American IPA The New West Coast IPA

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Can confirm this is super tasty, I was lucky enough to get a couple cans from @secretlevel. Loads and loads of rip grapefruit.

I also brewed the sorta mostly dead recipe recently, love this grain bill as a base for WC IPAs.
While it was tasty to drink, the judges didn't like it very much. Some complaints of beer being too light in color and in character (only 6.3% abv), so there's that. If I were to brew this for a comp, I'd probably go with 2-row vs pils, go up to 7% or so and add a second dry hop.
 
Ya that’s too bad. If I was doing a comp for American IPA I’d take a totally different approach. Two row, Munich centennial/cascade. Whatever dude, I wouldn’t fret it. Remind me not to enter another IPA in a comp!

I’ve actually done much better in comps with helles, kolsch, German pils. The “hard” styles are actually easier to score well I think.
 
Last edited:
While it was tasty to drink, the judges didn't like it very much. Some complaints of beer being too light in color and in character (only 6.3% abv), so there's that. If I were to brew this for a comp, I'd probably go with 2-row vs pils, go up to 7% or so and add a second dry hop.
Similar problem i have when entering my hazy pale ale. Not strong enough to be an IPA and it doesn’t look or feel like a regular pale ale.
 
Ya that’s too bad. If I was doing a comp for American IPA I’d take a totally different approach. Two row, Munich centennial/cascade. Whatever dude, I wouldn’t fret it. Remind me not to enter another IPA in a comp!

I’ve actually done much better in comps with helles, kolsch, German pils. The “hard” styles are actually easier to score well I think.
I just chatted with the guy who placed #2 at the Comp and he actually made a modern IPA for that, so there's hope! His was higher abv and Strata/Mosaic instead of Simcoe/Mosaic.
 
Similar problem i have when entering my hazy pale ale. Not strong enough to be an IPA and it doesn’t look or feel like a regular pale ale.
Hazy Pale Ale is a favorite style of mine. I just got back from a trip to New Zealand, and there were a lot more Hazy Pale Ales on tap than Hazy IPAs. Who would have thunk that not every country likes to consume 8.5% beers while at the pub! I have never tried to enter anything into 34C. Experimental Beer, it seems like too much of a crapshoot left up to the judges whims, but I am not sure there is a better spot. For now, I just figure that is a style for me to brew and enjoy, and submit other beers to competitions.

I got some negative comments from a few judges about my 2-Row + Wheat + Munich IPA being too light in color for the American IPA category.
 
Latest west coast. This has some new tweaks. Tried 4% raw wheat, got the idea from pure project in San Diego, they use it in all their hoppy beers for head and some softness. The foam on this is excellent. But I also do a mash rest at 160 that I think helps. FG 1.006, I love it. Maybe I like 1.006-1.008 the same.

This is 40 IBUs of simcoe at start of boil. I’m liking more IBUs in these beers, especially with simcoe. I think we homebrewers need it because our WP doesn’t add as much bitterness with quick chilling times, or maybe I’m having pallete shift.

This has a 15oz dry hop in 7 gallons finished beer. It’s 7 oz of strata that smells good but not pungent and the aroma on this beer is lacking. More dry hops obviously isnt always the answer, there is a magic something something that still comes and goes for me.
IMG_7243.jpeg
IMG_7228.jpeg
IMG_7249.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Didn’t realize I didn’t post the recipe earlier but I brewed a really simple modern west

100% Pilsner dme (no grain at all)
Yeast: us05
1.069
1.011
Abv: 7.6%

Hotside 2:1
Mosiac
Talus

Dryhop 2:2:1
Mosaic cryo
Nectaron
Talus

Ended up taking a silver at Homebrew alley this past weekend. So if you’re an extract brewer, just know dme can make a great beer with heathy and controlled fermentation and your coldside process is dialed in!
IMG_1835.jpeg
IMG_1831.jpeg
 
Didn’t realize I didn’t post the recipe earlier but I brewed a really simple modern west

100% Pilsner dme (no grain at all)
Yeast: us05
1.069
1.011
Abv: 7.6%

Hotside 2:1
Mosiac
Talus

Dryhop 2:2:1
Mosaic cryo
Nectaron
Talus

Ended up taking a silver at Homebrew alley this past weekend. So if you’re an extract brewer, just know dme can make a great beer with heathy and controlled fermentation and your coldside process is dialed in! View attachment 846631View attachment 846632

Excellent
 
Can you mention the brand of Pilsner DME that you used?
To tell you the truth, I don’t even recall and I bought it from my local. I believe they only carry Briess Dme though. I can give them a shout though if you’d like
 
@Dgallo sounds so great - that’s the kinda beer that reminds me even with two kids I’ll never want to quit home brewing - a super easy fresh delicious ipa still way cheaper than commercial with DME!

What do you do for a bittering IBUs and hot side hopping rates for a beer like that? I don’t do much in that DIPA range.
 
Last edited:
@Dgallo sounds so great - that’s the kinda beer that reminds me even with two kids I’ll never want to quit home brewing - a super easy fresh delicious ipa still way cheaper than commercial with DME!

What do you do for a bittering IBUs and hot side hopping rates for a beer like that? I don’t do much in that DIPA range.
For bittnerness I use about a 1.0 BU/GU ratio. So this beer was 70 ibus.

Whirlpool rate was just about 1 oz per gallon.

Dryhop was 2oz per gallon
 
Didn’t realize I didn’t post the recipe earlier but I brewed a really simple modern west

100% Pilsner dme (no grain at all)
Yeast: us05
1.069
1.011
Abv: 7.6%

Hotside 2:1
Mosiac
Talus

Dryhop 2:2:1
Mosaic cryo
Nectaron
Talus

Ended up taking a silver at Homebrew alley this past weekend. So if you’re an extract brewer, just know dme can make a great beer with heathy and controlled fermentation and your coldside process is dialed in! View attachment 846631View attachment 846632
How do you get such a great color with DME? Whenever I throw it in when I miss OG, I get 10+ SRMs over target.
 
How do you get such a great color with DME? Whenever I throw it in when I miss OG, I get 10+ SRMs over target.
Hmmm. Which dme are you using? Pilsner lite dme is a touch darker than when using just Pilsner malt but literally only a touch. I’d say max, 4.5-5 SRM. I also wait to add most of my dme at flame out.
 
Hmmm. Which dme are you using? Pilsner lite dme is a touch darker than when using just Pilsner malt but literally only a touch. I’d say max, 4.5-5 SRM. I also wait to add most of my dme at flame out.
An old bottle of Pilsen light LME from Briess I had on hand. Good advice to wait until the last second of the boil. The last time I did this was in a panic after getting horrible mash efficiency on a triple and still needed a longer boil to hit my numbers. I looked oxidized going into the fermenter. Still tasted good, but not pretty. It took me way too long to realize efficiencies scale with OG.
 
An old bottle of Pilsen light LME from Briess I had on hand. Good advice to wait until the last second of the boil. The last time I did this was in a panic after getting horrible mash efficiency on a triple and still needed a longer boil to hit my numbers. I looked oxidized going into the fermenter. Still tasted good, but not pretty. It took me way too long to realize efficiencies scale with OG.
Lme is definitely darker than dme especially if it’s old as the lme itself can oxidize.

I would just suggest always keeping 3 lbs of Pilsner lite and Bavarian wheat DME on hand. When I brew triple IPAs, instead of maxing out my mash ton I’ll use about 10-15% dme. Bavarian wheat dme is my main choice here because I get my GU I’m looking for but can add more body using wheat verse Pilsner lite
 
I’ve been really enjoying this style on the lower end of the abv spectrum recently. This one is all North Star Pils with a hint of Carapils, Ella first wort (30 IBUs), Sabro WP (1 oz/gal) and Azacca/Cashmere dryhop (1.2 oz/gal). Finished at 4.8 abv. Never went thru 10 gal faster. I also am a big biofine fan (2.5 mL per gallon in this one).
A9437D6B-90FF-402D-8CC4-E8D50E0EC14E.jpeg
 
Any one had one of these that just won't drop clear?

My most recent brew was basically the original recipe posted in this thread but different hops.

Simcoe Nelson in the boil to 1 BU/GU.
Simcoe Nelson in the whirlpool at ~1 oz/gallon
Mosaic/Simcoe dry hop at ~2 oz/gallon
Note that is more hops than I usually have used but matched Dgallo's rates.

I also used Biofine and still has a bit of a kind of green ish haze to it.

It's a decent beer but not the same wow factor I usually get when I brew this style. Kind of tastes like early samples of previous ones like this that weren't quite ready yet. It's been in the keg a month though and not sure it's changing any more at this point.
 
Any one had one of these that just won't drop clear?

My most recent brew was basically the original recipe posted in this thread but different hops.

Simcoe Nelson in the boil to 1 BU/GU.
Simcoe Nelson in the whirlpool at ~1 oz/gallon
Mosaic/Simcoe dry hop at ~2 oz/gallon
Note that is more hops than I usually have used but matched Dgallo's rates.

I also used Biofine and still has a bit of a kind of green ish haze to it.

It's a decent beer but not the same wow factor I usually get when I brew this style. Kind of tastes like early samples of previous ones like this that weren't quite ready yet. It's been in the keg a month though and not sure it's changing any more at this point.
What was your biofine rate and what was your process? If it’s an older bottle, you have to shake the **** out of it before applying. It separates on its own over time.
 
Any one had one of these that just won't drop clear?

My most recent brew was basically the original recipe posted in this thread but different hops.

Simcoe Nelson in the boil to 1 BU/GU.
Simcoe Nelson in the whirlpool at ~1 oz/gallon
Mosaic/Simcoe dry hop at ~2 oz/gallon
Note that is more hops than I usually have used but matched Dgallo's rates.

I also used Biofine and still has a bit of a kind of green ish haze to it.

It's a decent beer but not the same wow factor I usually get when I brew this style. Kind of tastes like early samples of previous ones like this that weren't quite ready yet. It's been in the keg a month though and not sure it's changing any more at this point.
Yeah biofine fine rates and how you add it will really determine your clarity
 
Latest west coast. This has some new tweaks. Tried 4% raw wheat, got the idea from pure project in San Diego, they use it in all their hoppy beers for head and some softness. The foam on this is excellent. But I also do a mash rest at 160 that I think helps. FG 1.006, I love it. Maybe I like 1.006-1.008 the same.

This is 40 IBUs of simcoe at start of boil. I’m liking more IBUs in these beers, especially with simcoe. I think we homebrewers need it because our WP doesn’t add as much bitterness with quick chilling times, or maybe I’m having pallete shift.

This has a 15oz dry hop in 7 gallons finished beer. It’s 7 oz of strata that smells good but not pungent and the aroma on this beer is lacking. More dry hops obviously isnt always the answer, there is a magic something something that still comes and goes for me.View attachment 846616View attachment 846617View attachment 846619
Your making me thirsty. How long of a rest at 160 do you do?
 
Yeah biofine fine rates and how you add it will really determine your clarity
Anyone here know where I can get Biofine here in Europe (Germany) or what a suitable alternative product would be, or am I stuck with gelatine?

I bought this product on a whim which should work, it's a two part liquid fining agent (gelatin & kiesolsol)

https://www.youngsgroup.co.uk/catal...r-it-wine-beer-finings-135270-ltrs-425-detail

I'm just a bit concerned that it says you have to mix it well, which may cause some oxidation.
With Biofine do you just have to pour it on top?
 
Anyone here know where I can get Biofine here in Europe (Germany) or what a suitable alternative product would be, or am I stuck with gelatine?

I bought this product on a whim which should work, it's a two part liquid fining agent (gelatin & kiesolsol)

https://www.youngsgroup.co.uk/catal...r-it-wine-beer-finings-135270-ltrs-425-detail

I'm just a bit concerned that it says you have to mix it well, which may cause some oxidation.
With Biofine do you just have to pour it on top?
I add it to the purged serving keg Prior to close transfer to it. I’ll hook up the co2 to the liquid post of my keg. I’ll have the measured amount of biofine in a syringe. Then I’ll remove the prv while the gas is running, place the syringe tip in the prv opening and add it to the keg. I’ll let the gas run a few more seconds. Then I close up the prv. Then I’ll close transfer the beer to the keg. This beer should have already been crashed and cold. The racking mixes it pretty well but since the keg was purged, you can lay it on its side and rock the keg around to mix it better
 
I add it to the purged serving keg Prior to close transfer to it. I’ll hook up the co2 to the liquid post of my keg. I’ll have the measured amount of biofine in a syringe. Then I’ll remove the prv while the gas is running, place the syringe tip in the prv opening and add it to the keg. I’ll let the gas run a few more seconds. Then I close up the prv. Then I’ll close transfer the beer to the keg. This beer should have already been crashed and cold. The racking mixes it pretty well but since the keg was purged, you can lay it on its side and rock the keg around to mix it better
Thanks for explaining your process. I'll try once I start doing closed transfers. Still trying to figure out how to fit my fermonster in the fridge for the cold crash lol
 
What was your biofine rate and what was your process? If it’s an older bottle, you have to shake the **** out of it before applying. It separates on its own over time.

I used 10mL of Biofine for 5 gallons, which looking back is a bit on the low side but not terrible. It's similar to what I've used done in the past, but I also dry hopped this one more than in the past so maybe needed more Biofine. I did not shake it before adding that is a new tip for me. Bottle is probably 9 ish months old.

My process is pretty similar to what Dgallo describes above. The only difference being I closed transferred the beer before adding the Biofine. My thought was there is less head space to allow O2 in and also to purge after with that method. I force carbed this one partially with the 30psi/roll keg for ~ 10 minutes 3 times so I think it should have been well mixed after that.

Maybe shake the crap out of the bottle and add a bit more?

I hold it at 160-161 for 10 minutes.



@Langerz why do you think it’s not that great? Sounds like a killer beer.

It's not a bad beer, but doesn't measure up to the previous ones I've done with this style. It's doesn't have quite the hop flavor both on the bitter and aroma side that I've had with previous cases. It reminds me of the first time I brewed it. There's a post somewhere from me in this thread basically saying "guys what am I missing this doesn't taste like what you guys are describing". Dgallo replied basically "let it drop clear and report back". I gave it a few more days and wow it was incredible. That's been the case every time I brewed it until this one.

I should add I did a massive update to brewing and fermenting equipment over the winter and this is the first time with that style on this setup. Everything else I've done on the new set up has been great though including some old school west coast IPAs.
 
Thanks for explaining your process. I'll try once I start doing closed transfers. Still trying to figure out how to fit my fermonster in the fridge for the cold crash lol

If you look around there dirt cheap chest freezers available often. That plus an inkbird and you are good to go. They are a bit of a pain reaching down into them, but a low cost option.
 
If you look around there dirt cheap chest freezers available often. That plus an inkbird and you are good to go. They are a bit of a pain reaching down into them, but a low cost option.
Yes, if I lived alone I would do that in a heartbeat but my girlfriend is already complaining about me taking over the whole basement with my brewing equipment, so I'm stuck with a small fridge. She's also been greenwashed so dirt cheap old freezers won't pass her energy efficiency requirements :D
I just need to get some quick fit NC connectors with a lower profile than the traditional ones and then the Fermonster should just about fit.
 
Yes, if I lived alone I would do that in a heartbeat but my girlfriend is already complaining about me taking over the whole basement with my brewing equipment, so I'm stuck with a small fridge. She's also been greenwashed so dirt cheap old freezers won't pass her energy efficiency requirements :D
I just need to get some quick fit NC connectors with a lower profile than the traditional ones and then the Fermonster should just about fit.
I took over the old breast milk chest freezer….almost got killed for that one lol
 
Back
Top