brewed and keged in a 1.5weeks
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cheezydemon3
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No.
cheezydemon3
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Do a stout.
Stouts are better with age, but have almost no green period due to the flavorful dark malts covering it up.
Stouts are better with age, but have almost no green period due to the flavorful dark malts covering it up.
Don't do this. To my stouts are really not all that good until about 2 months after brew day. They might not be nasty, but they will not be good.
You can easily get a basic pale beer (APA, Blonde) ready within 1.5 weeks. It will not be crystal clear (unless you want to use gelatin), but it will be done fermenting and will taste fine.
wonderbread23
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I've turned Berliner Weisse around in a week.
Probably too late for the advice, but White Labs now offers WLP090 San Diego Super Yeast. I have never used it but it is described as having the clean flavor profile of WLP001 but as fermenting faster. This may be a great yeast for people trying to get a beer done quicker.
I just have to ask, "Why?" Why nottingham (not a great choice unless you can ferment at about 62 degrees and then it takes longer), and then champagne yeast? That doesn't seem like a great way to get a quick beer.
I do it often, but usually I use a yeast strain like WLP002 that clears super quick and does a great job quickly. A mild would be a great choice to have a beer ready in 10 days. Anything higher than about 1.045 would be pushing it, but using a great clean yeast strain would help significantly.
stpug
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Nottingham (an English yeast strain) is known for it's very clean fermentation, particularly at lower temperatures. While you can some mellow esters in the upper 60s, it's forte is at lower temps for clean and almost lagery ferments. I like Nottingham, especially throughout the winter when I can put a fermenter in my garage with a blanket wrapped around it to keep in in the mid- to upper-50s. I'll use it through the spring in my basement where I can keep it up into the low 60s. After that, I put it away for 6 months until cool temps return.
I agree with the above posters that if you want a yeast strain that says "English" character then you might have been better off with a different strain (S04 is quick and flocs well but can potentially give unwanted character above mid-60s; WLP002 is another great English strain that will leave you with clear beer very quickly and just a touch of British esters).
Regardless, that's all well and good. Try to keep your nottingham around mid-60s for speed. Much higher and you might not like the results, much lower and it might take too long. Crash cool your fermenter when you've hit FG and you should be good with your choice. It'll probably stay a little cloudy but if the beer is darkish then it might not matter too much.
Forget using wine/champagne yeast. It won't help speed anything up, and probably won't do anything at all besides waste a couple bucks. Wine/champagne yeasts are suited for simple sugars. Maltose is not a simple sugar. While some simple sugars are created during a mash or found in extract, those sugars are the first consumed by brewers yeast so adding wine yeast towards the end is pointless. The sugars hardest for even beer brewers yeast to consume are what's left at the end of a fermentation - wine yeast won't know what to do with these.
Your best bet is to ferment with your nottingham in mid-60s for about 3-4 days, then let the temp rise to upper-60s for the remainder (2 days maybe), then crash cool for 3 days to drop as much yeast as possible. You might consider adding properly hydrated gelatin to the fermenter to aid in clarifying. This will put you at about 4+2+3, 9 days total. Burst carb for 24 hours at 30 psi with light agitation the first 3-4 minutes (your beer should already be really cold from crash cooling so it'll absorb the co2 fairly quickly). After 24 hours, vent the headspace in the keg, and put on serving pressure. Pull 3-4 pints to get to the clearer beer and you should be set.
You're timeline is really cutting it. I highly doubt you'll have very clear beer but who cares, as long as it tastes good. Serve it in red dixie cups and you're golden
I agree with the above posters that if you want a yeast strain that says "English" character then you might have been better off with a different strain (S04 is quick and flocs well but can potentially give unwanted character above mid-60s; WLP002 is another great English strain that will leave you with clear beer very quickly and just a touch of British esters).
Regardless, that's all well and good. Try to keep your nottingham around mid-60s for speed. Much higher and you might not like the results, much lower and it might take too long. Crash cool your fermenter when you've hit FG and you should be good with your choice. It'll probably stay a little cloudy but if the beer is darkish then it might not matter too much.
Forget using wine/champagne yeast. It won't help speed anything up, and probably won't do anything at all besides waste a couple bucks. Wine/champagne yeasts are suited for simple sugars. Maltose is not a simple sugar. While some simple sugars are created during a mash or found in extract, those sugars are the first consumed by brewers yeast so adding wine yeast towards the end is pointless. The sugars hardest for even beer brewers yeast to consume are what's left at the end of a fermentation - wine yeast won't know what to do with these.
Your best bet is to ferment with your nottingham in mid-60s for about 3-4 days, then let the temp rise to upper-60s for the remainder (2 days maybe), then crash cool for 3 days to drop as much yeast as possible. You might consider adding properly hydrated gelatin to the fermenter to aid in clarifying. This will put you at about 4+2+3, 9 days total. Burst carb for 24 hours at 30 psi with light agitation the first 3-4 minutes (your beer should already be really cold from crash cooling so it'll absorb the co2 fairly quickly). After 24 hours, vent the headspace in the keg, and put on serving pressure. Pull 3-4 pints to get to the clearer beer and you should be set.
You're timeline is really cutting it. I highly doubt you'll have very clear beer but who cares, as long as it tastes good. Serve it in red dixie cups and you're golden
I highly doubt you'll have very clear beer but who cares if it tastes good. Serve it in red dixie cups and you're golden
my thoughts exactly
tastes good
Hmmm, you ask our advice and then ignore that at least three people have told you that there is no reason to add champagne yeast. Interesting. I would listen to Yooper -- one of the most informed brewers on here who never steers us newer brewers wrong.
Champagne yeast is for restarting a stuck fermentation or drying out a beer or helping a barelywine reach it's FG, but it won't necessarily make it ferment quicker.
Good aeration, and a fast fermenting beer yeast strain and possibly a quarter teaspoon of Yeastex 82 in the boil would do more for speeding things up.
If you need it in 10 days youll gave to filter and keg as well.
Good aeration, and a fast fermenting beer yeast strain and possibly a quarter teaspoon of Yeastex 82 in the boil would do more for speeding things up.
If you need it in 10 days youll gave to filter and keg as well.
its not that i didn't listen to what you guys have said but i also did some of my own research and i wanted to here what you had to say about it. now i know unless i add a clearing agent its not going t be a clear beer. will this be an issue with clogging the keg? do i need to "filter it"? and if so how do i need to filter it?
cold crash it and you indeed will have a clear beer
I am cold crashing a pale malt SMaSH I brewed last Sunday it will be in the keg Tuesday morning put on gas drinking by Friday
it will be clear and I could have put it in the keg a bit sooner
if you use Knox gelatin you will still need to get it cold to clear
all the best
S_M
for a cold crash what temp should i be looking at and for how long? i don't have a lot of fridge space
I do a couple of days at 33 - 34 degrees , I do it in my fermenter
but you can do it in the keg, I like to leave the yeast and what have you behind
just keg the beer
all the best and good luck with your brew
S_M
but you can do it in the keg, I like to leave the yeast and what have you behind
just keg the beer
all the best and good luck with your brew
S_M
It won't plug anything up; the beer will jujst be very yeasty unless you cold crash.
If you cold crash in the keg, pour out the first pint, it should be fairly thick with yeast and clearer after that. Best if the kegs can sit undisturbed cold before the wedding as any banging around will disturb the yeast stuck to the bottom and keg walls.
If you cold crash in the keg, pour out the first pint, it should be fairly thick with yeast and clearer after that. Best if the kegs can sit undisturbed cold before the wedding as any banging around will disturb the yeast stuck to the bottom and keg walls.
stpug
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What you should have said is:
Looks and tastes fuc*ing awesome!!! It can only get better from here
The beer was vary good the wedding rection started around 6pm and both kegs were gone in about an hour and a half. It looked clowedy as hell but no one seemed to care.
Next time for 250 people they need more then 10gal
Next time for 250 people they need more then 10gal
brewmeister13
Well-Known Member
I'll say. That's like a beer for every other person. At my wedding we had an open bar and a little over 22 gallons extra in kegs, and that was for 70 people.
Anyways, glad to hear it went well.
Glad it worked out for you!
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