wheat beer in my Gen4 and included 8oz of rice hulls for a 3 gallon batch, as well as 5 drops of Glucabuster. Like you, I dough-in, let it sit, stir again, but then I don’t touch the grist again. I start the recirc 5-10 mins after the last stir, and slowly increase the recirc rate until there is a gentle “swirl” of wort over the top plate. Recirc flow rate was excellent. With that technique, this American Wheat hit 80% efficiency, very close to what I saw with my Gen3 BZ.

Rice hulls work and are cheap.
 
Funny you ask. I just did my first wheat beer in my Gen4 and included 8oz of rice hulls for a 3 gallon batch, as well as 5 drops of Glucabuster. Like you, I dough-in, let it sit, stir again, but then I don’t touch the grist again. I start the recirc 5-10 mins after the last stir, and slowly increase the recirc rate until there is a gentle “swirl” of wort over the top plate. Recirc flow rate was excellent. With that technique, this American Wheat hit 80% efficiency, very close to what I saw with my Gen3 BZ.

Rice hulls work and are cheap.
I originally used rice hulls but quit after moving to the brew bag. Going to have to try adding them with the bag in place for sure! Have you noticed any difference using glucabuster and if so what differences?
 
I suspect all these problems with pump clogging on the gen 4 are being caused by the T and hose to the outlet spigot. Remove the T and there would be no place for sediment to accumulate and form a plug when the pump is cycled off. The grain bags are helping because they are obviously keeping the sediment out of this portion of the plumbing.

I also think it would be helpful to know if those having problems configured the T on the inlet side of the pump or on the outlet side. I know I would find this information useful for when the Gen 4 I ordered 4 months ago finally arrives.
 
Confirmation from MoreBeer yesterday that the HEDs have shipped from the manufacturer. No ETA on when they will arrive or be available to purchase but at least they shipped.
 
I suspect all these problems with pump clogging on the gen 4 are being caused by the T and hose to the outlet spigot. Remove the T and there would be no place for sediment to accumulate and form a plug when the pump is cycled off. The grain bags are helping because they are obviously keeping the sediment out of this portion of the plumbing.

I also think it would be helpful to know if those having problems configured the T on the inlet side of the pump or on the outlet side. I know I would find this information useful for when the Gen 4 I ordered 4 months ago finally arrives.
I've seen a modification on the kegland site showing this, it's under the changing the brewzilla pump to a 25watt one I think.
 

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