Spike Conical- observations and best practices

[Blazinlow86]

I don't have the carb stone because I bought a spunding valve. I just set it to 15PSI when I get close to the end of fermentation. I set my regulator to around 10PSI during cold-crash since I'm going to take it down to 32 degrees. By the time I'm done I am ready to keg I am very close to the right carbonation.

If all that doesn't get me where I want to be I'll burst carbonate. It's cool, but it's a neat solution to a problem I don't have.

Now if I made high gravity beers it would be a great way to deliver O2, but I don't.

Guess it depends on your processes timeline. I also use a spunding valve but due to the 15psi safety release on the cf15 that can only get you to appx 1.5 carb rate for a typical ale yeast. With the stone you can then get it precisely up to as high as 3.2 depending on your cooling solution if needed in 24 hours after cold crashing and then transfer to kegs to be stored until needed. If your doing single kegs it might not be that big a advantage but if doing multiple kegs it's definitely the way to go. No downside besides the additional cost. Cheers

 

[Stand]

Guess it depends on your processes timeline. I also use a spunding valve but due to the 15psi safety release on the cf15 that can only get you to appx 1.5 carb rate for a typical ale yeast. With the stone you can then get it precisely up to as high as 3.2 depending on your cooling solution if needed in 24 hours after cold crashing and then transfer to kegs to be stored until needed. If your doing single kegs it might not be that big a advantage but if doing multiple kegs it's definitely the way to go. No downside besides the additional cost. Cheers

I'm not sure how the math works, but my chart says 15PSI@65 is 1.70 vol. I usually cold crash and let it sit at 32 degrees for about 2 days, and I've got the CO2 flowing during that time. I generally set my regulator to around 10-12 PSI because I need to have more pressure (15PSI) to push the beer into the keg because I set my spunding valve to 10PSI on the keg during transfer.

I usually leave the beer in my kegerator at least another 24h after transferring to let it settle a bit before the first pour, and it seems fully carbonated, although I don't know what the math would say.

I make a lot of Belgian beers, it would definitely help with those.

Does the carb stone kick up yeast while carbonating? Is it a big deal to clean it?

Cheers!

 

[Blazinlow86]

I'm not sure how the math works, but my chart says 15PSI@65 is 1.70 vol. I usually cold crash and let it sit at 32 degrees for about 2 days, and I've got the CO2 flowing during that time. I generally set my regulator to around 10-12 PSI because I need to have more pressure (15PSI) to push the beer into the keg because I set my spunding valve to 10PSI on the keg during transfer.

I usually leave the beer in my kegerator at least another 24h after transferring to let it settle a bit before the first pour, and it seems fully carbonated, although I don't know what the math would say.

I make a lot of Belgian beers, it would definitely help with those.

Does the carb stone kick up yeast while carbonating? Is it a big deal to clean it?

Cheers!

You would drop the cone after cold crashing prior to adding the carb stone. I boil the stone for 10 mins prior to use. No cleaning involved. Im unsure how long it takes to get from 1.70- 2.50 carb rate without a stone or force carbing but I image it's longer than 24 hrs. I find it easier to transfer already fully carbed beer to 3 kegs without any extra time over my old method of transferring to 3 kegs then waiting a week for them to carbonate. Im in the consistency is king camp so I don't force carb. Additionally it's nice to be able to bottle sediment free beer grain to glass straight out of the fermentor in as little as 7 days if required. Cheers

 

[Blazinlow86]

Come to think about it I did carb once during cold crashing prior to dumping as I was in a hurry to have enough product for a large wedding reception on short notice. No noticeable difference and we went thru all 9 kegs very quickly but im generally not in that big a rush and haven't done it that way again. Cheers

 

[ZmannR2]

I'm going to throw this in here for those looking for ways to integrate pumps into their brewing and cleaning setup.

Thats awesome....I need to buy some 1.5" and 2" TC covers so I can do cleanings like that....

I don't have the full leg extensions I have the shortys so I'm not sure if that setup will work for me.

Do you keep the sight glass attached the whole time?

 

[mongoose33]

Thats awesome....I need to buy some 1.5" and 2" TC covers so I can do cleanings like that....

I have a 2" one as well, but I never use it. Want to buy it?

I don't have the full leg extensions I have the shortys so I'm not sure if that setup will work for me.

If you keep it on the ground, probably not. If you build a stand for the fermenter with an opening between the legs, maybe it would work that way.

Do you keep the sight glass attached the whole time?

I do. The PBW cleaning solution works wonders there, and the valve, being opened up, is cleaned as well. Clean...in...place. Hot PBW solution works wonders.

You can see in the pic that I have a hose running into the top of the fermenter to partially fill it with hot water. When done, I'll replace the cooling coil and let it get a good cleaning too, rotating it 180 degrees after 5 minutes so both sides see the cleaning solution. Then I remove it, rinse it off in the sink, and stick it in a bucket of star-san while I do the rest.

When I doing this, I'll disconnect the long line of tubing from the pump to the CIP ball and put it in the sink to drain out the cleaning solution. I'll add back some fresh water, then reconnect the tube to the CIP ball, and recirculate and let it rinse. But it's not pure water yet, so I'll do the same thing, i.e., move tubing from CIP ball to sink to empty. Typically this is about a gallon or so. Then repeat again, then again. Takes about 10 minutes.

You have to be careful to spray out or flush the insides of the ports to which the valves attach to ensure gunk there is cleaned out. Usually that's taken care of with the first rinse-down of the inside of the fermenter.

Then I'll open it up and rinse it again with the sink sprayer, with the pump emptying the fermenter. I also spray the underside of the lid, and have rinsed it out completely. Then spray down the lid and inside the conical with Star-San, making sure it coats everything including the sight glass, button it up, re-attached the now-clean and rinsed sampling and racking valves, and I'm ready for the next time.

 

[HB2 HughBHomeBrew]

I have a CF5. Broken down, its small enough to fit in a large kitchen size sink with sprayer; have an outdoor kitchen area I can use.

The rest all goes in the dishwasher (also happen to have a second dishwasher as part of a “wet bar” part of the house that has been commandeered for homebrewing).

If it were much bigger, or I were brewing every week it might be a lot of work but this doesn’t bother me. I’m know it isn’t necessary but I kind of like the break it down total cleaning thing.

Edit: I should add that right now I don’t cold crash or carbonate in the CF5, so once fermentation is over, I’m done with the CF5 for that batch.

 

[Jag75]

I tried pressurizing my conical. Got it up to 10 psi but it trickled down to 5.5 psi and had held . Think my leak is on the lid section but were not supposed to wrench it down too tight.

 

[Blazinlow86]

I tried pressurizing my conical. Got it up to 10 psi but it trickled down to 5.5 psi and had held . Think my leak is on the lid section but were not supposed to wrench it down too tight.

Did you have liquid in it when you tested it? If so how long did it take for the pressure to drop? Sane thing happened to me on my first test batch until I realized that the co2 was simply carbonating the test water. Tried it again empty and it held precisely for a week. Cheers

 

[Jag75]

Did you have liquid in it when you tested it? If so how long did it take for the pressure to drop? Sane thing happened to me on my first test batch until I realized that the co2 was simply carbonating the test water. Tried it again empty and it held precisely for a week. Cheers

I never even thought about that , however it happened almost instantly. Weird thing it's been holding at 5.5 for days now .

 

[Blazinlow86]

I never even thought about that , however it happened almost instantly. Weird thing it's been holding at 5.5 for days now .

If it happened that quick something leaking. Fwiw I do tighten the band pretty tight by hand. Maybe give it a few more turns and try again. Cheers

 

[mongoose33]

I never even thought about that , however it happened almost instantly. Weird thing it's been holding at 5.5 for days now .

You might try a little keg lube on the gasket as well as the lip on which it sits. I crank mine down to where there's about 3/8" between the ends of the band. Make sure your 4" TC hatch is tight, as well as everything else.

BTW, @Blazinlow86 is absolutely right about the liquid absorbing the CO2. Pressurize above liquid, and you'll carbonate that liquid.

 

[HB2 HughBHomeBrew]

If it happened that quick something leaking. Fwiw I do tighten the band pretty tight by hand. Maybe give it a few more turns and try again. Cheers

Have also found the lid takes pretty hard (by hand) tightening to hold pressure.

 

[Stand]

Also check the alignment between the lid and the top of the conical. I had a problem with mine holding pressure and it was because the top of the conical was slightly deformed. Probably from shipping.

 

[TNTgill]

Can anyone tell me how much above ambient temp the heater will get on the CF5? I was trying to ferment a hornidal kveik at 90 and mine wouldn't keep it above 75 degrees. Just tried on water alone and ambient is 70 degrees and after 6 hours it was only at 73 degrees. Just trying to figure out if my heater has crapped out.

 

[mongoose33]

Can anyone tell me how much above ambient temp the heater will get on the CF5? I was trying to ferment a hornidal kveik at 90 and mine wouldn't keep it above 75 degrees. Just tried on water alone and ambient is 70 degrees and after 6 hours it was only at 73 degrees. Just trying to figure out if my heater has crapped out.

Can't answer the question directly, but have you insulated the fermenter with anything? THere are all sorts of protuberances sticking out of the fermenter--sample valve, racking valve, dump valve, handles, thermowell, band clamp, top 4" TC port, legs, blowoff port--and they act as radiators.

I've used a moving blanket over mine, but a regular blanket...anything that will help keep those radiators from contacting ambient conditions directly.

 

[TNTgill]

It has the neoprene jacket on it but nothing else. I can cold crash down to 37 degrees with just ice water recirculation so I don't think the extras would keep it from getting warmer if the heater should be able to raise the temp. I can feel it getting a little warm where the wires go into it but the actual pad doesn't feel like it's warming up at all.

Can't answer the question directly, but have you insulated the fermenter with anything? THere are all sorts of protuberances sticking out of the fermenter--sample valve, racking valve, dump valve, handles, thermowell, band clamp, top 4" TC port, legs, blowoff port--and they act as radiators.

I've used a moving blanket over mine, but a regular blanket...anything that will help keep those radiators from contacting ambient conditions directly.

 

[mongoose33]

It has the neoprene jacket on it but nothing else. I can cold crash down to 37 degrees with just ice water recirculation so I don't think the extras would keep it from getting warmer if the heater should be able to raise the temp. I can feel it getting a little warm where the wires go into it but the actual pad doesn't feel like it's warming up at all.

Try a blanket over it, just for fun. If it doesn't work, then I'd agree the pad isn't doing much.

 

[jturman35]

I just did a Westy 12 Clone and got mine up to 81-83 degrees using a heating pad in my garage. Granted it is July in MS.

 

[TNTgill]

Tried the blanket on it CF5 to see if I could get it any warmer. 73 degrees when ambient is 70 degrees after 12 hours. The pad only seems to get warm at the location where it is plugged in. The pad itself doesn't change in temp. Anyone else get more warming from it?

 

[Darth_Duane]

I tried pressurizing my conical. Got it up to 10 psi but it trickled down to 5.5 psi and had held . Think my leak is on the lid section but were not supposed to wrench it down too tight.

I don't have my CF yet but someone on reddit mentioned that for him once the PRV hit it's release point it would drop all the way down to 5-6 PSI before resealing and holding pressure again. So you may have to find the point the PRV releases and shoot for just under it.

EDIT:

Here is a link to the comment on reddit.

https://www.reddit.com/r/Homebrewin...iew/etw5ufg?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web2x

 

[Stand]

Tried the blanket on it CF5 to see if I could get it any warmer. 73 degrees when ambient is 70 degrees after 12 hours. The pad only seems to get warm at the location where it is plugged in. The pad itself doesn't change in temp. Anyone else get more warming from it?

I don't have that heating pad, but that sounds wrong. You should contact Spike and ask them if that's how much it's supposed to heat. See what they say.

 

[Nate R]

It has the neoprene jacket on it but nothing else. I can cold crash down to 37 degrees with just ice water recirculation so I don't think the extras would keep it from getting warmer if the heater should be able to raise the temp. I can feel it getting a little warm where the wires go into it but the actual pad doesn't feel like it's warming up at all.

You got to 37 with just ice water??!! I tried but only got to 40, could only maintain about 42.
May i ask:
-What size cf? 5 or 10 gallon?
-what did you use to hold the water?
- how much water?
- how much ice and what size did u use?
-how often would u have to change the ice?

Thanks.
I used about 2gallons of water, frozen gallon water bottles, and about 5 pounds of large ice chunks. I would swap every 8 hours or so.

Also- for your heater- that does not sound right. Contact @SpikeBrewing for help. So far they have been awesome for me, and i hear good things about them.

Good luck & thank you!

 

[ZmannR2]

Got her in!!! So I have a great idea for transferring wort to the conical while aerating at the same time. What if we pump it in through the CIP ball!?!?!? It would splash it like crazy going in and aerate the piss outta it!! Anyone tried that??

 

[ZmannR2]

Also, while messing around with the racking arm, I discovered if you put some keg lub on only the one side of the washer that meets the conical and no where else, it makes rotating that arm much smoother

 

[mongoose33]

Tried the blanket on it CF5 to see if I could get it any warmer. 73 degrees when ambient is 70 degrees after 12 hours. The pad only seems to get warm at the location where it is plugged in. The pad itself doesn't change in temp. Anyone else get more warming from it?

Something's wrong with it. When you contact spike, now you can say you tried to limit the effects of ambient and it didn't work, and there's something wrong with the pad.

I'm fermenting a 5-gallon batch in a CF10 right now. I'm doing a ramp up of temps, from 50 to 54 to 58.... the pad has no issue with increasing temps. Now, that's a CF10, with a larger pad, but a smaller one would have worked as well, maybe a bit slower.

Contact them. They'll make it right.

 

[mongoose33]

Got her in!!! So I have a great idea for transferring wort to the conical while aerating at the same time. What if we pump it in through the CIP ball!?!?!? It would splash it like crazy going in and aerate the piss outta it!! Anyone tried that??

I've never tried that...I don't doubt it will work, though you will coat the inside of the fermenter with wort. Should make cleaning more fun. Especially round the rim.

To make the CIP ball work, you'll have to use a fairly high pressure from a pump. At one point I had the genius idea to connect my water faucet to the CIP ball to see if I could easily rinse it that way, while pumping out from the dump valve. Not enough pressure, or volume, or both. I never tried the garden hose directly, that might have worked.

 

[ZmannR2]

Should make cleaning more fun. Especially round the rim.

eesh I didn't think about the filth it would spray up on the lid....prolly not worth it then

 

[Jag75]

Not being biased but that thing is a beauty!

 

[ZmannR2]

To make the CIP ball work, you'll have to use a fairly high pressure from a pump. At one point I had the genius idea to connect my water faucet to the CIP ball to see if I could easily rinse it that way, while pumping out from the dump valve. Not enough pressure, or volume, or both. I never tried the garden hose directly, that might have worked.

Spikes CIP ball doesn't require much pressure they say......but I have the Blichmann riptide pump and that bastard flows like crazy!

 

[Tartan1]

Also, while messing around with the racking arm, I discovered if you put some keg lub on only the one side of the washer that meets the conical and no where else, it makes rotating that arm much smoother

A Teflon gasket also works well too.

 

[ZmannR2]

After installing my giant sight glass under my conical I'm a little conscerned that my racking arm wont reach far down enough to get every bit of beer off the yeast/trub cake at the bottom......especially after harvesting yeast. Has anyone had trouble racking off all their beer?

 

[Nate R]

Got her in!!! So I have a great idea for transferring wort to the conical while aerating at the same time. What if we pump it in through the CIP ball!?!?!? It would splash it like crazy going in and aerate the piss outta it!! Anyone tried that??


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My 0.02:
If you got the carb stone, hook it up to a $10 oxygen tank. If you did not get it, i say get a stone and hook it to 4' of tubing, and hook that to the oxygen tank. Probanly about $40 for the stone and regulator. Best money i spent for better yeast health.
More beer sells a stainless wand kit for like $50.
You made the jump to conical, so you committed to spending even more money on your hobby!! Lol

Also- whats up with the blue dr pepper cans?? New flavor or just a promo deal?

 

[ZmannR2]

Star-San, making sure it coats everything including the sight glass, button it up, re-attached the now-clean and rinsed sampling and racking valves, and I'm ready for the next time.

Are you closing it up completely or leaving some ports open to air dry it out while stored?

 

[ZmannR2]

My 0.02:

Also- whats up with the blue dr pepper cans?? New flavor or just a promo deal?

Dark berry flavor for the new Spider-Man movie....I'm not a soda drinker but I saw that and couldn't pass it up lol! Not bad! Just super super sweet, wish it was in 8 oz cans

 

[ZmannR2]

My 0.02:
hook it up to a $10 oxygen tank.

Where are these said tanks? Sorry, I have zero experience with O2

Edit: nvm Home Depot has em...

 

[mongoose33]

Are you closing it up completely or leaving some ports open to air dry it out while stored?

I just button it up. I'll open the dump valve on the bottom and put one of the plastic TC protectors over it.

 

[ZmannR2]

OK....got me an aeration system......just the typical stone with a hose and a tank....

Here's my NEW thoughts on method.....why not aerate in the boil kettle after chilling then transfer directly into the blowoff port on the Conical to keep you from having to use the top 4" port?

 

[Jag75]

I have been getting my wort to about 90 with my CFC on my Gf. The water is very warm here in the summer. I pump into my cf5 then hook up to my diy glycol chiller. Takes about 10 minutes then I just stir really good and pitch.

 

[CodeSection]

OK....got me an aeration system......just the typical stone with a hose and a tank....

Here's my NEW thoughts on method.....why not aerate in the boil kettle after chilling then transfer directly into the blowoff port on the Conical to keep you from having to use the top 4" port?

FWIW, I transfer the wort from the BK to my CF10 via the 1.5" valve/port. I want to keep the 4" port covered until I insert the cooling coil to avoid nasties that are floating in the air. I use saran wrap that has been sprayed with StarSan to cover the 4" port.

Spike suggests the most sanitary way to transfer is through the 2" port.

https://spikebrewing.freshdesk.com/support/solutions/articles/35000068424-filling-your-conical