New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

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Here is one of my recent "experiments." Big Muddy Red. Going for a NE IPA version of an Amber Ale. Pretty pleased with it, but not sold on the hop combo of this one, and I would also like it to have a fuller/creamier body to it. But, overall, I think it is maybe 90% of the way there.

I basically used a 1.060 grain bill of NE IPA.
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
20% Wheat/Flaked Grain Combo
NO Caramel Malts at all
I added 1 cup of D-180 Belgian Syrup with 15 minutes to go in the boil (6.5 gallons of Wort)

Hopped it with
1:1:1 Cascade:Centennial:Amarillo in 2 whirlpool additions
1.5:1.5 Cascade:Amarillo in 2 dry hops.

1056 yeast I think.... or 1272?

I have a second batch carbing now. A bit less D-180 (what I had left) and I only used Centennial/Cascade in the second batch. No Amarillo. Bittered with Warrior in both to that 40 IBU range or so.

Thinking of Maybe going the route of Nugget at 60 and 15 and then Cascade/Centennial/Nugget in whirlpool. Then a single dry hop of Cascade (with maybe a touch of nugget???) I am a big fan of Nugget Nectar.
Horizon would be another hop that might play very well in this beer instead of Nugget.

At any rate, fairly happy with it.

amber.jpg
 
Just a general process question for everyone: Are you letting your fermentation go until it is complete or are you stopping it once you reach a target FG?

My fermentations usually go until the FG hits about 1.010/11 which is a little thin for my liking. And it usually hits that FG by day 6 or 7 regardless of grain bill or yeast. My ferm temp schedule is usually something like starting at 63.5 and slowly ramping up to 70 over about 5 days. The only time I've been able to get 1.014 or higher is when I add maltodextrin and/or lactose.
 
hezagenius said:
Just a general process question for everyone: Are you letting your fermentation go until it is complete or are you stopping it once you reach a target FG?

My fermentations usually go until the FG hits about 1.010/11 which is a little thin for my liking. And it usually hits that FG by day 6 or 7 regardless of grain bill or yeast. My ferm temp schedule is usually something like starting at 63.5 and slowly ramping up to 70 over about 5 days. The only time I've been able to get 1.014 or higher is when I add maltodextrin and/or lactose.
Click to expand...

Mine generally finish out in the 1.010-12 range. They never finish at 1.014. I would say though, the perception does not come off as thin even at that FG. I don't really take any gravity readings along the way.... I just let the beer do what it does. I generally just always plan to keg somewhere around day 12-14 of all my beers (unless it is something big, or a lager or saison, etc.)
 
Braufessor said:
Here is one of my recent "experiments." Big Muddy Red. Going for a NE IPA version of an Amber Ale. Pretty pleased with it, but not sold on the hop combo of this one, and I would also like it to have a fuller/creamier body to it. But, overall, I think it is maybe 90% of the way there.

I basically used a 1.060 grain bill of NE IPA.
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
20% Wheat/Flaked Grain Combo
NO Caramel Malts at all
I added 1 cup of D-180 Belgian Syrup with 15 minutes to go in the boil (6.5 gallons of Wort)

Hopped it with
1:1:1 Cascade:Centennial:Amarillo in 2 whirlpool additions
1.5:1.5 Cascade:Amarillo in 2 dry hops.

1056 yeast I think.... or 1272?

I have a second batch carbing now. A bit less D-180 (what I had left) and I only used Centennial/Cascade in the second batch. No Amarillo. Bittered with Warrior in both to that 40 IBU range or so.

Thinking of Maybe going the route of Nugget at 60 and 15 and then Cascade/Centennial/Nugget in whirlpool. Then a single dry hop of Cascade (with maybe a touch of nugget???) I am a big fan of Nugget Nectar.
Horizon would be another hop that might play very well in this beer instead of Nugget.

At any rate, fairly happy with it.
Click to expand...

Awesome! Let us know when you have a perfected version. I never would have thought the D-180. Maybe some very dark crystal would work instead to get a similar character and not dry out the beer as much?

I love your bar, too. I never would have thought to use dark brown carpet for a bar! :)
 
hezagenius said:
Just a general process question for everyone: Are you letting your fermentation go until it is complete or are you stopping it once you reach a target FG?

My fermentations usually go until the FG hits about 1.010/11 which is a little thin for my liking. And it usually hits that FG by day 6 or 7 regardless of grain bill or yeast. My ferm temp schedule is usually something like starting at 63.5 and slowly ramping up to 70 over about 5 days. The only time I've been able to get 1.014 or higher is when I add maltodextrin and/or lactose.
Click to expand...

If you want a higher FG, just mash higher. Try mashing at 160 next time, and you will end at a higher FG unless you can't do a mash out/can't heat the wort quick enough to kill off the beta amylase after the sparge. I mash at 165F usually and then do a mashout, and I routinely end around 1.015-1.018 for an OG of 1.060, depending on the yeast. I like the lower alcohol level with the same body as any 1.060 beer.
 
Braufessor said:
Here is one of my recent "experiments." Big Muddy Red. Going for a NE IPA version of an Amber Ale. Pretty pleased with it, but not sold on the hop combo of this one, and I would also like it to have a fuller/creamier body to it. But, overall, I think it is maybe 90% of the way there.

I basically used a 1.060 grain bill of NE IPA.
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
20% Wheat/Flaked Grain Combo
NO Caramel Malts at all
I added 1 cup of D-180 Belgian Syrup with 15 minutes to go in the boil (6.5 gallons of Wort)

Hopped it with
1:1:1 Cascade:Centennial:Amarillo in 2 whirlpool additions
1.5:1.5 Cascade:Amarillo in 2 dry hops.

1056 yeast I think.... or 1272?

I have a second batch carbing now. A bit less D-180 (what I had left) and I only used Centennial/Cascade in the second batch. No Amarillo. Bittered with Warrior in both to that 40 IBU range or so.

Thinking of Maybe going the route of Nugget at 60 and 15 and then Cascade/Centennial/Nugget in whirlpool. Then a single dry hop of Cascade (with maybe a touch of nugget???) I am a big fan of Nugget Nectar.
Horizon would be another hop that might play very well in this beer instead of Nugget.

At any rate, fairly happy with it.
Click to expand...

Thanks for this update. I'm looking for hop combinations to try since acquiring 11 pounds of hops on Black Friday.

I ended up with the following:

Cascade
Centennial
Columbus
Summit
Warrior
Magnum
Citra (2#)
Mosaic
Amarillo
Galaxy
 
phyllobeddo said:
Thanks for this update. I'm looking for hop combinations to try since acquiring 11 pounds of hops on Black Friday.

I ended up with the following:

Cascade
Centennial
Columbus
Summit
Warrior
Magnum
Citra (2#)
Mosaic
Amarillo
Galaxy
Click to expand...

If you are doing a regular IPA..... The galaxy, Mosaic, Citra, Columbus, amarillo obviously work great.

For Ambers, I like Cascade and Centennial in there because they seem to have a bit of a "dry" bitterness that counters the sweetness of an amber ale. As much as I like Citra, Mosaic type hops in IPA's they can come off as "sweet" sometimes.... throw that in with an amber ale which is sweeter than an IPA and it can be a little much.

A little columbus (not a lot) is pretty good in an amber ale to in my experience.
 
Braufessor said:
Here is one of my recent "experiments." Big Muddy Red. Going for a NE IPA version of an Amber Ale. Pretty pleased with it, but not sold on the hop combo of this one, and I would also like it to have a fuller/creamier body to it. But, overall, I think it is maybe 90% of the way there.

I basically used a 1.060 grain bill of NE IPA.
40% 2 Row
40% Golden Promise
20% Wheat/Flaked Grain Combo
NO Caramel Malts at all
I added 1 cup of D-180 Belgian Syrup with 15 minutes to go in the boil (6.5 gallons of Wort)

Hopped it with
1:1:1 Cascade:Centennial:Amarillo in 2 whirlpool additions
1.5:1.5 Cascade:Amarillo in 2 dry hops.

1056 yeast I think.... or 1272?

I have a second batch carbing now. A bit less D-180 (what I had left) and I only used Centennial/Cascade in the second batch. No Amarillo. Bittered with Warrior in both to that 40 IBU range or so.

Thinking of Maybe going the route of Nugget at 60 and 15 and then Cascade/Centennial/Nugget in whirlpool. Then a single dry hop of Cascade (with maybe a touch of nugget???) I am a big fan of Nugget Nectar.
Horizon would be another hop that might play very well in this beer instead of Nugget.

At any rate, fairly happy with it.
Click to expand...

Looks tasty! If I am not mistaken, one of the major hops in nugget hector is actually palasade hops.

Also, have you ever used carafa special malt for color? I think its a "safe" way to get darker beers with out the flavor.
 
Untapped details for nugget nectar say Nugget, Warrior, and Tomahawk.

There's a local brewery by me that does an imperial red ale with just Simcoe and Amarillo and it is fantastic.
 
Tarpon87 said:
Untapped details for nugget nectar say Nugget, Warrior, and Tomahawk.

There's a local brewery by me that does an imperial red ale with just Simcoe and Amarillo and it is fantastic.
Click to expand...

Hop Head Red by Greenflash and Red Seal Ale by North Coast are two of my "benchmark" ambers along with Nugget Nectar.
 
So I brewed my first attempt at a NE IPA. The aroma and flavor are solid. I really enjoy drinking this beer. I wuold like to get the color closer to the yellow haze that some of the beers in this style have. Looking for suggestions. Here is the grain bill (5.5 gal), and a 4 week bottle conditioned pic.

8# Simpsons Golden Promise
3.5# German Pils
1# Flaked Wheat
0.5# Flaked Oats
0.5# Torrified Wheat

 
Scturo said:
So I brewed my first attempt at a NE IPA. The aroma and flavor are solid. I really enjoy drinking this beer. I wuold like to get the color closer to the yellow haze that some of the beers in this style have. Looking for suggestions. Here is the grain bill (5.5 gal), and a 4 week bottle conditioned pic.

8# Simpsons Golden Promise
3.5# German Pils
1# Flaked Wheat
0.5# Flaked Oats
0.5# Torrified Wheat

Click to expand...


get a kegging setup and your beer will improve a lot
 
Scturo said:
So I brewed my first attempt at a NE IPA. The aroma and flavor are solid. I really enjoy drinking this beer. I wuold like to get the color closer to the yellow haze that some of the beers in this style have. Looking for suggestions. Here is the grain bill (5.5 gal), and a 4 week bottle conditioned pic.

8# Simpsons Golden Promise
3.5# German Pils
1# Flaked Wheat
0.5# Flaked Oats
0.5# Torrified Wheat

Click to expand...

All those look like pretty light srm grains to me, pics usually make the beer look a little darker but your saying you want it lighter. Check out some of Braufessors pics back in this thread, sorry not sure where in this long thread they are, but he has multiple pics of the same beer and depending on the light the beer is anywhere from fluorescent yellow to orange. I guess the only question is how long are you boiling cuz as I'm sure you know the longer you boil the darker the beer will get. Plus and again I'm sure you know his the more haze you have in your beer it will also appear darker as no light is getting through. Just some thoughts but as for grain idk looks like you've got nothing above 3-4 srm in there.
 
Going to brew next week, tell me what you guys think! Drinking all these Monkish DIPAs inspired me to go big and hazy.

NE_ipa1.jpg


neipa2.jpg


(only doing a hopstand at 170 followed by a dry hop of the same hops at the same amount as the hopstand).

-Doing full volume, no sparge BIAB in my 16 gallon kettle, mashing @ 152.

-Bru'n gives me 5g gypsum and 8.6g CaCl to hit 100:200ppm sulfate to chloride based upon using 7.1gal of distilled for my mash.

-Going to use 1318 via 1.5L starter @ 1.040, and pitch at high krausen 12-18 hours later
 
TBillionaire said:
Going to brew next week, tell me what you guys think! Drinking all these Monkish DIPAs inspired me to go big and hazy.

NE_ipa1.jpg


neipa2.jpg


(only doing a hopstand at 170 followed by a dry hop of the same hops at the same amount as the hopstand).

Doing full volume, no sparge BIAB in my 16 gallon kettle-Bru'n gives me 5g gypsum and 8.6g CaCl to hit 100:200ppm sulfate to chloride based upon using 7.1gal of distilled for my mash.

Going to use 1318 via 1.5L starter @ 1.040, and pitch at high krausen 12-18 hours later
Click to expand...


You need a bigger dryhop
 
TBillionaire said:
even more than 6.5oz? (the scroller on beeralchemy cut off that I'm dry hopping with the same amounts of the hopstand hops)
Click to expand...

Idk 6.5 oz seems plenty. I'm brewing a slightly bigger dipa with also a 6 oz hopstand and 6oz dry hop and I think that should be fine. You get a lot of flavor from that hopstand then you'll think. I'd recommend hop standing starting at 175 and then just let it go for an hour, I cover my boil kettle with foil during he hopstand and after an hour my temps are usually around 150-155. I think you'll be def in the ball park for a 7.5%abv beer with the hop amounts you have.
 
TBillionaire said:
Going to brew next week, tell me what you guys think! Drinking all these Monkish DIPAs inspired me to go big and hazy.

NE_ipa1.jpg


neipa2.jpg


(only doing a hopstand at 170 followed by a dry hop of the same hops at the same amount as the hopstand).

-Doing full volume, no sparge BIAB in my 16 gallon kettle, mashing @ 152.

-Bru'n gives me 5g gypsum and 8.6g CaCl to hit 100:200ppm sulfate to chloride based upon using 7.1gal of distilled for my mash.

-Going to use 1318 via 1.5L starter @ 1.040, and pitch at high krausen 12-18 hours later
Click to expand...


TBillionaire,

Monkish!!! They are putting out some nice NEIPAs! I brewed up a DIPA based on the original recipe here (just increased the malt bill until I got to about 8% ABV). I actually thought what I brewed was as good as or better than some of the examples that Monkish releases. If I recall correctly, I went with 75:150 sulfate to chloride.

Good luck! I'll probably see you in a can release line.

Pliny
 
Scturo said:
So I brewed my first attempt at a NE IPA. The aroma and flavor are solid. I really enjoy drinking this beer. I wuold like to get the color closer to the yellow haze that some of the beers in this style have. Looking for suggestions. Here is the grain bill (5.5 gal), and a 4 week bottle conditioned pic.

8# Simpsons Golden Promise
3.5# German Pils
1# Flaked Wheat
0.5# Flaked Oats
0.5# Torrified Wheat

Click to expand...


All my bottled heavy hopped IPAs looked like that before I started kegging, they all came out muddy brownish color after a few weeks in the bottle. Pretty sure it's an oxidation issue
 
jakturner said:
All my bottled heavy hopped IPAs looked like that before I started kegging, they all came out muddy brownish color after a few weeks in the bottle. Pretty sure it's an oxidation issue
Click to expand...

yeah, i was going to say that it looks oxidized, but didn't want to make any assumptions. Can't tell without tasting it.
 
Scturo said:
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Looks like I have to make the move to kegs.
Click to expand...

You won't regret it. I'm new to this style but can tell after only a couple attempts that kegging makes a big difference as well as taking care not to oxidize when kegging.
 
jakturner said:
All my bottled heavy hopped IPAs looked like that before I started kegging, they all came out muddy brownish color after a few weeks in the bottle. Pretty sure it's an oxidation issue
Click to expand...

I hope that tastes better than it looks.
 
Scturo said:
Thanks everyone for the feedback. Looks like I have to make the move to kegs.
Click to expand...

When u do, go ahead set yourself up for closed transfers. I set mine up with stuff I already had around the house. Used a normal plastic racking cane through the airlock hole on a carboy cap and the co2 line connected to the blow off with a double sided barbed brass connector. Racked to a purged keg this beer will be tasting great and keep its color till it kicks. Around 1.5 months is the longest I've had one stick around
 
Giving this recipe a shot tonight in a 3 gallon batch:
84% Patagonia Pale
8% Flaked Oats
8% Flaked Wheat
Hopshot at 60 minutes for ~30 IBU
Ounce of Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret at 170 degree whirlpool for 40 minutes
Same amount for dry hop
Imperial Juice Yeast

6 ounces of hops in a 3 gallon batch enough for this style or should I up it?
 
Brewing tomorrow and have a dry hop question. Doing a 3 gallon batch but using a 5 gallon big bubbler. Should I just drop pellets straight in or put them in a bag? If in a bag should I add marbles to sink them or let them float?
 
optimal_pizza said:
Giving this recipe a shot tonight in a 3 gallon batch:
84% Patagonia Pale
8% Flaked Oats
8% Flaked Wheat
Hopshot at 60 minutes for ~30 IBU
Ounce of Mosaic, Citra and Vic Secret at 170 degree whirlpool for 40 minutes
Same amount for dry hop
Imperial Juice Yeast

6 ounces of hops in a 3 gallon batch enough for this style or should I up it?
Click to expand...

I would up it. For reference. I use a full pound of hops in my 5 gallon batches. 1oz bittering, 6 ounces whirlpool at 170 degrees and 9 ounces dry hop for 3-5 days.
 
Brewing tomorrow as well. Hop hands is the only NE style IPA I have brewed so looking forward to see how it turns out. Adding 1 lb of Oat Malt and reducing the Flaked Oats to 1/2 pound.
 
Damn, this Citra/Equinox version is really growing on me. As good as the original and all the other hop combos I've tried so far. For my next batch I'm going to do a bit of an experiment. I'll use Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy but ferment with sacch trois with no temperature control. I want to see if I can make a good beer while my fermentation chamber is full.

20170111_161700_zpsay3gtv9q.jpg
 

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