Dead Ringer is a Two Hearted clone. It's a good kit and people here have brewed a LOT of that beer using the recipe here. There are a few things that are basic to all brewing:
1) Sanitation. Sometimes overdone, but that's not a bad thing. Probably nothing going on here.
2) Fermentation Temps. The yeast produce their own heat, so 67 degree ambient could be 72 or a few more in a vigorous fermentation.
3) Water. Kind of a big deal for an IPA. You want a lot of sulfates to really bring out the hops. And of course for any beer, you MUST know if your water is treated with Chloramines or Chlorine or otherwise has a very unusual amount of something.
I'm not advocating a crash course in brewing water chemistry. You should be able to find out from your local water company what is in your water. If you have a well, you can have your water tested at Ward Labs for like $30. (Form is on their website, and you can simply send your sample inside a well -rinsed out soda bottle.)
OR, just buy some spring water from the store. There is a great chance it's suitable for brewing.
At this point I highly recommend adding some more dry hops to the keg. My method is to place some sanitized marbles (or any small stainless object, such as a butter knife) in a sanitized bag along with the hops and suspend that in the keg. I tie unflavored dental floss to the bag and tie it off on the keg handle. The floss is thin enough to not leak CO2 when it's run across the lid seal.
I dry hop all my hoppy beers in the keg (Although I have since soldered a tab to the underside of my keg lids to make it easier to tie off the bag) and the dry hops can stay in the keg for the 2 months it takes me to drink it. The cold will keep them from causing a grassy flavor. You may wish to pull them out after 2 weeks or so.
Don't give up on brewing! There are a LOT of different ways of doing things to improve your beers, but only a few basic things that will cause you to brew bad beer.
1) Sanitation. Sometimes overdone, but that's not a bad thing. Probably nothing going on here.
2) Fermentation Temps. The yeast produce their own heat, so 67 degree ambient could be 72 or a few more in a vigorous fermentation.
3) Water. Kind of a big deal for an IPA. You want a lot of sulfates to really bring out the hops. And of course for any beer, you MUST know if your water is treated with Chloramines or Chlorine or otherwise has a very unusual amount of something.
I'm not advocating a crash course in brewing water chemistry. You should be able to find out from your local water company what is in your water. If you have a well, you can have your water tested at Ward Labs for like $30. (Form is on their website, and you can simply send your sample inside a well -rinsed out soda bottle.)
OR, just buy some spring water from the store. There is a great chance it's suitable for brewing.
At this point I highly recommend adding some more dry hops to the keg. My method is to place some sanitized marbles (or any small stainless object, such as a butter knife) in a sanitized bag along with the hops and suspend that in the keg. I tie unflavored dental floss to the bag and tie it off on the keg handle. The floss is thin enough to not leak CO2 when it's run across the lid seal.
I dry hop all my hoppy beers in the keg (Although I have since soldered a tab to the underside of my keg lids to make it easier to tie off the bag) and the dry hops can stay in the keg for the 2 months it takes me to drink it. The cold will keep them from causing a grassy flavor. You may wish to pull them out after 2 weeks or so.
Don't give up on brewing! There are a LOT of different ways of doing things to improve your beers, but only a few basic things that will cause you to brew bad beer.
