Another TSS2 controller box build

[ClaudiusB]

Great write up. Does it matter which color goes in the 1 position and which one goes in the 3 position?

Thanks

No

 

[jtrux]

Thanks for the reply

 

[jtrux]

OK got side tracked. Anyway, here is how I program mine...

SP1 67 (varies, see below)
SP2 0
r0 dep
r1 2
r2 2
c0 10
c1 dir (default)
c2 inv
P0 F (documents say C is default but I never remember changing mine)
P4 sd1 (default)
P5 1

OK so these settings result in the following...

[*]Range is 65 - 69 F
[*]Heat comes on at 65 (SP1+SP2-r2) and kicks off at 67 (SP1+SP2)
[*]Cooling comes on at 69 (SP1+r1) and kicks off at 67 (SP1)
[*]10 minute cool-down (c0) to extend life of the freezer


Just set my love unit up. When programming it it also has R1-8, A0-7, C0-4, P0-5, H0-5. Do I just skip (leave default) the parameters that were not included above?

Thanks

 

[jtrux]

Sorry, some how my question got included in the OP (was trying to quote). Anyway do I leave the parameters default that were not listed above. The unit has parameters for R1-8, A0-7, C0-4, P0-5, and H0-5

Thanks again

 

[TomSD]

Yes, skip anything besides those listed. Assuming your unit is at defaults there is no need to touch them.

 

[jtrux]

Thanks for the reply. One last question. If I leave all parameters the same, can I set sp1 to any value and controller will control +/- 2 F. So if sp1 would be set to 64 would heat come on at 62 & off at 64 and cool on at 66 and off and off at 64?

Thanks

 

[TomSD]

That is correct.

 

[jtrux]

Thanks again, this has been a very informative thread.

Jeremy

 

[raindogxx]

I followed the designs provided by TomSD and Revvy. I recently relocated to Ireland and easily 90% of the time went to sourcing parts. It's a little ugly and the next one I make will be cleaner but the controller seems to be working well. I'm using a ceramic bulb for heat and I have a PC fan in a small enclosure to try to prevent stratification. With a little luck I'll be back brewing next week.

Cheers to everyone who contributed to the thread.

Jon

 

[Spinrathen]

Subbed.

 

[bzwyatt]

Do you just run the sensor wire into the fridge through the door? Does it affect the seal at all?

 

[TomSD]

Yeah I just close the lid on it. It is small enough it doesn't hurt anything and though I am sure it isn't as good as a full seal it works fine.

 

[bzwyatt]

Made my controller today. I bought the STC a couple weeks back, found a fridge on craiglist and picked it up last night. Today I got the parts at Home Depot, and the box in the pic at Target. I like the toolbox idea, though I didn't like this one at first because it has the compartments on top. This was the best I found, so I took it. I ended up installing the controller in the compartment, so now I'm happy they're there! My wife likes tools and building stuff, though she hasn't don't anything with electrical, so she wanted to help. We got it done pretty smooth.

Wiring diagram was perfect, thanks for the info, I really appreciate it, got this done in a couple hours and now my carboy is in the fridge at a perfect 68.

I wonder if the freezer (above the fridge) will be good temp to lager in... ?

 

[bzwyatt]

And here is the back of the box. Fridge is plugged into the nearest outlet, heater in the middle, power outlet furthest from camera. I'm lovin' this thing! Was fun to build and I'm not stressing about my beer overheating anymore. I'm already becoming obsessed with brewing, but now it is even more fun since a big struggle is alleviated, and just in time for hot weather here in SoCal.

Thanks again!

 

[TomSD]

I like it! Did you take up all the space inside or leave room for tossing in your sensor and cords when not in use?

 

[bzwyatt]

There probably is enough room and I kinda hoped it might be useful that way, but the wiring under/behind the STC-1000 makes it a squeeze to shut the box. I don't want to open and close it a lot, I figure enough times and I might break one of the connections or wear out the wires. So I just leave it like that.

Again, thanks for your diagram, very helpful.

 

[TomSD]

Attach a couple velcro straps or a small hip-purse type bag to it then for the cords.

 

[Hang Glider]

TSS-2 from Dwyer Instruments:

a little circuit board work, including
1) master switch
2) circulation switch - On/Off/Auto (circulates when heat or cool comes on)
3) heat (by way of aquarium heater)
4) cool (by way of turning on pump in Glycol tank in Keezer)

Relays required for circulation switch to be isolated.

A little woodworking to house device, and a bit of silkscreening for the faceplate.

 

[Hang Glider]

Finished box.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

Either one will work ( TSS2 Love, Or STC 1000) just make sure you are ordering a 120 volt in the USA so you don't end up buying a control transformer for the unit.

He's just showing you an extra outlet that was added that's always on (live) in case you need lights to get your brew. LOL!

Is this what we should be ordering?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Also, could a computer power cable (like this) be substituted?

 

[DSmith]

Is this what we should be ordering?

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008KVCPH2/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20


Also, could a computer power cable (like this) be substituted?

The amazon link is for the 110V version. That's an incredible price for a controller if you don't mind the 1C setting increments. I'd use solid wiring to the terminals, 14 gauge minimum (15 Amp) and install an outlet that is not switched (in addition to your switched outlet) in your box to transition to stranded wire with forks crimped and soldered to the stranded wire.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

The amazon link is for the 110V version. That's an incredible price for a controller if you don't mind the 1C setting increments. I'd use solid wiring to the terminals, 14 gauge minimum (15 Amp) and install an outlet that is not switched (in addition to your switched outlet) in your box to transition to stranded wire with forks crimped and soldered to the stranded wire.

I found some 12/2. Will that work? Seems awful stiff like it will be tough to work with? Seems like it will be tough to turn with the wire nuts?

 

[DSmith]

I found some 12/2. Will that work? Seems awful stiff like it will be tough to work with? Seems like it will be tough to turn with the wire nuts?

I'd use 12g THHN wire, sold at Home Depot/ect...by the foot in black/white/green. Stranded wire with forks crimped and soldered to the ends works great for flexible jumpers. Solid is similar to romex with wire nuts.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

I'd use 12g THHN wire, sold at Home Depot/ect...by the foot in black/white/green. Stranded wire with forks crimped and soldered to the ends works great for flexible jumpers. Solid is similar to romex with wire nuts.

I'm just trying to be resourceful. I have a very heavy duty power cable from a server that has these wires in it. Is there any way to tell what gauge it is? It doesn't seem to say anywhere. I wonder if I could strip these cables and use them.

Also, why couldn't I just use wire nuts with stranded cable like this? It would be a lot easier as I have never soldered before.

I feel very confident in my ability to wire the unit up as the diagram specifies however I am not familiar with electrical wiring and want to be sure I get the correct materials so as not to create a fire or shock hazard.

Thanks for all you help!

 

[mcangeli]

Yes and yes. Thats identical to the cord I used.

 

[JUST_BREW_IT]

I'd use 12g THHN wire, sold at Home Depot/ect...by the foot in black/white/green. Stranded wire with forks crimped and soldered to the ends works great for flexible jumpers. Solid is similar to romex with wire nuts.

Ok, the fork crimps make sense to me now and look easy enough. How important is it to solder the ends to the fork crimp? Again, I've never soldered but perhaps it is time to give it a go

 

[Hang Glider]

look at post 99
sure he's in Ireland and the outlets look funny...but that is stranded wire, not solid and looks like about 14g - you should be fine. Just don't try to run two refrigerators or heaters at the same time.

link to wire/load chart

 

[bzwyatt]

I gotta mod my fridge.

I accidentally left my heat lamp on inside it overnight. It is melted some, around the door where the lamp was and on the ceiling around the light switch where I'm guessing some control/wiring is at, cause it won't turn on now. So I gotta hook up my temp controller directly to the compressor I guess. Right now the fridge is not modded, just plugs into the controller. Luckily I just had a two LBKs in there mostly done, so I didn't lose a big batch and maybe the LBKs will be ok. One is melted though, I'll post a pic maybe...

Is there a link around somewhere for going straight from controller to fridge thermostat or compressor?