Benefits and Disadvantages of Single Vessel Brewing Systems

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Not every homebrewer is a die-hard Do-It-Yourselfer. I mean sure, most of us feel the call occasionally – it’s probably the same brain wiring that makes us want to brew beer instead of buying it at the store. But there’s a big difference between screwing a bulkhead into a cooler, and that guy in your homebrew club who welded together a brew sculpture out of old kegs and bike parts so the whole thing looks like something out of Mad Max (and then he named it Mad Max, because the “Max” is for Max-imum efficiency, bro!). Maybe your skills are lacking, or your tool shed isn't equipped to weld a masterpiece. Or maybe you just don’t have room for an awesome homemade setup, but you still want to brew all-grain. If that’s you, you may be eyeing a single vessel brewing system like the Grainfather or PicoBrew, but aren’t sure if they’re a worthwhile investment. This article will hopefully answer some of your questions about the advantages and disadvantages of all-in-one systems and help you decide whether they’re right for you.
Having brewed on both a basic, homemade, single-infusion cooler all-grain system and on a Grainfather, I have some experience with both. After years of brewing on my homemade system, I invested in a Grainfather. I needed an indoor brewing option after my second child was born because it became that much harder for me to leave my wife alone in the house for an entire day of brewing. I still brew on both systems, but there are times when the Grainfather is absolutely an asset to my brewing arsenal.

Advantages of Single Vessel Brewing Systems


The Grainfather at fly sparging time, with additional Sparge Water Heater (top).
Simplicity
Both Grainfather and PicoBrew are single vessel brewing systems that offer a quick, easy way to start all-grain brewing with little manual labor and clear directions. This is great for those who don’t have the time or the DIY chops to build their own system, or who just want to be the next Vinnie Cilurzo, not the next Tim "The Tool Man" Taylor. The Grainfather even has a smartphone app that makes brew day easy by storing recipes, calculating strike water and sparge water volume (and temperature), and timing mashes, mash-outs, boil time and boil additions. It doesn’t replace all the software tools I use on brew day, but it does a lot. The PicoBrew Zymatic one-ups this by being automated through a web browser control panel.
Size
If you don’t have a backyard or need an indoor option for any reason, all-in-one systems are compact enough to use without blocking your family’s access to the kitchen (or the kegerator!) and take up less storage space between brew days. The Grainfather’s footprint is about the same as any carboy or fermenting vessel. The PicoBrew Zymatic and soon-to-be-released Pico system fit on a countertop. It’s a great way to get in a brew session even if you need to be inside … such as to watch the kids, or the game.
Integration
Everything in the system is designed to work together. No running off into a kettle only to find that the hole you drilled for your bulkhead is a hair too wide and you’re leaking wort. No concerns that the pump you bought isn’t strong enough to push your wort through the counterflow chiller and up into the fermenter. Brew day is pretty predictable and troubleshooting is simple. However, because it’s all one unit, fixing one component if something ever breaks is likely to be harder (see below). The PicoBrew Zymatic even runs the wort off into a keg for you for fermentation and packaging in the same keg; some brewers will probably find this a bit too hands-off, but for others, it may be just what the brewmaster ordered.
Versatility
Because the system is electric and directly heated, you can employ brewing techniques that aren’t always easy on a basic 2 or 3-vessel infusion system. Mashes stay at target temperatures. Step mashes and mash-outs are a breeze – no more calculating how many quarts of boiling water to add, only to panic when you overshoot your target. The Grainfather is also built for fly sparging, with a grain basket that lifts out of the mash easily and safely, though you’ll still need an additional vessel for heating sparge water (see below). The Grainfather is also more manual than the PicoBrew, so it’s easy to draw off part of a mash for decoction or draw off wort to caramelize in a separate pot for something like a wee heavy. Of course you’ll need additional pots for this and have to do it on the kitchen stove, but since the Grainfather sits comfortably in the kitchen you can keep an eye on it easily while you’re doing this.

Disadvantages of Single Vessel Brewing Systems


Price
The Grainfather retails for about $900 USD, and you’ll still need an additional vessel for heating sparge water. Grainfather offers an electric one for $170 USD that works great, but any pot that holds around 4 gallons (15-16 liters) will do. The PicoBrew Zymatic retails for over twice as much – around $2000 USD – but it’s much more automated, if that’s what you’re looking for.
Proprietary Components
As noted above, everything is designed to work together, and that is a good thing. But it can also be a drawback because if something breaks on the unit, it will be much harder to fix than just replacing one component you picked up at your local homebrew store. However, the Grainfather is open-ended enough to be modified in small ways. I added a hop spider to mine because the hop screen on the pump intake gets clogged easily (not just on aggressively hopped IPAs, we’re talking dry stouts as well) but a hop spider is cheap and easy to make even for a DIY newbie like me. And I don’t think it will be hard to replace the Grainfather’s rather lightweight counter-flow chiller with a hardier version or a plate chiller someday.
The Grainfather control panel allows for easy setting or changing of mash rest temperatures.

Batch Size
The Grainfather is designed for 5-6 gallon (19-23 liter) batches and the grain basket can comfortably hold 20 pounds (9 kg) of grain, so it should have no trouble making most 5-gallon worts even upwards of 1.090 OG. If you want to brew larger batches, the Grainfather is not for you; and if you’re in the mood for a barleywine or quad you may have to scale the batch size down a little bit. In this department, though, the Grainfather has a clear advantage over the PicoBrew Zymatic which brews only 2.5 gallons (9.5 liters), or the Pico system which will be even smaller.

Boil Vigor
I include this one because I’ve seen a lot of questions on the Internet about the Grainfather’s ability to bring 7-8 gallons (27-30 liters) of pre-boil wort to a rolling boil, especially in the United States where our 110V AC circuits cap the unit’s maximum wattage below what it gets in its native New Zealand. It’s true that the boil doesn’t roll and roar like a malty Mount Vesuvius, so if you’re looking for that kind of excitement you may be disappointed. But from my experience, this has not caused problems in my finished beer. I reach a boil in about 15 minutes after sparging, my hot breaks are impressive, my boil-offs hit my OG target, and I have great hop utilization and no DMS. The PicoBrew, on the other hand, does not even reach a boil – operating just below boiling point, though hot enough to isomerize hop alpha acids.
Bragging Rights
Okay, you don’t have the pride of showing your friends your homebrew setup and saying “I built that.” But if you’re the kind of person for whom DIY projects are stressful or unfeasible, you’ll be happy just to be brewing good beer. And isn’t that why we do it?
No matter what you use to brew, the most important thing is that you enjoy the final product.
In general, single vessel brewing systems like the Grainfather and PicoBrew make good beer, and they offer a worthy alternative for the homebrewer who wants to brew all-grain but can’t or won’t go a more traditional route. That convenience comes at a cost, and depending on the option you choose you may also sacrifice some of the hands-on aspects of homebrewing. But as with almost everything in homebrewing – where there are at least two ways to do everything – there is no real right or wrong, only trade-offs and factors to consider in pursuit of the one goal all homebrewers have in common: the goal to brew a great glass of beer.
Shawn is the writer behind the blog " My Brew Home " , where you can find his latest recipes and brewing adventures.
All-in-one-2.jpg
 
Nothing mentioned about The Braumeister which has been around before the Grainfather so this article is not true representation of single vessel brewing and BIAB is single vessel brewing also..
 
Hi Shawnbou,
That makes sense. If I was going to get into no-sparge brewing then I could get away without a HLT altogether. I'm thinking of getting a GF because space is a big issue for me. The Braumeister seems to be overkill so this seems perfect.
I've heard that decoction is very difficult to pull off with a BM, I don't know if I'll ever do it but am curious if its possible using a GF.
 
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?p=7206971#post7206971 this is a rough diagram of what I did....but I believe changes have been made to the connections since this one and not sure it will work exactly but probably the concept is the same.
and hopefully this link will show the picture
https://www.dropbox.com/sc/tndc9siflo4xicn/AAA5chGFdUxRESIPc-JcTZpua
If not and you need one, PM me and I will send it.
 
Hi Shawn,
Nice article. As you might expect, there are a lot of Grainfather owners here in NZ. The early models had some issues but the company that makes them is very responsive and listens to, and often implements, customer input. The latest model, especially the upgraded wort chiller, looks quite nice and is still considered good value locally. The Braumeister is well thought of here as well but too expensive for most of us and limited to those who want to do 60 L batches...and have the spare cash.
The main reason for my post is to mention the modification a few of us have done. The STC-200 controller that comes with the Grainfather works fine but doesn't allow much automation. If an owner is keen and technically inclined, it can be replaced with a programmable version of the STC-1000 with the single vessel firmware offered free here https://github.com/matsstaff/stc1000p. With this you can automate stepped mashing and include alarms for hop additions, much like the Braumeister. It also has the advantage of being easily reversible. There is a short write up on the process at http://homebrewery.nz/process/grainfather-stc-1000/. Note our units are 230 VAC.
This is the same STC-1000 that many people use to control a fermentation chamber (including me) but with different firmware offered on the same site.
cheers
 
Hi Liam - I haven't done a decoction yet, but there's a video online of a single decoction helles brewed on the Grainfather. Google "helles decoction grainfather" and you'll find it. Hope that helps. - Shawn
 
Is the STC-1000 rated for ~14 amps (1650 watts/ 120 volts)? Everything I've read about the STC-1000 says it is rated for 10 amps, nothing more.
 
TexasWine,
Good point, the 230 V system draws less than 10 amps so it isn't an issue here. However, you are correct that the installed relays are limited to 10 amps so the heating relay would have to be replaced with a higher capacity one for North American use. There are some guides online on how to replace the mechanical relays with suitable solid state ones. Even 230 V owners do this sometimes because the mechanical relays can fail.
 
Came across a webpage last night for a 5 gallon electric BIAB system with the capacity to recirculate the mash and everything fits nicely on your countertop. The more I look at it, the more I'm starting to think it's exactly what I've been looking for. http://brausupply.com/collections/biab-systems/products/unibrau-120v-5-gallon-brew-boss-automated-brew-system
 
Shawn - Got my stainless steel basket in today and it looks great! Another HBT sponsor made it...reading today I forgot about the UniBrau system, yet another great option that I looked at. It's great because you brew and ferment in the same vessel...and it is a work of art!
Cheers!
 
The "Non-boil" issue on the Zymatic isn't really an issue at all. The Z boils at 207F but agitates the wort the entire time. DMS leaves the wort at 170F and either needs the agitation that the Zymatic has or needs the breaking of surface tension that a slightly higher heat boil would have. There are no DMS issues with the Zymatic. After all, boil-temp in Denver is around 202F and there are some pretty decent beers that come out of that area.
 
I also use the Grainfather personally and sell it in my store. We also use it with all our brewing classes. We have brewed about 10 batches of beer with the Grainfather and it has worked flawlessly. What we have experienced recently are people who are purchasing the Grainbrother and then purchasing parts instead of just buying the grainfather. I have not heard how well this has turned out. Has anyone tried tricking out a Grainbrother?
 
Have youbrewed on a Zymatic? How do you knowyget better control and beer from other systems? I've brewed on a Grainfather and I can tell you that a Zymatic gives you much better control and repeatability.
 
I would like to address the Grainfather clogging issue - the way the Grainfather's chiller works is a bit counterintuitive: while brewing my first batches I ran the chiller and waited till it cools the wort to the right temperature and it clogged! However, after I had resorted to watching the GF instructional videos on this matter, I haven't had any issues ever since: you should turn the pump and cold water inlet on, wait until the wort hose gets cold, stop the pump, direct the wort hose into the fermenting vessel and turn the pump on again. No issues with clogging at all and the chilling and wort transfer is under 10 minutes. I've done about 20 brews on GF since I got one and I highly recommend this unit. It's efficency is about 80% and the end product is incredibly satisfying. Yesterday I brewed a Beer Geek Breakfast clone based on the recipe from the Mikkeller's book and the boil volume was designed to be 25 litres at FG 1.074. I managed to extract 27 litres at the very same FG as stated in the recipe, so it just confirms the mashing efficency.
 
I made my first beer on the stovetop in my kitchen, 5-gal. I had purchased gear that was needed from the brew shop and hardware store. As a first timer , the process was a bit messy and a bit unwieldy in my kitchen area. Weeks later I went to the brew shop to get what I needed for for my second batch and saw the Grainfather sitting there, displayed for sale. I bought it on the spot. Yes, it was pricey. But, I could see that I would eventually have spent that money in dribs and drabs over a period of time as I learned more and improved my gear. I've since made two batches, a pale ale and a citrus IPA with the Grainfather and would never look back! I made the batches in my back yard with plenty of space. Cleanup was a snap. The system worked perfectly with no guessing on temps and volumes. Most notably, the counter-flow cooler was a dream compared to trying to quick-cool my wort in an giant ice bucket. This article is spot-on for both the pros and cons. As for getting to mash and boil temps, it could be quicker (I'm in US). But 15-20-mins isn't too bad. I used the time for cleanup and preparation for next steps, and hardly noticed. Traditionalists may sniff at such a setup -just as skiers used to dismiss snowboarders back in the early '80s. But, for this newb, GF leapfrogged me immediately into shortening the learning curve to making excellent beer. I'm spending less time on trial-and-error experimentation and more time on the recipe, timings, and execution.
 
My pump system clogged with my first attempt with the Grainfather at the most inopportune time - when initializing the counter-flow cooling process. I was able to fix the issue by turning the pump off and disassembling ball valve, near the top of the tube from the pump. Inside the ball valve is a spring where hops had log-jammed and formed a tight plug. I poked the hop plug out of the spring and reassembled the ball valve and was back in business; all in about 3 mins. I've heard that others have just removed the ball valve guts all together as a quick remedy. The clog was a first-timer issue. It's not happened since.
 
Good advice, RealToast. Thanks. I have been using a hop spider with the Grainfather for every batch since the first couple, and it's been working great. But there was one time that I had so much hops in the spider that the bag came loose from the collar and all that hop matter got in the wort anyway ... and it was a lot. I'll check the ball valve if I ever get a clog again. Cheers!
- Shawn
 
Thanks, rbell. Since posting this article, I've been hearing a lot about the systems from Brau Supply, and I'm actually considering one myself for my next major purchase. Cheers! - Shawn
 
DU99 - Thanks for the feedback. The intent of the article was just to highlight some of the general advantages and disadvantages of the concept while referencing those options I've looked into or used, rather than attempting to comprehensively analyze all of the options that are out there. Sorry if that wasn't clear.
But yes, there are a lot of other options out there and Braumeister is one of the most popular. I'll let others weigh in with specific experiences about it. Cheers!
- Shawn
 
I bought one of these a few years ago, and I love it! http://www.highgravitybrew.com/store/pc/BIAB-Electric-Brewing-System-240V-269p3987.htm It's a boil in a bag system, but I actually sparge with it. I use the basket and the bag for the mash, but only a portion of the water like a regular all grain batch. I heat up the sparge water ahead of time and put that in a 5 gallon cooler an set it aside. Once the mash is done, I hook up a hose from my cooler to the lid and let the water flow in as I drain it from the bottom of the pot. The sprinkler head on the lid works great for distributing the sparge water. It easily gets to a boil, but it does run off a 240 outlet. I did install an exhaust in my basement for the moisture during the boil, but it's great to be able to brew indoors in the winter here in WI. I love electric brewing.
 
I have a GF and brew indoors as we have no garage and it rains a lot here in New Zealand. (Yes, I have the 240 V AC version and it boils like mad). I think most people who have experienced clogging on the Grainfather may be forgetting this crucial step: you MUST turn the valve down on the recirculation pipe to reduce flow when using the wort chiller and transferring to your fermentation vessel. This not only allows the wort to cool down to a lower temperature but it really helps in PREVENTING CLOGGING. I have made some really hoppy beers where the bottom of the GF and the pump inlet screen thing is completely invisible due to massive amounts of gloppy trub. No clogging, ever.
I have just bought a hop spider though and am playing around with that just to make cleanup less messy.
I also dissasmble and clean the ball valve on the recirc pipe every time during clean up. There is always some trub or stuff caught in the spring. Takes all of 65 seconds to take apart, rinse and reassemble. This might also help explain why I have had no clogging issue.
On my 18th brew now with the GF and am continually impressed with it. (I don't work for the company even though I live in NZ. I don't even know these guys). Highly recommended!
 
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