New England IPA "Northeast" style IPA

[BrewinSoldier]

If you haven't made a NEIPA yet, ratios are the last things you should worry about honestly.

What things are you referring to?

-I have my brewing setup pretty locked down, and am able to keep mash temps within 1°F of setpoint
-I always make starters and use calculators so I'm pitching the right amount of yeast
-I have a lab grade pH meter so that I can keep all my pH dialed in.
-I have a glycol chiller setup on my Conicals so that I can keep temps within .5°F, do co2 pressurized transfers, and purge with co2 after each dry hop addition
-I keg so no worries with bottle conditioning
-I keep my sanitation game on point

Anything else I'm missing? I've made plenty of great beers and IPAs, just never a NE IPA which are definitely my new favorite beer.

 

[stickyfinger]

What things are you referring to?

-I have my brewing setup pretty locked down, and am able to keep mash temps within 1°F of setpoint
-I always make starters and use calculators so I'm pitching the right amount of yeast
-I have a lab grade pH meter so that I can keep all my pH dialed in.
-I have a glycol chiller setup on my Conicals so that I can keep temps within .5°F, do co2 pressurized transfers, and purge with co2 after each dry hop addition
-I keg so no worries with bottle conditioning
-I keep my sanitation game on point

Anything else I'm missing? I've made plenty of great beers and IPAs, just never a NE IPA which are definitely my new favorite beer.

Sounds like you'll make an awesome NEIPA! Go for it! I'd take Brau's advice on the starting water profile. Personally, I like to either boost by chloride and sulfate to around 100 ppm or just boost the chloride to 100 ppm and leave the sulfate at whatever it is from the tap (mine is around 15 ppm depending on the season.) You'll figure out what you like the more you brew the style. The sulfate gives a much more drying character that can be very pleasant but can make smaller alcohol versions taste thinner.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Sounds like you'll make an awesome NEIPA! Go for it! I'd take Brau's advice on the starting water profile. Personally, I like to either boost by chloride and sulfate to around 100 ppm or just boost the chloride to 100 ppm and leave the sulfate at whatever it is from the tap (mine is around 15 ppm depending on the season.) You'll figure out what you like the more you brew the style. The sulfate gives a much more drying character that can be very pleasant but can make smaller alcohol versions taste thinner.

Thanks I sure hope so. Right now I'm using my grainfather but hope to move my main 3V setup over to the new house soon. I start all my beers with 100% RO water and build them up. I've been messing around getting my water from different places to see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).

One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like. It wasn't the whole beer overall, it was one thing I tasted that I have tasted in 1 or two other brands before that I just don't like, and I feel like it has to do with something in the water like either too much sulfate or chloride maybe(but I have no idea of what too much of those taste like in a beer).

I've read about people adding salts to a beer to see how more chloride would make it taste or how more sulfate would make it taste, but I have no idea how to break it down that small to know how much to add. I thought about pouring an IPA that I like I to two glasses, and just adding a few granules at a time to boost the chloride in one and the sulfate in the other to see what it does to the taste and see if I can pick it out.

 

[stickyfinger]

see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).
...
One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like.
...
I've read about people adding salts to a beer to see how more chloride would make it taste or how more sulfate would make it taste, but I have no idea how to break it down that small to know how much to add. I thought about

I would bet that your RO quest is not going to be fruitful, but what do i know.

I wonder if your Trillium was super yeasty and fresh? That can sometimes come off as astringent due to yeast bite or hop particles in the beer that can be tannic. You might find that your own NE IPA has this character at first but that it mellows nicely with time. It depends on the yeast and hops used in my experience. To me, more sulfate in a beer adds to that character as well, but it can be pleasant, as I said. Maybe try for lower sulfate on your first go round?

I've never tried spiking my beer with sulfate or chloride. Sounds interesting. I'd try to make a solution of each salt first though and spike via volume of the solution to ensure that it is mixed well and dissolved.

 

[phyllobeddo]

I brewed my first batch of 2017 today! I brewed 34 batches last year and my other NE IPA was the best of the year. I'm hoping this one is even better than the last. I used more adjuncts this time than last. Hopefully the Pilsner malt will turn out good.

2.5 gallon batch

2 lb Maris Otter 2 row
2 lb Floor Malted Bohemian Pilsner
8 oz Flaked Oats
4 oz Flaked Barley
4 oz Weyermann Wheat (white)
2 oz Flaked Wheat
2 oz Gambrinus Honey Malt
2 oz Acid Malt

2 g Magnum 60 min

14 g Citra - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)
4 g Columbus - Flameout (steeped for 60 minutes)

14 g Citra - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
14 g Mosaic - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)
4 g Columbus - @ 173 degrees (steeped for 35 minutes)

Dry Hop:

Day 3
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 9
21 g Citra
14 g Mosaic
4 g Columbus

Day 12 - cold crash
Day 14 - keg

Yeast - Wyeast 1318. Pitched a 1L starter @ 63 degrees that had spun for 19 hours.
Mashed @ 153 for 1 hour 45 minutes.
OG was 1.061. Mash efficiency 82.9% per Beersmith.
Krausen was forming and there was pressure on the air lock a couple of hours after pitching.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

Sorry Brau one other question, when you refer to weyermann wheat in your recipe, are you referring to weyermann white wheat?

There are so many different ones they make so I want to be sure to grab the right one.

 

[Braufessor]

Sorry Brau one other question, when you refer to weyermann wheat in your recipe, are you referring to weyermann white wheat?

There are so many different ones they make so I want to be sure to grab the right one.

Yeah - regular weyerman wheat.

To be honest though..... I can't claim that absolute precision is necessary.

Pretty sure that the following will get you a great beer -
80% Base Malt..... 2 Row, GP, MO, Pils.... whatever combo or single malt.
18% Flaked grains/wheat.... again.... probably any combo of these.... don't worry if you don't have each one, just make up for it with another one you have on hand.
2% Honey malt.... I do like the honey malt addition for a bit of color, a bit of malt sweetness, but without using much caramel malt.

Beyond that.... I don't know that anything in particular is going to make or break the beer.

 

[Braufessor]

I've been messing around getting my water from different places to see if the RO water source makes any kind of impact(because without sending them off to ward labs who really knows how well they are working).

One thing I haven't got good at yet is being able to pick out tastes in the beer. That's why I wish I knew what it was in the cans of Trillium that I tasted and didn't like. It wasn't the whole beer overall, it was one thing I tasted that I have tasted in 1 or two other brands before that I just don't like, and I feel like it has to do with something in the water like either too much sulfate or chloride maybe(but I have no idea of what too much of those taste like in a beer).

Ha..... I actually HAVE sent water in from my local walmart to Ward Labs - three times over the course of a few years! I just don't trust "the man." All 3 times though, it came back close to zero's just as RO water should. So, I consider it good at this point.

Also, you can get a a TDS meter - they are relatively cheap and accurate and will tell you if it is truly RO water or not. Ultimately, all RO water is the same if it is truly being RO filtered.

Trillium beer can be hit and miss. Most I have had have been good to great. The few I have had that were bad were definitely because they were excessively yeasty and it gave the beer a real harsh bite to it. Plus, I think their beer has a pretty firm yeast character/tartness to it. Trillium does not really come off as a sulfate or chloride heavy beer in my opinion.

 

[Supertrapped]

When bottling, what is recommended amount of priming sugar used for 5 gallons for this style of beer?

 

[nnfdcane]

Came across this thread while looking for a NE style recipe. Haven't gotten all the way through it yet but lots of good info!

First off, I'm fairly new to brewing. I've done a few 1 gallon BIAB brews but it's been a little while, looking to get back into it with 2.5 gallon batches.

I found a recipe for a Congress St clone but this one looks better. I want to use you grain recipe with Columbus and Galaxy hops. Can someone let me know if I'm close with these numbers?

2.5 gallon BIAB

Water: RO plus the gypsum and CaCl that is in OP

2-Row 2lbs
Maris Otter 2lbs
Flaked oats .25lbs
Flaked barley .25lbs
Wheat ????
Honey malt ????

Columbus .5oz @ 60 mins
Columbus .75 @ flameout
Galaxy 3oz Columbus.75oz dry hop

Mash @ 150-153 1 hour
Yeast: WLP-007 (supposedly what Trillium uses)

 

[MerlinWerks]

Ha..... I actually HAVE sent water in from my local walmart to Ward Labs - three times over the course of a few years! I just don't trust "the man." All 3 times though, it came back close to zero's just as RO water should. So, I consider it good at this point.

Also, you can get a a TDS meter - they are relatively cheap and accurate and will tell you if it is truly RO water or not. Ultimately, all RO water is the same if it is truly being RO filtered.

I primarily get RO from Whole Foods, mostly because they have a two spout machine and I'm typically getting ten gallons, I also use another local grocery store. I always check any RO water I get with a TDS meter and it has always been in single digits. In the beginning I did send a sample of the Whole Foods water off to Ward Labs and it tested as it should.

Yep, the TDS meter can provide some peace of mind for not much money...

 

[motosapiens]

When bottling, what is recommended amount of priming sugar used for 5 gallons for this style of beer?

i don't really fret too much about it. I put 1 cup of corn sugar in hefeweizens, and 3/4 cup in everything else. One of the highly regarded pro recipes says 2.6 volumes of co2, which this calculator says would be .62 cups at 60 degrees.

I'm not sufficiently finely tuned that I can tell the diff between 2.6 volumes and 2.8 volumes, so I just use a binary carbonation method of 'average', or 'a bit more than average'.

 

[BrewinSoldier]

So to make sure it's good RO water, I just use my TDS meter and it should read 0 or close to? At what numbers should I be concerned?

As far as RO water goes I have gotten it from quite a few Ro machines and there has only been one place so far that has actually blown my mind. I know everybody says water is water when it comes to RO but this place bragged a lot about their water. They said to just taste it and I could taste the difference which was crazy because I actually could and the mouthfeel of plain water from their system was completely different than any other RO water that I've had. They said they had some crazy military RO machine. I'm gonna get a sample later on and send it off to ward labs just to see why there water tastes and feels so different. Because of that I didn't want to use it if I can only get that water at that one place. I'd rather get water that I can get the same at any other place to make my beers consistent. However, if the mouthfeel of the water alone carry's over to this specific kind of IPA that we are after, I might give it a try with the same recipe to see if it makes a difference.

Brau,
Once I get your recipe made I will can you up a few and send them your way. I'm curious how much difference there is compared to yours with your way of doing it in the kegs vs mine doing everything in the same conical from start to finish with pure CO2 transfers and purging the whole time. Just to see if you taste a big difference between the way I do it and you do it. If yours does taste better I will definitely change my methods to the way you are doing it because I am always looking to progress in the Brewing methods that make our beer better. Cheers!

 

[Braufessor]

So to make sure it's good RO water, I just use my TDS meter and it should read 0 or close to? At what numbers should I be concerned?

As far as RO water goes I have gotten it from quite a few Ro machines and there has only been one place so far that has actually blown my mind. I know everybody says water is water when it comes to RO but this place bragged a lot about their water. They said to just taste it and I could taste the difference which was crazy because I actually could and the mouthfeel of plain water from their system was completely different than any other RO water that I've had. They said they had some crazy military RO machine. I'm gonna get a sample later on and send it off to ward labs just to see why there water tastes and feels so different. Because of that I didn't want to use it if I can only get that water at that one place. I'd rather get water that I can get the same at any other place to make my beers consistent. However, if the mouthfeel of the water alone carry's over to this specific kind of IPA that we are after, I might give it a try with the same recipe to see if it makes a difference.

Brau,
Once I get your recipe made I will can you up a few and send them your way. I'm curious how much difference there is compared to yours with your way of doing it in the kegs vs mine doing everything in the same conical from start to finish with pure CO2 transfers and purging the whole time. Just to see if you taste a big difference between the way I do it and you do it. If yours does taste better I will definitely change my methods to the way you are doing it because I am always looking to progress in the Brewing methods that make our beer better. Cheers!

Want to say it is something like a reading of 25 or lower and it is good. It won't be 0 as there are still some minerals in RO water.... just not much though.

Be interesting to send that sample in (or test with RO meter). You might actually find that it is not RO water. Might actually have mineral levels in it that make it taste/perceive better.

Definitely be interested in sampling... I always like to compare and sample what others are doing too. It is a great way to compare ideas and processes. Gladly send some back your way as well, just let me know.

 

[schematix]

I know everybody says water is water when it comes to RO but this place bragged a lot about their water. They said to just taste it and I could taste the difference which was crazy because I actually could and the mouthfeel of plain water from their system was completely different than any other RO water that I've had. They said they had some crazy military RO machine. I'm gonna get a sample later on and send it off to ward labs just to see why there water tastes and feels so different.

Really low PPM RO water tastes like crap. If it tastes good with good mouthful i'd suspect their ppm is on the higher end of the spectrum.

When i drink my RO water (8-9 ppm) at home i use ice cubes made from my tap water (110 ppm) to add some minerals back. Makes a phenomenal cup of ice water.

 

[MerlinWerks]

Yep, RO coffee = no bueno

 

[joehoppy]

Sulfate, not hardness.

No, 750 is a total hardness number. Not sulfate alone. You do not want your sulfate at 750.

 

[RevKev]

No, 750 is a total hardness number. Not sulfate alone. You do not want your sulfate at 750.

Unless you're trying to clone Miralax.

 

[Gentlemans_Ale]

Unless you're trying to clone Miralax.

[emoji23]

 

[christyle]

So brewed a double of this yesterday to split with a buddy. We were debating and researching water profiles to add in to my RO machine water, because the original recipe has a lot of different ways to go. We spent so much time talking about it we forgot to add any of it to the mash...:smack: I realized it 50 mins into the mash, added in the .9 Gypsum/.4 CaCl per gallon, stirred, vorlaufed some to try to distribute it, and got temp back to 154 before letting it sit another 20 minutes or so to hopefully finish converting. Hopefully it works out... I added acid malt to the grain bill as well so i was concerned it would be too acidic but pH was right around 5.3-5.4 so I guess it worked out?

Damn this thing uses a lot of hops....I don't brew IPAs often so it was a bit of a shock addding like a half gallon of hops after flameout. Transferred that hop sludge to the fermenters with 1318 and let her go. Hopefully it works out!

 

[hezagenius]

Brewed a version of the Swish clone here on HBT.
9.75# GP
1.25# 2-Row
1.25# Flaked Wheat
0.75# Dextrose
0.5# Maltodextrin (original recipe didn't call for this but I get decent attenuation)

OG 1.069

Tried FWH for the first time.

0.5oz Apollo FWH
1.0oz Mosaic at flame out
4.0oz Citra at 180F for 60 min whirlpool
4.0oz Mosaic at 180F for 60 min whirlpool
1.0oz Simcoe at 180F for 60 min whirlpool

The krausen 24 hours in is pretty green from all the hops that made it into the fermenter.

I think I've got about 12oz of hops planned for the dry hop phase.

 

[Braufessor]

So brewed a double of this yesterday to split with a buddy. We were debating and researching water profiles to add in to my RO machine water, because the original recipe has a lot of different ways to go. We spent so much time talking about it we forgot to add any of it to the mash...:smack: I realized it 50 mins into the mash, added in the .9 Gypsum/.4 CaCl per gallon, stirred, vorlaufed some to try to distribute it, and got temp back to 154 before letting it sit another 20 minutes or so to hopefully finish converting. Hopefully it works out... I added acid malt to the grain bill as well so i was concerned it would be too acidic but pH was right around 5.3-5.4 so I guess it worked out?

Damn this thing uses a lot of hops....I don't brew IPAs often so it was a bit of a shock addding like a half gallon of hops after flameout. Transferred that hop sludge to the fermenters with 1318 and let her go. Hopefully it works out!

Should be fine.... I actually did the same thing yesterday. Brewing a double batch. Took care of the water additions on the first batch - just some CaCl and some lactic acid (pilsners). I start my second mash while my first beer is boiling.... forgot to add anything to the water because I was busy doing other things. About 15 minutes left to go in the boil of the second beer I realized I had forgotten to add CaCl or lactic to the mash/sparge water. So, I just put the 3.5 ml of lactic acid and 4grams of CaCl into the boil to bring pH and minerals in line with the original plan. It will work out in the end.

 

[abbysdad2006]

Brewed a version of the Swish clone here on HBT.
9.75# GP
1.25# 2-Row
1.25# Flaked Wheat
0.75# Dextrose
0.5# Maltodextrin (original recipe didn't call for this but I get decent attenuation)

OG 1.069

Tried FWH for the first time.

0.5oz Apollo FWH
1.0oz Mosaic at flame out
4.0oz Citra at 180F for 60 min whirlpool
4.0oz Mosaic at 180F for 60 min whirlpool
1.0oz Simcoe at 180F for 60 min whirlpool

The krausen 24 hours in is pretty green from all the hops that made it into the fermenter.

I think I've got about 12oz of hops planned for the dry hop phase.

Love to hear how this comes out!!

 

[christyle]

Good to hear, I thought they were vitally important to the mash conversion or something.... Water chemistry is still new to me.

For reference, which of the profiles is your favorite, because I saw roughly 2:1, 1:1 and 1:2 for Gypsum:CaCl, but it looked like the first was your preferred?

 

[motosapiens]

For reference, which of the profiles is your favorite, because I saw roughly 2:1, 1:1 and 1:2 for Gypsum:CaCl, but it looked like the first was your preferred?

the ratio only really matters if you have significant amounts, so it makes more sense to me speak in ratios of 150/50, or 30/180, referring to the actual sulfate and choloride amounts.

I have one of each bottle conditioning right now. taste-testing at bottling showed them both to be delicious, but I bottled them on different days so it's hard to say just how different they are.

 

[hezagenius]

Love to hear how this comes out!!

A friend of mine brewed it and said it was great and that he got a lot of compliments from those that have tried the real thing. I'll post my dry hop additions once I figure out the amounts I'm using. I upped the Citra and Mosaic and dialed down the Simcoe just a little. Sometimes I pick up weird flavors from Simcoe. I think I scaled it back to about 3oz total. Enough to get some flavor and aroma without it being too overpowering.

 

[abbysdad2006]

A friend of mine brewed it and said it was great and that he got a lot of compliments from those that have tried the real thing. I'll post my dry hop additions once I figure out the amounts I'm using. I upped the Citra and Mosaic and dialed down the Simcoe just a little. Sometimes I pick up weird flavors from Simcoe. I think I scaled it back to about 3oz total. Enough to get some flavor and aroma without it being too overpowering.

Awesome!! Glad to hear it!

 

[HObrew]

So I initially posted here wanting to do an extract version, came to the conclusion that it would be a partial mash, now I am waiting on a water cooler from amazon to do an all grain.

I really want it to be right at first try!

I have a corny keg hop basket on the way. Do you think I can transfer into a purged keg at day 12 and then pull the hops basket out and carbonate in the same keg day 14-15? I don't know if there will be a layer of yeast in the bottom of the keg since it was used as a secondary and my other keg might be used up when it comes time to transfer.

Is there a reason we dry hop in a keg as a secondary? Will dry hopping and leaving it in primary achieve the same results?

 

[grassfeeder]

Is there a reason we dry hop in a keg as a secondary? Will dry hopping and leaving it in primary achieve the same results?

There is ZERO reason to keg hop these beers. Dryhop once in the primary and then transfer to a purged keg. You want as few moving parts as possible with these. Secondary is not needed.

 

[hedge_87]

Just kegged 10 gallons of this. Being my first ever dry hopping experience I only dry hopped one fermenter to see if I could tell the difference. It is amazing how much hop aroma the dry hopping added. great recipe!

 

[motosapiens]

Is there a reason we dry hop in a keg as a secondary? Will dry hopping and leaving it in primary achieve the same results?

most of the recipes i have seen have 2 rounds of dry hops, one during the last stages of primary fermentation (2 days after pitching yeast, for me), and another more traditional post-fermentation dryhop 4 days or so later.

I personally racked to secondary for the second dryhop. I don't know if there's any particular need to get the beer off of the first round of hops or if it will be fine to just do both in primary, so the first one is in there for 8 days and second one for 4 days. Worth an experiment.

 

[Braufessor]

Is there a reason we dry hop in a keg as a secondary? Will dry hopping and leaving it in primary achieve the same results?

There is ZERO reason to keg hop these beers. Dryhop once in the primary and then transfer to a purged keg. You want as few moving parts as possible with these. Secondary is not needed.

I have primarily done it... well.... because that is the way I started doing it. That said, I currently have two batches of this going and I intend to do all the hoping in primary and then go directly into serving keg.

I currently have a Cascade pale ale that I put all the hops in primary.... 2 ounces for dry hop 1 on day 3 or 4 and 3 ounces for dry hop 2 on day 9 or 10. That turned out very nice.

So..... bottom line - no, it does not "have to" be done with a dry hop keg. Everyone's set up is different, and everyone eventually needs to tweak what I put out in my recipe and process to suit their situation and their taste preference.

 

[HObrew]

Ok! I'll keep it in mind if I don't have a free keg to hop in.

 

[stickyfinger]

Ok! I'll keep it in mind if I don't have a free keg to hop in.

the amount of dry hops and minimizing O2 exposure are way more important than anything a complicated dry hop regimen offers.

 

[anteater8]

Drinking my 5th batch of this beer, using Citra:Equinox 1:1 this time.

Really enjoyable. On the aroma I'm getting a lot of mango, some pineapple and some lime. Equinox definitely brings more of a citrus punch to the table, I'm getting a lot of orange, lemon and lime in the taste with a bit of papaya and that "fleshy" tropical fruit type of flavor.

To recap some older posts quick, here are the hop combo's I've tried so far ranked:
1) Citra/Mosaic/Galaxy (1:1:1)
2) Citra/Mosaic/Simcoe/Columbus (2:2:1:1)
3) Citra
4) Citra/Equinox (1:1)
5) Nelson

 

[stjimmyjos]

I have primarily done it... well.... because that is the way I started doing it. That said, I currently have two batches of this going and I intend to do all the hoping in primary and then go directly into serving keg.

I currently have a Cascade pale ale that I put all the hops in primary.... 2 ounces for dry hop 1 on day 3 or 4 and 3 ounces for dry hop 2 on day 9 or 10. That turned out very nice.

So..... bottom line - no, it does not "have to" be done with a dry hop keg. Everyone's set up is different, and everyone eventually needs to tweak what I put out in my recipe and process to suit their situation and their taste preference.

I have actually around 5.5 gallons of 3 day of primary - i added to whirlpool around 1,76 oz each of Enigma and Euruka and 0,88oz of Equinox. Now i'm planning to add to dry hop ~5 oz of enigma, 1,76 of Euruka and 0,88 Equinox (i have also 1,76 oz of Citra - add it too?) My question is how to add it and when? Everything now to primary, without transfering to secondary or split it to 2 dry hopping - ie. add some hops on primary and transfer with rest of hops to secondary? I have no option to purge with co2

 

[Braufessor]

I have actually around 5.5 gallons of 3 day of primary - i added to whirlpool around 1,76 oz each of Enigma and Euruka and 0,88oz of Equinox. Now i'm planning to add to dry hop ~5 oz of enigma, 1,76 of Euruka and 0,88 Equinox (i have also 1,76 oz of Citra - add it too?) My question is how to add it and when? Everything now to primary, without transfering to secondary or split it to 2 dry hopping - ie. add some hops on primary and transfer with rest of hops to secondary? I have no option to purge with co2

If you can't purge with CO2, I would add it all to primary..

 

[stjimmyjos]

If you can't purge with CO2, I would add it all to primary..

split it to half or just add everything in one dry hopping?

 

[Braufessor]

Either one.... Could add it all at once at day 3-4-5 range or you could add half at day 3-4-5 range and the other half 2-3-4 days before you plan to bottle/keg.

 

[crusader1612]

If you can't purge with CO2, I would add it all to primary..

^^This ^^
Add it around 4-5 days before packaging - and cold crash 36-48 hour before packaging. all in primary. thisshould get you where you need to be.

and yes add the citra, the more dryhops the better.