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At what point do hoppy beers start to have oxidation issues?

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One possible thing you could do to help cut down on oxidation at bottling time is add1 campden tab per gallon a couple days before bottling. The metabisulphite scavenges O2, so at least in theory should help.
I was under the impression that this would stop fermentation and prevent bottle carbonation. I could be wrong.
 
I was under the impression that this would stop fermentation and prevent bottle carbonation. I could be wrong.
Campden won't stop fermentation by itself, but it does scavenge excess O2. But rereading my post above, I've added 1 tab per 5 gallons. At that dose it has not caused any problem with bottle carbonation. Sorry for the doseage mistake.
 
Of course I have no way of knowing for sure, but I'm pretty skeptical when I read stories of people "just following a normal bottling process" on a NEIPA and getting anything but thoroughly disappointing results. It certainly never worked for me, to the point where I, as a rule, eventually implemented a strict moratorium on brewing hoppy beers until I could identify some meaningful process change that might have a hope of producing a hoppy beer that didn't completely suck.

That answer turned out to be closed transfers to kegs. Moratorium lifted.
 
implemented a strict moratorium on brewing hoppy beers

I hear you on bottling NEIPAs, but I do want to stress for the OP that a NEIPA is different from other really hoppy beers. Sensitivity to oxygen is a sliding scale, of course. But in my experience, a west coast IPA is less oxygen sensitive than a NEIPA with the same (or fewer) IBUs. I would expect that most folks on this forum have successfully bottled a hoppy IPA, but the same can't be said for a NEIPA.
 
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