Brew-Boss Opinions

[Conodor]

I added a 90 degree 1.5" elbow with clamp and gasket off the dip tube and into the pump, which locates it below the kettle. Gravity will usually prime the pump.

Interesting solution. I'll have to do this before i do my final build for stand. A couple more runs and i'll be locked in on how i want to do it. Doing a brewstand and a distillery set up at the same time. 1 controller runs both so i need to keep them close in the same spot.

 

[TennBrewer]

Sweet. I like this idea. I've been struggling with the pump sticking far out from my counter. Going to looking setting this up. Do you find your pulling "extra" trub when transferring due to the lower setup?

Rarely get pump cavitation but when I do, I shut off the pump and let it "belch", works fine after that. I don't notice any extra trub but I guess it would drain into the pump after it's turned off. I usually watch the last bit of wort go by and close the valve before the thick stuff gets sucked in.

 

[TennBrewer]

This would be Brewhouse Efficiency. If you tweak the Mash temps for Dough In, Mash 1 and Mash 2 you'll get some different, sometimes better, sometimes worse results (I've been doing a lot of research on the different temps and the results). Also, in full disclosure, I always add about 2 cups of Rice Hulls for every 5 pounds of grain and mix thoroughly.

I find that raising the grains between steps and slightly squeezing out the wort keeps the BB from tunneling. Saw a definite increase in efficiency when I started doing that.

+1 on the rice hulls.

 

[TennBrewer]

BTW, here is the Step File that mimics the Zymatic High Efficiency Multi Step that I've been using comparing the two systems at 3 gallons and 15 gallons. I usually get around 72% efficiency on both machines.

2,High Efficiency Multi Step Mash,0,0,0,0,0,0,0
1,Unplug the heater from the controller,0,0,0,0,0,1,0
--snip--
1,Dough In complete remove cover disconnect hose and raise grains slowly,102,0,0,0,0,1,1
2,Heating water to Mash 1 Strike temperature,154,0,0,0,0,1,0 <================= HEATER ON TO RAISE TEMP TO 154
1,Slightly depress filter to squeeze out water,154,0,0,0,0,1,0
3,Heating water to Mash 1 Strike temperature,154,0,0,0,0,1,0 <================= SET POINT ALREADY AT 154
1,Water at Mash 1 temperature lower grains,154,0,0,0,0,1,1
1,Connect hose and place cover on kettle,152,0,0,0,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Mash 1 temperature,152,30,0,1,0,1,0 <--------------------------------- MASH 1 30 MINS @ 152
3,Mash 1 complete heating water to Mash 2 Strike temperature,154,0,1,0,0,1,0
2,Water at Mash 2 temperature,154,0,1,0,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Mash 2 temperature,154,60,0,1,0,1,0 <---------------------------------- MASH 2 60 MINS @ 154
1,Mash 2 complete remove cover disconnect hose and raise grains slowly,154,0,0,0,0,1,1
2,Pre heating to Strike Temperature for Mash Out step,177,0,0,0,0,1,0 <================MASH OUT @ 177
1,Slightly depress filter to squeeze out water,177,0,0,0,0,1,0
--snip--
1,Brewing complete,0,0,0,0,0,1,1

I have noticed that the set point can be changed with step type 1 or 3. The Documentation says that type 3 determines the set point but in actual use I have seen the heater come on a type 1 step while waiting to press the green start key.

A couple of notes here, it appears that mash step 1 and mash step 2 are about the same temperature. Is this right?

Does the strike temp for mash step 1 and 2 really need to be 2 degrees higher after the Dough In? The grains should be much warmer after the previous step and shouldn't drop the strike temp by much. I'm going to keep an eye on this.

Do you really mash out at 175 degrees? I have always used 168-170 degrees as the mash out temp. Any tannin issues?

 

[Mike Howard]

I have noticed that the set point can be changed with step type 1 or 3. The Documentation says that type 3 determines the set point but in actual use I have seen the heater come on a type 1 step while waiting to press the green start key.

A couple of notes here, it appears that mash step 1 and mash step 2 are about the same temperature. Is this right?

Does the strike temp for mash step 1 and 2 really need to be 2 degrees higher after the Dough In? The grains should be much warmer after the previous step and shouldn't drop the strike temp by much. I'm going to keep an eye on this.

Do you really mash out at 175 degrees? I have always used 168-170 degrees as the mash out temp. Any tannin issues?

Yea, I'm pretty sure that's what I've noticed as well for the Type 1 step. I'll watch it closer next time and log the actions.

This recipe is an exact duplicate of what Picobrew does for their High Efficiency Multi Step recipe, so I don't take credit for the temps and times. I created it to do side by side comparisons between my 3 gallon batches and my 15 gallon batches. It's just a good example of a standard recipe to use on the BB...obviously it should be tweaked to your own preferences.

Yea, the Mash 1 and 2 are really that close, but I typically use the George Fix method (or something really close). I imagine they do this to get some beta amylase going and then rise up to finish off the alpha amylase making a medium bodied beer. That's why I said tweak the Dough In-Mash1-Mash 2 temps to your liking.

Darin reccomended that any time your grains are out of the water, they could cool it once it goes back in. I've just made it a habit to bump up the temp 2 degrees between raising and lowering the grains. Probably not that big of a deal for this specific recipe, but for me its just something I do now.

I don't use anything above 170 in my recipes for the Mashout step once I work out the differences. However, I have not noticed any off-flavors from tannins, but that may be due to the 10 minute MO step time.

I'm still working out the temps, times and grain raising-lowering steps for my recipes, but so far I have been having pretty good luck. I have been noticing that when I empty the grains, that the center of the spent pile is not as sticky and sweet like my first couple of times brewing.

 

[Conodor]

The last 2 brews i took the lid off my cofi filter and stirred up the gain a bit because i also noticed some drier spots.

are you guys doing .75 liters of water per pound of grain? The last batch i just added some extra to make sure my grains were covered.

 

[TennBrewer]

The last 2 brews i took the lid off my cofi filter and stirred up the gain a bit because i also noticed some drier spots.

are you guys doing .75 liters of water per pound of grain? The last batch i just added some extra to make sure my grains were covered.

I do BIAB with this system, Beersmith calculates the water I need based on grain absorption and pre-boil volume required. My brew today called for 2.82 liters of water per pound of grain. I think grain/water ratio applies to other forms of mashing, ie. Infusion, Temperature, Decoction, etc. Look at it as pre-boil water required plus grain absorption. Am I missing something here?

 

[cnash]

The last 2 brews i took the lid off my cofi filter and stirred up the gain a bit because i also noticed some drier spots.

are you guys doing .75 liters of water per pound of grain? The last batch i just added some extra to make sure my grains were covered.

I've never taken the lid off the filter and stirred. Brewfather calculates how much water I need based on the volumes required but it is set to 0.24 qt/lb Grain Absorption which is about 1.294 qt/lb of Water to Grain Ratio.

I'm not sure how right I have this, but it seems to be doing ok?

 

[Mike Howard]

I usually brew 15 gallon batches and I'll use anywhere from 1.3 to 1.5 lbs per gallon.My last batch had 29 lbs of grain and 21 gallons of water. However, I never add more than 17 gallons to the kettle during Mash and then Lauter/Sparge with the remainder, otherwise it'll overflow.

 

[cnash]

I usually brew 15 gallon batches and I'll use anywhere from 1.3 to 1.5 lbs per gallon.My last batch had 29 lbs of grain and 21 gallons of water. However, I never add more than 17 gallons to the kettle during Mash and then Lauter/Sparge with the remainder, otherwise it'll overflow.

You're using slightly more than I am, if you actually calculate yours you are using approximately 0.72 gallons per lb. My last brew was 0.58 gallons per lb at 14.5 lbs and 8.42 gallons (actually used just under 8.5 eyeballed, the 8.42 is calculated in Brewfather) for a 5 Gallon batch.

If you use your 17 Gallon amount then you are right at my numbers basically (0.59 gallons per lb approximately.)

Back to my previous post the numbers I included are base numbers with nothing else factored into it.

 

[cnash]

The last 2 brews i took the lid off my cofi filter and stirred up the gain a bit because i also noticed some drier spots.

are you guys doing .75 liters of water per pound of grain? The last batch i just added some extra to make sure my grains were covered.

Are you using 0.75 liters per lb TOTAL? like for a 5 Gallon (approx. 19 liter) batch with 14lbs of grain you would use 10.5 liters? The numbers don't really work unless I am totally missing or misreading something.

 

[TennBrewer]

Yea, I'm pretty sure that's what I've noticed as well for the Type 1 step. I'll watch it closer next time and log the actions.

This recipe is an exact duplicate of what Picobrew does for their High Efficiency Multi Step recipe, so I don't take credit for the temps and times. I created it to do side by side comparisons between my 3 gallon batches and my 15 gallon batches. It's just a good example of a standard recipe to use on the BB...obviously it should be tweaked to your own preferences.

Yea, the Mash 1 and 2 are really that close, but I typically use the George Fix method (or something really close). I imagine they do this to get some beta amylase going and then rise up to finish off the alpha amylase making a medium bodied beer. That's why I said tweak the Dough In-Mash1-Mash 2 temps to your liking.

Darin reccomended that any time your grains are out of the water, they could cool it once it goes back in. I've just made it a habit to bump up the temp 2 degrees between raising and lowering the grains. Probably not that big of a deal for this specific recipe, but for me its just something I do now.

I don't use anything above 170 in my recipes for the Mashout step once I work out the differences. However, I have not noticed any off-flavors from tannins, but that may be due to the 10 minute MO step time.

I'm still working out the temps, times and grain raising-lowering steps for my recipes, but so far I have been having pretty good luck. I have been noticing that when I empty the grains, that the center of the spent pile is not as sticky and sweet like my first couple of times brewing.

----------------
I noticed that you use step type 2 to set the Set Point which then continues with the next step. A step type 7 will do the same thing and may be the better choice when you look at the step. I think it's an unintentional consequence by the manufacturer that step type 2 also sets the Set Point, maybe it wasn't supposed to do that.

 

[Mike Howard]

They are very similar for sure and could in most cases be used interchangeably. Probably a good idea to switch out some of those type 2's with a type 7 so you don't overshoot the set point maybe.

 

[Lax coach]

Fire HD tablets on sale on Woot today:

https://www.woot.com/plus/amazon-fire-hd-8-10-tablets-2?ref=w_cnt_gw_dly_img

$55 for the 2017 8-inch, $80 for the 2015 10.1-inch. Would think either would work just fine for the Brew Boss.

 

[Mike Howard]

I'm using the Fire HD 10 inch and have had zero issues. And it comes with Alexa so thats a plus.

 

[Mike Howard]

Anyone do double batches on their BB in the same day? I want to do a 20 gallon batch by brewing two 10 gallon batches and I am wondering if you clean the BB between batches? The heater coil gets pretty gunked up and obviously there is a lot of break material left over. Wondering if a quick rinse is all I need. Its not horrible if I clean it, as it only takes about an hour, but I'd be doing that twice.

 

[Lax coach]

I almost always do double batches, but I do a full teardown and clean between. If I wanted to shorten it, I'd use just the "clean with cip ball" recipe, then a couple of rinses. I think I could be ready for the second batch in about 20 mins that way. Probably more like 25 minutes for you since your unit is a little bigger than mine, and would take a touch longer to heat the water.

Pay VERY careful attention to that recipe when you start draining the water, as it has you intentionally dry-fire the element. I toggle it off manually 1-2 seconds after that step begins.

 

[Mike Howard]

I use that recipe all of the time but only up until the clean is done. Then I stop the recipe and turn on the pump for about 10 more minutes, no heat. I do my rinses manually and do not rely on the recipe. I'll have to look at it closer and just make the necessary corrections to it.

So between batches you break down all of the sanitaries, the pump and clean the COFI? I'm thinking I can get away with just doing a quick rinse of everything and go to the next batch. I am talking about duplicate batches here...not two different ones.

 

[andrewmaixner]

either way, quick water rinse and maybe brush the element if it doesn't look cleanish. Don't overthink it. It's all hot-side.

 

[Mike Howard]

either way, quick water rinse and maybe brush the element if it doesn't look cleanish. Don't overthink it. It's all hot-side.

Exactly what I was thinking...just wondering if anyone had any issues with heating if the element was pretty gunked up. I'm doing the double batch Thursday or Friday so I guess I'll find out. 12 hour brew day here I come...woohoo.

 

[cnash]

How often do you guys break down the pump?
I broke mine down for the first time before my last brew day and it looks spotless.
After every brew day I disassemble everything and clean (except the threaded parts).
The element is slightly a pain to clean completely, but I found that thin scrubbies and oxyclean work pretty well. I have also used BKF once and it worked pretty well as well.

 

[Mike Howard]

I just broke down my pump for the first time last week, just to take a look. Looked fine. I usually find that if the heating element is really gunked up, a long soak in PBW makes it come right off. I've basically just incorporated that into my cleaning now so I don't ever worry about it now. Put on CIP ball, throw in all parts, bring water to 150, add PBW, cycle for 20 minutes, shut system down, come back in an hour or so and repeat. Drain, rinse everything with fresh water and wipe it down. Ready for next brew day.

 

[Lax coach]

So between batches you break down all of the sanitaries, the pump and clean the COFI? I'm thinking I can get away with just doing a quick rinse of everything and go to the next batch. I am talking about duplicate batches here...not two different ones.

I do a full breakdown, but I'm usually doing two different beers, so I want it pretty darn clean. Most of my batches, I think I could get away with another one with some light scrubbing, without losing too much heating efficiency. Exceptions would be high-gravity brews or those with rye or adjuncts like flaked corn, which tend to cause a greater buildup. Or if I decide not to use my hop spider, everything gets NASTY with hop residue.

Give it a try, I think you'll be ok.

How often do you guys break down the pump?
I broke mine down for the first time before my last brew day and it looks spotless.
After every brew day I disassemble everything and clean (except the threaded parts).
The element is slightly a pain to clean completely, but I found that thin scrubbies and oxyclean work pretty well. I have also used BKF once and it worked pretty well as well.

I have never broken down the pump. On my last brew day, I ran out of time to complete a full clean, so I had to let the hot PBW sit overnight before completing my rinse the next morning. Everything was shiny as new.

 

[cnash]

How many of you leave the top off your COFI and stir occasionally?
I have not done this but I am thinking about trying it on my next brew.

 

[jturman35]

How often do you guys break down the pump?
I broke mine down for the first time before my last brew day and it looks spotless.
After every brew day I disassemble everything and clean (except the threaded parts).
The element is slightly a pain to clean completely, but I found that thin scrubbies and oxyclean work pretty well. I have also used BKF once and it worked pretty well as well.

I break my pump down if I don’t have time to run PBW through my system. It can get disgusting if you just rinse with water. Mold will grow inside the propeller housing and inside the propeller itself.

A stainless sponge like for cleaning dishes is your friend when cleaning the element. It allows you to squeeze through tight spaces. I wouldn’t use it on the kettle.

 

[jturman35]

How many of you leave the top off your COFI and stir occasionally?
I have not done this but I am thinking about trying it on my next brew.

I never use the top anymore until I get ready to hoist the basket. I usually heat my strike water on with the empty basket already placed the kettle hooked up and turn the valve on slightly with the infusion running while I add and stir my grain. This helps break up the dough balls.

 

[Mike Howard]

I leave my top on all the time. I never stir the grains, but I do raise and lower my grains between mash steps to prevent tunneling and reset the grain bed. Seems to work pretty well for multi-step mashes.

 

[cnash]

Anyone using the Condenser-Boss or Steam Slayer on their Brew-Boss setup?
Looking for pictures and feedback.

 

[Lax coach]

I use a steam-slayer with every brew. No pictures at the moment, but I can take some during my next brew session.

One sticking point is that the accessory port hole on my kettle is mounted just a touch too high for the lid to get a really good seal. So if I don't have everything just right, steam escapes around the perimeter. I mounted the accessory port inside-out, and that helps a little bit (outside fitting is ever so slightly smaller), but not perfect. Still works well enough though. I drain into 2.5 gallon buckets, and have to replace them probably 5 times in a 60-minute boil. I boil at 28%.

 

[brewswithshoes]

How many of you leave the top off your COFI and stir occasionally?
I have not done this but I am thinking about trying it on my next brew.

This times 10. I've stopped using the top except for hoisting, and am now stirring throughout mash.

I think first time I did this i saw mash efficiency jump by close to 10 percent. I used to throttle the pump back and forth thru the mash to reset the channels/grain bed, but stirring beats that for efficiency.

 

[cnash]

This times 10. I've stopped using the top except for hoisting, and am now stirring throughout mash.

I think first time I did this i saw mash efficiency jump by close to 10 percent. I used to throttle the pump back and forth thru the mash to reset the channels/grain bed, but stirring beats that for efficiency.

I did this yesterday for the first time and I went up to 84% efficiency. It’s awesome.

 

[cnash]

For more "detail". I left the top off for most of the duration of the mash, left the pump wide open and stirred every 10 minutes. After the mash was complete. (My process involves heat up to 168 (on the way to the boil) and remove the grains). When it starts that heat up I put the cover on and keep the pump running, then raise when complete.
It was great and I will continue doing it this way now.

 

[cnash]

I did have a program issue, maybe someone can help.
I changed my standard brew day program (removed the 10 minute mash out) and for some reason it starts skipping steps.
Here is the procedure, anyone see any issues?

1,Fill kettle with water,0,0,0,0,0,1,0
1,Place cover on kettle and then open the valve,0,0,0,0,0,1,0
3,Heating water to Strike Temperature of 154 degrees,154,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Water at Strike Temperature. Please close valve and add grains,152,0,0,0,0,1,1
1,Place cover on kettle and then open the valve,152,0,0,0,0,1,0
3,Heating to Mash Temperature of 152 degrees,152,0,0,1,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Mash Temperature of 152 degrees,152,60,0,1,0,1,0
3,Heating to Mash Out Temperature of 168 degrees,168,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Mash complete. Please close the valve and remove cover,168,0,0,0,0,1,1
1,Please remove the grain,212,0,0,0,0,1,1
3,Heating wort to boil,220,0,1,0,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Boil for 50 minutes,220,50,1,0,0,1,0
1,Add chiller & whirlpool arm & open valve,220,0,1,0,0,1,1
4,Maintaining Boil for 10 minutes,220,10,1,1,0,1,0
1,Boil Complete. ,68,0,0,0,0,1,1
5,Recirculate and chill until 68 degrees,68,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Brewing complete. Transfer to primary fermenter then add yeast.,0,0,0,0,0,1,1

 

[TennBrewer]

This site may help you out some.. It is a Brew Boss Step Generator. I use this site when I am setting up a step file for a new brew. It starts you off with all the basic steps already there and is easily edited to whatever steps are needed for your particular brew.

http://brewingintheburgh.com/brew-boss/index.html

Warning: the 6th line from the bottom contains a comma in the text-to-speech column and must be removed. This will generate an extra parameter and render the step file invalid. Also, the last two lines contain invalid characters and should be removed.

 

[TennBrewer]

I did have a program issue, maybe someone can help.
I changed my standard brew day program (removed the 10 minute mash out) and for some reason it starts skipping steps.
Here is the procedure, anyone see any issues?

1,Fill kettle with water,0,0,0,0,0,1,0
1,Place cover on kettle and then open the valve,0,0,0,0,0,1,0
3,Heating water to Strike Temperature of 154 degrees,154,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Water at Strike Temperature. Please close valve and add grains,152,0,0,0,0,1,1
1,Place cover on kettle and then open the valve,152,0,0,0,0,1,0
3,Heating to Mash Temperature of 152 degrees,152,0,0,1,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Mash Temperature of 152 degrees,152,60,0,1,0,1,0
3,Heating to Mash Out Temperature of 168 degrees,168,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Mash complete. Please close the valve and remove cover,168,0,0,0,0,1,1
1,Please remove the grain,212,0,0,0,0,1,1
3,Heating wort to boil,220,0,1,0,0,1,0
4,Maintaining Boil for 50 minutes,220,50,1,0,0,1,0
1,Add chiller & whirlpool arm & open valve,220,0,1,0,0,1,1
4,Maintaining Boil for 10 minutes,220,10,1,1,0,1,0
1,Boil Complete. ,68,0,0,0,0,1,1
5,Recirculate and chill until 68 degrees,68,0,0,1,0,1,0
1,Brewing complete. Transfer to primary fermenter then add yeast.,0,0,0,0,0,1,1

I see where you removed the type 4 statement for the Mash Out duration but you left in the previous type 3 statement which raises the temperature set point to 168 degrees. Although the Brew-Boss Operations manual does not mention it, I think it is looking for the next type 4 statement which is found 4 lines down causing the intervening steps to be skipped. Just a guess but that's all I can tell from this.

 

[cnash]

I see where you removed the type 4 statement for the Mash Out duration but you left in the previous type 3 statement which raises the temperature set point to 168 degrees. Although the Brew-Boss Operations manual does not mention it, I think it is looking for the next type 4 statement which is found 4 lines down causing the intervening steps to be skipped. Just a guess but that's all I can tell from this.

How could o possibly fix that without reading the mashout?

 

[jturman35]

What is everyone getting for boil off per hour? I’m settled in at about 61-63% power which gets me 1.32gph. Curious what everyone else was getting? I’m using the 15gal system.

 

[h22lude]

I use 35% power with a lid on about 95% of the way and get .75gph. This gives me good movement within the wort without having popping bubbles coming out everywhere.

 

[cnash]

I’m getting just over 1gph boil off.

 

[TennBrewer]

How could o possibly fix that without reading the mashout?

I presume you mean to ask how to fix it. Remove the type 3 line:
"3,Heating to Mash Out Temperature of 168 degrees,168,0,0,1,0,1,0"