2 x 2 16 gauge - OK for 15+ gallons?

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Gadjobrinus

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Hey all -

First post. Long time brewer but I've been away for many years for a variety of reasons. Used to work for Goose Island. When I did, I had a keggle system, 2-tier. I'd never welded (nor welded since) but was able to finagle a mig unit in exchange for beer brewed on the system, and somehow I put together "Ugly Betty" (guess why she had the name, and who's welding is truly, truly bad?). No pumps, just manually recirc'ed and ran wort over the kettle and then fermenters.

3-valve gas manifold, 20 lb tank, using the King Kooker small banjo, I think it must be the same as Bayou Classic's "classic" 4 inch.

Getting the bug to build out again, but this time bigger, and a pump. Wonder if I could get some advice on a couple things?

20 gallon vessels, though brew length into fermenter will rarely be more than 12 gallons. I just like the flexibility - I was pushing my old system with some of my bigger beers, e.g., "Black Stag," an imperial stout.

First, the frame. I plan on 2 x 2 16 gauge mild steel, coated with whatever that paint or coating is that goes up to what, 2000 F, something like that? I don't plan on welding this time, but I also don't know what something like this costs to hire out, so that may require me to spend some serious practice time and do it, again, myself. I don't mess around with safety however, and if I'm truly bad, it goes to the welder.

The question: Is 16 gauge thick enough?

Second, burners and gas. I know this has been covered closely, but in searching I've not quite seen the situation where a brewer wants to go with from between 14-18 gallons into the kettle, for 12-15-16 gallons of finished bitter wort.

I know many feel the 10" high pressure banjo is overkill at 10 gallons; I also know many who feel if you're going over 5, move to the SP14 or equivalent, possibly, or go all the way to the 10" banjo.

My concerns are more to do with a quick boil and rise to strike temp, but also good performance when I have to dial things down. I never seemed to mind propane efficiency, and never had much of a problem with freezing up on a 3-burner (4" cajun") manifold. But maybe these things become an issue with the 10" banjo, I don't know.

At any rate, for these volumes and 20 gallon vessels, how do people feel about the 10" banjos and 0-30 psi regulator, to the manifold, as shown here? I'm looking for proper needle valves, if possible, or ball valves, as I've seen on Ruby, I think it was, and others.

My manifold is black pipe and brass flares. Stainless steel braided, 0-30 psi regulator; and I likely plan on braided stainless out to to the burners as well.

Thanks for any thoughts, all. I've learned a lot already, just lurking and reading.
 
Greetings, Gadjobrinus, and welcome to this corner of the interwebs :)

Wrt tubing size/wall thickness, 16 gauge 2x2 should work fine - in the hands of an experienced welder, at least.
It'll be stiffer than the 14 gauge 1.5" square tubing I welded up to hold my three 20g kettles [edit - which is plenty stiff]
(worked out very well - my welding skills are decent but my grinding skills are legion ;))

As for burners, I have a pair of 10" BG14-style burners (re-purposed Blichmann Floor Burners) for the HLT and BK and wouldn't consider anything less.
They are quiet and provide very even heat across the entire 18" diameter kettle bottoms.

My manifold is 1" black iron; I use a high pressure regulator at the cylinder to drop down to around 20 psi, feed the rail through a hose to a disconnect, and use the original Blichmann 0-10 psi regs to control burner outputs.
I have seen folks using ball valves and/or needles but I already had the regs.

As for the "2000°" eg: VHT paint, I went that route, and to be honest, had I known what I know now about the stuff, I'd have built the rig out of stainless tubing.
While it does a wonderful job of standing up to heat it's a pita to use.
VHT requires a serious curing process. To wit:
Heat to 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes
Cool for 30 minutes
Heat to 650°F (343°C ) for 30 minutes

Otherwise the pricey stuff just sits there transferring to anything that brushes up against it.
For years (and maybe forever) according to an uncured test sample I still have.
I ended up at the local powder coat shop and paid for them to bake it to schedule, pretty much negating any savings from just using stainless tubing in the first place.

And forget using actual powder coat, that stuff cooks off above 500°F (tested it)...

Cheers!
 
Many thanks for the welcome and very helpful info, day_trippr. Check on my welding it up, given your experience and my complete lack of it...lol. I think I was just lucky on my former rig. Also gives me pause on using mild at all, and had no idea about the curing thing. Pretty much a deal breaker!

Thanks for the note on the BG14 type. Sounds great.

I've got some concern I've undershot by going with just 1/2" on the black pipe, and the planned 1/2 NPT-3/8 flare valves (and lines). I don't recall how I built the manifold on my former rig (yes, it's been that long, and I'm no longer that smart); just recall it was a high pressure reg and the 4" King Kooker, with 3/8" flare valves eventually feeding to the individual burners. Is 1" a design/safety requirement, when running a high pressure manifold like this?
 
Mine is very similar to day_trippr's rig, even the repurposed Blichmann burners. The exception being that I went with 2" 16g stainless.
I work for a pretty big welding company and have put bids out to manufacture brew sculptures like mine. Our bids were around $850 plus material.
My repurposed Blichmann burners easily boil 23g of wort using the Blichmann regulator.
 
Thanks on the cost estimate, Brick_Haus and the additional note on using stainless. So, do you run individual regulators out to your burners, or use the Blichmann on a manifold? I seem to recall somewhere on here, someone talking about difficulties when using a single 20 lbs on high output burners like the large banjos.
 
OK, great, thanks brick_haus.

BTW, it occurs to me. I've looked at the Ruby Street systems, which gave me some ideas. I don't believe they "heat proof" the entire stand, but they do treat the grills themselves. What do you guys think about using mild for the frame, and only heat-coat the grill metal? I haven't looked it up but I know the materials cost is going to be radically different in ss, v. the 16 gauge mild, if this is the entire frame.
 
My advice on the frame is to use stainless. It will look good as assembled and won't require the time or cost to paint or coat it.

I plan to own a GTAW in the near future so I can build my own stuff and also help fellow brewers.
 
I built my rig out of 2x2 16g with 3 bg14 burners. I regularly brew 20+ gallon batches on it with 2 kettles completely full at a time plus mash tun full of grain. It does just fine, very sturdy. I even used some cheap harbor freight casters that have held up great. I welded the entire frame together. I painted it with the high temp matte black bbq grill paint. Dries super fast and is easily rated for the heat. It has looked great for years and is super easy/cheap to touch up. I have under $200 into the whole stand not including my time and tools. The black paint does show dirt and dust pretty bad but isn't too hard to clean with a little wipe down with a wet cloth.
 
Thanks, Drumminguy81. I need to source better - going onlne, I was in for $50-600 for even just mild, and for comparison's sake, a single 72" piece of 2x2 16 gauge in ss is $100 (v. $20-something). I need to scrounge locally. Just starting.

Your grill paint, hadn't thought of that but then guys, I've zero engineering talent (I was a chef). I can get in and do something, but I'm usually winging it. So - this paint, v. the cured powder coating we're talking, correct?
 
Rustoleum also makes high heat spray paint made for engines, exhaust manifolds, etc. I used it on my tractor exhaust and muffler and it's been holding up very well.
 
I used to build brew stands and such on the side. 2x2 16 ga stainless is very strong for what your are doing. My current brewstand is mild steel and its a pita. I built it as a prototype with the intention of refining it and building a final version out of stainless... That hasn't happened yet.

Depending on how bad you are at welding you could mig weld the stainless. You will lose all of the stainless qualities at the weld zone if you use mild steel filler wire but you'll still benefit for the rest of the stand. Not ideal but a good "hybrid" option if you can't find a good local tig welder to put your stand together for you.
 
I just aquired a TIG, probably wont build since I already have an eBIAB set up, but will be nice to add something to it if need be.
 
I used to build brew stands and such on the side. 2x2 16 ga stainless is very strong for what your are doing. My current brewstand is mild steel and its a pita. I built it as a prototype with the intention of refining it and building a final version out of stainless... That hasn't happened yet.

Depending on how bad you are at welding you could mig weld the stainless. You will lose all of the stainless qualities at the weld zone if you use mild steel filler wire but you'll still benefit for the rest of the stand. Not ideal but a good "hybrid" option if you can't find a good local tig welder to put your stand together for you.

Thanks Sandy. Do you (does everyone, maybe) hate mild because it just rusts over time, and weakens?

Regardles, thank you, another vote for stainless. This is killing me because the entire "thing" is going to be a difficult sell to SWMBO, and when I'm seeing stainless coming in somewhere like 5X the cost of mild - plus paying a good tig welder, v. an experienced, but cheaper mild steel welder...well, at that point, maybe I should just be looking at a manufactured frame, e.g., Ruby Street, Spike (can't remember if they do frames - I intend on buying 3 x 20 g vessels from them), etc.?

I wish I could find photos of my old brewing setup. I was pretty bad - first time, and though I did what I could to learn setup based on my steel and dimensions, etc....well, let's just say the beads were not a work of art, lol. So I don't know. I highly suspect I'm going to need a welder here, and again, a tig welder will be expensive. But I know weighing against that is the quality and durability of the stainless v. mild steel frame.

Lost. Can I have a pint o' bitter, please?:mug:

Just on the crazy notion I'd like to acquire and practice like a madman, in order to be useful in food-grade applications some day (experienced alpine cheesemaker, one of my lives, and another field where it would have been nice to know TIG), do people have any particular TIG rigs they like?
 
Great, many thanks, Brick. That helps a lot. I traded (eventual) beer for the use of a MIG with my first setup. Hmm.....

Oh, probably not. I'm not as charming as I once was.:D
 
Thanks Sandy. Do you (does everyone, maybe) hate mild because it just rusts over time, and weakens?[...]

Not that dramatic - you'd have to be a major self-hater to actually allow a brew rig to rust to death.
It's the basic need to coat it with something to keep the rust from forming - and then - if that coating doesn't stand up to the heat - having to maintain it over time.
That last bit is why I went with the 2K°F VHT coating, and it has yet to show any issues (though a big part of that is in the rig design).
But, again, between the paint and the baking cost I could have bought a cylinder of 90%He/7.5%Ar/2.5%CO2 and a spool of 304 wire and welded a full SS rig...

Cheers!
 
Came across . IMO, beautiful work and also pretty awesome, as it's almost to a "T" what I was hoping to get, if staying with a 2 tier and a Chugger pump. "Stockpot" vessels instead of kegs and want to tri-clover all hoses, as well as include a tee (on the outlet, right?) for burping as well as runoff and bitter wort sampling, but other than that, the structure looks exactly what I was wanting to end up with. I also like his using a slot, making for an adjustable depth on the burner (I am still working on deciding between a 10" high pressure banjo, and the 4" hi pressure (whether cast iron or aluminum).

Interesting - that's stainless, yes? And he's going to paint with a Rust-Oleum "2000 F", engine block paint, just like you're suggesting, Auger.

Oh, and on page 18 of 413 of the "show us your sculpture" thread.:mug:

Edit: Sorry for the length guys - just shows I know very little in this end of it all. day_trippr, you mention "VHT" paint. Not sure if this is the same as the engine block paint talked of above, but I see on the Rust-Oleum page, they mention intermittent heat up to 2000F. I don't see anything on curing outside of drying to touch, but this has made for another question.
 
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This is the stuff I used http://www.vhtpaint.com/high-heat/vht-flameproof-coating
I used their primer followed by numerous color coats.

The Rust-Oleum has a grill paint and an "ultra high heat" paint that are both ~1200°F rated.
I can't find anything wrt curing procedures for either.

Rust-Oleum also sells a "High Heat" 2K°F rated spray paint.
This one has a curing process:

Off of Vehicle:
Bake at 250°F (121°C) for 30 minutes then allow 30 minutes to cool.
Bake at 400°F (204°C) for 30 minutes then allow 30 minutes to cool.
Bake at 600˚F (315˚C) for 30 minutes then allow 30 minutes to cool.
Caution: Be sure not to exceed the heat tolerance of the least heat tolerant part.


Sounds familiar ;)

Cheers!
 
@brick_haus Stainless smaw on 16 gauge would be a party. Not what I want to do... But a possible solution.

@day_trippr using the proper mig mix gas and stainless mig filler is a viable option. And it can be used on any mig welder. Good call!

Either way, if you are welding stainless make sure you understand the long term health effects of hexavalent chromium and how to mitigate the hazards. A good p100 respirator should be rated for hexavalent chromium but make sure it has that specification. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexavalent_chromium
 
Sandy, that's excellent advise wrt qualified respirator when cooking chrome.
I'm pretty much set with this iteration, just have to get off my @ss with the automation :)

Gadjobrinus, trust me, no living person has wasted more time researching consumer-available coatings for a mere brew stand.
I was even looking at ceramics but the people that actually take money for that wouldn't stand behind their product in the intended application.
Woof.

Anyway, for the record, this should illustrate the words I've been spewing, in all its coated glory.

brew_rigs_02.jpg

Along with the twin "secondary" gas regs you can see the nestled Blichmann burner stands which provide enough thermal shielding to the stand proper that the coating can survive...

Cheers! (yeah, I gotta fabricate better heat shields for the valves/hoses)
 
Sandy, that's excellent advise wrt qualified respirator when cooking chrome.
I'm pretty much set with this iteration, just have to get off my @ss with the automation :)

Gadjobrinus, trust me, no living person has wasted more time researching consumer-available coatings for a mere brew stand.
I was even looking at ceramics but the people that actually take money for that wouldn't stand behind their product in the intended application.
Woof.

Anyway, for the record, this should illustrate the words I've been spewing, in all its coated glory.

View attachment 412289

Along with the twin "secondary" gas regs you can see the nestled Blichmann burner stands which provide enough thermal shielding to the stand proper that the coating can survive...

Cheers! (yeah, I gotta fabricate better heat shields for the valves/hoses)

Holy cow, is that a beautiful rig, trippr. Thanks for showing it. Sorry for the noob questions: Is that your chiller to the left? Is it a therminator, or another brand? And your pumps - I presume the outflow is facing upwards? Helps cleanly prime/avoid cavitation?

Thanks for all your help. Your photo gives more ideas even yet. Would never have occurred to me to put inline regulators like that, but man does that, along with everything else, look clean.

And it seems, after all is said and done, the ease of stainless (once it's fabricated) might be the opinion of many here. It's been really helpful, guys.
 
@brick_haus Stainless smaw on 16 gauge would be a party. Not what I want to do... But a possible solution.

@day_trippr using the proper mig mix gas and stainless mig filler is a viable option. And it can be used on any mig welder. Good call!

Either way, if you are welding stainless make sure you understand the long term health effects of hexavalent chromium and how to mitigate the hazards. A good p100 respirator should be rated for hexavalent chromium but make sure it has that specification. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hexavalent_chromium

Thanks for the caution, Sandy. Though I'm so inexperienced a welder (have never stick welded, for instance - only MIG'ed the one time, when I built my former rig) I can't know the whys of your post, and will unfortunately have to hand this off to a welder to do, it's great to know.

A very side question. I really regret not learning to weld. Do you welders feel pretty strongly that SMAW mastery should precede attempts in to MIG, and especially TIG welding? Our local community college unfortunately will not allow people to take the welding classes, unless they're in the career-track welding program. So not sure where to turn to get some training.
 
well probably not the same direction you want to go but I built mine out of wood. 2x6 upper with scrap steel bars going across. but I do have a welder for welding the threaded rods to the steel bars. this was done on the cheap and with stuff lying around. currently I am using 90 degree elbows on the secondary gas lines so they don't stick out. of course this is not a 20 gal setup.

Brewflame2.jpg


1448938420027.jpg
 
Thanks OleBrewing. From another thread a member kindly pointed me to the "Show us your sculpture thread" and I'm on page 20, I think it is, out of 413 pages (!). Among the makes there were some truly beautiful wood setups and they did get me intrigued. Thanks for showing yours. Can I ask your brewlength?

Edit: Sorry, missed the obvious from your second pic. Thanks again.
 
Thanks OleBrewing. From another thread a member kindly pointed me to the "Show us your sculpture thread" and I'm on page 20, I think it is, out of 413 pages (!). Among the makes there were some truly beautiful wood setups and they did get me intrigued. Thanks for showing yours. Can I ask your brewlength?

Edit: Sorry, missed the obvious from your second pic. Thanks again.

yeah I designed mine vertical storage due to space constraints, add glad I did. mine is not the prettiest and I do have one pump. if I had to change one thing it would be using 2 pumps. one for hot water tank and one for mash tun other than that it is a great functional set up. works great for canning also.
 
It is easier to crank through threads when you make the forum display 30 posts per page. :D

I started with MIG and then learned stick and then oxy/acetylene and then tig.

I can tell you that keeping the rust off a mild steel stand is a pain in the butt. I would make mine out of stainless if I were to make it again. People seem to be happy with stainless.

Here is one that I built a while back. My current rig is in the background. This all stainless build was 2x2x.065 304ss and it could take 200# of weight in the center of the stand with no deflection. This was an all electric build btw.

20150628_093238 copy.jpg
 
Great, thanks Sandy. 30 posts. Amazing, I've been, er, uh, crawling at something let's just say south of 30, lol.

Another beautiful make. Your guys' work blows me away. I love brewing and can't wait to get back in, but first this hurdle has to be cleared. Thanks for the ideas, guys.
 
[...]Is that your chiller to the left? Is it a therminator, or another brand? And your pumps - I presume the outflow is facing upwards? Helps cleanly prime/avoid cavitation?[...]

The plate chiller is a DudaDiesel 30 plate long model, and the pumps are indeed oriented so their outputs are at 12 o'clock.
That latter bit is mostly to make priming easier and lessen the incidence of cavitation when the wort is boiling.

In case anyone is wondering, the chiller pivots out when needed while the pumps are mounted on sliding trays.
Everything can be retracted within the perimeter of the stand so I can lay it on its side and fit it inside my Durango...

Cheers!
 
Again ingenious, trippr, thanks for the post. I've never actually seen a Therminator in life so I didn't have anything to compare it to. Very cool, your portability tweaks!
 
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I think it belongs here, thread's been asleep awhile, wonder if you guys can help me out.

The welder I intended using, a friend's recommendation, has turned out to be a flake. C'est la vie.

Barriers, as I've mentioned here or elsewhere. Our area's technical college does not allow taking individual classes - you have to be on a career track. Understandable, just wish I could remember what outlying T.C. did allow it.

So - under no illusions. I built my last brewery out of 1x1, I think it was, had high pressure Cajun's, and lived to tell about it. No gas, flux core mig. UGLY.

Under no illusions No. 2, that I suck mechanically and cannot imagine in a million years pulling off self-taught TIG.

Though I'd like stainless steel, this welder was pretty down on it, calling it unnecessary, and unnecessarily expensive. He said, "if you do nothing (the raw, uncoated mild 2 x 2 16 ga. steel), that thing will outlast you 20 years."

I know this guy is respected as a brewing welder. The brewing welder I knew and wanted - guy I knew from 20 years ago, when I was brewing - rents "my" guy's shop, for projects. So it's not expertise or ability, just never hear from him, like, literally, ever.

Anyway, long way around: Any thoughts, on welding this thing myself? Is it ill-advised for me to try to weld up stainless using MIG, and stainless wire, given my total lack of experience or ability? Flux core on the dreaded mild again?

I have nothing but respect for experienced and/or professional welders. An amazing art and technical form. Just trying to get brewing.

Thanks.
 
Too bad you're not in AZ. I'd whip one up for ya out of stainless. I'd go solid core on the mig wire with ss wire and the proper tri-mix gas. That will be the best solution for you.

The mild steel WILL rust if left unprotected and will transfer that rust to your shiny stainless things. Your welder is right that stainless is expensive but buy once, cry once. Why did he talk you out of it? HE didn't want to build it?
 
Yeah, I don't know what his deal is, but this just isn't how I work. Thanks a ton on the ss rec. I do have a bunch of books (ridiculous, I know - almost embarrassed to say "books" for something that requires skill and experience from among folks like yourself), so with what you say, hopefully I'll be able to pull the proper setup together.

I'll have to hunt for the ss. Online is obviously really expensive and I got pretty disparate pricing from two sellers here, over $100 apart. But I have time - practice, I think! And I'm gathering everything else.

Thanks again, Sandy. Must have put the idea of putting ss and mild together right out of mind, because thanks for that - yeah, I'd LOVE to screw up my beautiful Spikes over something so stupid...!
 
Metal is a commodity and pricing is always changing. So keep that in mind. Depending on what size you build you'll need a couple 20' lengths. Usually the first one is $x, the second is $x/2 and so on. Pricing is ALL negotiable with steel suppliers so ask them what their discount schedule is. If I buy 3 lengths what will my cost per length/foot be?

For learning I would start here: https://www.youtube.com/user/weldingtipsandtricks

Also, buy a little extra material and do several practice joints. Will help with cutting and fitup and weld settings. Totally worth it.
 

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