Mikmonken
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Yes it is, I used a little slide switch which seems to work fine, it's in the AliExpress wish list I shared and is pretty cheap
iSpindle - DIY Electronic Hydrometer
- Thread starter LBussy
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Help Support Homebrew Talk:
Yes it is, I used a little slide switch which seems to work fine, it's in the AliExpress wish list I shared and is pretty cheap
Thanks! Hopefully I can get the rest of the components ordered today. I'm going to try to make an Adafruit Huzzah variant of it.
Dear All,
I know a few of us have had some trouble with the iSpindel going into deep sleep and not waking at the prescribed time (say every 15min).
I built several boards with 470 ohms resistors that failed to wake, and only when I used a BAT43 Schottky diode did it work. However, my question is has anyone had any success using a lower resistor of say 390, 350 or 330 ohms?
The reason for this, is I believe that a Schottky diode will still cut out when the battery voltage to say 3.6 volts in comparison to a resistor of the correct value may go down to 2.8 volts.
Therefore, any input would be appreciated?
Thanks.
I know a few of us have had some trouble with the iSpindel going into deep sleep and not waking at the prescribed time (say every 15min).
I built several boards with 470 ohms resistors that failed to wake, and only when I used a BAT43 Schottky diode did it work. However, my question is has anyone had any success using a lower resistor of say 390, 350 or 330 ohms?
The reason for this, is I believe that a Schottky diode will still cut out when the battery voltage to say 3.6 volts in comparison to a resistor of the correct value may go down to 2.8 volts.
Therefore, any input would be appreciated?
Thanks.
Mikmonken
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If you go back to page 4 of this thread I link the pelting I got from ebay.
Word of warning though it doesn't seem to fit the sleds that you can download from the iSpindel GitHub but the one I bought from 3d-mechatronics.de did fit perfectly.
Thanks, got everything on order! I have a 3d printer so will have to modify the sled models to fit a bit better. Thanks for the help.
bawest47232
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I've been reading through this, but I wanted to skip to the end and reap the rewards without reading all 35 pages or so. It looks like it works, so I want one. My question is, since I'm a novice at soldering boards and processor programming, can I do this? What would it cost to have one made for me (that wouldn't be fun, but just checking my options).
If I go to the github and download the .zip file, will it have a program that I would be able to install on the processor?
Sorry, I know it's wrong of me to come in without reading everything, but I've grown so accustom to instant gratification with the internet, I don't want to wait.
If I go to the github and download the .zip file, will it have a program that I would be able to install on the processor?
Sorry, I know it's wrong of me to come in without reading everything, but I've grown so accustom to instant gratification with the internet, I don't want to wait.
bawest47232
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I've been reading through this, but I wanted to skip to the end and reap the rewards without reading all 35 pages or so. It looks like it works, so I want one. My question is, since I'm a novice at soldering boards and processor programming, can I do this? What would it cost to have one made for me (that wouldn't be fun, but just checking my options).
If I go to the github and download the .zip file, will it have a program that I would be able to install on the processor?
Sorry, I know it's wrong of me to come in without reading everything, but I've grown so accustom to instant gratification with the internet, I don't want to wait.
I guess my question is "other than the board that can be ordered for $7, is the list on the github page still the best components to get? Is there an updated component listing?
18650 LiIo cell (e.g., Panasonic NCR18650B)
///Components
Wemos D1 mini
GY-521 Gyro & Acceleration Sensor (MPU-6050 on suitable breakout board)
DS18B20 Temperature Sensor
Square grid 3x4cm or printed circuit board
Resistors - 4k7 ohms - 220k ohms - 470 ohms
microswitches Or at the PCB Reed Wechsler
Lipo charger TP4056 (6 pin recommended)
http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL
If I go to the github and download the .zip file, will it have a program that I would be able to install on the processor?
Sorry, I know it's wrong of me to come in without reading everything, but I've grown so accustom to instant gratification with the internet, I don't want to wait.
I guess my question is "other than the board that can be ordered for $7, is the list on the github page still the best components to get? Is there an updated component listing?
18650 LiIo cell (e.g., Panasonic NCR18650B)
///Components
Wemos D1 mini
GY-521 Gyro & Acceleration Sensor (MPU-6050 on suitable breakout board)
DS18B20 Temperature Sensor
Square grid 3x4cm or printed circuit board
Resistors - 4k7 ohms - 220k ohms - 470 ohms
microswitches Or at the PCB Reed Wechsler
Lipo charger TP4056 (6 pin recommended)
http://cachers-world.de/de/Petling-XL
Mikmonken
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I've been reading through this, but I wanted to skip to the end and reap the rewards without reading all 35 pages or so. It looks like it works, so I want one. My question is, since I'm a novice at soldering boards and processor programming, can I do this? What would it cost to have one made for me (that wouldn't be fun, but just checking my options).
If I go to the github and download the .zip file, will it have a program that I would be able to install on the processor?
Sorry, I know it's wrong of me to come in without reading everything, but I've grown so accustom to instant gratification with the internet, I don't want to wait.
Yes you can do it, my soldering level is amateur at best and I managed to solder the bits together to get it to work. Hardest bit for me was cutting the breadboard to size.
The board I put together makes it's a fair bit easier.
You can get everything you need from the German site I listed earlier and that's about 50 you still need to solder and assemble though.
How much have the sleds tended to cost to print? The online 3D printing vendors I've found seem to range in the $14-$17 range. I've never 3D printed anything, so I don't know if that is par for the course or not.
Bigdaddyale
Well-Known Member
Check your local library. I think I paid less than $5.00 for mine.
http://www.austinlibrary.org/site/PageServer?pagename=Spring_2014_News_NewCentral
kbaggen
Well-Known Member
To both you, that PCB looks super!
Would be perfect in a bit larger and longer version where gryo then is placed just as mine in the cap-head of a yeast tube! Gonna look at Kicad and see if I can make one version just a bit larger and hold 4 copper lines for placing the gyro downwards!
Any chance to get the orginal files?
Thank you, @mikmonken did all the heavy lifting. Let me know if I can help you.
Use a 330 ohm resistor instead of 470 ohm.
Hey guys, I've just upgraded my iSpindle based on the WEMOS D1 mini PRO with an external antenna. I had to re-solder the tiniest connector on the board which was very challenging to say the least but with pretty good results! The WIFI signal has improved about 50% to 60% which helps if your fermenting fridge is in the garage and 15 meters away from you WIFI router
link to similar antenna as the one i am using: https://www.ebay.com.au/p/?iid=272609208646&chn=ps&var=571728694067
On the D1 Mini Pro, where is the diode to remove?
Cheers.
Unfortunately our local branch is still "planning on getting one" sometime in 2017, and the main branch is supposed to have one when it reopens (it is already after the original reopening date). I haven't checked the other neighborhood branches though.
I did just come across this site though: https://www.3dhubs.com. It seems to connect you with local businesses or people with 3D printers. The lower end for the sled seems to be around $5-7.
rocketpants
Member
I used 3D hubs to print a couple of sleds and it was AUD$14 for two of them. The guy did a great job but I still had to take to them with a file to get them in the tube. This was for a custom designed sled which, with the benefit of hindsight, has been customised further. I'm currently using a variant of this one https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2225597
Another question, how to calibrate ispindel in order to show the SG and not the Plato ?
which type is the correct in column Abweichung °
= IF( [@[gemessener °Plato]] <> ""; [@[gemessener °Plato]] - ( 0,008699786 * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] - 0,457563239 * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] + 5,15023517 );"")
Which is the correct type for Plato Formel row?
0.008699786*tilt^2 - 0.457563239*tilt + 5.15023517
which type is the correct in column Abweichung °
= IF( [@[gemessener °Plato]] <> ""; [@[gemessener °Plato]] - ( 0,008699786 * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] - 0,457563239 * [@[gemessener Winkel (°)]] + 5,15023517 );"")
Which is the correct type for Plato Formel row?
0.008699786*tilt^2 - 0.457563239*tilt + 5.15023517
Good to hear that you had a positive experience with 3D Hubs. I'll be printing a custom sled as well because I'm using the Adafruit Feather Huzzah, and had to do some fancy positioning with the boards to get everything to fit. The components should be here next week, but unfortunately the pelting is a few more weeks out.
On the D1 Mini Pro, where is the diode to remove?
Cheers.
Should be this one. I believe it has the letters SL written on it
rocketpants
Member
Well, 3D hubs is all down to the individual with the printer. I had a few to choose from but ended up with the one closest to work so I could pick up easily. Turned out fine.
I'd be interested to see your sled. My mods were due to a different charging module.
Here it is: https://tinkercad.com/things/gQz4HZnh6by
It is still rough, once the components all come in I'll get more precise measurements. It is based on no math whatsoever, I just hope it tilts close to the right angle. The Huzzah will slide into the inner slot, and the MPU-6050 and perfboard into the outer one. The battery holder has feet that will clip into the holes, and hopefully the little "wings" with keep it stable against the pelting wall.
Parts List
- Adafruit Feather HUZZAH
- DFRobot MPU-6050
- Generic Perfboard for resistors and such
- DS18S20 Temp Sensor
- NC Reed Switch
- Magnet for reed switch
- Battery clip for 18650
- Battery
Thank you.
I'm considering using 3D Hubs as well, but I'm not sure what material to select for the printed part.
Here are the choices:
- FDM
- SLA
- SLS
Anyone able to offer some advice?
Thanks!
I won't say it's "incorrect", but it is suggested to make it around 15~25 tilt in water.
I bet you need to put some weight, usually around 15g to 25g, at the bottom.
With i have 10 grams shows 14,47 on plato 0 i think that is good!!
Woo hoo. I have a live ispindle. Thanks guys for your posts. Very helpful. I had some issues with the spindle accepting changes in the config screen so I changed the 470 ohm resistor to the shottky and it now accepts the changes. You wouldn't believe it but my internet connection is now down so I can't get back to ubibots. So close!
