Quick wiring question simple E-Kettle

[mr_rogers]

So i'm pulling together the pieces to convert my kettle into an E- kettle Via Kal's technique.

I've decided to go with this deep single gang box so that I can have a power switch as an additional safety measure.


I'm not the most electrically inclined so I want to run it by you guys.

Iv'e got the hot white cable that will be attached to the back of the element. And the black attached to one end of the switch.

I'll have another length of Black going from the element to the other bolt on the switch. Everything right so far?

Now for the ground there is a big ground bolt on the gang box and one on the switch. Can I just take the single ground wire and put it to either? I don't need to have a wire going to the element to the ground too right?

 

[milldoggy]

First, is that switch water proof and rated for 240 and 30 amps? I would not put a switch on my kettle.

On to your question. Ground both, box and switch, same wire. Probably ground your kettle if the box is not touching metal to metal.

 

[TreeBeard]

Another thing to keep in mind is that a SPST (Single Pole Single Throw) switch only disconnects one leg of the 240 volt. To use a switch as a means of disconnect you would need a DPST (Double Pole Single Throw), which would disconnect both legs. And as milldoggy stated above, it needs to be water proof and rated for 30 amps at 240 volts. Most setups I've seen use a plug and receptacle as the primary means of disconnect. As far as grounding goes, every metal object that could come in contact with electricity needs to be grounded; electrical boxes, kettles, etc.

 

[mr_rogers]

First, is that switch water proof and rated for 240 and 30 amps? I would not put a switch on my kettle.

OK so it sounds like a switch is a bad idea. I just wanted some way of cutting power besides pulling the cable from the wall with that much power running through it.

But yes there is a metal to metal contact with ground wire, box, element, and kettle.

I think I've got my questions answered! Thanks.

 

[milldoggy]

OK so it sounds like a switch is a bad idea. I just wanted some way of cutting power besides pulling the cable from the wall with that much power running through it.

But yes there is a metal to metal contact with ground wire, box, element, and kettle.

I think I've got my questions answered! Thanks.

You should really look at some kind of control panel. 4000 watts at 1000% is prob to much heat.

 

[noremorse1]

You should really look at some kind of control panel. 4000 watts at 1000% is prob to much heat.

For a cheap control with a twist style heat control knob, you can do this:
Purchase a two pole, illuminated, 30 amp, on off switch ~$6
Purchase a 40 amp, solid state relay with heat sink ~$18
Purchase this PWM board. Replace C1 with a 2.2uF capacitor. $9.00
Find an old, 12v DC charger from a cellphone, router, etc
Purchase some wire and connectors. $15-$20
Purchase power connectors to plug into your outlet and to plug your element into. $15-20
Purchase a small box to mount it in.

Make sure you use liquid tight connectors for your cabling going into the box. Make sure you properly ground it. You add some additional safety measures in this, e-stop, replace the on off switch with a push button switch and a contacts, etc. However, this will get you up and running.


I also recommend something like this: http://www.brewhardware.com/rimsherms-parts-93/176-elementparts

For less than $100 you have yourself a controller with a dial and on/off switch.

NOTE: YOU MUST HAVE TWO POLE, GFI BREAKER. IF NOT, YOU COULD DIE IF SOMETHING GOES WRONG. HAVE AN ELECTRICIAN INSPECT EVERYTHING BEFORE POWERING IT ON.

 

[mr_rogers]

I think that control panel will be a build for christmas or something, That's a pretty excellent build. For now i'll just go with the simple Ekettle with unplug controlled On/Off.

That element enclosure is basically what i've already got only triclover. Don't know if i'm ready for the Triclover investment since it's so expensive for all of the hardware.