Yes.Okay so swap the pins on the relay as circled '(or the Wemos end) and then set the probes to inverted in Fermentrack?
Yes.Okay so swap the pins on the relay as circled '(or the Wemos end) and then set the probes to inverted in Fermentrack?
You've got high voltage on the board now - why not just put the power supply on there?@LBussy This was my idea for the AIO board. Pretty much got it built just going over some design ideas and I'll probably change it from 12v to 5v or leave it and remove the buck 3a.
Not the temp. probes but the relays you want to set to invertedOkay so swap the pins on the relay as circled '(or the Wemos end) and then set the probes to inverted in Fermentrack? Just making sure Ive got this correct?
View attachment 636925
Oh okay yep I meant the relays. Thanks heaps to everyone for your help.Not the temp. probes but the relays you want to set to inverted
No not yet. Im thinking sometime this week.Did you get your board yet? Should be anytime now.
Thank you! By doing two things backwards you found a new and interesting way to generate confusion.Thanks gents for all your help. Switched the pins over on the board and changed the relays to inverted and all is working fine now. In idle mode the relays are both off now instead of on.
That looks good to me without seeing the schematic of course. It's hard to find a glamourous way to route the traces for that logic shifter, isn't it?How does this look? Moved some things around and added your idea for the Logic level converter.
That looks good to me without seeing the schematic of course. It's hard to find a glamourous way to route the traces for that logic shifter, isn't it?
So just musing here, not trying to be critical, I am thinking about the actual application in situ:
Like I said, not intending to be critical. Well, I guess technically this is the definition of "critical" but I'm just trying to help you improve it.
- Your high voltage is right next to the low voltage. It's not hard to imagine that going wrong. In the US that would not meet code in most jurisdictions. We're not necessarily constrained by that, but if it ever caused a fire it would be easy for insurance to deny a claim.
- Imagining a case around this, all of the low voltage should be on one side and high voltage on the other. It's a crapshoot whether you put the power supply on the "back" side to facilitate a power supply internal to the case, or on the same side as the other low voltage. The USB connection should be on the low voltage side for sure in the case of someone using a serial connection or USB power.
- An airgap around the high voltage area would be a very cheap bit of insurance. Who knows about the dielectric strength of the solder mask coming from a random manufacturing shop in China.
- Having the RJ45 for a breakout is VERY handy, you've probably got more than enough room for that too.
I cannot connect to the board in anyway to flash the board at all again, have tried a usb connector to a computer, tried to connect to its wifi but the captive portal does not appear. I have tried the reset button on it as well but that also does not seem to reset the WiFi AP.
Thanks,
Jeff
Need help with a second esp8266 controller. I have a working controller and tested the build with that working esp8266 and everything worked perfectly.
Upfront I must admit I started this second one about 6 months ago and am not sure where I left off with it.
When it boots it runs through the test software that checks the sensors and turns on cooling/heating relays and such and completes with Done with tests. It says the device address is 27 during the test as well. So I obviously flashed this at some point in the past to even be able to run the tests such as that.
I cannot connect to the board in anyway to flash the board at all again, have tried a usb connector to a computer, tried to connect to its wifi but the captive portal does not appear. I have tried the reset button on it as well but that also does not seem to reset the WiFi AP.
I am sure I am missing something obvious here, any help is greatly appreciated. Until then I will keep looking through this and other posts on the subject.
Thanks,
Jeff
I have worked with the other authors/developers/maintainers and have developed a comparison document between the various BrewPi variants. Here it is - errors are mine.
You'd think @Thorrak would have mentioned that.Seems iSpindel is missing on the feature list for Fermentrack on that site.
Hi Corbin.
I’m not a Fermentrack user, however I’d suspect Thorrak carried over the ability to start and stop a brew. That would give you the raw ability to save off a beer when done.
At the least, it sounds like the two GPIO pins driving the relay optocouplers are sitting in a low state, hence the relays being active.
Have you tried reloading the firmware? Or at least hooked it up to something (IDE) to verify there's some form of "life" inside the ESP?
Cheers!
No definitely says idling...Does it say "Idle" or does it say "Wait to Cool"? I run into the latter any time I have to reboot any Arduino at the end of my classic BrewPi setup - there's a ten minute short-cycle timer that has to expire before it will turn on a cooler...
Cheers!
No definitely says idling...
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