Amerikanisch Pale Ale - Tips and Advice

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

TasunkaWitko

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2014
Messages
2,824
Reaction score
984
Location
Chinook
Note - recipe in opening post has gone through a bit of evolution - read and scroll down to see how it ends up.

Amerikanisch Pale Ale - Tips and Advice


My next two brews will include a straight-up American Pale Ale and a straight-up English Pale Ale; this thread is for the American Pale Ale.

This project is inspired by my reading of the book, Beer Craft: A Simple Guide to Making Great Beer , which is written specifically for small-batch brewing:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/1605291331/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

What I really like about this easy-to-read book is how it introduces you to a versatile spectrum of 10 beer styles (pale ale, brown ale, porter, stout, saison, wheat, pilsner, Scottish ale, abbey ale and barleywine), with good descriptions and back-stories to each style. The book also includes basic, no-frills recipes for perfecting the fundamentals of each style (with some suggestions for possible variations) as you progressively learn to become a well-rounded brewer. This, to me, is a stroke of genius, and this brew represents the beginning of my quest to brew my way through those 10 styles, along with a possible variation or two along the way, such as in the case of the Pale Ale (American and English).

My goal for this brew is for a stripped-down, non-complicated American Pale Ale that reflects a few things about me. I am not consciously attempting to duplicate or emulate any commercial beer, but I do want it to conform to the style in general. I want this ale to be a malt-forward beer with good hop flavor and aroma, and a bitterness that is at the low end of the pale ale scale (see what I did there?). My name for the beer (Amerikanisch) is a nod to my German roots, and the pale ale malt that I will be brewing with comes from Montana. My chosen hops (Chinook) pay homage to my hometown.

Here is the recipe that I have come up with, following the guidelines in the book for a basic Pale Ale:

Amerikanisch
Pale Ale

By TasunkaWitko

1 gallon

OG - 1.052
FG - 1.009
ABV - 5.56%
IBUs - 30.94
SRM - 11.43


Fermentables

1.8 lb American Pale 2-Row Malt (MaltEurope)
0.2 lb American Caramel/Crystal 20L


60-Minute Mash @ 152 degrees

60-Minute Boil


Hops

0.06 oz Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 60 minutes
0.07 oz Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 30 minutes
0.10 oz Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 1 minute


Yeast

Safale S-05 - 1/2 package

I consider this recipe to be “in development,” and welcome input that will steer me toward a good English Pale Ale that is within my goals stated above.

I’ll be ordering the ingredients soon, and hope to brew this beer next week or the week after.

I have very little experience with American Pale Ales, so I am looking forward to learning about them. As always, I welcome feedback and suggestions with this - I consider myself to be very much a beginning brewer, and batting ideas around is always good for learning new things. Please feel free to chime in, follow along or otherwise participate in the discussion.

More as it happens, etc. &c....

Ron
 
Last edited by a moderator:
You really should move to grams for hop additions. Buy yourself a scale that does pounds and grams. You're wasting a lot of yeast there; pitch 2 grams (hence the scale recommendation)

I'd suggest throwing in all of the leftover of the ounce of hops your buying at flameout instead of the 1 minute addition.
 
Hi, Weezy, and thanks for the input.

My scale can indeed do grams, so I will convert those and see what I get.

As for the yeast, I am simply accustomed to using half a packet for a gallon, but considering that 1 packet will do 5 gallons, It probably would make sense to cut that amount down a bit.

As for the hops, I'll play around with it a bit. They are my son's hops that he uses for his IPAs, so I am not sure how much is left. There is most likely plenty of room for experimentation, there. My main goal is to avoid that super-bitter, resiny taste that comes from these heavily hopped beers, but I also want plenty of the flavor and aroma that is good! :mug:

Thanks again!

Ron
 
Go with 1/2 ounce at flameout. It'll be good!

You really should consider moving up to 2-3 gallons at some point. You can do those just fine on the stove top and it's easier to make better beer at bigger volumes.
 
I wish everything would go metric to be honest. Grams for ounces, liters for gallons, Celsius for Foreignsh!te. :D

Joking aside... OP, looks like you have 10% crystal in that pale ale. It's fine that way, but edging toward an amber as long as you're good with that. I might drop the crystal down to about 5-7% though for a cleaner malt profile that will let the hops shine.
 
Hi, guys -

I do want a malt-forward beer, but if 10% would be considered too much, I could back it off a bit, as long as the flavor would still come through.

Or would it possibly be better to go with 10% of a 10L crystal malt?
 
If you are looking for a malt forward beer, you might want to consider using Maris Otter or Ale malt instead of US 2-row.

All are fine, I prefer the more flavourful English base malts, especially if you aren't hopping it like crazy.
 
Hi, Sadu -

I'll be using Maris Otter for the English Pale Ale that I am making at the same time as this one. I thought it would be good to make one of each.
 
You really should consider moving up to 2-3 gallons at some point. You can do those just fine on the stove top and it's easier to make better beer at bigger volumes.

Gotta disagree right here. By the time I have brewed my 1 gallon recipe 2-3 times and dialed everything in I guarantee mine is better than the guy who makes a single 2-3 gallon batch. This is especially true for APAs where hop monsters can be expensive and you want to know they are good before spending up large on a big batch.

There is nothing about 1 gallon brewing that is inferior to bigger batches, taste-wise anyway. There is of course the obvious small yield for the amount of work, which is why you would want to go bigger once the recipe is dialed in.
 
Hi, guys -

I do want a malt-forward beer, but if 10% would be considered too much, I could back it off a bit, as long as the flavor would still come through.

Or would it possibly be better to go with 10% of a 10L crystal malt?

10% isn't too much, and as long as you balance it with appropriate hopping it can still sneak through as an APA... kinda. If you're wanting malty though, 7-10% Munich wouldn't go a miss. Vienna gives nice colour and graininess too. I made an APA last wednesday with just base malt, 10% Vienna and 4% C40.
 
I'd disagree on yeast critique. Yeah, one pack is normally 5 gal, but a 1 gal batch with half a pack is much easier to eyeball thank trying to figure out 20% of a pack
 
I really like that book. I've brewed a couple of things out of it and most were pretty good. I tried the chocolate stout and fermentation never took off. Never did figure out what I did wrong with that one. But back to the topic, their pale ale is pretty good. I don't have the book here at work with me, but you might want to double check your grains. I've got my beer log with me and my notes show me using 2lbs 4 oz of American 2-row and 4 oz of Crystal 20. Maybe I wrote it down wrong, or maybe you typed it in wrong. I don't know, but make sure you got it right.

Whatever I did, mine came out pretty good. I used Citra hops only for mine.
20g at boil
10g at 20 minutes
10 g at flameout

and I used 3tsp of US-05 and 22g of priming sugar if any of that helps. Good luck with it and if you have any questions, let me know.
 
I appreciate all of the info, everyone - thank you.

I was able to try an American Pale Ale last night - Prickly Pear Pale Ale, from Lewis and Clark Brewing in Helena, Montana:

http://lewisandclarkbrewing.com/beer/prickly-pear-pale-ale/

ALL-Cans-Mockup2_500x350_acf_cropped.png


It was good, and I liked it for the most part. That malts were really nice, and the head and head retention were incredible. The colour seemed to be right about where I intend mine to be. Fresh tasting and clean, this ale is actually brewed with prickly pear cactus added, and it is, over-all, a good beer.

Except for one thing.

At the finish, just when you think the beer is gone, there is one heck of a bitter, harsh thing going on, like getting a mouthful of turpentine mixed with soap, maybe. I guess it is not exactly bitter, per se, because the IBUs are only 23 - but my understanding of the nuances could be a little off.

My dad, who tried one with me, had the same impression: it's a really good beer, right up until that point.

I am not so great at describing flavours, but while I enjoyed the hop flavour itself at the beginning of each drink, I'd like to avoid that finish. Is it from dry-hopping? Is it simply the type of hop that they used?

I don't know. Any help with that goal would be appreciated.
 
Going through the replies, following up on a few points:

You really should consider moving up to 2-3 gallons at some point.

I agree, when it comes to the beers that I have gotten good at and enjoy. Normally, a gallon produces enough to keep a good pipeline, considering my "consumption rate," but there are some that I just want more of - and to share. I brewed a type of hefeweizen last year called Edelweiß, and it was like drinking some sort of nectar from the gods. Another one - a clone of the original Blue Moon - came out so well that my dad, a committed Bud Lite disciple, said he wanted to try brewing it. I have equipment that should be able to easily do 2 or even 3 gallons, and I can split the batch across two or three 1-gallon fermenters until I get one that would hold that much.

If you're wanting malty though, 7-10% Munich wouldn't go a miss. Vienna gives nice colour and graininess too.

At the risk of sounding like a moron, would either of these detract from the "American-ness" of the beer? Within my goals, I'd like to keep the character as American as possible.

I've got my beer log with me and my notes show me using 2lbs 4 oz of American 2-row and 4 oz of Crystal 20.

Your numbers are right, Griffin - mine were based on the recommended ratio that I remember reading in the book (90% base malt, 10% of a light crystal-type malt). The brewing method I use is a little different than the one in the book, and all of the batches that I brew with that method seem to average at 2 pounds, so that is usually my "default" when trying to create a recipe, adjusting as necessary for bigger or lighter beers, as the case may be. In this case, I started with 2 pounds total, and according to Brewer's Friend, it "fit" within the style, so I didn't think too much beyond that. I'll double-check my numbers and see if adding more base malt will work, using my method; incidentally, here is a video that demonstrates it, for comparison to the one in the book:

[ame]https://vimeo.com/11354805[/ame]

I think that covers my questions, guys - thanks to all for the continued advice and support.

Ron
 
It sounds like you are conducting what are called SMASH experiments (single malt, single hop). That is good for helping you define the character of relatively unique elements of your beers on a one by one basis. Be careful with your hopping since you are using a relatively high alpha hop and minor variation in alpha or quantity could have a substantial effect on bittering. The good thing is that you are targeting a fairly modest bittering level that is lower than typical in APA. I do like Chinook, but it is very piney. I feel that there should be at least a touch of piney in any good APA or AIPA, but do recognize that it could get out of hand in this recipe...but that is apparently the purpose of your experiments! You could spend dozens of batches just exploring hops with that recipe and approach. Learn what you like and dislike.

Enjoy!
 
Hi, Martin, and thanks for jumping in on this ~ :mug:

My son brewed a beer with a nice piney-ness in it - it might even have been these same Chinook hops, I am not sure - my impression at the time was that it was in the flavour and worked pretty well.

Like you said, this is about experimentation. Any recipe I try to build from the ground-up assumes that there will be some future tweaking involved. I might just go with things as they are - with a possible adjustment or change to the crystal/caramel malt - and see where it ends up.
 
would either of these detract from the "American-ness" of the beer? Within my goals, I'd like to keep the character as American as possible.

Not at all. Munich and Vienna, as well as many other malts from around the globe, make their way into many American style beers. The BJCP descriptions offer a decent starting point, but even then I think it's okay to colour outside the lines a little. The key for me is that a beer tastes somewhat as I would expect it to for a given style. I'd expect an APA to focus on American ingredients, like domestic 2-Row base, US hops and neutral yeast. Switch out for Maris Otter, UK hops and estery yeast and then it might be an English pale ale or bitter. Totally subjective of course! The underlying flavors that make any beer unique can include almost anything though. Vienna, Pils, aromatic, biscuit, sugars, etc. All good as long as they don't outshine the key characteristics.

:mug:
 
10% isn't too much, and as long as you balance it with appropriate hopping it can still sneak through as an APA... kinda. If you're wanting malty though, 7-10% Munich wouldn't go a miss. Vienna gives nice colour and graininess too. I made an APA last wednesday with just base malt, 10% Vienna and 4% C40.

If you want a good bit of malt you are probably going to be pushing the amber ale side rather than middle of style APA. My winter house pale ale is should probably be called House amber instead but sounds like what you are targeting as far as taste.

It is 9% crystal, 20% Munich, 25% Vienna, and the rest Marris Otter. Hopped with Chinook and a bit of Centennial keeping the IBU at 37.

But if you are happy with a bit less malt but truer to the APA style, your recipe looks good. I love chinook as well but find a small bit of centennial or citra helps to brighten it up a bit.

I would second what someone else said about going bigger than one gallon. I just found the losses added up to where for experiments I now shoot for about 2.2 gal in a 3 gallon carboy. It really doesn't take much more grain or hops and the loss for 1 gallon or 2 gallon are almost identical on a real, not percentage basis.
 
I wasn't able to order the stuff for this over the weekend as I intended, but will probably do so this coming weekend. No worries; it will give me time to read up a bit.

Thanks much for the replies so far, and please keep them coming. I had a busy weekend, but I will read and respond as I can. I appreciate all the input, and look forward to brewing this ~

Ron
 
I was able to read the comments a bit, and based on those as well as my goals, I brought the base malt up to 93%.

As for the rest (7%), I'd like to find one malt that would be common in an American Pale Ale, keeping it on the "pale" side (away from amber) and adding a good bit of maltiness to the final flavor. Caramel 20, Vienna and Munich are the three that appear to be on the table at the moment, but I am very open to suggestions, that are within my oft-stated goals.

I'm leaning toward Munich (another slight connection to my roots that would conform to the over-all goal); a couple of others that crossed my mind were Victory and Aromatic, but I don't know enough to consider them in comparison to the three above, or how they would play with the Chinook hops. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

Ron
 
If exploring hops is your goal, I would keep the grist focused on the base malt. Having a little bit of lighter crystal in the grist is OK too. Keeping that crystal percentage below 10% is wise. I found that including too much character in the malt backbone of a hoppy beer will diminish the perceptions of the hopping. That is why many of the most appreciated pale ales and IPAs have a relatively single track (uncomplex) malt character.
 
You make a good point, Martin (and others who have commented) - in trying to develop this recipe, I've been looking at it from the point of view of the malts; however, the thing about APAs is the exploration of hops. Even if I keep the bitterness itself down, I am guessing that the point of an APA is to highlight the hops - or, at least to not have them fighting for recognition with the malts. I am also guessing that I want to keep the colour pretty light, away from amber, since my goal is to have an American Pale Ale, rather than an American Amber Ale.

I've read the BCJP description of the APA twice now, and I think that helps a bit:

http://www.bjcp.org/2008styles/style10.php

For this first one, perhaps I should just stick to 2-row and Crystal/Caramel 20, (93/7). In my head, I like the idea of adding a maltiness, breadiness or toastiness to it (via Munich, Victory or...something....), but at the same time, I want it to be a definite APA.

Thanks again, guys - with your help, I'm edging a little closer. I've made a couple of minor tweaks and I think I have a better understanding of what I am doing. If anyone has any ideas on how to add a little supporting flavor in there while still keeping it firmly in APA territory, let me know - but if it isn't a realistic or practical goal, then perhaps I shouldn't be chasing that rabbit, at this time.
 
Reading this article was also quite helpful:

https://byo.com/bock/item/1759-american-pale-ale-style-profile

Based on that article, perhaps I should abandon the idea of using Victory or biscuit malt and stick with Caramel/Crystal 20.

ADD moment: The article does also mention adding a touch of wheat (up to 3%, combined with the base malt to total at least 90% of the grist). I'll consider this, as I definitely like good head characteristics in beers; but on the other hand, I want to produce an APA that is as clear as possible, and I am not sure if or how the wheat would affect that, if added.

Good reading, either way....
 
While I'm at it, here's a profile of the Chinook hop, which I will be using for this beer as described in my opening post:

http://brooklynbrewshop.com/themash/hop-of-the-week-chinook/

It looks like it can be a great hop, if not over-used. With my low IBU goal in mind, and considering that the amounts gradually get only slightly larger toward the end of the boil, I'm hoping that I can keep this lion tamed.
 
Taking everything into account, here is my slightly-modified recipe for this project. I will leave the original in my opening post, for comparison:

Amerikanisch
Pale Ale

By TasunkaWitko

1 gallon

OG - 1.055
FG - 1.010
ABV - 5.99%
IBUs - 30.32
SRM - 5.44


Fermentables

2.0 lb American Pale 2-Row Malt (MaltEurope) (93.0%)
0.15 lb American Caramel/Crystal 20L (7.0%)


60-Minute Mash @ ~152 degrees

60-Minute Boil


Hops

2.0 grams Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 60 minutes
2.5 grams Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 15 minutes
3.0 grams Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 1 minute


Yeast

Safale S-05

As for my musings about adding any wheat, I will forego any additions at this time; as stated in my opening post, I am looking for a basic, no-frills recipe, so I'll start with this and see what I end up with.

The only remaining question in my mind is whether this recipe would benefit by using Munich or Vienna in place of the Caramel/Crystal 20. At this time, it seems to make the most sense to stick with the C20, but I've got 3 days before placing the order for my ingredients, which is plenty of time for me to change my mind at least 6 times.... :tank:
 
I placed my order for the ingredients to brew this beer on Friday - I am expecting to brew this sometime during the week of 19-25 March.

I decided to stick simply with the Caramel 20, so that I can stick with my no frills goal. I have Munich and Vienna, and like them both, but I've never really seen what Caramel 20 can do, so now's the time.

Now, time to choose an image for the label!
redface.gif
 
Due to an extremely hot and busy summer, I have not yet brewed this beer. Dusting it off and looking at it again, I've got a couple of ideas that I plan to do to modify it while still keeping it simple and in-line with my goals.

a) I plan to work a bit of Munich in; just enough to give the malts what I hope will be an old-school-ish flavour.

b) I plan to adjust the hops schedule to reflect a modest bittering from Chinook with Cascade primarily for aroma and flavor. Having said that, if anyone has any suggestions on how to let the aroma and flavor of the Chinook hops peek through just a bit (without throwing the beer into a hop-bombed, high-IBU condition), I am all ears. My IBU goal is still to be somewhere between 30 and 31.

Above all, I want to keep this a simple, no-frills American Pale Ale, so that will be the first consideration.
 
You still haven't brewed this? Bummer. The Chinook and Cascade should work out well. Since you started this topic, I've brewed the WGD Light (which is a Pale Ale) from the Brooklyn Beer Shop Beer Making Book twice and it uses .1oz Chinook at boil, .1 oz Cascade at 30 and .05oz Cascade at 5 minutes and I think it came out really good. But now that I think of it, I might have to check my notes on that when I got home. I could have adjusted the amounts the reach the IBUs that I like.
 
Hi, Griffin -

I hear ya - it's been disgraceful that I haven't been able to brew at all this summer. Lots of things getting in the way, and the weather simply hasn't been congenial to it.

I happen to have the WGD Light, so I'll take a look at it and see what I can do for some inspiration. I'll also play with the malts a bit - thinking about equal amounts of C20 and Munich, as long as I can keep it in the realm of APA, and just shy of Amber.

I'm adding this link to a profile for Cascade hops:

https://brooklynbrewshop.com/blogs/themash/hop-profile-cascade-hops
 
Here's the current (dare I say final) plan for this, barring any huge mistakes:

Amerikanisch Pale Ale

All-Grain
1 gallon

OG - 10.51
FG - 10.09
ABV - 5.55%
IBUs - 30.58
SRM - 5.80


Fermentables

1.8 lb American Pale 2-Row Malt (MaltEurope) (90.0%)
0.1 lb American Caramel/Crystal 20L (5.0%)
0.1 lb American Munich 20L (5.0%)


60-Minute Mash @ ~152 degrees

60-Minute Boil


Hops

2.0 grams Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 60 minutes
2.0 grams Cascade Hops (7.25% AA) @ 30 minutes
3.0 grams Chinook Hops (14.1% AA) @ 1 minute
3.0 grams Cascade Hops (7.25% AA) @ 1 minute


Yeast

Safale S-05 - 1/2 package
This seems non-complicated and it conforms, as far as I can see and from what I have read of BCJP, to what an American Pale Ale should be. It reflects my German heritage, Montana background, and the combination of my hometown (Chinook, Montana) and my wife's home county (Cascade, Montana). The Chinook/Cascade combination has been described as a good one, and the hops are - I hope - in good proportion to each other. The IBUs are within my goal, and it looks like this will be just a bit (but not overly) malty, which is what I want.

I tried a couple of "Mountain Pale Ales" over the summer - one was a special issue from Rainier. They were good, but to my opinion a bit lacking. This recipe hopefully goes with that "mountain ale" concept, but improves on the commercial offerings that I've tried.

Unless there are any huge, glaring errors, I'll go with it. At best, I've got a good thing here; at worst, I'll need to tweak it a bit. :tank:
 
My two unsolicited cents worth, and not worth a penny more. The 30 minute Cascade is not going to do much. I would move it to a 5 or 10 minute addition and then up the 60 minute chinook addition to make up the IBU.

Either way it looks like a great beer. Similar to my summer house pale ale, also a beer in the classic ale style.
 
Hi, Griffin -
I hear ya - it's been disgraceful that I haven't been able to brew at all this summer. Lots of things getting in the way, and the weather simply hasn't been congenial to it.

I haven't brewed much this summer either, but I've managed to brew more than most summers. Life keeps getting in the way.

I've been brewing malty beers this year with Munich and pilsner malts, and a big part of them being malty is keeping the hops moderate. (IBU's in the low to mid 20's instead of >30)

So I'll suggest changing your 10% crystal malt to something 5% crystal and 5% Munich. It will be less sweet and heavy that way. Or if you really want to keep the crystal at 10%, do something like 80% pale malt, 10% crystal and 10% white rice. To make it as "American" as possible, use Cascade hops.

Edit: I saw your post #31 after I posted this :eek:
 
G'morning, guys and thanks for the feedback -

@rlmiller10 - I'll play with the hops schedule a little more, as you advise. I thought that the 1-minute additions would maximize aroma and flavor, but perhaps moving that to 5 minutes would be better. I'll see what I can do.

@z-bob - Hey! even if you posted it before you saw the updated recipe, it must mean that I am on the right track here...lol :rockin:

I will be out of town this weekend, but I am thinking that next week or weekend would be a good time to get back into it, as conditions are (finally) improving....

Thanks to all -

Ron
 
G'morning, guys and thanks for the feedback -

@rlmiller10 - I'll play with the hops schedule a little more, as you advise. I thought that the 1-minute additions would maximize aroma and flavor, but perhaps moving that to 5 minutes would be better. I'll see what I can do.

@z-bob - Hey! even if you posted it before you saw the updated recipe, it must mean that I am on the right track here...lol :rockin:

I will be out of town this weekend, but I am thinking that next week or weekend would be a good time to get back into it, as conditions are (finally) improving....

Thanks to all -

Ron

I didn't mean to move the 1 minute to 5. It was to move the 30 minute to 5 minutes to get more flavor and aroma out of that addition. The more I read the more I am cutting out any additions between 59 minutes and 10. Seems those middle additions don't boil long enough to get full isomerization for full utilization of the bittering potential. But are boiled long enough to drive off the taste and aroma components so not getting much left of that as well.
 
Ok - I understand, now ~ what do you think of moving the 30-minute addition to 20 minutes? The reason I ask is because I'm concerned about adding too much at the back end to compensate for the lost bitterness, and from what I know about Chinook hops, I'd want to be careful about that.
 
Ok - I understand, now ~ what do you think of moving the 30-minute addition to 20 minutes? The reason I ask is because I'm concerned about adding too much at the back end to compensate for the lost bitterness, and from what I know about Chinook hops, I'd want to be careful about that.

From what I have read 20 minutes and 30 both would have the drawback of not enough boil for full isomerization and yet enough to boil off aroma and most flavor.

Why are you concerned about too much at 60? Because I grew a bunch I have been using Chinook for all my bittering and it has worked great.
 
Two or three sources that I read stated that if I over-do it with Chinook hops, I'd end up some really harsh bitterness edging into cat litter.

Since this was my first time with the that hop and I am trying to avoid that, I figured I had better be conservative - but perhaps I am being overly-cautious?
 
Your hop combination looks great, but I'm not sure about the 30 minutes. (I have done 30 minute bittering hops before when I did not want full utilization) What if you move all the Cascade to 10 minutes? You will get more flavor and aroma from it that way, but I'd have to run it thru some brewing software to see what that does to the bitterness.
 
It looks as though there is a lot of agreement that I need to move my 30-minute addition forward.

I will do that (either 10 or 5 minutes - hell, maybe 7.5! :p ) and see what happens. I should be able to make adjustments to the additions to stay within my goals. I have a feeling that my amounts are very conservative to begin with, so there is probably a lot of room to work here.
 
Back
Top