Unboxing Colorado Brewing Systems new Single Vessel System

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I look at this as soaking the grains rather than using the grains for a filter like on a "traditional" mash tun. It really shouldn't matter where the wort goes as much with BIAB. Maybe I am wrong

You are correct. In BIAB, the bag or basket serves as the filter, not the grain bed. You really only need the grain to be wet and consistent in temperature to convert, then your focus is on ensuring you capture all of the liquid (not leaving the sugars behind). When you are sparging, you typically want the liquid to flow uniformly so that parts of the grain bed dont go unrinsed. That is a non-issue with BIAB, as you are (normally) already at your full volume.
 
You are correct. In BIAB, the bag or basket serves as the filter, not the grain bed.

I get that. But I also read somewhere above that the basket doesn't filter as well as a traditional grain bed ... that the wort remains cloudier. So, as I asked, why not combine techniques? If at mash-out we slow the recirc right down, wouldn't the grain settle into a traditional grain bed above the basket mesh (similar to the way it creates a bed above a false bottom), and that bed would provide additional filtering?
 
I get that. But I also read somewhere above that the basket doesn't filter as well as a traditional grain bed ... that the wort remains cloudier. So, as I asked, why not combine techniques? If at mash-out we slow the recirc right down, wouldn't the grain settle into a traditional grain bed above the basket mesh (similar to the way it creates a bed above a false bottom), and that bed would provide additional filtering?

This is a bit off topic and could probably stand in a thread of it's own. I'm no expert but I think the answer is related to the crush. Because you often crush finer with BIAB it becomes nearly impossible to get perfect clarity. I could be wrong.

Then again, there's the question whether or not you should even concern yourself with the clarity of the wort since many think it doesn't matter in the end.
 
Another product from my hometown maybe he'll give me a deal lol.... I talked with him on the phone a couple times he is really cool
 
I'm not concerned with wort clarity going into the fermenter. I do 30 day primary and it always comes out crystal clear no matter how it went in.
 
I also won't be crushing finer but I will recirculate using my version of the cofi from brew boss.

I got the 40 gallon pot and the 400 micron basket from Colorado brewing. Piecing the rest of my system together myself.
 
I got the 40 gallon pot and the 400 micron basket from Colorado brewing. Piecing the rest of my system together myself.

40g? Wow. Impressive. I'm still on the fence to buying the 20g system from Co Brewing.
 
Yeah going from a 10 gal single tier 3 vessel LP rig. Trying to have less brew days by going to a 1bbl system. By increasing what I put out x 3 I hope to reduce my brewing x 3. Then trying to lessen the strain on my back by doing BIAB and using an overhead hoist to do the lifting.
 
40g? Wow. Impressive. I'm still on the fence to buying the 20g system from Co Brewing.

If you have the money splash out on it... unfortunately it wasn't an option for me.. but if want to save 4 or 5 benjamins then use the kettle you already have and either mount a good stainless based element with good stainless housing from brewhardware or go hot rod route and you can't beat that little PID I bought you can buy one like it from auber too. I'm sure you know someone who could drill the kettle if you can't ...I just think 900 bucks is a little much but if you have it support my hometown he seems super dialed in. .. they don't have just the baskets for sale yet..... buy a pizza pan and put some stainless steel bolts for your false bottom and use a bag... brew hardware has a quick disconnect kit and with the $20 pump online , I was going to buy the chugger , you're set... I'm personally bailing on pump.... I just wanted everything to work right away and it will as soon as I get 220 dammit
 
I sold my old brew rig which covered the pot and basket. Now every two weeks when I get paid I buy a piece off the list. I'm a few tid bits a controller and something to ferment 1bbl in away from being able to brew again. So months away.

I bought the pot and then the basket a couple weeks later. So they have sold them sperately. Email Tim and ask. I can tell you that getting the basket from Colorado brewing was guy $100 cheaper than Arbor Fab. I figured I'd get the pot from Colorado and the basket from Arbor Fab figuring they would do the basket cheaper. Boy I was wrong.
 
Quick question as I am new to electric...what would you guys think about using the 20G system with 2 120V elements as opposed to the 220 or 240v, not sure what it is. I have an electric stove, so I could probably plug into that, but I don't know for sure and I know the wiring in my apartment is super old. I'm scared to do it. I'd be more comfortable with 2 120v elements. What say all of you?
 
Quick question as I am new to electric...what would you guys think about using the 20G system with 2 120V elements as opposed to the 220 or 240v, not sure what it is. I have an electric stove, so I could probably plug into that, but I don't know for sure and I know the wiring in my apartment is super old. I'm scared to do it. I'd be more comfortable with 2 120v elements. What say all of you?

I think more info will be needed to provide reasonable feedback. What size batches are you making? Are you using 20 amp or 15 amp 120v service? What wattage elements are you planning to use?
 
Quick question as I am new to electric...what would you guys think about using the 20G system with 2 120V elements as opposed to the 220 or 240v, not sure what it is. I have an electric stove, so I could probably plug into that, but I don't know for sure and I know the wiring in my apartment is super old. I'm scared to do it. I'd be more comfortable with 2 120v elements. What say all of you?

If you have an electric stove it is definitely 220/240v. Look in the breaker panel and see what it is rated at, mine is on a 30amp. You could unplug your stove and plug in the brew rig, easy as that. (Maybe add in GFCI for safety).

If you are doing 5 gallon batches, you could probably do 120v with no problems. I wouldnt go any larger than 5 gallons though.
 
If you have an electric stove it is definitely 220/240v. Look in the breaker panel and see what it is rated at, mine is on a 30amp. You could unplug your stove and plug in the brew rig, easy as that. (Maybe add in GFCI for safety).

If you are doing 5 gallon batches, you could probably do 120v with no problems. I wouldnt go any larger than 5 gallons though.

that should NEVER be a MAYBE.

ALWAYS add a GFCI!

if anything goes faulty, you can die... beer isn't worth that.
the GFCI will always trip before you get majorly hurt.
 
Yeah going from a 10 gal single tier 3 vessel LP rig. Trying to have less brew days by going to a 1bbl system. By increasing what I put out x 3 I hope to reduce my brewing x 3. Then trying to lessen the strain on my back by doing BIAB and using an overhead hoist to do the lifting.

How are you going to ferment /brew? Are you going to keg?
 
I'm bouncing back n forth on fermenting I can either get one 1 bbl SS conical and do something for cooling for the warm seasons.

Or for about the same or even less cost I am really leaning towards using 40 or 45 gallon SS pots as fermenters with each in its own refrigerator (used working fridges can be had for $20 from a local big box appliance seller) I am thinking I could have 3.

I will be kegging into Sanke Kegs that will go in chest freezer (s) kegerator (s).
 
@rappell how long does it take to ramp up from the temp to mash out? I have brewed with a friend that has an electric HERMs and it takes a fair amount of time and it got me thinking about when I buy this if it will be slower, faster or the same.
 
@rappell how long does it take to ramp up from the temp to mash out? I have brewed with a friend that has an electric HERMs and it takes a fair amount of time and it got me thinking about when I buy this if it will be slower, faster or the same.

Im still waiting to brew on mine, but it will be significantly faster than a HERMs system as you are not exchanging the heat, but rather heating the wort directly.
 
Im still waiting to brew on mine, but it will be significantly faster than a HERMs system as you are not exchanging the heat, but rather heating the wort directly.
That's what I assumed, but no first hand knowledge. I am still a 2 vessel batch sparge brewer with an HLT/BK and cooler for a MT
 
@rappell how long does it take to ramp up from the temp to mash out? I have brewed with a friend that has an electric HERMs and it takes a fair amount of time and it got me thinking about when I buy this if it will be slower, faster or the same.

30Bones the best answer is, it depends. What heating element you have, what temp are you heating to and what is your water temp out of the tap. That said, my water temp now is about 50 and heating to 148 took about 20 min. I put my water on to heat then started weighing my grains and milling. By the time everything was milled I was ready to mash in. I'm using a 5500w element. Hope that helps. I spoke with Tim from Col Brewing via email last Monday and he said there are a couple improvements to the system coming on line soon. Hope this helps
 
30Bones the best answer is, it depends. What heating element you have, what temp are you heating to and what is your water temp out of the tap. That said, my water temp now is about 50 and heating to 148 took about 20 min. I put my water on to heat then started weighing my grains and milling. By the time everything was milled I was ready to mash in. I'm using a 5500w element. Hope that helps. I spoke with Tim from Col Brewing via email last Monday and he said there are a couple improvements to the system coming on line soon. Hope this helps
I am more concerned with ramping from mash temp (~150) to mash out temp (~168) times. I will be using a 5500W element as well.
 
30Bones the best answer is, it depends. What heating element you have, what temp are you heating to and what is your water temp out of the tap. That said, my water temp now is about 50 and heating to 148 took about 20 min. I put my water on to heat then started weighing my grains and milling. By the time everything was milled I was ready to mash in. I'm using a 5500w element. Hope that helps. I spoke with Tim from Col Brewing via email last Monday and he said there are a couple improvements to the system coming on line soon. Hope this helps


Did Tim happen to say what the improvements are? I have the 15 gallon single vessel and have nothing but good things to say about it so far.
 
Did Tim happen to say what the improvements are? I have the 15 gallon single vessel and have nothing but good things to say about it so far.

This is what he said, "On the 2016 version of the system is going to have a redesigned recirculation fitting (if I ever get a minute to put the pictures on the website) rather than a hose, It is a 1/2" stainless tube that goes through the fitting and down into the mash to create the whirlpool. On the new version it attaches to the basket rather than through the kettle, but we are making it so it can be a retrofit on the original version as well." I'm looking forward to see what it looks like.
 
This is what he said, "On the 2016 version of the system is going to have a redesigned recirculation fitting (if I ever get a minute to put the pictures on the website) rather than a hose, It is a 1/2" stainless tube that goes through the fitting and down into the mash to create the whirlpool. On the new version it attaches to the basket rather than through the kettle, but we are making it so it can be a retrofit on the original version as well." I'm looking forward to see what it looks like.

Does that mean current systems come with that, or not yet?
 
Here is a pic of the new recirculation fitting.

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=332176&stc=1&d=1453507815

FullSizeRender (4).jpg
 
how far does the new recirc arm extend into the basket? it looks like it goes pretty deep into the pot

am also curious if it will create a stronger whirlpool vs the older silicone tubing?
 
I like that for whirlpooling, unsure what to think about that being used recirculating the mash in the middle of the bed. Maybe it makes zero difference.
 
I like that for whirlpooling, unsure what to think about that being used recirculating the mash in the middle of the bed. Maybe it makes zero difference.
After seeing this new video I get it now with the solid side baskets they sell now. :mug:

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uROkO0gJLRQ[/ame]
 
Would love to see a pic when you get it

So I screwed up my subscribed posts and responded to the wrong one. I have a nano system on order which is not the same as the single vessel originally mentioned in this post. But I think the changes will be similar so when my arrives I'll try to remember to reply here. My guess is my system will be very similar to the one posted here. My mind is still buzzing trying to figure out how to adapt to this major change in my brew process.
 
So I screwed up my subscribed posts and responded to the wrong one. I have a nano system on order which is not the same as the single vessel originally mentioned in this post. But I think the changes will be similar so when my arrives I'll try to remember to reply here. My guess is my system will be very similar to the one posted here. My mind is still buzzing trying to figure out how to adapt to this major change in my brew process.


I'm sure it will take just a few batches to nail volumes and grain absorption numbers. I love the new basket design in the video posted.
 
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