I have the 20 gal system from them but I dont have that fitting?? did you have to order that separately ? I just have a hose for mine...
Unboxing Colorado Brewing Systems new Single Vessel System
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30Bones
Well-Known Member
It's a new addition, version 2.0 if you will. They added the TC flange to the basket instead of the kettle.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
I emailed them yesterday to ask if those changes are all coming standard on the basic setup. Will post when I get a response.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
I haven't ordered anything from them yet. Likely won't be for some time until I decide how I want to brew
jayjaytuner
Well-Known Member
been interested in there products but can't get ahold of them past few days emails & calls go unawnsered.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
It's been a over two weeks and no response. If anyone else has a answer about the current/new re-circulation and basket setup it currently comes with, I'm interested to know.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Try calling him? If I was in the market, we could order 2 and maybe split shipping
wildseedgrrrl
Active Member
Glad to see on here a thread of people who have these systems. I spent the last year looking at different builds and trying to decide if I wanted to build one from scratch or buy something "off the rack". I was directed to their website from a homebrew club member who was helping do some research. Nine months later I finally decided and ordered the 10G version.
The next few weeks are gonna be hard to get through. I think I'm going to be a little insane with putting that together once it gets here. I do have a question for folks who have electric systems about the 30A gfci on the panel. I have 240v in my garage but I'm not sure if my panel has the gfci. would something like this work instead of changing out my breaker?
The next few weeks are gonna be hard to get through. I think I'm going to be a little insane with putting that together once it gets here. I do have a question for folks who have electric systems about the 30A gfci on the panel. I have 240v in my garage but I'm not sure if my panel has the gfci. would something like this work instead of changing out my breaker?
iijakii
Well-Known Member
Yes, as long as it's properly rated. Inlines are generally the most expensive route, however.
Wildsee-- smart choice to buy pre-made electric system. On the topic of GFCI protection, the inline cord will cost between $150-300 with the benefit of being portable. Another option is to build GFCI protection into the control panel, but that's probably not doable buying pre-built.
Check out gfcistore.com or google '30 GFCI inline'
Check out gfcistore.com or google '30 GFCI inline'
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
I found that 30A 240V inline GFCI for 150~ on amazon. not bad for a portable cord, only a few bucks more than installing a permanent one when you count the time required, plus it's portable.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
No response, BUT, the web site now has a "build your own" page, with the question answered!
http://www.cobrewingsystems.com/col...uild-your-own-nano-brewer-home-brewing-system
Also, it appears that they have removed the previous low-end system setup. I don't see it anymore on the site, nor the small PID controller setup, nor just standalone/custom kettles.
I'd infer they have lots of work and are streamlining their offerings for efficiency.
jlongstreet
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Wow, I'm glad I got in when I did. The 20 gallon system with just kettle, basket, and hardware is $710 now. That's basically what I ordered as a custom kettle and it was $540.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
I'm pretty sure that $710 now includes the large steel frame for the hoist, panel/pump mounting, setting kettle on, etc -- if I interpret it correctly.
Edit: not sure if the page was changed, but I now see that the base/frame/hoist is a separate option with additional cost.
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I have one on order and have found Tim to be responsive if you call him. I talked to him about ten days ago on mine he thought it would ship this week. I ordered a nano Brewer 20 gal system
He said the backup has been on the panel build.
I had a separate panel installed but was lucky to have an old window AC plug on the opposite wall from where I put it. All in with a electrician who works for the city but does side jobs it's gonna cost me $250 and a new drinking buddy.
The anticipation is killing me!
He said the backup has been on the panel build.
I had a separate panel installed but was lucky to have an old window AC plug on the opposite wall from where I put it. All in with a electrician who works for the city but does side jobs it's gonna cost me $250 and a new drinking buddy.
The anticipation is killing me!
DarkStormBrewing
Well-Known Member
I priced it out and the $710 is for the 20 Gal kettle with all valves, temp probe ,clamps, gaskets, the new Hardsided basket with lift bar welded on, and the new recirc fitting assembly/recirc arm. It's a great deal and while more then the original build, seems to offer more and new and improved set up. I'm days away from ordering mine.
Edidted to remove the Sight Glass. in video they show it but not listed on the build your own. Also shipping was $58 priority mail to FL.
Placed my order Friday!
Edidted to remove the Sight Glass. in video they show it but not listed on the build your own. Also shipping was $58 priority mail to FL.
Placed my order Friday!
brianccarr
Well-Known Member
Those of you that have ordered and are using this system: it's hard to find a lot of information out there on this system. The more I think about what I really want, this system seems to fit the bill.. I want a system that allows me to still be a part of the brew day but offers fewer cleanable parts but still make great beer. I have researched to death all the BIAB options including build your own. I almost pulled the trigger on the Blichmann Breweasy but held off when I stumbled across this thread. I really like what I see and I believe the Pro Level Nano-Brewer is what I would want. How has your experiences been brewing so far and is the step up to the Pro worth price difference over the Nano Home Brewer model? The Breweasy is still on my list but I like the fact that there is only one vessel to clean. There is a ton of info on the Breweasy in regards to efficiency and grain crush, ect. I would love to here any experiences and advice you might have. I look at this purchase as my lifetime brew setup. Thanks
OP
OP
I've been using my 20 gal system since last year and have about 10 batches through it. I mill my grain about twice as fine as for a regular all grain batch. I have one of the early versions so there have been several upgrades since I got mine. I'll also say that Tim at Colorado Brewing has been great answering questions when I had them. My consistent efficiency with this system is 90+%. (96% once). My basket has mesh sides but the new ones have solid sides. With solid sides you should be able to filter through the grain bed and get clearer wort if that matters to you. I'm my experience, the extra stuff in the fermentor makes no difference, I still get clear, clean fermentations. IMHO, these are the best systems for the money that you can buy. If you have specific ? Please ask. Hope this helps
brianccarr
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the reply. Have you been able to do five gallon batches? I will mostly do 10 gallon batches but the ability to do the occasional five gallon batch would be great. I'm trying to understand what I gain from spending more on the Pro Down Under. Im ready to order; just a little uncertain on whether to go with the "Nano Brewer Home" or the "Pro-Level Nano Brewer Down Under".
Any idea what setting you have on your mill? Also, are you doing full volume mash or are you holding some water for a sparge?
OP
OP
Brianccarr and Pretzelb
I do 6 gal batches to yeld a full 5 gal finished beer or 11 gal to get 10. It just seemed to work out that way for me, YMMV. It appears to me that the pro system has more included parts and is definitely a much heavier duty stand. The control panel also has an added timer. Rather system will serve you well I'm sure.
My mil is set at .030 and I do no sparge full volume mashes. I press the grains with a pot lid and loose about a half gallon of liquid volume for a 6 gallon batch. Hope this helps, happy brewing.
I do 6 gal batches to yeld a full 5 gal finished beer or 11 gal to get 10. It just seemed to work out that way for me, YMMV. It appears to me that the pro system has more included parts and is definitely a much heavier duty stand. The control panel also has an added timer. Rather system will serve you well I'm sure.
My mil is set at .030 and I do no sparge full volume mashes. I press the grains with a pot lid and loose about a half gallon of liquid volume for a 6 gallon batch. Hope this helps, happy brewing.
OP
OP
Here are a couple pics of my system
OP
OP
#2
I like the stand you picked. Very nice setup.
I'm going to see if my mill can handle the 030 range. I had not thought to try and squeeze the grains. I'm not sure if I have a lid that might help do that. Or maybe I need to try one change at a time.
I thought of a few more questions if you don't mind.
Do you have a recirculation port on the kettle? If so, how are you angling it? I'm not getting all the debris in the center.
Related to the first question, with your plate chiller are you using a hop filter and if so which one? I'm not used to the plate chiller and I'm concerned about keeping it clean.
OP
OP
Yes there is a recirculation port with a recirculation arm included. It will give you a nice whirlpool. As far as the plate chiller goes, I do not use a filter, I circulate PBW in reverse for 15-20 min as part of my cleaning practice after each brew day. Rinse with clean water in reverse and have never had a problem. Make sure you circulate wort above 180 deg thru for 10 min before you chill to make sure it's sanitized. Just make sure you clean it immediately after brewing, don't let stuff dry in there. Many recommend baking in the oven every couple brews but I've used mine for over 2 years without
issue.Yes there is a recirculation port with a recirculation arm included. It will give you a nice whirlpool. As far as the plate chiller goes, I do not use a filter, I circulate PBW in reverse for 15-20 min as part of my cleaning practice after each brew day. Rinse with clean water in reverse and have never had a problem. Make sure you circulate wort above 180 deg thru for 10 min before you chill to make sure it's sanitized. Just make sure you clean it immediately after brewing, don't let stuff dry in there. Many recommend baking in the oven every couple brews but I've used mine for over 2 years without
I wonder if I need to look at adjusting my hoses because I don't get a great whirlpool. Then again I don't know exactly what to look for.
I'm surprised you circulate wort through the chiller prior to chilling. I was going to do that but I assumed that would just throw tons of debris through the chiller and lead to clogging. Instead I try to run Starsan through prior to each use.
I do the reverse cleaning cycle and it does seem to work but you just can't be sure. I have yet to taste my first batch with the plate chiller so I won't know how well I'm doing on the cleaning.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
If there is still any debris/buildup in the chiller StarSan can't get through it to sanitize -- it requires direct contact. Heat, on the other hand, will heat up any debris and pasteurize it.
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Or clean the plate chiller after each use, then just run star san through it while you are boiling and you don't even have to bother running boiling wort through it. That's what I have started doing with my CFC chiller the last few brews.
I don't follow what you mean. My assumption is you need to avoid debris entering a plate chiller at all costs. Once it gets in there you can only hope a good reverse flush will push it out. Using that logic you try your best to make sure what enters the plate chiller is debris free. This is one main reason the hop filter market exists. So following this logic, a procedure that will result in lots of debris flowing into the chiller seems like a bad idea even if it does result with boiled wort entering the chiller.
Am I missing something?
30Bones
Well-Known Member
Plate chillers require some sort of hop filtration unless you sanitize it like I said AND whirlpool and let your hops/proteins settle out and you run it out of the kettle slowly. I am not 100% sold on plate chillers yet. I do know they work amazingly well though.
andrewmaixner
Well-Known Member
No, you are correct.
But *if* there is any buildup that didn't get properly cleaned out, heat has an advantage over chemicals for sanitizing it.
OP
OP
Remember, starsan is a sanitizer not a cleaner. You MUST clean before you sanitize or you are wasting your time, that's what the PBW does. Boiling wort will kill anything that escapes the cleaning process. Starsan by its self will not save you from contamination.
brianccarr
Well-Known Member
Looks like the pro version kettle has an extra port on the side near the bottom dedicated to just whirl pooling. I assume on the home version you just remove the metal tube that is attached to the basket for mash whirlpool and remove the basket. Then reattach the same tube to the kettle somehow and use for the wort whirlpool. If that's correct, how do you attach the tube back onto the kettle and is this whirlpool just as affective as having a dedicated whirlpool port at the bottom side of the kettle?
OP
OP
I'm not sure with the current version. I have old version with a tri clover port near the top (see my pic). After mash I remove the recirculation arm, pull out the basket then return the recirculation arm. Tim would be more able to better answer your questions on the new system
I include the chill plate with my kettle cleaning process loop. My fear of using boiling wort is adding debris to the chill plate. Plus, I assume Starsan will sanitize just like boiling wort will. So by not using the debris filled wort to sanitize I should be keeping debris out of my chill plate. In theory of course.
I'm also surprised clogging the plate isn't an issue.
I've never heard of anyone NOT circulating boiling wort through their plate chiller. Personally, I throw all my hops into a bag or SS filter during the boil to keep a majority of junk out of the chiller. But the hot break material and cold break all get pumped through it. I also circulate back to the kettle while chilling because I have hot Texas water.
Here's the thing. You will not keep everything out of your plate chiller, no matter what you do. The process of chilling the boiling wort precipitates proteins, what we call cold break.
I think you may be overly concerned with keeping your plate chiller pristine. Just keep the big hop debris out of it. The break material is light and fluffy and shouldn't plug the chiller. When you're done chilling, back flush. I back flush by shoving the end of my water hose over the wort out side and let it flush for 5-10 minutes. I haven't had any issues with clogging or infections, or any other nightmares you might dream up.
I've heard stories about folks that have nasty, chunky stuff shoot out of their plate chillers. But it's always the ones who wait a day or two before cleaning up after a brew day.
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