I'm not sure it would fit the 6.5.
6.5 vs 10.5 = same diameter, just shorter. FYI if you wondered.
I'm not sure it would fit the 6.5.
I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?I have both as well for my Mash & Boil and also agree on the Wilser due to less rigidity. Also, I had it made to fit the outside of the kettle, not the malt pipe. This eliminated the possibility of any grains getting in between the the pipe and the side of the kettle when poring the grain.I requested the Brew Bag be made this way but what they sent me was simply a bit bigger around the top But didn’t fit. I wish they’d simply said they couldn’t do it due to the rigidity. Very disappointed, money down the drain. I liked their bag I used in my 10G cooler for mashing. So I bought the Wilser for my M&B and its great.
I ditched the malt pipe long ago. The benefit of the malt-pipe was indeed the ease of sparging, so if you ditch the malt-pipe you need another plan if you want to sparge. If you pull the bag up slowly using some overhead rig, it won't balloon out much at all and my wilserbag always drains nicely from the bottom. BUT here is how I actually do it now. When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place. It doesn't disturb the grain bed at all which I like. Then I pour in the sparge water, one quart at a time on top as its draining to the other vessel. So I guess you'd call it a manual or "poor-mans" fly sparge lol. Once all sparge water is in the foundry I wait a bit longer until Im pretty close to my pre-boil volume when you consider the volume in the other vessel and under the false bottom (about a gallon under the FB). At this time, I stop the transfer to the second vessel, raise the bag (which is no longer "full") vertically, and pump the wort back to the foundry and remove the FB. Once the wort is at my pre-boil volume in the foundry, I take the bag off the hook overhead. I have this setup so that I rarely need to squeeze the bag and wort is nice and clean. Sounds like a lot, but its pretty easy for me overall. Hope this makes sense.I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?
Also how can you (fly) sparge a gallon or so when using the bag?
I just did my 7th brew in the Anvil Foundry 10.5 and like others I have abandoned the malt pipe. But I did not go to a bag, I simply returned to 3-vessel brewing. I mashed in my 10 gal igloo cooler and used an old brew pot as a hot liquor tank for sparge water. I heated water in the foundry and used the circulating pump and gravity move it as needed. I was by and largely satisfied with the process. I went this way for several reasons. First, I already own all the equipment and did not have to go out and buy anything new. Second, I kind of like 3 vessel brewing. I went to the Foundry to go electric and get off the gas kitchen range. The kitchen is still the best place for me to brew, but I have never really figured out how to manage a large bag for BIAB. Returning to 3 vessel brewing solves my low extraction problem, and maybe oxidation issues from recirculating during the mash? Where did the group consensus land on that one? I saw some discussion, but it got real technical on testing for oxygen.I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?
Also how can you (fly) sparge a gallon or so when using the bag?
Sounds like a top ten list begging to be writtenMust be an aftermarket or second life for all of these abandoned anvil malt pipes!
I hear you on that reason. I'm currently in Seattle with a work transfer after being in Denver (the sunniest major city in the US) and in Austin (where it doesn't rain that much either), so I was losing a lot of outdoors brewing days here.And being able to use it in the garage, my brew day is no longer weather dependent.![]()
Noob said "When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place" - well, that kind of defeats the purpose of an AIO system doesn't it?![]()
Noob said "When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place" - well, that kind of defeats the purpose of an AIO system doesn't it?But it would allow for some fly sparging and a clear wort going into the BK. Sounds like something I will try.
ThisYeah, but the flexibility is awesome. It can be an all-in-one, or it can be a time delayed, temp controlled mash tun if you decide to use propane afterwards. Especially say for an Imperial Stout where you want to do a lot of boiling-off and don't have 240V available.
I use a Mash&Boil with a the basket and a Wilser bag. The unit sits on a printing cart with locking wheels about 15” off the floor in my kitchen, solving the “too high” problem. I’m 6’3”.That basket, w/ 14 pounds of grain, and lots of water, is heavy to lift especially w/ the Anvil on a countertop and you're standing on a 5 gallon bucket.
Looks great man! Gotta admit that you got bigger balls/skills than I since you drilled a hole into the side for monitoring wort levels in a sight glass lol.I'll show my set up, I just recently added a new pump with less power and very much needed, I can recirculate my sparge and just add the water on top as I'm recirculating, that helps with depositing bits of grain back to the top as well as a constant cleaning of the grain
yes, my dc pump I've had for 10 years failed, I was using my riptide, too powerful so this is betterLooks great man! Gotta admit that you got bigger balls/skills than I since you drilled a hole into the side for monitoring wort levels in a sight glass lol.
Is the pump in the picture the "new" pump you were referring to?
I have the same with my chugger. When you restrict the flow below a certain level it cavitates, and won't go slow enough . What is the pump you are using. I was thinking about just getting one from Anvil, but putting a ball valve seems easier than the clamp thing they send with it. Thanksyes, my dc pump I've had for 10 years failed, I was using my riptide, too powerful so this is better
the site glass is a must when recirculating, you can watch the level and make corrections
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2WCW7N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsI was looking and they market this pump under many different names and prices, so far this works fineI have the same with my chugger. When you restrict the flow below a certain level it cavitates, and won't go slow enough . What is the pump you are using. I was thinking about just getting one from Anvil, but putting a ball valve seems easier than the clamp thing they send with it. Thanks![]()
Noob, I see you put the ball valve inline and not directly on the pump, this may work better. Thanks.I bought the anvil pump with Recirculation kit. 55 brews in and it cleans up nicely with zero issues except that 2-3 brews, my free hops have clogged it at settling time after chilling. Other than that it works well with ball valve.
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I believe this is the one @Noob_Brewer posted about in post #1462Can anyone provide a link to a false bottom for the 10.5 foundry? So I can use a grain bag instead of malt pipe.
Thx @bleme thats the one. Interesting sidetone related to this though. Keep in mind, my foundry is first generation...Friend in brew club got a newer foundry with the controller up high. He borrowed my false bottom (35L brewzilla false bottom) and it worked great for him. So he ordered one for himself, not sure if he used more beer or not though. He told me that the FB "barely" fits and it rubs against the sides on the way down the pipe. SO he had to shave the FB down a bit for it to fit easily the way mine does. Not sure if BrewZilla took exception to their products being used in the foundry and widened the diameter a small bit or this one my friend bought was just a one-off. Nevertheless, mine fit perfect. Food for thought I guess...I believe this is the one @Noob_Brewer posted about in post #1462
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...gPqcxfoiMlXb4jH2RmIoy2tx4T__LoshoCfLcQAvD_BwE
Thanks bleme and tracer bullet! Super helpful.I believe this is the one @Noob_Brewer posted about in post #1462
https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...gPqcxfoiMlXb4jH2RmIoy2tx4T__LoshoCfLcQAvD_BwE
Yep, you use a bag above it. Otherwise you have no way of retaining grain after mashing.I'm pretty sure the 35l Brewzilla false bottom is to be used without the malt pipe. I got one and it fits in my recently purchased Anvil 10.5 perfectly.
what bags do you guys use that are reasonably prices, I've had so may rip and I'm not paying $50 just to have it happen againYep, you use a bag above it. Otherwise you have no way of retaining grain after mashing.
If you used the FB with the pipe you'd have all the negatives of the pipe plus additional dead space. Hopefully no one plans to use it that way!
Sorry, my wording was poor when I referred to the FB sliding down the "pipe". I meant the foundry itself. Yep I ditched the malt pipe long ago.I'm pretty sure the 35l Brewzilla false bottom is to be used without the malt pipe. I got one and it fits in my recently purchased Anvil 10.5 perfectly.
I've used my Wilser bag for years, first on the stovetop and now in the Foundry.what bags do you guys use that are reasonably prices, I've had so may rip and I'm not paying $50 just to have it happen again