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Bubbles2

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Greetings Y'all,

Thanks for looking in. I've been surfing on here and I cannot figure when and how to add my flavors.
Many of you state to leave it (the brew) alone and do not worry about a Clearing Secondary jug. "Secondary are for the purest".

I have a 6.5 gal Big Mouth Bubbler as my primary. I'd like to have a Coffee Chocolate Stout flavor.
I ordered a Milk Stout kit 5 Gal but was wondering if I need to get a secondary jug/Carboy to flavor it, or can I use my 9"x2" Stainless Mesh steeper to add some flavors within the 6.5 gal Primary? When?

Or do I substitute H2o and use instead decaf coffee to get my coffee flavor and add then chocolate a couple weeks before bottling?

Thanks for any details
 

triethylborane

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what are you going to use for the chocolate? Nibs? Cholaca?

When I used nibs for my milk chocolate stout, I would add 6-8oz per 5gal (soaked in vodka for 24hrs) to primary after krausen drops. Wait 10 days before doing a gravity reading, if gravity reading is within target, bottle. 6-8oz is for a lot of chocolate flavor, its a preference.

I now use Cholaca, which is liquid cacao, but I go 8-10oz, dont sanitize and follow the same timing procedure as with the nibs. Again, 8-10oz of cholaca is on the high end, my chocolate milk stout is consumed by a few women that are chocolate fiends.

For coffee, I use whole beans (of what I like to drink for coffee) 3oz per 5 gal and soak in vodka for 24 hrs, then dump into primary when krausen drops. Then I let it sit for 10 days, then do gravity, bottling, etc.

I use whole beans because the grounds are a PITA in my experience when going to bottle/keg. I can dump the whole bean in, get a nice coffee flavor without it tasting like sucking on a dead cigar, and thats about it. Some might say to use coarse ground coffee and thats ok too, its just preferences on flavor and technique.
 
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Bubbles2

Bubbles2

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triethylborane Thank you, I did this once before with a buddy and we added a 1/2 can of Hershey's. Do not remember when it was added.
Krausen Drops? Does that come with these ingredient kits? I was not asked at check out if I wanted those....

my order looks like this:
99-0824 Bundle Item: BE1-R01837
Maltodextrin - 4 oz
$0.00 x 1
$0.00

24-4746 Bundle Item: BE1-R01837
Small Muslin Bag (Hop Bag)
$0.00 x 2
$0.00

24-9760 Bundle Item: BE1-R01837
Priming Sugar - 5 oz
$0.00 x 1
$0.00

82-002 Bundle Item: BE1-R01837
White Labs English Ale WLP002
$0.00 x 1
$0.00

BE1-R01837 AHS Christmas Milk Stout (13B) - EXTRACT
Would you like to add a Yeast Option?: Add White Labs WLP 002 English Ale - Liqdui - $6.99
Would you like to Double Pitch your Yeast?: No
Would You Like a Cold Pack For Your Yeast?: No Thank You
Would You Like Priming Sugar?: Yes, Please Add 5 oz Priming Sugar - $1.19
Would You Like to add Muslin Hop Bag(s)?: Yes, Please Add 2 Hop Bags - $1.09
Would You Like Alcohol Boost? Adds 1% ABV To Your Beer?: No Thank You
Would You Like to Add Additional Body to Your Beer?: Yes, Please Add 4 oz Malto-Dextrin for Body - $0.99
 
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Bubbles2

Bubbles2

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C-Rider Thanks for the reply. When you state "mash" do you mean at time of first boil like when you Hop 10 minutes out?
Add Coffee to the brew after the yeast is all done and about to bottle and prime?
 

C-Rider

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C-Rider Thanks for the reply. When you state "mash" do you mean at time of first boil like when you Hop 10 minutes out?Yes. With 5min left in the boil.
Add Coffee to the brew after the yeast is all done and about to bottle and prime? Yes again. I add to the bottling bucket. If you do this add a little at a time till you get the taste you want.
 

triethylborane

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triethylborane Thank you, I did this once before with a buddy and we added a 1/2 can of Hershey's. Do not remember when it was added.
Krausen Drops? Does that come with these ingredient kits? I was not asked at check out if I wanted those....

Krausen is the mixture of protein and sediment that forms on top of the fermenting wort:

krausen.jpg


What I meant by drops, is when the krausen falls back into the fermented beer. It doesnt always drop, but it typically a portion of it will. No need to purchase krausen drops.
 
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Bubbles2

Bubbles2

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Appreciate the "get back" on this.. Hey while I've got you on the line.... directions state to lower Mash to 80f as soon as possible at the end of the Boil.
The yeast 'a packet of liquid', I believe that is "pitch-able," the direction states to warm to 72-78f (24 hours) prior to adding... So if the yeast needs to be 72-78 does that mean I need to keep my Ferment-er at that temp for the duration?
My house is avg 65-70, to warm on the cheap? Plus making dark beer how does one see a floating Thermometer?
 

Calder

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Many questions, you have a lot to learn. This is good that you are asking them. We all probably had questions when we started that we would cringe at now.

You have 002, an English yeast, this ferment best at temps around 65 F. If the temp is too high, it will throw off unwanted flavors.

Don't be too anal about following instructions to the letter. They are more guidelines to making a 'decent' beer, and some of them are not good advice. Don't fret exact temperatures, while sanitation is needed, being super clean is not a necessity, healthy yeast will cover a lot of sins.

The yeast pack is indeed pitchable. You would do better to make a starter, but for now, just pitch it. Don't worry about the temp. It could be pitched from fridge temp, but is better to warm up to room temp before pitching - exact temp is not critical. Pitching from room temp runs a risk of shocking the yeast and killing some cells. It will still work, but may take longer to show active fermentation. General recommendation is for yeast to be within 10 F of the wort you are pitching into.

Quick recommendation: Make sure wort is fully cooled before pitching yeast. Leave overnight if necessary to get down below 70 F before pitching yeast. Yes, I know there is concern leaving the wort for extended time. But .... if you pitch at 80 F, the yeast may start up while the temp is still around 75 F, and will not come down until active fermentation is done. Yeast generate a lot of heat during fermentation. Result = unwanted flavors; it will still be drinkable, it will still be beer, but will be much better if you had waited until the wort is below 70 F before pitching

Cooling wort (not the mash); it is generally accepted cooling down quickly is beneficial, as it drops proteins (helps clear the beer), and minimizes risk of contamination reproducing (120 F is a great incubator). However, many people do no cooling, and just pour the hot wort into the fermenter, seal it and let it cool for 24 hours before pitching yeast. very popular in Australia.

Adding Coffee. I just add whole beans a week before bottling. Whole beans is less mess and coffee readily gives up its flavors. there is no improvement with crushing the beans. I take the beans out of a fresh pack - no sanitizing; I expect them to already be OK straight from the pack. After all they were roasted and have no nutrients for bugs to work on. 2 to 4 ozs per 5 gallons.

Chocolate: I like using cocoa powder. Cheap non-brand is perfect. Don't use expensive cocoa, as it has stuff added to it. Unsweetened and Low fat (like 1%) is important. I use 8 ozs per 5 gallons. I put the cocoa in a large bowl, and slowly add water to it, need to add a little water and then mix, then add a little more, and mix, ...... and repeat until you get a slurry. 8 to 16 ozs of water should do it. I add a couple of ozs of sugar too to make sure the yeast attack it and disperse the chocolate. Heat to sanitize (boil in pot, or cover and zap in microwave). let cool a little and add. Adding at 100 to 120 F is not a problem, the small amount being added will have little affect on bulk temp. I would add to secondary, but can go in primary. Add after active fermentation subsides. Cocoa nibs are also popular - I've not tried them.

There is no Right way to do things. Many of us do things in different ways and get similar results.

Good luck with your brew.
 
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Bubbles2

Bubbles2

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Thank you for such details on the reply Calder appreciate the time it took to expound on the process, what to NOT worry about. Thanks again guys I appreciate it. Gonna brew today, gotta buddy coming in from Europe in about 4-5 weeks.
 

btbnl

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Cooling wort (not the mash); it is generally accepted cooling down quickly is beneficial, as it drops proteins (helps clear the beer), and minimizes risk of contamination reproducing (120 F is a great incubator). However, many people do no cooling, and just pour the hot wort into the fermenter, seal it and let it cool for 24 hours before pitching yeast. very popular in Australia.
Just be aware that very few fermentors can take both the heat of boiling wort and the pressure induced by the shrinkage as it cools. Most folks doing no-chill either use special food-grade HDPE containers (and then either transfer to a fermentor once cooled, or ferment in that container), or leave the wort in a covered kettle overnight to cool at the slightly elevated risk of infection.
 
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Bubbles2

Bubbles2

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10.66.JPG
Thank you for the help and heads up on the vessel crackage. I made my batch with all your help. Thanks again. I ended up taking the boil pot outside and set into a feed bucket with water and Ice, it took about a half hour to come down to 80 (if that) and an hour to come down to 68. It is Cold here in Lower Alabama. 40f Yeast was at 68 on pitch, as was the batch.

The gravity dealeo read 1066 + 1.5 about for temp calibration adjustment. Calibrated at 60f I am at 69f I believe I read it right. So (10.6750) ?

How long does it take to bottle usually?
 
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