stjimmyjos
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- Aug 12, 2016
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My NEIPA with combo of Citra, Mosaic and Simcoe at 1318 yeast
interested in that. mosaic adds a dank character yo a citra-mosaic. always wanted to try all mosaic
Kegging mine now. Taste very good, citra/mosiac, added a touch of biscuit for flavor.
Did you attach a liquid keg post to your comical dip tube? Is that how you attach your jumper line?
I brewed my first attempt with OP's recipe from post 1418 with WLP007 and 140:70 sulfate:chloride.
I brewed a 2.5G stovetop BIAB for the first time today and my mash temp was bang on the whole time and I ended up with an OG of 1.058 (I normally do 5G outdoor burner brews).
I know that oxidation can often be an issue with highly hopped beers and I am worried ending up with an oxidized beer since I used a 6G fermenter for my this 2.5G brew (I regretted as soon as I saw the quantity of headspace )
I need your advice regarding the hop schedule to minimize contact with oxygen. I had initially planned to dry hop in two batch on day 3 and day 7 and then cold crash on day 10 for 24h before bottling. Should I do all dry hop in one batch before the fermentation ends (day 3 or 4) to minimize oxygen entrance in the carboy? I also know that cold crashing ends up sucking air but from my previous experiences there is no way I can bottle without cold crashing with that much dry hop.
Any advice will be highly appreciated!
Btw it tasted so good with all the FO and whirlpool hops that I ended up sucking the thin layer of wort on top of the trub to drink it.
I also know that cold crashing ends up sucking air but from my previous experiences there is no way I can bottle without cold crashing with that much dry hop.
:
Has anyone bittered one of these with chinook?
All my bottled heavy hopped IPAs looked like that before I started kegging, they all came out muddy brownish color after a few weeks in the bottle. Pretty sure it's an oxidation issue
my pliny clone last year did not change at all after bottling ever for a very slight reduction in hop aroma a few months down the road. fwiw, i'm not really careful at all about oxygen, and was racking all my beers to secondary for dry-hopping, etc...
I just tried the tying a hop bag on the end of the racking tube method of straining the hops, it worked out quite well. I much preferred it to pulling a bag of hops out of the neck of a carboy. My recipe isn't quite as hop heavy as this one, but you may want to give it a shot.
Just tried an NEIPA-ified version of the Sierra Nevada Celebration malt bill listed here:
https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showpost.php?p=5650896&postcount=1
I used the same malt bill but added 50 Rager IBUs of chinook at 60 min. and then 2 oz/gal of Denali dry hops in primary on about day 3. I used WY1318 for the first time in months and had about 100 ppm chloride and 13 ppm sulfate. The resulting beer is SUPER smooth, not bitter at all and has an aroma of very fresh tropical fruits, like papaya. The flavor is very round, smooth and malty with an intense pineapple finish. It's quite nice, very different.
This Denali description indicates pineapple, so I guess it makes sense:
https://www.morebeer.com/products/denali-experimental-06277-pellet-hops.html
Preferred yeast for NE style: London III, Conan, or WLP008?
Hey Braufessor, I know you use ss brew buckets to ferment. What's your transfer process for this beer? If already posted what post # is it? Thank you.
Hey @Braufessor
Do you have any reasoning for letting the ferm temp rise freely over the first few days from 62 to 66-68? I do something similar and I like my results but I was asked why not just keep the ferm temp constant during this period. I didn't have a good answer so I was wondering if you had some reasoning for it.
Well.... I have done a variety of things.
For transfer I took the "guts" out of the liquid-in post and out of the liquid disconnect. Had a length of tubing with the liquid disconnect on one end (minus the guts) and nothing on other end. Free end of tubing onto fermenter spigot.
Sampled my last two batches. Both were basically the updated recipe in #1418. I was playing around with some "LoDO" techniques. First.... I was not able to apply all the LoDO techniques, so I am not saying that is something to do or not do.... I did not carbonate naturally in the keg. However, I did use the mashing techniques, low boil, Metabidulfite, etc. I also, did all dry hopping in primary with no dry hop keg. Figured, less transferring was better as far as oxygen.
If you force carbed the beer you would have un-done any good you had done with a LoDO mash and introduced so much O2 that hop oxidation is well on its way. The published process explicitly states this isn't acceptable. LoDO and forced carbonation are not at all compatible unless you're using lab grade CO2, which is prohibitively expensive and not generally available to home brewers.
Did you achieve the odorless mash from the LoDO batch? Did you taste the wort?
.... Yes, I know this - that is why I explicitly stated (twice) that I did NOT follow all of the procedures for this beer, and I was NOT judging the success of the procedures, because I did not follow them to the level recommended. I did notice taste/perception contribution from the Meta though.... neither a pro nor a con in my opinion.
Coming out of the fermenter, however, there was zero difference (that I could perceive) in the two beers beyond the "dryness" perception of the LoDO beer. These beers have a ton of hops in them though.... so I think that probably masks the perception of a lot of other things in either beer. .
Not really looking for another LoDO argument here so i'll say my piece and this is it.
These types of posts are very misleading, disclaimer or not. You mentioned all the LoDO things you did, but then also say you didn't do at least one of the key steps. Then you state observations about the differences (or lack therefore).
If you don't
1. pre-boil mash water AND
2. use SMB in the mash AND
3. tighten-up O2 ingress AND
4. boil lightly AND
5. carbonate naturally in your serving vessel
Then you will see little to no difference. It's a weak link process. If you don't do all the steps it's not LoDO. Simple as that.
Glad to hear your Helles is turning out well though.
Not really looking for another LoDO argument here so i'll say my piece and this is it.
These types of posts are very misleading, disclaimer or not. You mentioned all the LoDO things you did, but then also say you didn't do at least one of the key steps. Then you state observations about the differences (or lack therefore).
If you don't
1. pre-boil mash water AND
2. use SMB in the mash AND
3. tighten-up O2 ingress AND
4. boil lightly AND
5. carbonate naturally in your serving vessel
Then you will see little to no difference. It's a weak link process. If you don't do all the steps it's not LoDO. Simple as that.
Glad to hear your Helles is turning out well though.
@Braufessor if you don't make a post praising LoDo and the resultant beer you get replies saying you're doing it wrong. It happens across multiple threads, don't sweat it. I thought your disclaimer wasn't misleading at all.
I wouldn't mind giving LoDo a shot, just haven't figured out the best way to implement it using my Grainfather.
Honestly not sure why this is such a divisive issue. We're all just trying to make better beer...
To be fair it's not just me - many others call it out too. LoDO has nothing to do with praise. If you do LoDO, follow all the steps, get the intended results, and don't prefer the beer, then i'm fine with that. We all have our own preferences.
But there is a long history of people who say they did LoDO, admit to skipping key steps for a variety of reasons, don't notice a difference, and then conclude its heresy. This post read just like those.
*However, last couple batches I did I deviated from this and it seemed to work very well. I did both dry hops in primary. Moved fermenter to counter a couple days before transfer. Filled keg with star san, pushed out with CO2. Left lid on. For transfer I took the "guts" out of the liquid-in post and out of the liquid disconnect. Had a length of tubing with the liquid disconnect on one end (minus the guts) and nothing on other end. Free end of tubing onto fermenter spigot. Hook to liquid post. Open keg vent and then transfer beer via gravity into keg. After transfer, quickly remove post, put guts back in, put on keg, purge head space with CO2.
**This second method seemed to work very well, and I may continue with it if it works out well and I can eliminate the step of a dry hop keg.
Has anyone bittered one of these with chinook?
It is divisive because people do not want to believe that they have been making beer the "wrong" way. They do not want to find out that they need to spend money on equipment and spend additional time/effort to brew it the "correct" way. That is pretty much it.
meh, people have been making beer for 1000's of years without worrying about that stuff. I understand that guys can't have barbie, so they buy gear for their hobbies, and that's cool.
I will be interested at some point in tasting the latest religious trends, but it's clear one can make perfectly good beer pretty easily using the tried and true methods.
but back to northeast ipa, i'm starting to pop open some bottles that are 2 weeks old, and while the beer definitely is a little less cloudy (more like a traditional dry hop haze) I don't notice any significant difference in flavor. In fact it tastes darn good. Personally, I think the orange-juice appearance of some commercial examples is off-putting, so i'm not at all sad about losing it but still having the beer be fruity, hop-forward and delicious.
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