My first thought is the carapils vs chill haze. I know you said it doesn't go away, but let it come up to room temp (like 68 or 70) and see if it clears. I have a few recipes that I use carapils in, but I think they use a protein rest so that very much changes things. The 1272 should be fine.
It could be that whatever brand of 2-row you used, has a "wort clarity rating" that is kinda high relative to other brands of 2-row (they do differ). One of the grains may be a brand that is higher protein. The other issue may be water chemistry. Off the top of my head, I think it's low calcium can negatively effect clarity and haze. Maybe one of the water guru's can chime in on that.
You may also be settling still in the keg or have not cleared the bottom. I have an irish red that goes brilliant clear, but it takes about 4 pints pulled before all the gack leaves (I use gelatin on that one).
Your next batch may clear great. Hate to say it but sometimes what is labled on bins, might not be what you want or what you expect it to be. I have one local shop that swears that C120 is identical to Melanoidin and will substitute on a whim. I found this out when a batch went way south on me.
Some of the basics to consider about haze include:
Inefficient boil/chilling (crappy protein binding / coagulation, did you get a good robust hot break? did lots of gloppy looking cold break form? don't do wimpy boils)
Over sparging (tannins, lipids, starches, husk particulates, polyphenols, other caca)
Mash temp control (beta glucans, residual starches, maybe consider trying it with a protein rest - 122F for 15 or 20 minutes)
Protein % and clarity ratings of grains used (sometimes its hard to find out the brand of malts the local shop put into the bins)
Hope something there may help