3500W, 4500W or 5500W

Williams 728
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The Pol said:
What sort of thermocouples are you using? The ones I see are screw in types and then I cannot move my BK. How do you have your thermocouple set up.
Click to expand...

Since I made my own temp probes using the LM34CAZ thermistors, I used sensor cables with quick disconnects so I can disconnect them easily.
 
Sooo, that switch would work on both hots, one leaving the SSR and one coming on from the 50A outlet on the wall. It will switch both... that sounds reasonable.

How about a thermocouple that will allow me to move my kettle (disconnects)
 
The Pol said:
What sort of thermocouples are you using? The ones I see are screw in types and then I cannot move my BK. How do you have your thermocouple set up.
Click to expand...

I got mine from McMaster Carr - 3871K77. I rigged up a weldless fitting using 1/4 compression fitting and o-rings.

Here it is from the inside:

IMG_1899.JPG
 
The Pol said:
Sooo, that switch would work on both hots, one leaving the SSR and one coming on from the 50A outlet on the wall. It will switch both... that sounds reasonable.

How about a thermocouple that will allow me to move my kettle (disconnects)
Click to expand...

Pol; you looking for a portable unit that you can breakdown and set up elsewhere? I would use 50 amp 240 volt twist lock cord caps and plugs mounted to the back of your control panel that takes care of the cords feeding the elements in the pots, keggles or kegs. Disconnect them from the control panel and move as seperate units.
On the thermocouples do as Bull8042 stated with quick disconects, if it were my unit I would use gold plated 1/8" jacks to maintain a set minimum resistance at that junction spot to prevent different false resistance readings to the PID so it can repeat accurate signals to the SSR's for accurate temps if you installed thermocouples to your pots. Seems you do not want thermocouples at all in your pots only the one controller for the HLT.

From what little I have worked with PID's, mostly PLC's (I was on big pipe bending, cable feeders, rigging and big cable pulls. One long run was 3,984' one piece of 12KV #2/4 pulled six runs each tunnel with two tunnels).

The PID will open as bull8042 stated to a fail safe position without a resistance reading within the PID's range. To get a boil control without a thermocouple mounted into the boil pot that you wish not to have you will need to know the resistance range of the thermocouple that matches the PID your going to use. Take this and mount a pot or potentiometer within that thermocouples range on your control panel and wire it to the thermocouples terminal locations on the PID. This way the PID will think the resistance is from a thermocouple but instead the pot on your panel. With this installation start out full on with the pot until you reach a boil then adjust the pot for the rolling boil to your liking. The pot is your thermocouple as far as the PID knows. You will have to keep an eye on the boil should it decide to boil over.
I'm not sure but I believe this will also work with the PID in the manual mode also or the PID internally will handle the % on time by your settings. You have some great choices on PID's posted so far, this is bad as i'm not ready yet for my next build but taking notes. Hell I have notes and papers all around my computer.The War Departments computer is back to back, she pushes my paper piles back to my side all the time.
 
Isn't with 156*F in the HLT about 4 seconds worth your finger can stand in the HLT? There you eliminated another temp controller, simple. I'm just being a smart ass as my friend used to temp test his HLT and MLT that way with no other thermometer around.
He brewed for years that way and one step up from using crocks.
 
So I was shopping online the other day for a RIPP element and some switches when I found this great online store to buy the stuff from. ($18 RIPP 5500W ULWD elements!) I go to my order form online and it is charging me sales tax... so I think, well I wonder where in Indiana this place is. Cachow! It is like 20 minutes away, downtown Indy. No shipping charges here! Woot! (Enter address into GPS)

I am still looking for a J or K thermocouple that I can quickly disconnect from the BK... otherwise it will be a @#&^$ to clean the kettle.

As stated above, all of my components (HLT stirrer, pump, both heating elements and the JC419 will be PLUGGED IN to my control box via appropriately rated outlets. Hard wiring here would stink, everything would be tethered to the brew stand :D

I hate to say this, but my rig goes through a BIG conversion about once every 12 months. (Winter, cold, nothing to do etc... REDESIGN!) After this is complete, what is next? Touch screen LCD controll panels for 2009?
 
bakins said:
I got mine from McMaster Carr - 3871K77. I rigged up a weldless fitting using 1/4 compression fitting and o-rings.

Here it is from the inside:

IMG_1899.JPG
Click to expand...

Did you get that SS nut for your heating element at McMaster too?
 
The Pol said:
Did you get that SS nut for your heating element at McMaster too?
Click to expand...

Yes - 4464K586


They also have male/female thermocoupler plugs. Buy some wire as well.
connectors: 3869K36 and 3869K37
wire: 6579T43

This will allow you to disconnect the thermocoupler. I wound up not using them as I'm basically clean in place. Only have to dump out a little rinse water, but I dump into a bucket - so, I never really move the kettles.

I used all type T with my auber stuff.

Also, the way my switch is wired is

30A breaker -> 2 hots -> DPST -> 1 hot to SSR then to plug, 1 hot directy to plug. Used 3 prong dryer plugs for the elements.

(Everything, switch and element are grounded. )

So it shuts it off before the SSR, not sure it that matters.
 
Bargain fittings is not the same thread... but McMaster is selling a SS STRAIGHT THREAD (like the element) so I am going to buy that to make my job easier.
 
thevalkrye said:
ya it will and rtd's are more accurate than thermocouples
Click to expand...

My type T is off and seems to "wander." I can calibrate it and it will stay for a brew session or so, but will then be off by a degree or 3. I may need to check into one of these.
 
The Pol said:
It seems like there is no GOOD way to do any of this... I mean, any way you do any of this there is a risk. Switch, no switch... Like I said, I am not going to be messing with the element and connections with the control box humming with 240V anyway. I am also going to pot my element connections in a solid block of epoxy to seal them from the elements, and myself.
Click to expand...


Why not just cover them in silcone?
 
I want something durable... and epoxy is much more so than silicone and just as cheap.
 
I have been paying close attention to this thread. Did you decide to go the thremocouple route or bypass it how BrewBeemer discribed (was a bit confused myself on the discription given)?
 
I think I am going to buy the liquid tight and quick disconnect RTD from Auber... should do the trick.
 
Sounds good. Please...for the sake of all of us still in the planning process....update us when the time comes with your final setup. This thread has answered a lot of questions I had...greatly appreciated.
 
Hey, no problem, I am going to use a parts list and diagrams for this, so I should have a lot of information avail.
 
Silly question - what are the heating elements made of? Obviously a lot of folks are using them for their kettle so they must be OK? Do they make SS heating elements?
 
They make all sorts... I am using a RIPP element that has been used in plenty of builds. Never seen one in person, but I presume it is OK, since ppl are using them in thier BKs all over the place. It is the only 5500W ULWD element I can find, due to its design.
 
Pol; got a question on that RIPP 5,500 watt heating element.
What is the offset off the element from centerline of the threads?
What i'm asking is what is the minimum space or compartment that element can screw into with it having that wavy design in swing from the thread centerline. Another measurement way is how large of internal diameter of tubing is required should I build a chamber after stepping up from a reducer with a 1" thread to screw the element in?
It's been a coupe years plus since I installed one without taking notes on the swing clearance required, stupid on my part not thinking future notes taken or needed. I sold that brewing system hence no element in hand to measure off.
Keep that project rolling and your progress postings.
 
I do not have the RIPP in hand yet... luckily I found a hardware store ONLINE that is actually in downtown Indy... thier prices on many electrical items I need are HALF the cost of Lowes! Shop RonsHomeAndHardware.com For Small Appliances, Hardware, Housewares, Organic Cleaning Products, CFLs, Weber Grills & So Much More

I will keep updates coming as this progresses. I am painting my dining room and office today (HATE builder white) so that SWMBO is satisfied for a while, THEN I can get back to building.

My next project is the keg conversion, I will take pics and document it here. Thanks for all the support and information guys.
 
Stopped into an ACE Hardware today on my way to the Dollar Store... I was looking for the 5500W Ripp element and they wanted $32!!!! TruValue has it for $18... ACE, that is spanish for "gang rape"
 
The Pol said:
They make all sorts... I am using a RIPP element that has been used in plenty of builds. Never seen one in person, but I presume it is OK, since ppl are using them in thier BKs all over the place. It is the only 5500W ULWD element I can find, due to its design.
Click to expand...


Once I get the Keggle, what is involved in installing ?

I assume this should go into a keggle, and not a 40 QT brewpot ,,
 
Um, drill a hole, stick it in, seal on the OUTside... use a SS lock nut on the inside... viola...
 

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