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About to throw in the towel.....

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jc03

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Hello, I just finished up a batch of Dead Ringer IPA and am feeling down about my brewing. It's drinkable but not good. I've brewed 4 total batches and 2 have been really good and 2 barely drinkable. I've paid close attention to sanitizing everything and have followed the kits directions (except didn't rack my first IPA to the secondary). Is this normal or am I just wasting my time?
 
Hello, I just finished up a batch of Dead Ringer IPA and am feeling down about my brewing. It's drinkable but not good. I've brewed 4 total batches and 2 have been really good and 2 barely drinkable. I've paid close attention to sanitizing everything and have followed the kits directions (except didn't rack my first IPA to the secondary). Is this normal or am I just wasting my time?

If you're using good quality kits, fermenting at the proper temperature (mid 60s generally), and following the instructions, the beer should be very good.

Are you using tap water that may not be right for making great beer?
 
Its normal if you don't have proper temp control or you are properly pitching enough yeast for fermentation (if I had to guess your problem based on almost no info). Post your recipe and your process and you will get a lot of help on how to improve.

good luck
 
It is not normal. In addition to Yooper's questions, I have to ask which two didn't work (recipes) and are you controlling your fermentation temps? How long do you give your beers before you bottle/keg?
 
Document your process and fermentation and post it here. Details!

Like Yooper asked, what is your water source? What kind of temp control do you have over your brew day equip and fermenting?
 
+1 on ferm temp......

if you brewed the same extract kit multiple times, the same way, and had large taste swings, I put money on poor temp control!
Temp control is the single most important thing in brewing consistent extract beers.
 
Maybe you just don't like the styles you made. A few weeks back somebody posted that they made a pils and it tasted bad. After the description of the taste, the poster went to the store and bought some pils and came to the conclusion that the beer he made tasted pretty much like the store bought pils. Turns out that he just doesn't really like pils.
 
Jc a bit of patience may be in order. You mentioned pitching the yeast on this beer on another thread on July 27, not even a month ago. Try a batch 3-4 weeks in primary (dry hop in primary with 1 week to go) followed by 3 weeks in the bottles and see how that comes out. You can always try going faster once slower is working out ok.

Also some specifics on the flavor issues might help more experienced brewers pinpoint opportunities for improvement.
 
The dead ringer all grain kit from NB was my first batch of beer. What they dont tell you is that with the amount of yeast they give you, you are under pitching. Also they don't tell you about fermentation temps.

You need to calculate how much yeast you need for the gravity and volume of wort. Also know the yeast your using and what temp its optimal at.
 
Thanks everyone. I'll try and answer some of the questions. The 2 kits that were very good were Northern Brewers Dry Dock Pale Ale and the Irish Red that came with my starter kit. I am an IPA fan and tried a Racer 5 clone from Adventures In Homebrewing that didn't work out. The Dead Ringer IPA is the one I just finished that has more of a "malty" taste as my wife says. The Racer clone had a similar taste and very little hopiness. The carboys have been on my basement floor. The temp is somewhere around 67 degrees.

Here's what I did on this one. Primary fermenter July 27th (airlock bubbled almost immidiately and for 3 days)-Aug 12. Racked to secondary Aug 12 and dryhopped for last 7 days. Racked to keg Aug 21 and forcecarbed at 35psi for 48 hours, went to 0 psi then up to 12 psi. Tried on Aug 24.

When I racked it into the keg the first smell when I opened the carboy was very good and hoppy but as I got lower the smell was more malty and stale. Maybe like when you get the first beer of the day at a bar that hasn't cleaned their lines. Any help would be appreciated.
 
Or let it settle out clear or slightly misty before dry hopping? All that settling trub & yeast can get coated by the hop oils & go down to see old hob.
 
I'd call it on this one flavor-wise. Start another batch & let it finish & settle out clear before dry hopping. Then carbonate in the keg with less pressure so it takes a more normal amount of time.
 
I often like to keg hop beers that should have a lot of fresh hop aroma. I'll usually boil a muslin hop sack and a weight (e.g., a stainless butter knife), load in an ounce or ounce and a half of pellet hops, and just put it in the keg. Normally before I carbonate, but I've added to a carbed beer before, too, and it can make a really big difference in a beer with less hop presence than I wanted. Just a thought.
 
Dry hops in primary followed by dry hops in the keg works well for me. Also think about oxygen exposure in transfer to keg. I am leaning toward priming sugar in kegs lately to let the yeast scrub oxygen picked up in transfer but know im in minority on that.

Finally could be your water if you are getting malty favors in IPA that push aside the hops. Are you adding gypsum?


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If you aren't satisfied with your beer. I suggest turning to your notes. Look at them, and then tweak what needs to be tweaked. Your notes will be the key to making good beer better. Along with fine tuning your process within your system. ::cheers::


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Dude...you need to brew up some of BierMuncher's Blond. Then go to Pale Ale. Do that a bunch of times and you'll be happy.
 
Ok Jc what you need to do then is just find one you like and make it over and over and over again till it is amazing. Lol then try other recipes.
 
As someone who hasn't been brewing long and has no knowledge I can't give any advice on the beer. But, wanna say don't get discouraged. I made a honey wheat that was way over carbed and had so much bite it burned, then I made an Irish Red that came out black and not to great, then came the Belgium Wit that smelled like rotten fruit, and lastly a milk stout that was thin and only 5% ABV. Made a lot of mediocre beers but then my last beer, Good JuJu clone turned out amazing. Couldn't have been more happy with it. It is so delicious and I feel like I nailed it. Just to some practice and learning from mistakes.
 
I'd call it on this one flavor-wise. Start another batch & let it finish & settle out clear before dry hopping. Then carbonate in the keg with less pressure so it takes a more normal amount of time.


I disagree kind of. He can dry hop in the keg right now if he wants. That is if you're right about the co2 blasting the hop profile due to carbonic bite.

Regardless, lacking hop profile doesn't really make a beer nasty.
 
I disagree kind of. He can dry hop in the keg right now if he wants. That is if you're right about the co2 blasting the hop profile due to carbonic bite.

Regardless, lacking hop profile doesn't really make a beer nasty.

Yeah, he can dry hop in the keg for aroma. But it doesn't do much for flavor. It's the fact that our senses of smell & taste are linked that folks think they're getting more flavor.
 
Yeah, he can dry hop in the keg for aroma. But it doesn't do much for flavor. It's the fact that our senses of smell & taste are linked that folks think they're getting more flavor.

True but his complaint was "the smell was more malty and stale..." ergo, dry hopping would enhance the smell. I'd dry hop the crap out of it and tell anyone else to do the same before I tell them to "call it". It is certainly worth an ounce of hops and a few days just to see. There is also the unknown, is it really the carbonation? No one can really be 100%.
 
Yeah, that can help of course. But getting more malty flavor than hop flavor is the kicker. The most I could think of was the co2 bursting. Although I have had IPA's loose their hop flavor in the bottles over about a month in. Even with the new bench capper. Difficult to explain that?...
 
Yeah, that can help of course. But getting more malty flavor than hop flavor is the kicker. The most I could think of was the co2 bursting. Although I have had IPA's loose their hop flavor in the bottles over about a month in. Even with the new bench capper. Difficult to explain that?...

Yeah totally weird. I drank my first and only IPA fast. My hoppy pale ale lasted slightly longer but didn't fade like that. Hops are weird.
 
Yeah, they can be at that. I was just wondering if the chemical additive that makes hops more pronounced would cause this if lacking? I'm not real big on water chemistry yet?...
 
I've never brewed that recipe but if I remember correctly the amount of Centennial isn't overwhelming. Like some people have said, dry hop that keg! I think the "flavor/aroma" differentiation talk is silly. Sure our taste receptors may not respond to dry hop compounds the way they do to isoalpha acids or something else but the perception of flavor is there big time, and that's all that matters.
 
And by temp I'm gonna guess you mean ambient temp. Your actual fermentation temp could easily be in the 70s.

Agreed. OP - I'd take a hard look at your fermentation temperatures. Leaving it up to ambient is a great way to end up with off-flavors and less than stellar beer. If you even just do a very basic swamp cooler set up during the first week of fermentation you'll see a significant improvement in quality and consistency. It's a shame to waste a $50 + kit and your time when basic temperature control is really simple and affordable.
 
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