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No, I told him what I intended to do and he said it sounded good...but didn't mention whether or not that is what they do.

I typically do .75 Oz or @ 20-25 IBU @ 60 mins and then everything else is whirlpool / dry hop. I am usually putting a total of 12 Oz. per 5 gallons.

I think I need to lower my late boil additions to hit lower IBUs like you state above, then use additional in whirlpool. I'm also thinking of letting the whirlpool cool like 50 degrees during the hop stand to see if this makes a difference. It would be hard with the immersion chiller to get it right but could try.

What yeast are you using? I've been using Wyeast 1318 and dry-hopping twice with half at day 4. I plan to change that to double my dry-hop and drop that 2 days into fermentation then more in the keg. I've been using around 6 oz for a 2.5 gallon.
 
Pic looks like the first pint from a new keg. I toss that pour.

Some folks may like it, but as someone already said, appearance is a big part of the appeal.
 
Haha you'd have to toss the whole keg! That's the style. I love the juicy, creamy, haziness. On the other hand, I love the crystal clear hop blast like an alpine. All about the other characteristics for me, but that's what's great about beer, to each their own!
 
there's a difference between hazy, which I can handle, and murky, which I can't

I'll drive past Aslin on my way to Lake Anne, or head the other way to Rhino, Ox, Ocelot or Beltway

+1 for Ocelot.
 
I think I need to lower my late boil additions to hit lower IBUs like you state above, then use additional in whirlpool. I'm also thinking of letting the whirlpool cool like 50 degrees during the hop stand to see if this makes a difference. It would be hard with the immersion chiller to get it right but could try.

What yeast are you using? I've been using Wyeast 1318 and dry-hopping twice with half at day 4. I plan to change that to double my dry-hop and drop that 2 days into fermentation then more in the keg. I've been using around 6 oz for a 2.5 gallon.

I usually use 1318 or WLP008, but I have used WLP001.

I usually split my dryhops also...one around 48 hours into fermentation (as it begins to slow) and one 3 days before cold crash.
 
Having had a lot of their beers I really get a feeling that their yeast blend must contain both 1318 and conan — not sure past that.

Really surprised by the hate in this thread. Aslin and Triple Crossing are a better version of Treehouse nowadays in my opinion.
 
For better or worse, there is sometimes a bias against the new. Maybe I'm too quick to embrace change. There isn't a very intuitive way to measure that, however.

I do agree that Aslin may be at the top of the game with IPAs in regards to intense flavor. Treehouse has actually been a bit weak since the move. I get both yeast and hop flavors when drinking their beers. Very vibrant peach was on more than a few.

This leads me to think Conan, but I have never been able to coax that much flavor out of it. If anyone can give me a straightforward method to nail peach from Conan, I will gladly begin tinkering
 
For better or worse, there is sometimes a bias against the new. Maybe I'm too quick to embrace change. There isn't a very intuitive way to measure that, however.

I do agree that Aslin may be at the top of the game with IPAs in regards to intense flavor. Treehouse has actually been a bit weak since the move. I get both yeast and hop flavors when drinking their beers. Very vibrant peach was on more than a few.

This leads me to think Conan, but I have never been able to coax that much flavor out of it. If anyone can give me a straightforward method to nail peach from Conan, I will gladly begin tinkering

1318 is Aslin's house yeast, which means that Mind The Hop, the Johann variants, Master of Karate, and others are brewed with it. I'm not 100% sure what their other yeasts/blends are, but 1318 is certainly a place to start if you're looking to brew something like their beers.
 
Id agree some of their beers I might be able to convince myself a straight 1318 profile. Others though, I can’t.

DDH Dunley Place comes to mind as one that was super peach to me. Pretty much reeked of some conan — and I agree I can’t figure out how the hell to pull peach out of conan consistently.
 
I had some (pretty damn tasty) San Saba. Mouthfeel was damn near diabetic - so i degassed a sample and ran it through a density meter:

FG: 1.055
...so that means OG is something like 1.163 if it truly is 15% abv. Just nuts!
 
I had some (pretty damn tasty) San Saba. Mouthfeel was damn near diabetic - so i degassed a sample and ran it through a density meter:

FG: 1.055
...so that means OG is something like 1.163 if it truly is 15% abv. Just nuts!
I never got to take FG or pH readings of their beer, which is a shame. I'm not sure if San Saba would be a good representative of their IPAs, but it's certainly possible that they are inflating their FG to increase mouthfeel. I've made a few IPAs with green apple puree (trying to see what Tired Hands is up to) and the FG has been consistently ~1.03. Interestingly enough, the first thing people say is "huh... it's more full or thick than normal."
 
So Beer and Brewing has a podcast with them (Episode 52) - not sure if it has been mentioned.

They also just put out a video for subscribers, where Andrew from Aslin describes their processes for fruit forward IPAs and Sours.
Some info from there:

They are big fans of Citra and WP it at 180F. They dry hop for 72 hours after a soft crash at 50F (to harvest yeast). They rouse their DH once a day with CO2 from the bottom/racking arm of the FV for 30-60 seconds.

Their House yeast is a Vermont Ale strain - they apparently take it waaaaaaaay out (100+ generations) - they say after the first 10-20 generations it starts to hit its stride. They stress the yeast by underpitching and fermenting on the cooler side (62-64F) for first 3 days - this is to enhance the peach/stone fruit ester quality of the yeast. After that they let it rise up for diacetyl rest and to fully attenuate.

They add fruit with 20% remaining in fermentation. Also mention they like using salt in all their fruited beers.

They use lacto plantarum for kettle sours.

Water chemistry: Mash pH target 5.25-5.35. Have been known to use CaCl, Gypsum, and KaCl. 45 minutes to Mash in, and will only mash for 15 minutes before lautering.

Hope some of this info helps!
 
So Beer and Brewing has a podcast with them (Episode 52) - not sure if it has been mentioned.

They also just put out a video for subscribers, where Andrew from Aslin describes their processes for fruit forward IPAs and Sours.
Some info from there:

They are big fans of Citra and WP it at 180F. They dry hop for 72 hours after a soft crash at 50F (to harvest yeast). They rouse their DH once a day with CO2 from the bottom/racking arm of the FV for 30-60 seconds.

Their House yeast is a Vermont Ale strain - they apparently take it waaaaaaaay out (100+ generations) - they say after the first 10-20 generations it starts to hit its stride. They stress the yeast by underpitching and fermenting on the cooler side (62-64F) for first 3 days - this is to enhance the peach/stone fruit ester quality of the yeast. After that they let it rise up for diacetyl rest and to fully attenuate.

They add fruit with 20% remaining in fermentation. Also mention they like using salt in all their fruited beers.

They use lacto plantarum for kettle sours.

Water chemistry: Mash pH target 5.25-5.35. Have been known to use CaCl, Gypsum, and KaCl. 45 minutes to Mash in, and will only mash for 15 minutes before lautering.

Hope some of this info helps!
oh, hey! Thanks for the info. I'll have to look into all of it. Interesting to hear about the yeast. I know that they had been pretty tight lipped when they first started.
 
oh, hey! Thanks for the info. I'll have to look into all of it. Interesting to hear about the yeast. I know that they had been pretty tight lipped when they first started.

Yeah I'm honestly not sure how believable it is - going that far out with zero contamination is pretty remarkable for a brewery their size. Also, I think I recall the same yeast handling practices (pitch rate and cooler start) by The Alchemist and their IPAs are barely hazy. I'm not sure I believe some just wheat/oats will give you the amount of haze Aslin has - I've seen some turbid ass beer with just 2-row... Just not sure how all the things add up.
 
I used to be a big fan but had a bunch of their beers this month and they went hugely downhill. Their ipas have extreme hop burn and their big stouts taste like unfermented wort. They were far better before they expanded and tried to keep up with the market demands. They pump out a lot of duds now, unfortunately
 
I had some (pretty damn tasty) San Saba. Mouthfeel was damn near diabetic - so i degassed a sample and ran it through a density meter:

FG: 1.055
...so that means OG is something like 1.163 if it truly is 15% abv. Just nuts!
Don’t forget the lactose. 25 gu points of the fg could easily have come from lactose so it could have been 1.145 - 1.030 And then bumped up with lactose. Being 14.8% and just round up at that point. Which is completely plausible at 78-79% attenuation
 
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I used to be a big fan but had a bunch of their beers this month and they went hugely downhill. Their ipas have extreme hop burn and their big stouts taste like unfermented wort. They were far better before they expanded and tried to keep up with the market demands. They pump out a lot of duds now, unfortunately
That's a bummer. Cortez and His Men from their original location blew my friggin' mind
 
Yeah I'm honestly not sure how believable it is - going that far out with zero contamination is pretty remarkable for a brewery their size. Also, I think I recall the same yeast handling practices (pitch rate and cooler start) by The Alchemist and their IPAs are barely hazy. I'm not sure I believe some just wheat/oats will give you the amount of haze Aslin has - I've seen some turbid ass beer with just 2-row... Just not sure how all the things add up.
Haze is mostly just dry hopping massively at the right time. Of course, some breweries go in weird directions with it, and you get straight murky stew. That's probably a combo of pushing the beer out quickly, high protein grist, and maybe even some finely milled grain going in. Flour in the boil is not unheard of, and even Tired Hands does green apple puree, which can get pretty turbid
 
Haze is mostly just dry hopping massively at the right time. Of course, some breweries go in weird directions with it, and you get straight murky stew. That's probably a combo of pushing the beer out quickly, high protein grist, and maybe even some finely milled grain going in. Flour in the boil is not unheard of, and even Tired Hands does green apple puree, which can get pretty turbid
If breweries are doing either of those things. Do not follow their practices.

This is the thread you want to follow of you’re trying to make New England ipas American IPA - "Northeast" style IPA
 
If breweries are doing either of those things. Do not follow their practices.

This is the thread you want to follow of you’re trying to make New England ipas American IPA - "Northeast" style IPA
I don't understand what you're trying to say. I would have thought that I prefaced the thick haze "methods" with enough negative connotation to indicate that I don't do that. Also, if you're specifically suggesting to not do what Tired Hands does, I kind of don't know what to think of that. They consistently produce fantastic beer.
Haze is just polyphenols binding with proteins to stay in suspension. I think it's kind of silly to try to actually aim for it, but it's also equally silly to fight it. Large amounts of dry hops will give it to you 9/10 times.
 
I don't understand what you're trying to say. I would have thought that I prefaced the thick haze "methods" with enough negative connotation to indicate that I don't do that. Also, if you're specifically suggesting to not do what Tired Hands does, I kind of don't know what to think of that. They consistently produce fantastic beer.
Haze is just polyphenols binding with proteins to stay in suspension. I think it's kind of silly to try to actually aim for it, but it's also equally silly to fight it. Large amounts of dry hops will give it to you 9/10 times.

Yes I was reiterating and absolutely suggesting to not use apple puree or flour in your beer—for you or anyone else who is following or happens to read this thread. It was stated a long long time ago that Tired hands used apple purée in specifically milkshake ipas and if true, I’m sure they have changed this process since.

also tired hands stouts are amazing, their ipas are not on the same level as EQ, OH, TH, HF, HB, Trillium, Monkish, Electric, and many more.You are looking to clone a hazy beer by aslin who make very murky/turbid ipas and I am providing you with the thread on HBT that is by far the most comprehensive resource of scientific and anecdotal best practices that is out right now to produce this style. That’s where I am getting at. There are also many people who follow the thread from that area who may have some insider knowledge of any special processes or ingredients that Aslin uses. I was merely offering support. Not trying to offend you
 
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Not to butt in... but excuse me. Experimental Brewing had a podcast where low temp dry hopping added great flavor and aroma. Carry on.
Cheers
 
Not to butt in... but excuse me. Experimental Brewing had a podcast where low temp dry hopping added great flavor and aroma. Carry on.
Cheers
Yea, I think that Scott Janish's book also covers this. If it doesn't, I guess that I don't recall where I heard it. I tend to dry hop on the colder side (50), but it can be a bit tricky with O2 mitigation if you get really cold. I mean, I'm sure some people have the ability, but I primarily use active yeast to prevent oxidation, and they can get a bit sluggish when too cold. I happen to have two IPAs that I'll be dry hopping around 40, so I'll be interested to see if there's much of a difference
 
I've been dry hopping at 50 for about 6 months now and I don't think I will ever go back. Cool enuf to flocc out the yeast and get a thick slurry, warm enough to extract the oils, and we tend not to see the amount of hop burn or duration in our IPAs.
 
I used to be a big fan but had a bunch of their beers this month and they went hugely downhill. Their ipas have extreme hop burn and their big stouts taste like unfermented wort. They were far better before they expanded and tried to keep up with the market demands. They pump out a lot of duds now, unfortunately

funny you say this as them going downhill. I haven’t lived in DC for 2.5 years. I lived right by Nats stadium when they did the beer garden next door. Their IPAs ALWAYSSSSSSSS had too much hop burn. That was literally the only thing I used to describe their beers. When I drove out to VA I just skipped them and went to Ocelot and Solace. When I moved to Houston and tried Spindletap, I started calling them the Aslin of the South simply because every hazy IPA burned for 6-8 weeks before they were drinkable, yet like Aslin had all the “hype”
 
funny you say this as them going downhill. I haven’t lived in DC for 2.5 years.I loved right by Nats stadium when they did the beer garden next door. Their IPAs ALWAYSSSSSSSS had too much hop burn. That was literally the only thing I used to describe their beers. When I drove out to VA I just skipped them and went to Ocelot and Solace. When I moved to Houston and tried Spindletap, I started calling them the Aslin of the South simply because every hazy IPA burned for 6-8 weeks before they were drinkable, yet like Aslin had all the “hype”
To be honestly, I haven’t had them up until this month(they have been distributed in ny now) since maybe 2017-2018. The beers I did have previously were from trades so they already had age to them so it’s certainly possible I just got lucky early on. But I can’t lie, I had to drain pour two of the ipas I got from them this month because all they had was burn, the others are in the back of the fridge right above the compressor to try to condition them. They definitely dryhop heavy during fermentation or not low enough. No way you can get that much burn any other way, unless you literally transferring trub through the canner
 
I don't understand what you're trying to say. I would have thought that I prefaced the thick haze "methods" with enough negative connotation to indicate that I don't do that. Also, if you're specifically suggesting to not do what Tired Hands does, I kind of don't know what to think of that. They consistently produce fantastic beer.
Haze is just polyphenols binding with proteins to stay in suspension. I think it's kind of silly to try to actually aim for it, but it's also equally silly to fight it. Large amounts of dry hops will give it to you 9/10 times.

let’s dispel some of these bad brewing practices rumors that for some reason years later are sticking around

-don’t use flour. It actually causes haze to drop out because flour particles are too big and heavy.
-no purée. You don’t need it for haze. If you want to make a sour ipa, milkshake, whatever then sure add purée...during fermentation.

haze is a couple things all working together. Yeast choice. It’s not low floccing yeast like the long rumor. London III, conan, s-04, etc are all medium to high floccing yeast. Yeasts that have biotransformative properties. Hop rate. Big hop whirlpools plus high polyphenol hops in dry hopping (especially during fermentation for biotransformation). High protein malt/adjuncts. Oats, wheat, flaked grains, generally around 15-20% of the malt bill. Hop choice. Some hops are known for adding hop haze. Especially Southern Hemisphere hops like galaxy, Vic secret, enigma, etc.

if you use one of those English biotransformative yeast with a high protein grist and add a **** ton of powerful hops like citra/mosaic/galaxy/etc and don’t fine it, you can get the full murk opaque beer. It’s really not rocket science. Most of these breweries are brewing beers that are basically the same beers with minor tweaks for their systems and flavor profile.
 
To be honestly, I haven’t had them up until this month(they have been distributed in ny now) since maybe 2017-2018. The beers I did have previously were from trades so they already had age to them so it’s certainly possible I just got lucky early on. But I can’t lie, I had to drain pour two of the ipas I got from them this month because all they had was burn, the others are in the back of the fridge right above the compressor to try to condition them. They definitely dryhop heavy during fermentation or not low enough. No way you can get that much burn any other way, unless you literally transferring trub through the canner

they churn out a ton of beers. Even before they move facilities, they were releasing 3-4 beers a week. They all have huge hop rates...I’d say minimum 4-5#bbl dry hop and likely upwards of 10# when they get to their triples. The fact they release so many tells me they aren’t taking much time to condition them either. Using the greenness to mean “fresh” when it’s really overhopped and underconditioned. I’ve never gotten the chunky beers from them so I’m sure it’s not trub and yeast. Just young beer
 
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