ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

Williams 728
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Maiden voyage on my 10.5 yesterday. I've been brewing for decades, and used my 6.5 maybe 20+ times. Thought the 10.5 would be identical. I feel some of your pains now.

* That basket, w/ 14 pounds of grain, and lots of water, is heavy to lift especially w/ the Anvil on a countertop and you're standing on a 5 gallon bucket.
* If you do the lift & lower thing, the 10.5 (unlike the 6.5 for some reason) will slosh that water on the sides of the pipe up and out of the Anvil over the sides if you lower too quickly. It'll also push out of your recirculation pipe that you just hung onto the handle.
* Dunk sparging the grains in a separate pot is 50x harder as well.

No question I'll be doing the false bottom & bew bag method from here out. Then I can "just" stir, and not have dead space on the sides.
 
I've had good experiences so far, maybe I'm lucky.

The more open pore bags seem to flow fine, both "brew bag" and Wilser. And the handle thing, I filed them a tiny bit where the bag might scrape on the way out, also they are curved slightly upwards / outwards as well which seems to help.

But, yeah, everyone has their preferences. It is often the "least of the evils".
 
I just picked up an 18 gallon Foundry that came in last week. Now I'm waiting on a bag and the dealer that I bought it from sent a perforated disc from the recirculation kit for a smaller Foundry but the replacement will be here today. Was transferred with work to Seattle and was missing too many brew days due to rain as I had a covered deck in Denver, where it almost never rains anyway.
 
For those of you that have purchased an aftermarket IC to replace/augment the SS chiller coil included with the kit, would you share what *displacement volume* you have seen when dropping the chiller into the kettle?

Was looking at some tri-coil units, but not sure how it would limit my volumes in the Anvil 6.5 unit.
 
renstyle said:
For those of you that have purchased an aftermarket IC to replace/augment the SS chiller coil included with the kit, would you share what *displacement volume* you have seen when dropping the chiller into the kettle?

Was looking at some tri-coil units, but not sure how it would limit my volumes in the Anvil 6.5 unit.
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Sounds like overkill! My ancient, repurposed 25' copper chiller sees Anvil 6.5 duty and that wort, along with some recirculation through a whirlpool arm, is down from boil to room temp in... I dunno maybe 10 minutes if that. And that's while I'm doing other things anyhow. I think a tri-coil would maybe drop that in half but it'd be like a 5 minute savings.

For displacement you should be able to take the OD, length, do the #'s to get its cubic inches, and convert that to gallons.
 
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I figured out the issue with mine in regards to recirculation, I was using the disk and while it does distribute the wort evenly there are not enough holes in it to complete the correct wort in and out velocity, the suction from the pump is greater than the holes in the disk will allow, a very weak pump will probably work but not a riptide, apparently the riptide has a cut off function when the valve is too closed
 
tracer bullet said:
Sounds like overkill! My ancient, repurposed 25' copper chiller sees Anvil 6.5 duty and that wort, along with some recirculation through a whirlpool arm, is down from boil to room temp in... I dunno maybe 10 minutes if that. And that's while I'm doing other things anyhow. I think a tri-coil would maybe drop that in half but it'd be like a 5 minute savings.

For displacement you should be able to take the OD, length, do the #'s to get its cubic inches, and convert that to gallons.
Click to expand...

I too have a bog-standard 25' copper chiller that currently sits in my kettle. Since I have a 5gal cooler for MAIB, I've taken to use the vessel to hold some ice and the original SS coil as a pre-chiller. Using reusable ice packs, so no need to purchase frozen water. It looks Rube Goldberg initially, but it's fairly straightforward.

Even tho I have a 6.5 I push the kettle to ~23L often to get 21L into my fermenter.

So I was gauging the relative level of overkill (but with relative simplicity) vs the current system I utilize, and I appreciate your insight!
 
renstyle said:
For those of you that have purchased an aftermarket IC to replace/augment the SS chiller coil included with the kit, would you share what *displacement volume* you have seen when dropping the chiller into the kettle?

Was looking at some tri-coil units, but not sure how it would limit my volumes in the Anvil 6.5 unit.
Click to expand...
I use the Cuss Brewing TriCoil on my 10.5 without any problems so I never paid any attention to displacement. It is a tight fit on the width though. I'm not sure it would fit the 6.5. It chills insanely fast though - under 100F (I've been using kveik lately) in under 3 minutes.
 
Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
I figured out the issue with mine in regards to recirculation, I was using the disk and while it does distribute the wort evenly there are not enough holes in it to complete the correct wort in and out velocity, the suction from the pump is greater than the holes in the disk will allow, a very weak pump will probably work but not a riptide, apparently the riptide has a cut off function when the valve is too closed
Click to expand...
You need some kind of valve/clamp to restrict flow. Even the pump that comes with the Foundry is way too fast (and that clamp SUCKS but at least it works). It just occurred to me that I have a cheap/light vice lock from Harbor Freight that would likely do the job much better. I'll have to try it out this weekend!
 
Dancy said:
I have both as well for my Mash & Boil and also agree on the Wilser due to less rigidity. Also, I had it made to fit the outside of the kettle, not the malt pipe. This eliminated the possibility of any grains getting in between the the pipe and the side of the kettle when poring the grain.I requested the Brew Bag be made this way but what they sent me was simply a bit bigger around the top But didn’t fit. I wish they’d simply said they couldn’t do it due to the rigidity. Very disappointed, money down the drain. I liked their bag I used in my 10G cooler for mashing. So I bought the Wilser for my M&B and its great.
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I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?

Also how can you (fly) sparge a gallon or so when using the bag?
 
kartracer said:
I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?

Also how can you (fly) sparge a gallon or so when using the bag?
Click to expand...
I ditched the malt pipe long ago. The benefit of the malt-pipe was indeed the ease of sparging, so if you ditch the malt-pipe you need another plan if you want to sparge. If you pull the bag up slowly using some overhead rig, it won't balloon out much at all and my wilserbag always drains nicely from the bottom. BUT here is how I actually do it now. When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place. It doesn't disturb the grain bed at all which I like. Then I pour in the sparge water, one quart at a time on top as its draining to the other vessel. So I guess you'd call it a manual or "poor-mans" fly sparge lol. Once all sparge water is in the foundry I wait a bit longer until Im pretty close to my pre-boil volume when you consider the volume in the other vessel and under the false bottom (about a gallon under the FB). At this time, I stop the transfer to the second vessel, raise the bag (which is no longer "full") vertically, and pump the wort back to the foundry and remove the FB. Once the wort is at my pre-boil volume in the foundry, I take the bag off the hook overhead. I have this setup so that I rarely need to squeeze the bag and wort is nice and clean. Sounds like a lot, but its pretty easy for me overall. Hope this makes sense.
 
kartracer said:
I've brewed once so far on my Anvil 10.5 using the malt pipe. I also bought the Wilser bag and the Brewzilla false bottom and plan on using them without the malt pipe next brew. My question is, when pulling the bag out of the Anvil, will it expand beyond the circumference of the Anvil and spill sticky wort all over the place?

Also how can you (fly) sparge a gallon or so when using the bag?
Click to expand...
I just did my 7th brew in the Anvil Foundry 10.5 and like others I have abandoned the malt pipe. But I did not go to a bag, I simply returned to 3-vessel brewing. I mashed in my 10 gal igloo cooler and used an old brew pot as a hot liquor tank for sparge water. I heated water in the foundry and used the circulating pump and gravity move it as needed. I was by and largely satisfied with the process. I went this way for several reasons. First, I already own all the equipment and did not have to go out and buy anything new. Second, I kind of like 3 vessel brewing. I went to the Foundry to go electric and get off the gas kitchen range. The kitchen is still the best place for me to brew, but I have never really figured out how to manage a large bag for BIAB. Returning to 3 vessel brewing solves my low extraction problem, and maybe oxidation issues from recirculating during the mash? Where did the group consensus land on that one? I saw some discussion, but it got real technical on testing for oxygen.
 
I've found that the pipe / bag / etc. depends on my gravity target and if I plan to sparge or boil off any extra. 5.5% ABV or so - the pipe works well, is convenient, and with a few lift / lowers and stirring does quite well. The extra steps make up for the dead space. Higher (7 - 8% and above ABV) - definitely skip the pipe and use the bag. It's not a big deal but I find it to be a little more messy and less convenient. But only a little. Not enough to hate it at all, but enough that I actually slightly prefer the pipe.

It's definitely cool all the things that the Anvil can be used for even if it's outside the original intent. I have run my brew day from beginning to end, I have also used it as just a temperature controlled mash tun and then transferred into a boil kettle over a flame.
 
I usually use my Wilser bag inside the malt pipe. It doesn't make any sense but the first 2 times I brewed without the bag, I had to fight stuck recirculation. Maybe I got better at controlling the flow, or maybe the bag actually helps, but it works now so I'm not going to change it.
 
Thanks for all the tips. I bought the Anvil as sort of a pilot sized system vs. dragging my stand and 20g 3 vessel gas/electric hybrid setup out of my shed into the driveway. And being able to use it in the garage, my brew day is no longer weather dependent. :rock:

Noob said "When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place" - well, that kind of defeats the purpose of an AIO system doesn't it? :p But it would allow for some fly sparging and a clear wort going into the BK. Sounds like something I will try.

Mekchu said "But I did not go to a bag, I simply returned to 3-vessel brewing" - I will continue to use my 3V system for making 12g batches of known good recipes. (I started home brewing in the mid-90's.) My homebrew club meets monthly with an informal competition each meeting. I rarely have something on tap that meets the style of the month. With the Anvil, the hope is to brew at least once a month on it to have something to bring to the meetings/comps.

Bleme said "I usually use my Wilser bag inside the malt pipe. It doesn't make any sense..." - It makes sense to me for the very reason you stated; fighting stuck recirculation which I had to do on my initial Anvil brew. If it works, go for it. :thumbsup:
 
kartracer said:
And being able to use it in the garage, my brew day is no longer weather dependent. :rock:
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I hear you on that reason. I'm currently in Seattle with a work transfer after being in Denver (the sunniest major city in the US) and in Austin (where it doesn't rain that much either), so I was losing a lot of outdoors brewing days here.
 
kartracer said:
Noob said "When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place" - well, that kind of defeats the purpose of an AIO system doesn't it? :p
Click to expand...

Yeah, but the flexibility is awesome. It can be an all-in-one, or it can be a time delayed, temp controlled mash tun if you decide to use propane afterwards. Especially say for an Imperial Stout where you want to do a lot of boiling-off and don't have 240V available.
 
kartracer said:
Noob said "When mashing is over, I simply slowly drain it over to another vessel with the bag in place" - well, that kind of defeats the purpose of an AIO system doesn't it? :p But it would allow for some fly sparging and a clear wort going into the BK. Sounds like something I will try.
Click to expand...

tracer bullet said:
Yeah, but the flexibility is awesome. It can be an all-in-one, or it can be a time delayed, temp controlled mash tun if you decide to use propane afterwards. Especially say for an Imperial Stout where you want to do a lot of boiling-off and don't have 240V available.
Click to expand...
This 👆is the biggest reason IMHO which makes the foundry a solid system IMO. Flexibility. @kartracer While I agree that it does defeat the purpose of an AIO in general, lets remember that this system has appeal to several different audiences who have turned to it for various reasons. I found my old post about this idea and also included the mods that I have done over the 50+ brews over 2yrs. FYI, I started Homebrewing with this system.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/threads/anvil-foundry-all-grain-brewing-system.666090/post-9052592
post #1462 if link doesn't work.
 
tracer bullet said:
tracer bullet said:
That basket, w/ 14 pounds of grain, and lots of water, is heavy to lift especially w/ the Anvil on a countertop and you're standing on a 5 gallon bucket.
Click to expand...
Click to expand...
I use a Mash&Boil with a the basket and a Wilser bag. The unit sits on a printing cart with locking wheels about 15” off the floor in my kitchen, solving the “too high” problem. I’m 6’3”.
 
I'll show my set up, I just recently added a new pump with less power and very much needed, I can recirculate my sparge and just add the water on top as I'm recirculating, that helps with depositing bits of grain back to the top as well as a constant cleaning of the grain
 

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Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
I'll show my set up, I just recently added a new pump with less power and very much needed, I can recirculate my sparge and just add the water on top as I'm recirculating, that helps with depositing bits of grain back to the top as well as a constant cleaning of the grain
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Looks great man! Gotta admit that you got bigger balls/skills than I since you drilled a hole into the side for monitoring wort levels in a sight glass lol.

Is the pump in the picture the "new" pump you were referring to?
 
Noob_Brewer said:
Looks great man! Gotta admit that you got bigger balls/skills than I since you drilled a hole into the side for monitoring wort levels in a sight glass lol.

Is the pump in the picture the "new" pump you were referring to?
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yes, my dc pump I've had for 10 years failed, I was using my riptide, too powerful so this is better

the site glass is a must when recirculating, you can watch the level and make corrections
 

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Ozarks_Mountain_Brew said:
yes, my dc pump I've had for 10 years failed, I was using my riptide, too powerful so this is better

the site glass is a must when recirculating, you can watch the level and make corrections
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I have the same with my chugger. When you restrict the flow below a certain level it cavitates, and won't go slow enough . What is the pump you are using. I was thinking about just getting one from Anvil, but putting a ball valve seems easier than the clamp thing they send with it. Thanks :mug:
 
cmac62 said:
I have the same with my chugger. When you restrict the flow below a certain level it cavitates, and won't go slow enough . What is the pump you are using. I was thinking about just getting one from Anvil, but putting a ball valve seems easier than the clamp thing they send with it. Thanks :mug:
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2WCW7N?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_detailsI was looking and they market this pump under many different names and prices, so far this works fine
 
I bought the anvil pump with Recirculation kit. 55 brews in and it cleans up nicely with zero issues except that 2-3 brews, my free hops have clogged it at settling time after chilling. Other than that it works well with ball valve.

IMG_2982.jpg
 
Noob_Brewer said:
I bought the anvil pump with Recirculation kit. 55 brews in and it cleans up nicely with zero issues except that 2-3 brews, my free hops have clogged it at settling time after chilling. Other than that it works well with ball valve.

View attachment 772672
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Noob, I see you put the ball valve inline and not directly on the pump, this may work better. Thanks. :mug:
 
Hope this wasn’t covered already in this thread, but at 2k posts….I haven’t read through all of them.

Can anyone provide a link to a false bottom for the 10.5 foundry? So I can use a grain bag instead of malt pipe.

Thanks
 
bleme said:
I believe this is the one @Noob_Brewer posted about in post #1462

https://www.morebeer.com/products/r...gPqcxfoiMlXb4jH2RmIoy2tx4T__LoshoCfLcQAvD_BwE
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Thx @bleme thats the one. Interesting sidetone related to this though. Keep in mind, my foundry is first generation...Friend in brew club got a newer foundry with the controller up high. He borrowed my false bottom (35L brewzilla false bottom) and it worked great for him. So he ordered one for himself, not sure if he used more beer or not though. He told me that the FB "barely" fits and it rubs against the sides on the way down the pipe. SO he had to shave the FB down a bit for it to fit easily the way mine does. Not sure if BrewZilla took exception to their products being used in the foundry and widened the diameter a small bit or this one my friend bought was just a one-off. Nevertheless, mine fit perfect. Food for thought I guess...
 
kartracer said:
I'm pretty sure the 35l Brewzilla false bottom is to be used without the malt pipe. I got one and it fits in my recently purchased Anvil 10.5 perfectly.
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Yep, you use a bag above it. Otherwise you have no way of retaining grain after mashing.

If you used the FB with the pipe you'd have all the negatives of the pipe plus additional dead space. Hopefully no one plans to use it that way!
 
tracer bullet said:
Yep, you use a bag above it. Otherwise you have no way of retaining grain after mashing.

If you used the FB with the pipe you'd have all the negatives of the pipe plus additional dead space. Hopefully no one plans to use it that way!
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what bags do you guys use that are reasonably prices, I've had so may rip and I'm not paying $50 just to have it happen again
 
kartracer said:
I'm pretty sure the 35l Brewzilla false bottom is to be used without the malt pipe. I got one and it fits in my recently purchased Anvil 10.5 perfectly.
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Sorry, my wording was poor when I referred to the FB sliding down the "pipe". I meant the foundry itself. Yep I ditched the malt pipe long ago.
 

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