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Blichmann QuickCarb (New from HomebrewCon 2016)

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Qhrumphf

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How are you gauging that it's running at half power? Are you seeing insufficient flow through the tubing? I would assume that a slower flow would mean that carbonation times t1would take longer.
As observed through tubing. And yes, takes longer to carb.

Power supply is a short somewhere in the wiring I haven't identified. Takes some.play to get it to turn on.

And interesting that power supply may impact the pump strength (makes sense). Although this is the commercial one, not DIY.

It.worked fine (when it would turn on) until one day it didnt.
 

JDWebb

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120v to a light switch. On, Off, simple! It takes a good hour or more. I start at 5 lbs psi and move it up 2 lbs until I get to 14lbs and burp the keg periodically until it just spews foam, then just let it run.
 

augiedoggy

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As observed through tubing. And yes, takes longer to carb.

Power supply is a short somewhere in the wiring I haven't identified. Takes some.play to get it to turn on.

And interesting that power supply may impact the pump strength (makes sense). Although this is the commercial one, not DIY.

It.worked fine (when it would turn on) until one day it didnt.
that need to have a certian minimum amp rating or the pump will run slower.. My pump requires 5 or 7 amps if I remember right... I actually use my motorcycle battery with a charger connected until I get around to getting a large enough 12v power supple and when I turn off my charger so it just runs on the battery you can hear it slow down.
 

Qhrumphf

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that need to have a certian minimum amp rating or the pump will run slower.. My pump requires 5 or 7 amps if I remember right... I actually use my motorcycle battery with a charger connected until I get around to getting a large enough 12v power supple and when I turn off my charger so it just runs on the battery you can hear it slow down.
Right, lower power obviously equals slower flow. However as this is a short and zero vs full power and not a reduction, I think my two issues are independent of each other.
 

augiedoggy

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Right, lower power obviously equals slower flow. However as this is a short and zero vs full power and not a reduction, I think my two issues are independent of each other.
I dont doubt that... Sorry I wasnt suggesting it was necessarily your issue, I was mainly just putting it out there for clarification because just like the DC wort pump threads these dc pumps sometimes get underpowered by their owners who sometimes give them a bad rap because of it... A lot of folks dont realize how amperage is important along with the proper voltage. if your power supply is struggling to keep up it strains everything , creates more heat and often causes early failures usually in the power supply. Again, not implying thats necessarily what happened in your case.
 

marjen

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I am having a weird issue where my quick carb does not seem to actually be carbing. Noticed with my last few batches that the beer was still always a bit flat after carbing and took a few more days in the keg to get to proper carb levels. My latest batch I quick carbed not once but twice for about 50 mins and it is still flat. Beer is at about 40 degrees f. Not sure what is going on. Its being pumped through the unit correctly. Any ideas?
 

Dcpcooks

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I am having a weird issue where my quick carb does not seem to actually be carbing. Noticed with my last few batches that the beer was still always a bit flat after carbing and took a few more days in the keg to get to proper carb levels. My latest batch I quick carbed not once but twice for about 50 mins and it is still flat. Beer is at about 40 degrees f. Not sure what is going on. Its being pumped through the unit correctly. Any ideas?

Clogged stone? Vinyl tube pinched? Not using the chart? Temp is warmer than you think? Or you've over pressurized the keg during the purge which is limiting the flow out of the co2 tank. Just a few ideas.

I'd start with the purge pressure
 

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marjen—

Blichmann says it carbs most of the way, like 75% or so. I generally pump the pressure to 2x what I want for an hour or two, then let it rest. It's good the next day.

Something about the process seems to require the extra time. It's like it's a good start, but not the whole deal. I wonder if theCO2 gets infused as bubbles, but doesn't really get absorbed for a bit.
 

highland_brewer

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marjen—

Blichmann says it carbs most of the way, like 75% or so. I generally pump the pressure to 2x what I want for an hour or two, then let it rest. It's good the next day.

Something about the process seems to require the extra time. It's like it's a good start, but not the whole deal. I wonder if theCO2 gets infused as bubbles, but doesn't really get absorbed for a bit.
Not sure what you mean by blichmann says it only carbs by 75%. What they say is you should run it for 45 minutes and then check your carbonation if you need to run it for longer after an hour then you can. One of the things that I do to get my carbonation achieved is after I hook up the unit and get everything started I like to purge the CO2 from the headspace so that the pressure is not equalised and then half way through the carbonation process I do the same thing to make sure that the CO2 is being forced into the solution running passed the stone. I began doing that method when I started noticing that about 30 minutes after starting the force carbonation the beer in the return line was not showing very many bubbles. I have carbonated a lot of beer with mine and never had any issues with under carbonation if you follow those tips.

That is with the blichmann version, can't speak to the ability of DIY versions.
 

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Not sure what you mean by blichmann says it only carbs by 75%. What they say is you should run it for 45 minutes and then check your carbonation if you need to run it for longer after an hour then you can. One of the things that I do to get my carbonation achieved is after I hook up the unit and get everything started I like to purge the CO2 from the headspace so that the pressure is not equalised and then half way through the carbonation process I do the same thing to make sure that the CO2 is being forced into the solution running passed the stone. I began doing that method when I started noticing that about 30 minutes after starting the force carbonation the beer in the return line was not showing very many bubbles. I have carbonated a lot of beer with mine and never had any issues with under carbonation if you follow those tips.

That is with the blichmann version, can't speak to the ability of DIY versions.
from the research I did before building mine I learned that many owners said even the blichmann version required the keg sit overnight before the carbonation tastes right. People have commented its something to do with the way it absorbes into the beer and bubble size... I know freshly forced carbed beer will often have that carbonic bite to it at first which effects flavor. I thought I remembered blichmann saying something about the beer needing to site and equalize as well

Your the first person I recall saying its good to go and perfectly carbed right after you remove it from the quick carb.. I believe your method of removing the charged head space and allowing the co2 to more effectively penetrate the beer helps... This Makes total sense releasing head space pressure was something I tried to do on the last beer I used it on but it still tasted off to me till the next day. I believe blichman uses a 7micron stone and mines a 5? I cant remember I just remember mine was close but not exact.(Of course it was also $100 or so cheaper)
Honestly I havent bothered to use my quickcarb on any of my recenty beers because time wasnt a huge factor.. I do have a halloween party coming up and a marzen which is lagering I may try it on.
 

seabush

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I have had a quick carb for over a year now and I have never been thrilled with its ability to carb properly. I have been very happy with its ability to transfer from my fermenter, through a filter and into a keg. But after reading the whole thread I think I will set it 5 psi higher than the chart and fully burp every 15 mins for an hour. But my only question is this, when you let it sit overnight, on pressure. Do you use the chart presssure or the chart pressure with an added 5 psi?
 

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I have had a quick carb for over a year now and I have never been thrilled with its ability to carb properly. I have been very happy with its ability to transfer from my fermenter, through a filter and into a keg. But after reading the whole thread I think I will set it 5 psi higher than the chart and fully burp every 15 mins for an hour. But my only question is this, when you let it sit overnight, on pressure. Do you use the chart presssure or the chart pressure with an added 5 psi?
You use it to trasnfer from fermentor to keg? What filter are you using?
 

seabush

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You use it to trasnfer from fermentor to keg? What filter are you using?


I am using a DuPont WFPF13003B cheap 10 inch water filter. I had to find an appropriate fitting. I think it’s a 1 inch NPT.

I suck from my fermenter and push through the filter using either a disposable 5 micron or stainless steel 2 micron into a keg. I then throw both fitting on the keg and carb it up
 

Gustatorian

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I am using a DuPont WFPF13003B cheap 10 inch water filter. I had to find an appropriate fitting. I think it’s a 1 inch NPT.

I suck from my fermenter and push through the filter using either a disposable 5 micron or stainless steel 2 micron into a keg. I then throw both fitting on the keg and carb it up
Post a video next time you do it. I gotta see this in action.
 

Gustatorian

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I am using a DuPont WFPF13003B cheap 10 inch water filter. I had to find an appropriate fitting. I think it’s a 1 inch NPT.

I suck from my fermenter and push through the filter using either a disposable 5 micron or stainless steel 2 micron into a keg. I then throw both fitting on the keg and carb it up
You're not using this for heavily dry-hopped beers, right? I assume hops would clog up the filter fairly quickly. Also, how do you flush the filter with CO2?
 

seabush

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You're not using this for heavily dry-hopped beers, right? I assume hops would clog up the filter fairly quickly. Also, how do you flush the filter with CO2?


I actually I have done some decently dry hopped beer. Off the top of my head I would say I have probably had at least 3-4 oz in the fermenter before.

So I guess this is my secret. I have a conical with a mason jar collection vessel at the bottom. I also have a Craig’s list fridge which gives me the ability to cold crash/ and use gelatins findings a few days prior to kegging. With these powers combined, the beer is already decently clear before i filter, keg, and carb.

After I run sanitizer through the quickcarb and filter I connect my co2 to the pump I let and give it a few psi (maybe 5psi). Turn the pump on and let the co2 purge out the starsan. I turn the filter upside down in order to get all the starsan out. I used to disconnect the beer inlet qd and collect/discard the first little bit of starsan/beer mixture when I start the transfer, but lately I’ve just been going straight to the keg, I don’t think there is enough starsan to make a difference.

I will make a video next time I do it.
 

Todes

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What can go wrong if I am carbonating a half full keg with this device?
 

-CHRIS-

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I was looking at the same setup (carb cap + liquid/gas connections) - how do you sanitize/backflush the stone?
If you pinch the liquid out hose, it will pump the cleaning solution back through the carbonation stone.

When I am done carbonating for the day, I pump around a gallon of warm fresh water through the unit dumping the water down the drain. I then run a solution of PBW through the unit for 30 minutes or so. Do another fresh water wash and let it dry and put it away.

Chris
 

-CHRIS-

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I am having a weird issue where my quick carb does not seem to actually be carbing. Noticed with my last few batches that the beer was still always a bit flat after carbing and took a few more days in the keg to get to proper carb levels. My latest batch I quick carbed not once but twice for about 50 mins and it is still flat. Beer is at about 40 degrees f. Not sure what is going on. Its being pumped through the unit correctly. Any ideas?
Is the output hose white with CO2 bubbles? When you first turn on the pump, there should be a huge difference between the input and output hoses. You also need to make sure the pressure is a few PSI above your target co2 volumes due to the pressure losses in the CO2 stone.

I just used my carbonator yesterday on a milkshake IPA. The beer was 40 degrees and I dialed in 14PSI on the regulator. An hour later, there were no bubbles in the hose and the beer was perfectly carbonated. Like other posters mentioned, the beer tastes like crap, but really comes together 36-48 hours after carbonating.

Chris
 

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Had some issues on the 2nd run last night (DIY version). I recirculated w/ starsan & purged the stone - then I hooked it up to a keg that I had just filled from a fermenter (so the temp was around 68F). I didn't follow the Blichmann instructions verbatim though:
(after sanitation - I ran the pump outside of starsan, sucking in air, to clear excess sanitizer):
1) Hook up beer/co2 lines from pump & co2 line to stone
2) Turn on CO2
3) Start pump

I noticed after a couple minutes that there was some beer in the CO2 line prior to the oxidation stone (between the stone & the regulator), and there was some beer leaking at the tee, but the saturation line back into the keg had no bubbles at all, at any point. Anyone experience this? Do you guys run the pump until beer comes out then hook it to the CO2 on the keg (step 9/10 on the blichmann instructions)?

Pressure did build up in the keg (I purged it while it was running), but after 30min, it wasn't much. I took apart the tee, and attached another CO2 line to the carbonation stone, and it sounded like CO2 came out fine, so I don't think it was clogged (I cleaned it well after the first use). I just don't see what steps 9/10 buy you, short of clearing out any excess sanitizer that the CO2 purge didn't.
 

Luis Mendieta

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Hi guys, first time user of the quick carb here. I ran mine and worked amazing but bubbling stopped only after 5-10 minutes, I cant spot any leaks with soapy water so I am wondering if this is maybe normal?? I left it for the entire 60 minutes now I am waiting a couple of hours before tasting the brew.
 

jimmer

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Hi guys, first time user of the quick carb here. I ran mine and worked amazing but bubbling stopped only after 5-10 minutes, I cant spot any leaks with soapy water so I am wondering if this is maybe normal?? I left it for the entire 60 minutes now I am waiting a couple of hours before tasting the brew.
Luis—

Welcome to the world of EZ Carbing!

I'd suggest you take the time to read this whole thread, you'll get lots of information that will make you more confident, save you time, and give you a better sense of options.

When your brew comes up to pressure, the Blichmann will stop bubbling. Keep running it for a bit— they say 45 min. total. I usually give it more because I can, if no other reason— I rarely carb that closely back-to-back. I often leave it overnight, and sometimes have forgotten it for a couple days.

I carbonate at 25 psi and use a short hose to tap at 8-13 psi. I let the CO2 integrate, and blow off the extra pressure if it comes out too frothy. I figure with my fridge temp, this gives me about 1 atmosphere. I'm not terribly picky about this.

The carbonation will be better, more integrated, more stable, the next day, but if you are impatient, go for it and drink right away. I've never noticed much difference in flavor as some claim, but I definitely notice a different mouth feeling, which is probably from the chemical reaction of CO2 actually dissolving in the water to make carbonic acid instead of remaining as small bubbles.

Sometimes I step up the pressure in a couple increments, but it really doesn't seem to be necessary. What I love about this system (or its homemade equivalents) is that it's fast and easy, very little bother. I do turn on the pump and let the lines fill before connecting the gas. I figure the more microbubbles, vs. CO2 in the headspace, the quicker the carbonic acid forms and carbonation is done.

My only twist was to get an extra power supply, so one is near the fridge I carb in and one is near the sink where I pump it clean. I typically rinse then CIP (clean in place) with cleanser followed by sanitizer, instead of disassemble as recommended.
 
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BitterSweetBrews

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I have used my a few times and I have never really had the carbonic bite issue to the point of it being a problem. Maybe the smaller bubbles are better for this. I do usualy let it sit for a few hour before drinking. It is better in a day or two. I use a 2 micron stone and found that I have to go at least 5 lbs above the chart pressure. Here is a vidio I posted on my YouTube channel (please subscribe):

 

pipelespaul

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This was my process too. 1.5 volumes with the quick carb, switched over to beer gas (25/75) and 52 PSI (based on the link previously given). Beer pours beautifully, long-lasting head. Carb level has maintained, as well.

View attachment 376964
So what is the actual A,B,C QuickCarb process to nitro a beer? I might have missed a concise answer to the original posted. My question as well.
 

thecraftbeerdoc

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Read through this discussion, I have built a DIY version to quick carb because I'm impatient. Does this seem like the CO2 agitates the flow too much post carb stone? This was at about 15 psi.

 

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Has anyone use the quick carb with a 1.6 gallon torpedo keg? I am splitting a batch into 2 kegs and wonder how long to carb it for.... thinking 20 minutes?
 
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