3500W, 4500W or 5500W

[The Pol]

They make all sorts... I am using a RIPP element that has been used in plenty of builds. Never seen one in person, but I presume it is OK, since ppl are using them in thier BKs all over the place. It is the only 5500W ULWD element I can find, due to its design.

 

[bmarley5780]

Hey Pol-

RIPP?

-Thanks

 

[Gregredic]

ripp element

 

[The Pol]

Yeah, here is where I am getting mine....

CAMCO MFG 2963 5500W 240V Ripp Element

 

[BrewBeemer]

Pol; got a question on that RIPP 5,500 watt heating element.
What is the offset off the element from centerline of the threads?
What i'm asking is what is the minimum space or compartment that element can screw into with it having that wavy design in swing from the thread centerline. Another measurement way is how large of internal diameter of tubing is required should I build a chamber after stepping up from a reducer with a 1" thread to screw the element in?
It's been a coupe years plus since I installed one without taking notes on the swing clearance required, stupid on my part not thinking future notes taken or needed. I sold that brewing system hence no element in hand to measure off.
Keep that project rolling and your progress postings.

 

[The Pol]

I do not have the RIPP in hand yet... luckily I found a hardware store ONLINE that is actually in downtown Indy... thier prices on many electrical items I need are HALF the cost of Lowes! Shop RonsHomeAndHardware.com For Small Appliances, Hardware, Housewares, Organic Cleaning Products, CFLs, Weber Grills & So Much More

I will keep updates coming as this progresses. I am painting my dining room and office today (HATE builder white) so that SWMBO is satisfied for a while, THEN I can get back to building.

My next project is the keg conversion, I will take pics and document it here. Thanks for all the support and information guys.

 

[The Pol]

Stopped into an ACE Hardware today on my way to the Dollar Store... I was looking for the 5500W Ripp element and they wanted $32!!!! TruValue has it for $18... ACE, that is spanish for "gang rape"

 

[kappclark]

They make all sorts... I am using a RIPP element that has been used in plenty of builds. Never seen one in person, but I presume it is OK, since ppl are using them in thier BKs all over the place. It is the only 5500W ULWD element I can find, due to its design.

Once I get the Keggle, what is involved in installing ?

I assume this should go into a keggle, and not a 40 QT brewpot ,,

 

[The Pol]

Um, drill a hole, stick it in, seal on the OUTside... use a SS lock nut on the inside... viola...

 

[bmarley5780]

Anyone one know where to find 6/4 wire ?

 

[The Pol]

Ya know... Lowes maxed out at 10/4 here... I am sure you could find it anywhere contractors buy supplies, since they would use it for 50A applications and such. Good question, and I will get back to you on that! Here is a link... http://shop.genuinedealz.com/items/item.aspx?itemid=6040229

As it stands right now, I cannot get 10AWG individual wires at Lowes to wire the inside of my control box, so I have to buy the 10/4 and take off the outer sheath and pull the wires out. Gotta do what ya gotta do!

Today if I dont get called in to work I am going to draw up a template for the control panel face to lay it out.

 

[bakins]

As it stands right now, I cannot get 10AWG individual wires at Lowes to wire the inside of my control box, so I have to buy the 10/4 and take off the outer sheath and pull the wires out. Gotta do what ya gotta do!
.

Be sure to use stranded, not solid, wire. My first one was solid wire and it sucked trying to manipulate it. The stranded wire is 100 times better in a control box.

 

[The Pol]

Good point, the stuff at Lowes is solid... I need to source some 10AWG stranded for the box... thanks!

 

[LooyvilleLarry]

They have the stranded too. It's like 2.33 /ft.

 

[bmarley5780]

Alrighty then.. I thought it was just my lowes that didnt carry it.

Good to know on the stranded wire as well.

 

[The Pol]

Yeah, Lowes kinda sucks for stuff like this... the ONLY thing I can get there for the control box really is the 12 x 12 project box.

 

[kal]

I'll be adding 5500W elements to two of my Blichmann 20gal pots using weldless kits like this:

Questions:

So how does one ground the pot properly? On other words, how do you attach the green wire to the pot?

How are people covering up the wires on the outside of the pot to make it safe? Is there an easy way to use plugs so that I don't have a six foot cable dangling around when you go to wash the pot?

Kal

 

[bmarley5780]

Here's one way....

 

[The Pol]

I am potting my electrical connections to the element in a block of solid epoxy. Theoretically I could spray the connections with water and there would be no issue. I did this on my HLT as well

I have also seen people installing the element using simply the seal that came with the element and a single SS straight thread nut on the inside of the kettle. Total cost, about $14 for the SS nut.

You could do an electrical box sort of thing as seen above, and have the element wired into a three prong outlet secured to the ouside of the box, THEN use a pigtail from the control box to the kettle, but then you have an open electrical connection right at the kettle, which you are trying to get away from.

 

[bmarley5780]

- deleted - Forgot how to read -
Wrong wire size for the main power.

 

[slimer]

The ground for the 120V element in this write-up:Wort-O-Matic: The Electric HLT (or how I built a water heater in a cooler)) is a copper ring that he cut out.

 

[kal]

Here's one way....

Thanks bmarley5780 - but I don't want to weld anything onto my Blichmann pots.

I am potting my electrical connections to the element in a block of solid epoxy.

What's the epoxy in? Isn't there something that holds it in place?

You could do an electrical box sort of thing as seen above, and have the element wired into a three prong outlet secured to the ouside of the box, THEN use a pigtail from the control box to the kettle, but then you have an open electrical connection right at the kettle, which you are trying to get away from.

Open connection only if the power is on. I would use 30A locking connectors. Just trying to figure out how to attache a metal or plastic ABS box to the side of the pot. This may be all easier to figure out once I order and receive everything. I'm trying to visualize how it'll work without any of the parts.

The ground for the 120V element in this write-up:Wort-O-Matic: The Electric HLT (or how I built a water heater in a cooler)) is a copper ring that he cut out.

Hard to tell from the pic, but I seems that the element mount is now grounded? (Obviously the water cooler isn't grounded as it's plastic). This would work I suppose if the copper was in contact with the side of my SS pot... again, maybe I need to wait 'til I have the elements and the weldless fitting and then see what'll work.

Kal

 

[lustreking]

So how does one ground the pot properly? On other words, how do you attach the green wire to the pot?

This is what I did for a heat stick:

I covered the hot and neutral connections with JB Weld, and drilled and tapped a hole in the element to attach the ground wire. I imagine that the same procedure would work for mounting it in a kettle.

 

[bmarley5780]

Togo along with the epoxy, I also read someone using that liquid electrical tape.

Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

 

[The Pol]

I use PVC sleeves or caps (depending on the application) fill them with JB Weld or another suitable insulating epoxy and viola... it is easy. It is as strong as steel, and an insulator... super safe IMHO

 

[kal]

This is what I did for a heat stick:

I covered the hot and neutral connections with JB Weld, and drilled and tapped a hole in the element to attach the ground wire. I imagine that the same procedure would work for mounting it in a kettle.

Thanks. That's one idea. My concern would be to put some sort of box or plug to provide strain relief. While what you did works, it puts the strain on the actual wires instead of the wire sheath (housing).

Take a look at how they did it here in this Electric Conversion Kit: Home brewery electric conversion kits

I can't really tell what they used, but the elements look like they'd install just a washer and likely a silicon o-ring (not shown). The electrical connections are nicely covered up.

Togo along with the epoxy.

What's togo? (Other than a country of western Africa on the Gulf of Guinea?)

I use PVC sleeves or caps (depending on the application) fill them with JB Weld or another suitable insulating epoxy and viola... it is easy. It is as strong as steel, and an insulator... super safe IMHO

Interesting. Got a pic of this Pol?

Thanks guys!

Kal

 

[kal]

Thanks bmarley5780 - but I don't want to weld anything onto my Blichmann pots.

Actually, I take that back. That's not welded. It's soldered with Stay Brite 8 silver solder and Stay Clean liquid flux. I take it's done with a regular propane torch like for soldering copper pipes. That would be easy but would likely discolour my nice new Blichmann pots.

You can read about it here: Wort-O-Matic: Carl's Electric HLT

Kal

 

[lustreking]

Thanks. That's one idea. My concern would be to put some sort of box or plug to provide strain relief. While what you did works, it puts the strain on the actual wires instead of the wire sheath (housing).

Yeah, my strain relief is in the handle of the heatstick.

I think you could get an electrical junction box, drill a hole the size of the threads, and mount that between your kettle wall and heating element. That should take care of your grounding problem, as well as your strain relief problem. I still think that I'd cover the electrical connections with epoxy though.

Then I'd use the bits you pictured earlier to attach it to your kettle on the inside.

 

[bakins]

I drilled a small hole at the top of my pot and ran the ground wire to it and screwed it to the pot with a SS bolt and nut. I also screwed the ground wire to my electrical box on side of pot. I figured this should be pretty well grounded.

 

[kal]

I think you could get an electrical junction box, drill a hole the size of the threads, and mount that between your kettle wall and heating element. That should take care of your grounding problem, as well as your strain relief problem. I still think that I'd cover the electrical connections with epoxy though.

Agreed. What you mention makes sense. It would have to be a metal (conductive) electrical junction box of course....

Kal