Perlick 525SS compared to new 630SS

[sennister]

I just got three 630SS from Perlick to replace my 525SS faucets that I have had lots of leaking issues with. I held out until the redesign was out because I didn't want the 408 rear sealing faucet that they were offering before.

I see someone else posted a thread with info on the 630 but this is more of a comparison with lots of side by side shots.

In all the shots the 525SS and related parts are on the left and the 630SS on the right.

Link to album of all the images below. link. I just added titles and notes to all the photos on the album as well.

You can see the angle change of the spout. Also note that in this photo both faucet levers are in the full open position. The swing of the faucet it noticeably shorter in the new 630SS. It is a little easier to see in the second shot.

The top cap (bonnet) is changed quite a bit. The new one is much larger.

They eliminated the top O-ring and there is now a seal in the bonnet.

The bearing cup was stainless or at least metal. The new one is plastic. I will add that I would always fight trying to get the metal one in on the 525. The new 630's plastic one is much easier to install.

Here you see the handle lever. The 525 is completely round on the threads. You can see on the 630 where it is flat metal. The balls look about identical though.

This is the forward seal on the 630. I can confirm that it is not a standard O-ring. It is flat on both sides of the face. Size is about the same as the 525 but it is not round like the one the 525 used. I think this was part of my issue with the 525. It didn't seem to float around nearly as well as it does on the 630 with the flat seal. Removal and installation is the same between the two.

Here is the new logo on the 630SS. It is stamped in rather than a laser etch that the 525 had.

630SS

525SS

Here is a side by side comparison of the spout. The walls are much thinner on the 630 (Right) than the 525 (Left). I think the hole is slightly smaller on the 630 but pretty close.

Final shot is of the seal in the top of the faucet. There really is only the forward seal. The one in this shot and the one in the bonnet. Oh and I guess the one where the faucet mates with the shank.

Next step is to get these cleaned up so I can pull my remaining 525SS faucets and get the 630SS mounted.

Well the next step is done. I just poured my first pint from one of the 630SS faucets. While the throw of the faucet is shorter, I don't know how noticeable it was in pouring. As I suspected, it is a little harder to just crack it open to add a bit more head. While I didn't need to do this with this beer, I actually poured it, let it sit for about 10 minutes while I ran around getting the memory card for my DSLR back in the camera and got it out to take a shot. This gave the head a chance to drop down so I could try and just crack it. Still possible to do, just not as easy as with the 525SS. I will probably get used to it.

Once the pour was done it was one drip, wait for 5 seconds or so then one more. That was it.

 

[thadius856]

Never had any of my 10 leak. Must have gotten lucky.

Definitely not enough changes for me to swap them all out.

Great post. Thanks!

 

[day_trippr]

So the 630 actually has the same number of O-rings as the 525, but now all three - including the two surrounding the pivot ball - have seats. Seems like a good idea if only to make it harder to lose an O-ring.

A bit interesting that Perlick went full circle with the bearing cup and went back to plastic. My 525s are of the original design with plastic cup and larger #3 O-ring at the spout; at some point they switched to a metal cup and smaller #3 O-ring. I have a lingering suspicion one or both changes inspired all the problems with the later-vintage 525s.

The "short front ledge" is evident from the side-on views of the two Perls. The new spout starts quick and has a steeper pitch. I'm going to guess that will result in a two-drip closure on the 630, as opposed to the three-drip of the 525, both for "normal" FG brews (my big ass stouts that finish around 1.020 only manage two drips).

That new front O-ring profile is intriguing - and it looks totally custom. Given the closure mechanism looks completely the same, you have to wonder how they ended up with such a different profile for the O-ring...

Cheers!

[edit] I agree with Thadius - but I suspect we both got the "good" Perls, as mine have been perfectly behaved for years...

 

[Justdrumin]

A bit interesting that Perlick went full circle with the bearing cup and went back to plastic. My 525s are of the original design with plastic cup and larger #3 O-ring at the spout; at some point they switched to a metal cup and smaller #3 O-ring. I have a lingering suspicion one or both changes inspired all the problems with the later-vintage 525s.

I spoke with Todd the owner of Keg Connection and he said the original 525ss originally came with a plastic bearing cup, but switched to stainless shortly after the launch. He has a sneaky suspicion the 630ss will do the same thing shortly. He also said the 630ss was mainly aimed towards commercial bars where the faucets undergo abuse and have large tap handles.

 

[day_trippr]

Well, I'm sure Perlick designs all their faucets for the trade. We home-users are likely just noise on their sales charts.

Thinking more about the 630 changes, the seats for the two O-rings that capture the pivot ball are a good move, as the top O-ring on the 525 could bulge out if it wasn't square when the bonnet was run down. Same might have been true of the lower O-ring, though there'd be no way to know. Now they should stay put and allow easier adjustment.

Still think the real curiosity is the front O-ring...

Cheers!

 

[sennister]

So the 630 actually has the same number of O-rings as the 525, but now all three - including the two surrounding the pivot ball - have seats. Seems like a good idea if only to make it harder to lose an O-ring.

A bit interesting that Perlick went full circle with the bearing cup and went back to plastic. My 525s are of the original design with plastic cup and larger #3 O-ring at the spout; at some point they switched to a metal cup and smaller #3 O-ring. I have a lingering suspicion one or both changes inspired all the problems with the later-vintage 525s.

The "short front ledge" is evident from the side-on views of the two Perls. The new spout starts quick and has a steeper pitch. I'm going to guess that will result in a two-drip closure on the 630, as opposed to the three-drip of the 525, both for "normal" FG brews (my big ass stouts that finish around 1.020 only manage two drips).

That new front O-ring profile is intriguing - and it looks totally custom. Given the closure mechanism looks completely the same, you have to wonder how they ended up with such a different profile for the O-ring...

Cheers!

[edit] I agree with Thadius - but I suspect we both got the "good" Perls, as mine have been perfectly behaved for years...

Yeah, I guess you are right. Same number of seals (O-rings) but there are less loose parts.

I did also find it interesting about the flat forward seal. I didn't expect seeing that when I took it apart. My initial thought was wondering if they tried this approach on the 525 retrofit kit or a seal replacement that some people were getting from Perlick. I could pull it apart again and try and see but I wonder if the way that the 525 is machined that they were not able to use the flat forward seal with that application. If it is resting up against a round profile it might make it too hard to get a seal if you had a flat O-ring. They could have an O-ring that is flat on one side but not the other. But then you could have installation issues and it might be hard to make them that way. I think this is partly where the issues were.

 

[day_trippr]

When I was messing around with the new #3 O-ring - which is smaller in diameter and thickness of what I removed from one of my 525s - one thing I noticed was there really wasn't any "float" with the original, thicker O-ring, and perhaps the new O-ring was re-sized to provide some actual freedom of movement. By going with a flattened O-ring maybe they're trying to solve the same need.

Or it has nothing to do with that, and instead it has something to do with the sealing interface. Assuming the material is still 70 Duro Buna-N, reducing the area that makes contact with the faucet lever reduces the force needed to get the interface to conform to the closure ball, which would allow the faucet to still seal tight even when run at a lower pressure.

Or I could be wrong on both counts

Cheers!

 

[sennister]

When I was messing around with the new #3 O-ring - which is smaller in diameter and thickness of what I removed from one of my 525s - one thing I noticed was there really wasn't any "float" with the original, thicker O-ring, and perhaps the new O-ring was re-sized to provide some actual freedom of movement. By going with a flattened O-ring maybe they're trying to solve the same need.

Or it has nothing to do with that, and instead it has something to do with the sealing interface. Assuming the material is still 70 Duro Buna-N, reducing the area that makes contact with the faucet lever reduces the force needed to get the interface to conform to the closure ball, which would allow the faucet to still seal tight even when run at a lower pressure.

Or I could be wrong on both counts

Cheers!

I agree, the forward seals on all 3 of my 525SS don't seem to float. Some mentioned that their leaks were because of the o-ring up by the bonnet but in my case I really think it was the forward seal O-ring. Though putting keg lube seemed to do the most to help my leaking issues.

 

[sennister]

I spoke with Todd the owner of Keg Connection and he said the original 525ss originally came with a plastic bearing cup, but switched to stainless shortly after the launch. He has a sneaky suspicion the 630ss will do the same thing shortly. He also said the 630ss was mainly aimed towards commercial bars where the faucets undergo abuse and have large tap handles.

I have quite a few big commercial tap handles but I stopped using them on my 525SS because I felt that they were causing some of my leaks. I have a Beverage-Air keggerator with their optional 3 tap tower. The way it is designed it has a slight forward lean to it so the handles were not straight up and down. Things were better with shorter handles but I still got leaks. I know there are handle adapters that I could pick up to get more lean on the handles. I have been debating on picking up some to try. I will see how the current system works on the 630 first as I think that the 525ss were really the issue at this point.

 

[DrunkleJon]

I notice you have the faucet condoms on two of your faucets. With the taper I can see in the pictures of the spout, do you find that they no longer fit (like the growler fillers) or is it really a non issue?

 

[scootermsp]

I've had great luck with my 545PC faucets. The flow control lever is almost a must because you can fill Growlers without a filling tube or get a decent pour from a keg you just tapped. They prevent more wasted beer than you can believe. I like the look of the new 630s though. I found new O-rings from a guy on eBay in New York for short money. I haven't needed them but have them in hand should the need arise. I also have 2 backup Micromatic basic faucets that I used to use before my upgrade. Below is a picture that compares a standard faucet with the 545PC. I'd never go back to regular faucets. Perlick has a superior product.

 

[sennister]

I notice you have the faucet condoms on two of your faucets. With the taper I can see in the pictures of the spout, do you find that they no longer fit (like the growler fillers) or is it really a non issue?

I was worried about that when I had them side-by-side and noticed the spout difference. In that last photo where I poured my first beer if you look close you will see that I had swapped out all the 525SS faucets for the new 630SS at that point. So the two that had the faucet condoms on them were 630SS faucets. They stay on just fine. The difference is that with the old 525 the cap was in full contact with the sides of the spout. Now with the taper, only the top half of the cap is contacting the spout.

I should add that I originally added these in an attempt to stop the leaks on my 525SS faucets. When they were leaking though, they would just blast off the covers no matter how hard I stuck them on there.

Also the tapered design of the spout may mean that a hose of the proper ID may slip over the outside of the faucet just fine for a growler filler. I can get a caliper and measure it to see if I have a hose around that may fit. I think this is the approach I will use for a filler as Perlick doesn't make one at this point that I know of and they have said the one from the 525 doesn't work. I didn't have the one for the 525 so it was a non-issue to me.

 

[sennister]

I've had great luck with my 545PC faucets. The flow control lever is almost a must because you can fill Growlers without a filling tube or get a decent pour from a keg you just tapped. They prevent more wasted beer than you can believe. I like the look of the new 630s though. I found new O-rings from a guy on eBay in New York for short money. I haven't needed them but have them in hand should the need arise. I also have 2 backup Micromatic basic faucets that I used to use before my upgrade. Below is a picture that compares a standard faucet with the 545PC. I'd never go back to regular faucets. Perlick has a superior product.

If filling a growler I just open the keggerator, turn off the gas for the keg being drawn from and vent some pressure as I use ball locks. In my case this is easier than for most. If you look at the last pic in the first post here you can see my Beverage-Air keggerator. It is the club model that has a sliding top as well as a front main door. So when filling, I just slide the top open and I have the gas distribution block mounted to the side wall right there. I can reach the tops of all the kegs, cut the pressure, bleed off and start filling. If it slows too much I just quickly crack open and then close the gas valve on the block and the flow bumps up. Once done, close the faucet and open the gas valve again to re-pressurize. I know with some of the converted fridges and freezers it probably isn't as easy of a process.

 

[txjoe]

Great tip on the growler filling. I'm going to try that next time. Hadn't thought of that.

Thanks.

 

[sennister]

Great tip on the growler filling. I'm going to try that next time. Hadn't thought of that.

Thanks.

In either case you are reducing the flow rate to a trickle. I angle the bottle or growler so that it gently runs down the side of the container. It does a pretty good job of retaining carbonation. You will get some foam which I run until the beer level is at least up the neck a bit. When I do this, 99% of the time it is for same day consumption. Never have tried to do an extended storage like this. I do use starsan on the bottle to make sure it is clean and bug free.

Like I said depending on your configuration it may or may not be easily done. I could see where if one had a Kreezer, depending on how you did the hinge and such it may be near impossible to pull off.

 

[StainlessBrewing]

Keep us updated. I was thinking about bringing some of these in but am hearing word that the plastic is breaking with the current design.

 

[day_trippr]

Keep us updated. I was thinking about bringing some of these in but am hearing word that the plastic is breaking with the current design.

Oh, wow. Already?

Cheers!

 

[sennister]

A quick review after 24 hrs.

Maybe these new faucets need to get broken in a bit. Where it was the norm for the 525 to open/close with ease, these are a lot stiffer. I am going to try and back off the bonnet the next time I do a pour. See if that makes it a little loose.

I noticed this when I opened them. They were really stiff. After actuating them a couple times they were better. That is easy to do when they are not connected to a keg.

 

[JonnyJumpUp]

I have a 525ss and 630ss. My opinion is that the 525ss was a much smoother working faucet. The operation of the 630 feels cheap in comparison. It looks like they cheaped out by using some plastic parts and wimping out on the threads for the handle. If you twist you tap handles on too hard to the 630 the plastic also makes it possible to twist the insides around. Overall not very happy with the 630, never had a problem with my 525 in the 3 years I've had it. Also I ordered a 525ss and this 630 showed up instead. Guess I ordered right aroudn the change over and didn't realize it had happened.

 

[insanim8er]

Can you tell me what the finish is like on the inside? Is it polished, shiny and smooth, or does it have that look of casted stainless—dull with kind of a texture.

I'm dealing with the Ventmatic recall. I got some for Christmas and haven't been able to use them. They just shipped the v3 replacements, but I heard they did nothing other than change the seals. I was hoping they would fix their quality control over the finish. I was less than impressed with the finish and the overall feel of operation. It felt loose and cheap.

Is it common for these expensive faucets to not be polished inside? I might end up returning these for the new 630ss.

Also, is it common for the bonnet cap to be CP Brass on a SS faucet?

 

[Stealthcruiser]

I too, would like to see one that is polished on the inside..........That would be a feat!

Polishing the curved passages would be MAJORLY labor intensive, and with using a "vibratory" polisher, it would be tough to get an "aggressive" enough media to do the internal passages, that would not mess up your "foundation" base for polishing, on the outside.

I guess it could happen, but then I would sure like to see it!

 

[day_trippr]

Someone who has bought a 630 SS will have to tell us if "The micro-finished interior produces a smooth flow with less foaming ensuring a perfect pour every time." is for real...

Cheers!

 

[403Brewer]

This is slightly off topic but I'm planning on getting a new kegerator set up and want to know if its worth the extra $50-60 to upgrade to 630s over just a standard chrome tap? What are the major differences? Sorry if this is explained in another thread...I couldn't find one

 

[DrunkleJon]

This is slightly off topic but I'm planning on getting a new kegerator set up and want to know if its worth the extra $50-60 to upgrade to 630s over just a standard chrome tap? What are the major differences? Sorry if this is explained in another thread...I couldn't find one

The chrome plating wears off over time. Stainless is purdy. Stainless is the best. You know you want stainless.

 

[sennister]

Can you tell me what the finish is like on the inside? Is it polished, shiny and smooth, or does it have that look of casted stainless—dull with kind of a texture.

I'm dealing with the Ventmatic recall. I got some for Christmas and haven't been able to use them. They just shipped the v3 replacements, but I heard they did nothing other than change the seals. I was hoping they would fix their quality control over the finish. I was less than impressed with the finish and the overall feel of operation. It felt loose and cheap.

Is it common for these expensive faucets to not be polished inside? I might end up returning these for the new 630ss.

Also, is it common for the bonnet cap to be CP Brass on a SS faucet?

Next time I pull one for cleaning I will see what I can get a pic of or at least try and compare the in terms of internal polish.

From an external quick look I don't see much difference between the 630 and 525.

 

[sennister]

Someone who has bought a 630 SS will have to tell us if "The micro-finished interior produces a smooth flow with less foaming ensuring a perfect pour every time." is for real...

Cheers!

In using both, I would say I don't notice a difference in terms of foam.

 

[sennister]

This is slightly off topic but I'm planning on getting a new kegerator set up and want to know if its worth the extra $50-60 to upgrade to 630s over just a standard chrome tap? What are the major differences? Sorry if this is explained in another thread...I couldn't find one

Well I went with stainless. I figured I plan on using these for a really long time. If they are all stainless, not like you have to worry about the finish wearing off.

 

[Hello]

I went with the 525SS because I don't like how the new ones seem to include more plastic. I do know the 525SS may leak but kegconnection.com is happy to replace. Even kegconnection isn't carrying the 630s until Perlick replaces the plastic bits. I figure they know better than I do.

 

[day_trippr]

I wouldn't be quick to hate on plastic. My first-gen 525SS have plastic bearing cups - and they pre-date all the reported leak problems, which best as I can tell were on later models with metal bearing cups (and a change to the #3 O-ring).

I switched one of my faucets to the newer style #3 O-ring over a month ago without any problems...which leaves that SS bearing cup...

Cheers!

 

[sennister]

I wouldn't be quick to hate on plastic. My first-gen 525SS have plastic bearing cups - and they pre-date all the reported leak problems, which best as I can tell were on later models with metal bearing cups (and a change to the #3 O-ring).

I switched one of my faucets to the newer style #3 O-ring over a month ago without any problems...which leaves that SS bearing cup...

Cheers!

I figure that if the 630 doesn't leak and has a plastic part I can live with it. I have read where the 525 started plastic and was later switched to metal. They will likely do the same to the 630 later down the road if it turns out to be an issue. If I break the plastic part and a metal replacement is available then I order 3 of them and retrofit all of them.

I am not all that worried about it at this point. The difference between the two is that the part in question on the 525 was "C" shaped where on the new 620 is "O". The "O" shape will be stronger than a "C" so that might be enough to mean that it will hold up.

I have done searches on plastic breaking on the 630 and other than what is mentioned here I can't find any reports of this on the internet anyhow. Doesn't mean it doesn't or can't happen, just doesn't appear to be a widespread issue at the moment. At least not that I can find. My 3 630s seem to be holding up just fine. They also seem to have loosened up a bit. They were really stiff at first compared to the 525 faucets that I had issues with. Though maybe I am just stronger now from pulling them open all the time...

 

[Veedo]

looks like a cross between the 545 and 525. for someone that isn't hell bent on stainless, the 545 faucets have been awesome for a me also.

 

[dbhammel]

So does someone who upgraded to 630s want to sell me 1-2 525s?

 

[HumulusHead]

I have a 525 and a 630.

They are both set up on kegs pressurized same psi.

The 525 has 4 ft of line and pours at the perfect rate.

The 630 now has 10 ft of line and pours wayyyy to quick.

Anyone else notice something like this??

Anyone want to swap a 525 for my 630

 

[day_trippr]

That's unpossible.

Swap the beer lines at the kegs...

Cheers!

 

[HumulusHead]

Tried that. The other beer flies out way too fast out of the 630.

It bothers me very much. I lose like all carbonation it comes out so fast


Sent from myPhone

 

[day_trippr]

It's a mystery.

The innards of the 630 and 525 are so alike it seems unlikely there'd be a measurable difference in resistance...

Cheers!

 

[HumulusHead]

Damn. But good. Because at least I've narrowed it down to the shanks/nipples.

Sorry for the hijack. But thanks!!


Sent from myPhone

 

[insanim8er]

Damn. But good. Because at least I've narrowed it down to the shanks/nipples.

Sorry for the hijack. But thanks!!


Sent from myPhone

and you're sure your regulator/pressure is accurate? Seems odd... But 4ft of line with a "perfect pour" also seems odd if you're running any kind of pressure on the keg. I'd expect it to foam, so maybe your 525 is the odd man out?

I only have 630ss faucets. I run 12ft of bev-seal line on mine. It's actually kind of a slow pour, but it works great. So I have no complaints what-so-ever.

What kind of pressure do you have it set to? And is it really coming out fast, or is it just foaming bad?

 

[HumulusHead]

and you're sure your regulator/pressure is accurate? Seems odd... But 4ft of line with a "perfect pour" also seems odd if you're running any kind of pressure on the keg. I'd expect it to foam, so maybe your 525 is the odd man out?

I only have 630ss faucets. I run 12ft of bev-seal line on mine. It's actually kind of a slow pour, but it works great. So I have no complaints what-so-ever.

What kind of pressure do you have it set to? And is it really coming out fast, or is it just foaming bad?

Well the 525 actually has a slower pour then say a bar would, but I really like it and want to duplicate it.

My 630 with 10 ft of line is set to the same psi, it doesn't have foaming issues. It just comes out super fast. It comes out so fast that it seems to knock the co2 out of solution leaving no head whatsoever. It has a bubbly feeling on the tongue still, just doesn't get head like when I switch it to the 525.

I'm starting to think I have a larger diameter tailpiece on the 630 shank. But that would only make sense if the shank has a larger diameter too, but I can't find the diameter of shank holes on any website. So I assume they are all the same and can me made smaller with different tailpieces.

I will check on that when I get home but sadly that's not til Saturday.

I have a feeling it's gonna take quite the experimenting to figure out what's wrong. It's sad.

Edit: I have set both regulators to 10 psi at around 38 degrees

 

[lordtakuban]

Sorry for the thread revival, but my Perlick 525's just simply do not seal that well and this thread kinda has me leaning toward the 630SS as a possible solution to the issue. The comparison pics by the OP were great and so were many of the commentary posts.

Has anyone been able to confirm that the flat forward washers were indeed to help sealing?