PERLICK 630SS with Duotight connection

[Gunshowgreg]

hey guys long time no see. I been out the game for a while and I finally made the leap to kegging. I got a hang up on a second hand keezer i bought and need some advice.

The lines need replacing and what I thought was gonna be an easy task to just change out the vinyl tubing I see there are lots of options now and I have decided since its getting replaced i go with the Eva route.

I have been researching this for hours now and my eyeballs are bleeding. I have a PERLICK 630SS type faucet already installed and I see that the barbed end is not duotight friendly from what i have researched. am i SOL or can i cut that thing off with my grinder and attach this fitting to it?

Thanks in advance.

​

 

[day_trippr]

Been there When I converted everything to EVABarrier tubing I lopped the barbs off my shanks. Lots of ways to do that, I used a Dremel with a fiber cutoff disc and used the same disc to buff the surface so the PTC fitting would seal (there's a rubber gasket inside).

Cheers!

 

[Gunshowgreg]

thanks i didnt consider that part of it. im glad someone else paved the way for me.

 

[beren]

If you don’t want permanent changes you can get the line over top the barbs

 

[Gunshowgreg]

If you don’t want permanent changes you can get the line over top the barbs

will that fit with the 4mm inner diameter eva tubes

 

[beren]

will that fit with the 4mm inner diameter eva tubes

hot water will help it, likely 140-160. Boiling will deform it.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

hot water will help it, likely 140-160. Boiling will deform it.

regular hose clamp to secure it or should i try a different one? i heard of a certain clamp but i don't recall the nomenclature. i appreciate it.

 

[day_trippr]

I've done it as well - on a dual primary reg that has barbed shut-offs, so it was force the EVA over them or replace the shut-off valves with 1/4" MFL style...

I encouraged the stretching with a cheap Harbor Freight swaging tool and hot water...

I put heat shrink tubing over the end before adding a worm clamp...

Cheers!

 

[Gunshowgreg]

thanks @day_trippr the pictorials are super helpful

Is the heat shrink required?

 

[shoengine]

You can get duotites that fit over barbs, fyi.

 

[Yesfan]

I'll echo @day_trippr first post. I lobbed off the barbs on my stainless shanks and went with the Duotights he posted. If you have to buy the shanks, then get the ones @shoengine posted.

 

[day_trippr]

thanks @day_trippr the pictorials are super helpful

Is the heat shrink required?

Nah, I just didn't like the idea of the worm clamps digging into the outer layer, but it probably wouldn't have mattered...

Cheers!

 

[Gunshowgreg]

You can get duotites that fit over barbs, fyi.

View attachment 840210

This will work with barbed fittings? isnt this pictorial for the smooth type metal connection point?

 

[Broken Crow]

This will work with barbed fittings? isnt this pictorial for the smooth type metal connection point?

Sounds like you really want to keep your barbs... What size are they? @day_trippr 's swaging tool would be a big plus here. What size EVABarrier are you using? I recently swaged 3mm ID EVABarrier over 1/4" barbs..quite a strech but do-able (if it helps give you an idea: 1/4" Swivel-nut > 3mm EVABarrier > 6.35mm Monotight connector > Duotight Shank )
Here's what it looked like:

4mm ID EVABarrier would be easier.

 

[day_trippr]

That looks like a specialty shank like this one from Komos meant for Duotight interfacing...

Cheers!

 

[Broken Crow]

Oh! I forgot: Duotight tailpieces exist, but I haven't seen them on a US site; Stainless Steel Shank Push-In Tail Piece - 6.35mm (1/4'')

 

[shoengine]

That looks like a specialty shank like this one from Komos meant for Duotight interfacing...

View attachment 840218

Cheers!

Nope, regular ol' barb

The fitting just has to go past the barbed section.

 

[mac_1103]

4 mm EVA barrier on 1/4" barb with 10.5 mm oetiker clamp.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

Sounds like you really want to keep your barbs... What size are they? @day_trippr 's swaging tool would be a big plus here. What size EVABarrier are you using? I recently swaged 3mm ID EVABarrier over 1/4" barbs..quite a strech but do-able (if it helps give you an idea: 1/4" Swivel-nut > 3mm EVABarrier > 6.35mm Monotight connector > Duotight Shank )
Here's what it looked like:
View attachment 840217
4mm ID EVABarrier would be easier.

yep im using 4mm im gonna go this route for the time being. i guess i had reservations on something that i couldnt undo and now seeing other options lol

 

[beren]

thanks @day_trippr the pictorials are super helpful

Is the heat shrink required?

No. Hell on my tower I dipped the hose and barb in hot water, shoved it on and squeezed. never put a clamp on it and no leaks yet.

Oh also I always add a few-6” extra to my lines, with pushfit I like to trim after a few inserts, and I tend to use a fresh section to put on the barb.

 

[Gunshowgreg]

Thanks for everyone’s help. I got it connected and after using Soltys calculator I got 12 second pour. I’m good with that. He said 5.1 I went and did 5.5 thinking of needed I can cut shorter later. It was kinda pain in the ass stretching the hose over but it’s on there. I used one of the screws in the photo to step it up since I didn’t have that fancy tool. It carbed up I think it needs a little more time. 12 PSI.

Cheers
Thanks again

 

[beren]

I just swapped to a 3 tap tower what a pain in the ass. I couldn’t use my Duotight shanks because of clearence issues. Hell I couldn’t even use one of the non duotights I had, had to use a different one with a smaller 90. Just used some green wire to help make sure nothing slips off.

 

[Broken Crow]

I just swapped to a 3 tap tower what a pain in the ass. I couldn’t use my Duotight shanks because of clearence issues. Hell I couldn’t even use one of the non duotights I had, had to use a different one with a smaller 90. Just used some green wire to help make sure nothing slips off.

Is it a standard tower? When I swapped to a 3 tap tower on my first kegerator, I briefly thought I had a clearance problem but I guess I was just distracted... I had forgotten to put one of the outer collars on. (the curved one on the outside) Any chance that may have heppened to you?

 

[beren]

Is it a standard tower? When I swapped to a 3 tap tower on my first kegerator, I briefly thought I had a clearance problem but I guess I was just distracted... I had forgotten to put one of the outer collars on. (the curved one on the outside) Any chance that may have heppened to you?

No chance. I also am not using the shanks that came with it as they looked… questionable. Could be the welds weren’t cleaned up but I decided to skip them. It was very cheap on eBay I was just after the tower. I didn’t realize also that the center hole was raised compared to the other 2. It’s all together now however and looks purdy.

My dream tower would be a stainless pipe t tower with pipe for the top as well. Anyone know where I can get this about 90% off? https://www.beveragefactory.com/draftbeer/towers/metropolis/metro-t-4psskr.shtml

 

[Broken Crow]

Is this in the right ball park? https://www.aliexpress.com/item/100...QVtadlFr&utparam-url=scene:search|query_from:

 

[beren]

Is this in the right ball park?

No. Still $300 with shipping but a bit less yeah.