6-20R receptacle in brew panel?

[doug293cz]

Little help wiring up a DVA 120. The instructions from auber ins. has the 2 wires for voltage on either end of a heater:

I am using this guide and it has the wires to the 240 side of the main power contactor:

View attachment 872156
I don't know if I care what the power going to the heater is doing. Just concerned what the power in the system is at. Which way is correct? Tyia

The Auber drawings are WRONG, and Auber admits as much in their Wiring Tips:

"Wiring Tips:​

Here are two typical wiring diagrams for PID and SSR controlled heating system, one for 120V system and one for 240V system. ​

​

1. The DVA-120 gets its power only when it measures a 80 ~ 500 VAC from its voltage measurement port. As the PID starting pulsing the power to the heating element, the voltmeter will lose its power when the heating element is turned off. Move wire A to Pin #1 of the SSR so that the voltmeter stays on all the time." (emphasis added)​

​

With the power/voltage sense leads wired in parallel with the element, the power to the meter gets shut off when the element is not on. The way SSRs modulate power is by turning power fully on for a short period and then fully off for another short period. They don't actually create partial power on an instantaneous basis, but rather partial power averaged over the cycle time of the pulse width modulation circuit.

I have no idea why Auber hasn't corrected the drawings on their web page.

Brew on

 

[Shwagger]

The Auber drawings are WRONG, and Auber admits as much in their Wiring Tips:

"Wiring Tips:​

Here are two typical wiring diagrams for PID and SSR controlled heating system, one for 120V system and one for 240V system. ​

​

1. The DVA-120 gets its power only when it measures a 80 ~ 500 VAC from its voltage measurement port. As the PID starting pulsing the power to the heating element, the voltmeter will lose its power when the heating element is turned off. Move wire A to Pin #1 of the SSR so that the voltmeter stays on all the time." (emphasis added)​

​

With the power/voltage sense leads wired in parallel with the element, the power to the meter gets shut off when the element is not on. The way SSRs modulate power is by turning power fully on for a short period and then fully off for another short period. They don't actually create partial power on an instantaneous basis, but rather partial power averaged over the cycle time of the pulse width modulation circuit.

I have no idea why Auber hasn't corrected the drawings on their web page.

Brew on

Yep that's makes sense. Wiring it the way my book has it would be the same as the red text you have. Good stuff

 

[Shwagger]

Another thing that has me scratching my head about this meter is the leads on the donut are green, the leads from the unit that the donut connect to are red and black. The connector on the unit for the 2 power wires is green. Not confusing at all lol

 

[Shwagger]

Well, there it is in all its glory. I refuse to pay what they ask for plastic labels! Now to test it and figure out how to use the ezboil320

 

[Deadalus]

Looks fine. I don't have all of my plastic labels and refuse to pay for the couple of replacements I need. You may want to label your power selector. Mine is right in the middle too yet I often forget to switch it over to the HLT at startup until I come back from milling.

 

[Shwagger]

I hope to not forget lol. There is a 6500w element in the HLT I got from Bobby. Hoping for rapid heating

 

[Deadalus]

I hope to not forget lol. There is a 6500w element in the HLT I got from Bobby. Hoping for rapid heating

I have 5500w elements, I find them fairly rapid. No proper time trials, I measured the rise over time once but I'd have to check my notebook. 6500w element should be speedy! Do you know that's about 27 amps?

A tip on speed I will offer is to not overfill the HLT. Simple statement but in implementation it will require consideration of how you heat your strike water. Whether in the HLT or the MT, as well as alternate options. After you have your strike water and grains in the MT, my opinion is that it is best to have the water level just covering the coil. As an example, heat the strike water in the HLT. This will be several gallons of strike water removed. I typically will add back in 1+ gallons to immediately drop the HLT down to whatever mash temp I need, as the HLT will be too hot otherwise. This is the point in time I don't want to have excess water over the coil. All that is recipe, batch size, and equipment dependent. Just don't overfill!

With the EZ Boil, you can just set the timer well ahead of time and initial ramp up time can be unimportant. Then ramp time would be most important at mash out and sparge. I estimate that at about 15-20 minutes, depends on the mash temps involved.

 

[Shwagger]

I have 5500w elements, I find them fairly rapid. No proper time trials, I measured the rise over time once but I'd have to check my notebook. 6500w element should be speedy! Do you know that's about 27 amps?

A tip on speed I will offer is to not overfill the HLT. Simple statement but in implementation it will require consideration of how you heat your strike water. Whether in the HLT or the MT, as well as alternate options. After you have your strike water and grains in the MT, my opinion is that it is best to have the water level just covering the coil. As an example, heat the strike water in the HLT. This will be several gallons of strike water removed. I typically will add back in 1+ gallons to immediately drop the HLT down to whatever mash temp I need, as the HLT will be too hot otherwise. This is the point in time I don't want to have excess water over the coil. All that is recipe, batch size, and equipment dependent. Just don't overfill!

With the EZ Boil, you can just set the timer well ahead of time and initial ramp up time can be unimportant. Then ramp time would be most important at mash out and sparge. I estimate that at about 15-20 minutes, depends on the mash temps involved.

Yes it runs a tic over 27 amps. I ordered a 5500w but he sent me a 6500w. Maybe a mixed batch? But with both pumps running and the element, it hasn't been a problem (in testing just water). But is bloody fast

I need more testing and timing before I brew. I am trying different methods for heating. Add water to MT and start recirculating through the HERMS to strike temp is one option. Heat all water in HLT first as you suggested is another. It will take some time though. I will say that induction cooktop is the best knees.