Type A has female threads for attaching to the pump head and Type F has male threads for attaching into the ball valve. I only bought one Type A all the others were Type F.
Advice on connectors/connections
- Thread starter Yooper
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Type A has female threads for attaching to the pump head and Type F has male threads for attaching into the ball valve. I only bought one Type A all the others were Type F.
@yooper Check out the pump fitting kit that @bobby_m sells. It will inventory what is going to come with the kit. Exclude what you have (tubing). I found it to be the easier route.
@bobby_m if I am about to drop a ton on your site this weekend, is there a similar discount that you offered @yooper?
@bobby_m if I am about to drop a ton on your site this weekend, is there a similar discount that you offered @yooper?
OP
OP
@yooper Check out the pump fitting kit that @bobby_m sells. It will inventory what is going to come with the kit. Exclude what you have (tubing). I found it to be the easier route.
@bobby_m if I am about to drop a ton on your site this weekend, is there a similar discount that you offered @yooper?
I watched that video over and over- I still think that I need "F" for the in side of the one pump, due to it having a ballvalve in place (I'll just leave it), but for the other pump I'm unsure. Maybe buy both an A and F? I don't want to take it apart before the new stuff arrives (and I haven't even ordered it yet!) since I'm brewing on Sunday.
@Bobby_M- does the list above look about right? Males on all the vessels, so that makes 13, counting the "in" and "out" of the pump.
For the females, I came up with 11 for the hoses, plus one BL (elbow and female). Or maybe two elbows (via the BL)? They come apart, so I could use one or not, if needed in a different place, right? And if I order two BL, then the rest of the females are type D? or type B? Argggh.
I'm soooooo flummoxed by this!
OP
OP
One last question @Bobby_M - I decided on the Type D females for the hoses (except for two BLs with the elbow) but I can't find the 5/8" barb to go with it on your site. Can you tell me the # for it?
There is no reason for a valve to be on the pump inlet side and if you never close it, it's just another place to get dirty. I'd take that off and use a cam A on the pump inlet.
I like the BL cams on the hose ends that always attach to vessel drains. It would also make sense on the HERMS inlet since that hose will be coming from the pump below. I like the Cam BigC on all other hose ends.
You can also grab a couple extra of everything so that you can be a little more relaxed and then return whatever you don't need. It won't cost you more than $6 for a flat rate box which can hold quite a few camlocks.
Edit for Yooper's last post.. The video that suggested type D cams with 5/8" barbs is severely out of date. The Cam BigC has replaced the need for that since it has a 5/8 barb attached already. Not only that but it's way cheaper than the combo of parts. Use the Big C.
I like the BL cams on the hose ends that always attach to vessel drains. It would also make sense on the HERMS inlet since that hose will be coming from the pump below. I like the Cam BigC on all other hose ends.
You can also grab a couple extra of everything so that you can be a little more relaxed and then return whatever you don't need. It won't cost you more than $6 for a flat rate box which can hold quite a few camlocks.
Edit for Yooper's last post.. The video that suggested type D cams with 5/8" barbs is severely out of date. The Cam BigC has replaced the need for that since it has a 5/8 barb attached already. Not only that but it's way cheaper than the combo of parts. Use the Big C.
OP
OP
Awesome! Thank you- I'll put the Big C in my cart now and remove the D.
Plus, order a few more than I think I need....................
![Craft A Brew - Safale S-04 Dry Yeast - Fermentis - English Ale Dry Yeast - For English and American Ales and Hard Apple Ciders - Ingredients for Home Brewing - Beer Making Supplies - [1 Pack]](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/41fVGNh6JfL._SL500_.jpg)
OP
OP
Oh, one last thing! I think my cart is done- is there a coupon code to use?
As a thank you for talking yooper through this, anyone in this thread can enjoy 10% off purchases of $20 or more through tomorrow. Use coupon code YOOPERDEAL.
No extensions or retroactive applications.
Bobby
No extensions or retroactive applications.
Bobby
OP
OP
I ordered. Thank you so much for all the help, @hello and @CA_Mouse and to Bobby, thank you for the advice and time you spent with me!
And for the discount you offered all of us. You rock! :rockin:
And for the discount you offered all of us. You rock! :rockin:
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
With a little practice you can do them one-handed. It's not that tough.
But really, there's not many times when I'm brewing and I'm changing hoses around and both of my hands are not free. I just put my beer down and voila, two hands free.
OP
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I usually have both hands free, as well. The thing I noticed is that during recirculation, the connectors get hot and I have to remember to grab the hot pad before grabbing the connector!
Brian77095
Well-Known Member
eko
Well-Known Member
Yoop, is your CFC already threaded on the wort ends? If so you can ignore the rest of this.
Earlier this year I modified mine so I wasn't using tube clamps anymore. I only had 1/4" copper pipe coming out of the CFC. I wanted to sweat on some adapters but couldn't get the right size locally so I opted for compression fittings. So I put a 3/8" compression adapter (3/8" to 1/2") on each end. Then threading on type F camlocks finished the job.
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LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
The arms on the camlocks don't really get hot so you'll have an easier time with camlocks then as long as you handle the camlocks by the pull rings connected to the camlocks and the tubing itself.
eko
Well-Known Member
Is it just me, or do those pull rings tend to get in the way every time you try to close a camlock?
I've taken them off at least half of my camlocks, and have been trying to decide which is worse: closing the cams with the rings in place, or opening the cams with the rings removed. So far closing the cams with the rings in place is winning as the most annoying, and I'm very close to removing all the rings. Probably would've done it already, but by the end of brew day that's one extra thing I haven't felt like doing.
I wish someone had told me right from day 1: SKIP hose barbs! Go straight to camlocks.
Maybe I'll say that about triclover one day. Although given the cost, the conversion required, the replacement parts ... nah, I'll probably never know first hand.
Damn, I can't order until Saturday.
Trying to ease the pain of what looks like a $200 + order.
LandoLincoln
Well-Known Member
No, it's not just you. The rings just love angling themselves just right so you can't close them. Maybe smaller rings would be better.
Triclovers are ridiculously pricey for what you get and they are definitely more time consuming than camlocks. I'd only think about triclovers if I ever went pro.
dmcman73
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Awesome! Thank you- I'll put the Big C in my cart now and remove the D.
Plus, order a few more than I think I need....................
Yes order more than you think you need. I thought I got everything only the find out I missed few and had to place another order.
Thanks Bobby! A great deal that I unfortunately can't use at this time, but it shows why I will always order from you!
@bobby_m i couldn't make my order until today, I had the pump kit and $237 worth of items in the cart but now your tubing is out of stock. Will you have it again very soon? I don't want to make 2 orders on top of missing your 10% off.
brick_haus
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Whew, I thought nobody was going to suggest that Yooper remove the ball valve from the inlet to #1 pump. Good looking out Bobby! That valve will interrupt the smooth flow to the pump and may cause cavitation also. This would slowly (or maybe quickly!) destroy the impeller.
Brian77095
Well-Known Member
I use a ton of those camlocks. They become MUCH MUCH MUCH MUCH better if you remove the rings from the wings. OMG those rings drove me crazy.
I guess if you have a fixed system and you CIP you don't remove hoses much, you can use the rings to tie the connection down, but I remove them all the time. Did I mention I hated those rings?
I guess if you have a fixed system and you CIP you don't remove hoses much, you can use the rings to tie the connection down, but I remove them all the time. Did I mention I hated those rings?
I've been improperly using a ball valve to throttle the flow to a March pump for 6 years, no problem. I will add another valve to the output one of these days though, I promise.
eko
Well-Known Member
I knew I wasn't crazy. Not that this proves that ... You're sane, right?
dmcman73
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As much as they are a pita, they are great when trying to remove a very hot cam lock.
You can do them one handed with some practice.
Here is a link to a thread where I go into WAY more detail than I needed to about camlocks, a tiny bit of it doesn't really apply to brewing but I posted it for those googling:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=432644&page=2
I think you made a good decision going with camlocks. I'm still putting together my electric system but I do not plan to use any quick connectors at all, instead I'm going to build a valve-manifold system. If I did choose a quick connector, it would certainly be cam locks though.
I actually recommend using the male as the stationary whenever possible, but it's not really a big deal.
Good luck!
Here is a link to a thread where I go into WAY more detail than I needed to about camlocks, a tiny bit of it doesn't really apply to brewing but I posted it for those googling:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=432644&page=2
I think you made a good decision going with camlocks. I'm still putting together my electric system but I do not plan to use any quick connectors at all, instead I'm going to build a valve-manifold system. If I did choose a quick connector, it would certainly be cam locks though.
I actually recommend using the male as the stationary whenever possible, but it's not really a big deal.
Good luck!
The main purpose of the rings is really just to hold the pins that can lock the ears from coming up from vibration. A lot of them don't even come with the pins. Other than that the only thing they are good for is as you mentioned.
OP
OP
Ha- that ball valve has been there since about 2007. It's fine. I never close it, of course- but it has never caused a problem. I was going to leave it in place, because I'm more worried about cracking something when trying to get it off! But I'll remove it, or at least try to, when I put the new parts on.
It's my "water" pump. I have one pump for the HLT/water side only. The bottom draining HLT feeds right into it- it's never once cavitated on me. The other pump, the wort pump, always has issues with priming and stuff. A couple of times it's even squealed when it suddenly had a cavitation issue. But never the pump with the ball valve on the "in" side!
