Beginner Help Authentic Belgium Sours

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
PET is widely used among brewers (Better Bottle, Big Mouth Bubbler, FerMonster, etc) and widely used for food packaging, including beverages and liquor.

They should last many years, probably at least 15. I don't worry about it since I've never heard of them degrading.
I haven't been brewing that long.

Cheers
Cool, as long as it’s not a few years that they start degrading. I guess the plastic island in the pacific could attest to plastics durability;) How long have you been brewing?
 
About 2 years.
As a pharmacist (PharmD) I have professional background/training in chemistry/biological science and lab work.
Besides loving the beer, I also love the microbiological aspect of wild brewing and fully appreciate all the chemistry involved in brewing. :)
 
Just don't put hot liquids in PET containers. 120-140F maybe the limit perhaps? Better Bottle has guidelines posted on their use.

Don't use a carboy brush inside either, you don't want to scratch it. Just soak, and when needed, swirl a rag inside with some (homemade) PBW to get the needed friction to remove tenaciously clinging crud (e.g., krausen rings).

So if PET is suitable for long term aging, how about that wide plastic lid on the FerMonster? And how's the seal? Aren't those areas of air/oxygen ingress?
 
About 2 years.
As a pharmacist (PharmD) I have professional background/training in chemistry/biological science and lab work.
Besides loving the beer, I also love the microbiological aspect of wild brewing and fully appreciate all the chemistry involved in brewing. :)
That’s awesome, so have you enjoyed any of the sours you’ve made yet?
 
Just don't put hot liquids in PET containers. 120-140F maybe the limit perhaps? Better Bottle has guidelines posted on their use.

Don't use a carboy brush inside either, you don't want to scratch it. Just soak, and when needed, swirl a rag inside with some (homemade) PBW to get the needed friction to remove tenaciously clinging crud (e.g., krausen rings).

So if PET is suitable for long term aging, how about that wide plastic lid on the FerMonster? And how's the seal? Aren't those areas of air/oxygen ingress?
Thanks for the advice. Homemade PBW you say?! And you mentioned some homemade oxyclean? Are there recipes on here or should I just google them?

Yeah I am interested on that part too, you all just scared me on the glass carboys and the price too, that’s why I want to get the fermonsters, and they’re easy to clean.
 
So if PET is suitable for long term aging, how about that wide plastic lid on the FerMonster? And how's the seal? Aren't those areas of air/oxygen ingress?
The lid is threaded and has a gasket, so it's fully air tight when hand tightened. The lid is HDPE.
IMO there are enough examples of people using FerMonsters for sour beer and wine/cider/mead, that it's clearly a good option.
Since Brett is microaerophilic, glass isn't really the best option in my opinion, besides being heavy and dangerous.

Here's an award-winning Lambic style from extract:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/lambic-bos-3rd-bos-and-two-golds.322168/
She had greater success with brews aged in plastic (specifically HDPE for some time).
I would like to propose a theory on why the 2011 is so boring and lifeless. I think it is my 10 gallon plastic fermenter that holds the key - and it is the only variable changed in the three trials. I think a small amount of O2 is important to achieve a wonderful lambic. So from now on, I will only brew these if my 10 gallon plastic fermenter is available.

(BOS = Best Of Show, a coveted award in competitions)

Cheers

..
That’s awesome, so have you enjoyed any of the sours you’ve made yet?
Yeah, all the Lacto sours I've made are very good. My recently bottled wild ale has some THP so it needs more time.
 
The lid is threaded and has a gasket, so it's fully air tight when hand tightened. The lid is HDPE.
IMO there are enough examples of people using FerMonsters for sour beer and wine/cider/mead, that it's clearly a good option.
Since Brett is microaerophilic, glass isn't really the best option in my opinion, besides being heavy and dangerous.

Here's an award-winning Lambic style from extract:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/forum/threads/lambic-bos-3rd-bos-and-two-golds.322168/
She had greater success with brews aged in plastic (specifically HDPE for some time).


(BOS = Best Of Show, a coveted award in competitions)

Cheers

..

Yeah, all the Lacto sours I've made are very good. My recently bottled wild ale has some THP so it needs more time.
Awesome thanks for the PET reference!

Nice, we’re they Just LAB or were there any Brett or the other bacteria in there? What is THP?
 
Sacc and for souring I use a probiotic blend containing a bunch of Lacto species (including L. plantarum) and some Bifidobacteria.
Brett as secondary +/- Pedio requires aging.

http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Tetrahydropyridine
Cracker biscuit flavor
Nice! And see now after a few days of all your all’s help and a Bunch of reading, when you say all those words i actually understand!

Did you buy that blend or make it?
 
In reference to the oxygen “leak” just read this on madfer — “I have not gotten enough sourness by doing a clean fermentation followed by microbes in secondary. This seems to work in barrels where the bugs are receiving some oxygen through the wood, but in a carboy the resulting beer generally lacks the sour assault that I crave.” https://www.themadfermentationist.com/2009/11/brewing-sour-beer-at-home.html?m=1

@IslandLizard @RPh_Guy
His book is a good read, mentioned earlier
American Sour Beer

Edit
Did you buy that blend or make it?
Bought it. Renew Life Ultimate Flora.
 
Last edited:
His book is a good read, mentioned earlier
American Sour Beer

Edit

Bought it. Renew Life Ultimate Flora.
Yeah I’m going to buy that book soon, and thanks for the plug, I’ll have to try that strain sometime.
 
From the same article... “Bucket - I have yet to try aging a sour beer in one, but my friends who have do not seem to be getting objectionably acetic results as some people suggest (due to their high oxygen permeability). It may depend on things like temperature and specific microbe varieties. I also don't like the fact that you have to open them to look at the beer.”

So I’d definitely say the fermonsters are good, especially with the bung.
 
"Yeast cake" is the settled yeast and trub at the bottom of the fermenter.
Gotcha. Is this a problem using the spigot on a fermonster? Does too much sediment come through, or does it get clogged? I do prefer sediment though...
 
Gotcha. Is this a problem using the spigot on a fermonster? Does too much sediment come through, or does it get clogged? I do prefer sediment though...
Nope, the yeast cake compacts over time as the yeast flocculate and settle.

Remove the airlock before draining the fermenter!! Gently tilt it slightly toward the spigot when it gets to the bottom to make sure clear beer is draining through the port. :)
You really don't need any yeast cake when bottling. Sediment will form in the bottles as the yeast grow to consume the priming sugar.
 
Yeah I’m going to buy that book soon.

If you visit the Lambic forum, the author of that book regularly contributes.

Gotcha. Is this a problem using the spigot on a fermonster? Does too much sediment come through, or does it get clogged? I do prefer sediment though...

I wouldn't use a spigotted fermenter for long-term storage.

If you ferment the beer first with a regular yeast strain and then add the souring organisms, It takes longer to get to the final product. If you pitch a vial or smack-pack of combined yeast and souring bugs, it allows the bugs to multiply in an environment before the alcohol is created. Alcohol slows everything up. So they get a head-start if pitched in un-fermented wort. Do not use a starter, or you will have increased the yeast content. If you straight pitch a pack of combined yeast and bugs without a starter, it will take a few days to start. If you make a starter, it will go in 12 hours.

Feel free to add dregs of any sours at anytime. It helps increase the complexity of the finished beer.
 
Thick HPDE is better than glass as it is less permeable.
Glass is not permeable to gas at all.
On the other hand, HDPE is the most oxygen permeable material that brewers commonly use. PP is similar but less common.

If you visit the Lambic forum, the author of that book regularly contributes.
One post in the last 6 months. :(

I wouldn't use a spigotted fermenter for long-term storage.
Why not?
If you ferment the beer first with a regular yeast strain and then add the souring organisms, It takes longer to get to the final product.
Maybe, but that's oversimplifying things.
The character of the beer is different when Brett is pitch up front vs. after primary fermentation.

LAB domination before Sacc fermentation also tends to mute ester formation by the Sacc (I can't find where I first read this, but it's been my experience too). Lower Sacc esters potentially lowers the Brett character.
I believe this is the reason why Belgian brewers use hops to prevent Lacto from souring before Sacc completes fermentation.
To be clear, I'm not saying there's a right or wrong way to pitch, just different results.

In an exbeeriment most tasters preferred the Brett pitched after a clean fermentation:
http://brulosophy.com/2018/05/14/mi...-staggered-microbe-pitch-exbeeriment-results/

Myself and others have had successful souring from pitching bateria after or during yeast fermentation.

Transferring to secondary is not necessary, and leaving on the primary cake may increase Brett expression and souring. Again, either way works, just different.

I agree with not using starters on blends, generally speaking.
Some food for thought. Cheers!
 
If you visit the Lambic forum, the author of that book regularly contributes.



I wouldn't use a spigotted fermenter for long-term storage.

If you ferment the beer first with a regular yeast strain and then add the souring organisms, It takes longer to get to the final product. If you pitch a vial or smack-pack of combined yeast and souring bugs, it allows the bugs to multiply in an environment before the alcohol is created. Alcohol slows everything up. So they get a head-start if pitched in un-fermented wort. Do not use a starter, or you will have increased the yeast content. If you straight pitch a pack of combined yeast and bugs without a starter, it will take a few days to start. If you make a starter, it will go in 12 hours.

Feel free to add dregs of any sours at anytime. It helps increase the complexity of the finished beer.
Thanks! Yeah why not use a spigot on an ager? And so should I use a starter or not? It sounds like you said don’t and do, I could be reading it wrong.
 
Glass is not permeable to gas at all.
On the other hand, HDPE is the most oxygen permeable material that brewers commonly use. PP is similar but less common.


One post in the last 6 months. :(


Why not?

Maybe, but that's oversimplifying things.
The character of the beer is different when Brett is pitch up front vs. after primary fermentation.

LAB domination before Sacc fermentation also tends to mute ester formation by the Sacc (I can't find where I first read this, but it's been my experience too). Lower Sacc esters potentially lowers the Brett character.
I believe this is the reason why Belgian brewers use hops to prevent Lacto from souring before Sacc completes fermentation.
To be clear, I'm not saying there's a right or wrong way to pitch, just different results.

In an exbeeriment most tasters preferred the Brett pitched after a clean fermentation:
http://brulosophy.com/2018/05/14/mi...-staggered-microbe-pitch-exbeeriment-results/

Myself and others have had successful souring from pitching bateria after or during yeast fermentation.

Transferring to secondary is not necessary, and leaving on the primary cake may increase Brett expression and souring. Again, either way works, just different.

I agree with not using starters on blends, generally speaking.
Some food for thought. Cheers!
Do you save your cakes and use them for other beer? What’s the best way to save them, and how much is added to a new batch? Just ordered his book, can’t wait, and then ordering the deluxe kit on Thursday! I’ll be up and running next week, Givin Thanks while I do it!
 
Do you save your cakes and use them for other beer? What’s the best way to save them, and how much is added to a new batch?
Yeah, only Brett cakes though. I pour into ball jars. Easy peasy.

Last section on this page is about reusing cakes:
http://www.milkthefunk.com/wiki/Mixed_Fermentation

MTF is a great reference and the community on their Facebook group is extremely active.

What is Mr. Tonsmeire’s username?
Hint: He's the one with the cover of his book as his avatar ;)
 
LAB domination before Sacc fermentation also tends to mute ester formation by the Sacc (I can't find where I first read this, but it's been my experience too). Lower Sacc esters potentially lowers the Brett character.
Here's a post from the MTF FB group:
"I'm getting about the same perceived sourness level from pre, co, and post souring. I'm leaning more on post souring now, because you get WAY more yeast and brett character. If you want a gose or berliner style that doesn't have much yeast character than pre or co-souring is the way to go."
-Devin Bell (MTF admin and professional sour brewer)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1217518078276404/
 
Here's a post from the MTF FB group:
"I'm getting about the same perceived sourness level from pre, co, and post souring. I'm leaning more on post souring now, because you get WAY more yeast and brett character. If you want a gose or berliner style that doesn't have much yeast character than pre or co-souring is the way to go."
-Devin Bell (MTF admin and professional sour brewer)
https://www.facebook.com/groups/MilkTheFunk/permalink/1217518078276404/
That’s interesting thanks! How long does he let it sit? Post souring as in when he bottles?
 
Pre-sour: souring before pitching yeast.

Co-sour: pitch Lacto and yeast together.

Post-sour: let the yeast finish the majority of fermentation before adding LAB. It'll sour within a few weeks.

I've been researching techniques to hasten the bottling of mixed fermentation sour beers. You could theoretically have a Sacc/Brett/Lacto beer bottled within a day or two after brewing, but it'll still take time for the Brett funk.

Still, I highly recommend brewing the normal way with non-sour beer a couple times before trying something so unusual/advanced.
 
Pre-sour: souring before pitching yeast.

Co-sour: pitch Lacto and yeast together.

Post-sour: let the yeast finish the majority of fermentation before adding LAB. It'll sour within a few weeks.

I've been researching techniques to hasten the bottling of mixed fermentation sour beers. You could theoretically have a Sacc/Brett/Lacto beer bottled within a day or two after brewing, but it'll still take time for the Brett funk.

Still, I highly recommend brewing the normal way with non-sour beer a couple times before trying something so unusual/advanced.
Yeah I definitely am. Going to brew the recipe kit in my deluxe kit when I get it, it’s an American Pale Ale. Then try a lager or two since it’s wonter and my house can maintain the right temps. I was just going to buy a couple more recipe kits and then buy some grain and try some all grain brews, Then start doing some sours.

Can I do my primary ferment And secondary in the same fermonster? I keep reading people siphon to a secondary, but is it really necessary? What’s the main reason why?

Hoping next Friday there will Ben some good deals for some more fermonsters and recipe kits.
 
Pre-sour: souring before pitching yeast.

Co-sour: pitch Lacto and yeast together.

Post-sour: let the yeast finish the majority of fermentation before adding LAB. It'll sour within a few weeks.

I've been researching techniques to hasten the bottling of mixed fermentation sour beers. You could theoretically have a Sacc/Brett/Lacto beer bottled within a day or two after brewing, but it'll still take time for the Brett funk.

Still, I highly recommend brewing the normal way with non-sour beer a couple times before trying something so unusual/advanced.
Also can I do the primary ferment with the bung? I can’t remember if I asked this already, if you answered it already just yell at me and I’ll go back and look later. Or do I need an airlock for the primary ferment? The deluxe kit comes with a fermonster with airlock
 
Can I do my primary ferment And secondary in the same fermonster? I keep reading people siphon to a secondary, but is it really necessary? What’s the main reason why?
Here's the short answer:
There are reasons to use a seconary vessel for certain circumstances.
Unless you have a good reason to transfer, leave it in the primary vessel. Most beers can stay in primary.

Also can I do the primary ferment with the bung? I can’t remember if I asked this already, if you answered it already just yell at me and I’ll go back and look later. Or do I need an airlock for the primary ferment? The deluxe kit comes with a fermonster with airlock
Use a blow-off tube for 3 days and then switch to the breathable airlock.

If/when you're confident that there will not be blow-off, you can start with the breathable airlock instead of the blow-off tube.

Cheers
 
This is an exciting place to start a brewing career, Belgians are way to expensive to buy considering how easy it is to brew a good one yourself.
Yeah exactly that’s why I decided to brew, because once I had a taste of the good life of true Belgians that are real sours, I Had To! Especially when it’s $10-20 minimum for 1 - 1 1/2 beers!
 
Here's the short answer:
There are reasons to use a seconary vessel for certain circumstances.
Unless you have a good reason to transfer, leave it in the primary vessel. Most beers can stay in primary.


Use a blow-off tube for 3 days and then switch to the breathable airlock.

If/when you're confident that there will not be blow-off, you can start with the breathable airlock instead of the blow-off tube.

Cheers
What would be a good reason to transfer? Wait so which one is the blow off? And which is the breathable airlock? Is the blow off the standard airlock and the breathable airlock the silicone bung?
 
Fermenting beer generates foam (called krausen).

If the krausen reaches the top of the fermenter it will either go out through a tube you have in place into a container of sanitizer (called a blow-off tube), or it will go through your airlock. Krausen going through the airlock is worse because it's harder to clean or may clog and cause a foam explosion.

Here's a messy blow off from a 1-gal carboy through a tube.
Standard drilled stopper with 3/8" vinyl tubing into a bottle that started with some sanitizer.
20170227_160628.jpg


The larger head space in a FerMonster more easily contains the krausen, so a blow-off tube may or may not be necessary. If you're not sure, use one.
20180206_161547.jpg


The breathable silicone stopper is what I use for an airlock, as opposed to s-shaped or 3-piece.

What would be a good reason to transfer?
Example: You can primary in one vessel to reduce the amount of trub going into a barrel, the secondary vessel.
 
Fermenting beer generates foam (called krausen).

If the krausen reaches the top of the fermenter it will either go out through a tube you have in place into a container of sanitizer (called a blow-off tube), or it will go through your airlock. Krausen going through the airlock is worse because it's harder to clean or may clog and cause a foam explosion.

Here's a messy blow off from a 1-gal carboy through a tube.
Standard drilled stopper with 3/8" vinyl tubing into a bottle that started with some sanitizer.
View attachment 598156

The larger head space in a FerMonster more easily contains the krausen, so a blow-off tube may or may not be necessary. If you're not sure, use one.
View attachment 598157

The breathable silicone stopper is what I use for an airlock, as opposed to s-shaped or 3-piece.


Example: You can primary in one vessel to reduce the amount of trub going into a barrel, the secondary vessel.
I gotcha, well how will I know if I’m going to have crazy krausen? Are there some beers that have it more? Do most sours do that more than cleans? When is the tune necessary? Because I definitely don’t want to have a huge mess everywhere.
 
I ferment in 7 gallon fermonsters exclusively, and many times brewing belgians I have needed the blowoff tube. Learned the hard way that 2 gallons of headpace is sometimes not enough. I always use a blowoff now unless I'm fermenting below 60f.
 
I ferment in 7 gallon fermonsters exclusively, and many times brewing belgians I have needed the blowoff tube. Learned the hard way that 2 gallons of headpace is sometimes not enough. I always use a blowoff now unless I'm fermenting below 60f.
Ahh I see, thanks for the heads up! And when you say Belgians like Belgian sours or just Clean lagers, helles, etc? I assume this is only during Intial/Active fermentation?
 
Doing my first brew right now! American Pale Ale it included with my home brew kit from more beer. Boiling the hops as we speak. Found some Extract kits I’m going to snag for some more brews, then I think I’m going to take the plunge and go for the authentic sour.

Maybe a lambic? Or should I try a different style?
 
Awesome! I brewed 3 clean beers before I started into sours.
Maybe a lambic? Or should I try a different style?
I would suggest a Berliner Weisse style first (Lacto-soured wheat ale, no Brett).
It's pretty easy and ready in a few weeks, that way you'll have a good sour to drink while you wait months/years for more traditional Brett/Pedio sours to be ready.

You will probably find that you need more fermentation vessels. I keep separate Fermonsters for clean beer, but use the same bottles and bottling equipment.
 
Awesome! I brewed 3 clean beers before I started into sours.

I would suggest a Berliner Weisse style first (Lacto-soured wheat ale, no Brett).
It's pretty easy and ready in a few weeks, that way you'll have a good sour to drink while you wait months/years for more traditional Brett/Pedio sours to be ready.

You will probably find that you need more fermentation vessels. I keep separate Fermonsters for clean beer, but use the same bottles and bottling equipment.
Awesome thanks, that’s what I was thinking, looks like I’ll be doing that. Yeah I’m buying some more this week, I’m hoping to have like 10-15 fermonsters most of them sours and keep like 2-3 for clean beers.
 
Back
Top