Brewing panel

[drewmedic23]

So I made myself a nice control panel for my 240v biab system. After running my first batch, I discovered the manual mode of the auber 2352 doesn't work that well since it only provides the time proportional firing mode (50% is 5 secs on in a 10 sec cycle).

Auber's SSVR would do the trick if I put the PID on 100% manual and then used the SSVR to regulate the power.
But.........I like gadgets and this Digital SSR power regulator from Auber looks way cooler. Anyone have any experience with it?

 

[cfrazier77]

Also, that looks like a real good option.

 

[augiedoggy]

I'm confused by this? the manual mode on my "mypin" td4 allows me to go from 1% all the way to 100%? why would the auber be any different?

 

[drewmedic23]

As far as the manual mode, if I put it on, let's say 40%, it's not actually regulating the voltage to provide 40% power but firing the element on a 4/10 cycle which produces the aggregate 40%. Basically, the element turns on and off but slowly

 

[augiedoggy]

As far as the manual mode, if I put it on, let's say 40%, it's not actually regulating the voltage to provide 40% power but firing the element on a 4/10 cycle which produces the aggregate 40%. Basically, the element turns on and off but slowly

Yes that's the way a pwm circuit works... mine is the same way and I can dial a consistent even boil in perfectly with this... usually about 65-70%.

I think what your looking for is an scr type setup they are dirt cheap on eBay.... there's even a10000 watt digital one for under $20... they will actually vary the voltage to the element.

 

[Bill_in_VA]

PID in maunual, SCRs and SSVrs are all doing the same thing, turning the element on and off. Just SCRs and SSVRs are doing fast enough to chop the sine wave before it swings full high or low and reduce power. They create a lot more electrical noise as a result.

 

[johngaltsmotor]

Never used an Auber, but there are better options. I typically use Watlow parts (but that's due to professional connections). Instead of a defined time base many industrial controls are proportional with a minimum of 3-5 half-cycles. So 50% = 3 AC half-waves off, 3 on, 25% = 3off, 9 on, etc. It makes for a much smoother control and extends element life by switching so much faster instead of full power for seconds then no power. Unfortunately most of those PIDs require a separate SSR to handle the power. (But I've got dozens of 25-40A SSRs)

 

[drewmedic23]

Ive been looking at another thread that has some good info on Aubers new controller that I have decided to give a try. Allows the same SSR as the PID to be used and looks promising
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/new-digital-solid-state-power-relay-boil-regulation-486697/

 

[snackson]

I used mine in manual before and worked like a champ.

 

[Airplanedoc]

If I want to dial in a perfect boil, I just go to manual mode, and dial back until I get just the boil that I want. I can get a nice consistent slow roll or a rapid boil, why would the boil for fuel alcohol be any different than the boil for wort, or a shrimp boil?

 

[drewmedic23]

I was unable to get a constant boil in manual mode. The corn mash (or wort) only boils when the element is actually firing. The problem with manual mode is the minimum cycle time is 2 secs. Basically, the PID (in manual mode) doesnt fire the SSR quickly enough to maintain a boil but rather boils for 5 secs then stops for two secs.

 

[augiedoggy]

I was unable to get a constant boil in manual mode. The corn mash (or wort) only boils when the element is actually firing. The problem with manual mode is the minimum cycle time is 2 secs. Basically, the PID (in manual mode) doesnt fire the SSR quickly enough to maintain a boil but rather boils for 5 secs then stops for two secs.

that must be a limitaion of the pid your using or a setting thats causing that because mine works perfect in manual mode? It almost sounds like your pid is set to relay mode instead of ssr.

What model pid are you using? I'm using a cheap $20 mypin TD4.

 

[drewmedic23]

that must be a limitaion of the pid your using or a setting thats causing that because mine works perfect in manual mode? It almost sounds like your pid is set to relay mode instead of ssr.

What model pid are you using? I'm using a cheap $20 mypin TD4.

Its an Auber 2352, which is specifically made for an SSR. Here is the text from the manual:

4.6 Cycle time t
It is the time period (in seconds) that the controller uses to calculate its
output. e.g. When t=2, if the controller decides output should be 10%, the
heater will be on 0.2 second and off 1.8 seconds for every 2 seconds. Smaller t values result in more precision control. For SSR output, t is set at the minimum (2 seconds). For relay or contactor output, it should be set longer to prevent contacts from wearing out too soon. Normally it is set to 20-40 seconds.

 

[drewmedic23]

My panel is in pieces right now as I am upgrading to a bigger enclosure with the extra power regulator but as I looked at my PID settings, t=18 when it should be 2!!

 

[rossi46]

I was unable to get a constant boil in manual mode. The corn mash (or wort) only boils when the element is actually firing. The problem with manual mode is the minimum cycle time is 2 secs. Basically, the PID (in manual mode) doesnt fire the SSR quickly enough to maintain a boil but rather boils for 5 secs then stops for two secs.

You don't want any solids touching your element.

 

[sneakybrian]

i think most people just use a SSR and a Potentiometer. you can get a kit for like 40 bucks. IIRC it adjusts the power going to the element instead of turning it on and off.

 

[passedpawn]

I made a few snips here to get this thread back in play. Please keep this discussion about beer-making equipment. We have a rule here that we don't discuss distilling.

 

[The Pol]

It must be the PID model that you purchased... My last PID boil controller also used an Auber PID, and I was able to get a much shorter cycle time. It was the bees knees.